The end tables I made for SWMBO are Maple stained with H2O-based stain
and covered with Varnish.

I applied the Varnish thinned 2:1 with Mineral Spirits by wiping with
a rag. I waited 24 hours between coats. Between the 3rd & 4th and
5th & 6th coats I scraped away any nastiness. Between the 6th & 7th
and 7th & 8th coats I rubbed it with #00 to smooth everything up.

So now I have 8 coats all applied with at least 24 hours in between.
I wait 48 hours then glue the apron and legs together. I thought the
clamps ruined the finish on the legs but it was just some dust from
the rubber pads that came off with a rough rubbing of a dry rag. Next
day I screw the tops on with some Norm style blocks set in a dado on
the aprons. Tada!

Swmbo is happy they are done (me too). I take them upstairs and she
positions them and carefully places the lamps on the tables with
doilies (sp?) underneath. (72 hours drying time for the tops -
applied in the heated basement).

Yesterday I get curious and lift the lamps and see marks where the
lamps made impressions of the doily fabric on the tables. I mumble
and mutter to myself.

After the in-laws visit on the 25th I will buff the marks out and
apply another coat which will probably fix the marks. But...

How long does this stuff take to cure?

"RayV" wrote in message
...
Snip


How long does this stuff take to cure?

Temperature, humidity, and number of coats will all factor in on total cure
time. Time will tell.

RayV wrote:
The end tables I made for SWMBO are Maple stained with H2O-based stain
and covered with Varnish.

snip

How long does this stuff take to cure?

It depends on the specific details, but it's not uncommon for varnish to
take a couple weeks to fully cure. You might want to contact the
manufacturer and ask them...

Chris

Ray,

THE critical question . . . what KIND of Varnish?

If it was a 'long oil' Varnish - SPAR Varnish - the answer is 'Never'. That
stuff is supposed to be 'soft' and flexible.

If something is going to be in contact with the surface {shod feet, hands,
your butt, or a table lamp} you need a 'short oil' varnish.

For interior items, where 'contact use' is expected, I avoid the problem
entirely by applying my usual 6 coats using a water-based poly. If the
'traditional Amber' tone is desired, I'll do it with a prior light staining,
or add drops of dye to the poly until I reach the tone I want.

I do use 'short oil' varnish for interior work - where UV exposure
protection is required.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"RayV" wrote ..
The end tables I made for SWMBO are Maple stained with H2O-based stain
and covered with Varnish.

I applied the Varnish thinned 2:1 with Mineral Spirits by wiping with
a rag.
SNIP
So now I have 8 coats all applied with at least 24 hours in between.
SNIP
How long does this stuff take to cure?

"RayV" wrote in message
...

How long does this stuff take to cure?



Not knowing what "stuff" you used, I can't make an honest judgement.
Environmental conditions play a huge role in how quickly finish cures as
well. It may sound a little funny, but I smell the finish. When I can't
smell it any longer, it's cured. Not scientific but it seems to have
worked for me.
Cheers,
cc

In article , "Cubby" wrote:
"RayV" wrote in message
...

How long does this stuff take to cure?

Not knowing what "stuff" you used, I can't make an honest judgement.
Environmental conditions play a huge role in how quickly finish cures as
well. It may sound a little funny, but I smell the finish. When I can't
smell it any longer, it's cured. Not scientific but it seems to have
worked for me.

I agree, the smell test is the best way, with most finishes.

I recently refinished my front door with an oil based poly.
Since the temperatures were already down, it took almost
4 weeks for the smell to really disappear. Interestingly,
I noticed that the finish was a *lot* harder than it had
been after around one week (when it "looked" done).

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"RayV" wrote in message
After the in-laws visit on the 25th I will buff the marks out and
apply another coat which will probably fix the marks. But...

How long does this stuff take to cure?

I've read at least two weeks. I've done some rubbed out poly that came out
fantastic, but I let it cure two weeks before I started the polishing.
Given the number of coats you used, I'd say it can be three or four weeks.

On Wed, 12 Dec 2007 05:44:48 -0800 (PST), RayV
wrote:

The end tables I made for SWMBO are Maple stained with H2O-based stain
and covered with Varnish.

I applied the Varnish thinned 2:1 with Mineral Spirits by wiping with
a rag. I waited 24 hours between coats. Between the 3rd & 4th and
5th & 6th coats I scraped away any nastiness. Between the 6th & 7th
and 7th & 8th coats I rubbed it with #00 to smooth everything up.

So now I have 8 coats all applied with at least 24 hours in between.
I wait 48 hours then glue the apron and legs together. I thought the
clamps ruined the finish on the legs but it was just some dust from
the rubber pads that came off with a rough rubbing of a dry rag. Next
day I screw the tops on with some Norm style blocks set in a dado on
the aprons. Tada!

Swmbo is happy they are done (me too). I take them upstairs and she
positions them and carefully places the lamps on the tables with
doilies (sp?) underneath. (72 hours drying time for the tops -
applied in the heated basement).

Yesterday I get curious and lift the lamps and see marks where the
lamps made impressions of the doily fabric on the tables. I mumble
and mutter to myself.

After the in-laws visit on the 25th I will buff the marks out and
apply another coat which will probably fix the marks. But...

How long does this stuff take to cure?


I wait a month, sometimes 6 weeks. Then apply a coat a wax and buff.
A good finish takes patience.