http://www.newwoodworker.com/rtrdadojig.html



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

"J T" wrote in message
...
http://www.newwoodworker.com/rtrdadojig.html




I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that insures
a perfect fit every time with no measuring.

"Leon" wrote

I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures
a perfect fit every time with no measuring.

.... and, if I'm looking at it correctly, you better have a concentric router
base.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/09/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Wed, Dec 12, 2007, 8:27am (EST-1) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
I would call it a straight edge snip

As long and no one thinks I'm the one that names these things. I
just use whatever they call it - even when it sounds stupid.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

"J T" wrote in message
...
Wed, Dec 12, 2007, 8:27am (EST-1) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
I would call it a straight edge snip

As long and no one thinks I'm the one that names these things. I
just use whatever they call it - even when it sounds stupid.


LOL ;~)

On Wed, 12 Dec 2007 08:27:13 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that insures
a perfect fit every time with no measuring.



I like Leon's better... G

I use it often!

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2007 08:27:13 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures
a perfect fit every time with no measuring.



I like Leon's better... G

I use it often!

I found a new use for it last week. I used it to cut hinge mortises on
paired chest doors 2 at a time. I put the mating doors together with the
hinge sides together in the middle of the jig. Then I cut 2 spacers the
same width as the hinge to establish the width to set the jig at. I then
used the spacers as stops to limit how far into the doors the router would
cut.

"Leon" wrote in message
...



I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures a perfect fit every time with no measuring.
Care to share the design?

"SBH" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...



I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures a perfect fit every time with no measuring.
Care to share the design?



6 pictures on 2 posts on A.B.P.W.

Morris Dove had/has these pictures on his site also.

"SBH" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...



I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures a perfect fit every time with no measuring.
Care to share the design?




One other important note this jig requires the use of a TOP bearing flush
trim bit. I use a 1/2" bit.

Leon wrote:
"SBH" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
...


I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures a perfect fit every time with no measuring.
Care to share the design?




One other important note this jig requires the use of a TOP bearing flush
trim bit. I use a 1/2" bit.



Leon's jig is much more elaborate than
the one that I posted a description of
in another post.

I don't know it's much more accurate,
but it's likely easier to set up.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

"Tanus" wrote in message ...



Leon's jig is much more elaborate than the one that I posted a description
of in another post.

I don't know it's much more accurate, but it's likely easier to set up.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/


Where is than post? Is there a link?

Leon wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message ...

Leon's jig is much more elaborate than the one that I posted a description
of in another post.

I don't know it's much more accurate, but it's likely easier to set up.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/


Where is than post? Is there a link?



I don't have a link and my PC is being
nasty to my camera. However, here's the
post entitled " PC 690 router base
question".

wrote:
I have been looking to get my first
router. This is for occasional
hobby use. I am thinking of getting
either 690LR, a fixed base router
( $84) or 693LRPK, a kit with fix and
plunge base($184). I have a
question about the base. If I buy the
690LR fixed base router now ( to
keep the cost down), can I buy only a
plunge base later and mount the
motor into that?

Initially I will not have a router
table. Is the fixed base router
useful at all without being mounted
on a router table? Initially I
will be doing simple dado/rabbet (
maybe dovetail if I get enough
courage :-) or simple edging. No
fancy paneling.

Thanks.

-Dipu

I have a table. It's not a great table,
but it works. You can make an
approximation of a table with a straight
piece of wood and two clamps. That will
certainly be enough to cut dadoes and
rabbets, at least for a few cuts.

I also have a jig that I use to cut
dadoes with that's simple to build and
cheap. It's two pieces of wood, longer
than the width of board that you're
dadoing. The first piece (A) is a 1x2.
The second piece of wood (B) is wider
than the distance from the edge of your
router base to the inside edge of the
bit you're using.

Screw piece A to piece B flush on one
side. Measure from the INSIDE of piece A
across piece B til it's about 1/4" wider
than the distance from the outside of
your router base to the edge of the
router bit (mounted in the collet). Rip
along that measured line.

Then butt the router base against the
1x2 and rout the edge you've just sawed.
You now have a custom made dado jig for
that size of bit. The (routed) edge of
piece B will line up along the edge of
your marked dado.

This takes almost longer to describe
than it does to build. It's also easier
to build than describe.

When you've finished, paint it bright
yellow so you don't lose it.




--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/


--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

Thanks.

On Dec 12, 10:00 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Leon" wrote



I would call it a straight edge as it does not insure that the dado being
cut will fit the piece that fits in it. I designed a dado jig that
insures
a perfect fit every time with no measuring.

... and, if I'm looking at it correctly, you better have a concentric router
base.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/09/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

All MY routers have square bases.
Some have deliberately 'off-centre' bases.