I generally prefer deck screws but once the job requires a length less
than 1-1/4", then I'm scrambling to find something adequate. Yesterday
I was hanging chest drawers and I broke three woods with my hand-held
screw driver. I drilled holes to match the shaft diameter. The only
resistance came the threads turning through hardwood. Are there any
shorter wood screws that don't suck? I'm seriously thinking of cutting
deck screws down to size...

Jeff

Jeff wrote:
I generally prefer deck screws but once the job requires a length less
than 1-1/4", then I'm scrambling to find something adequate. Yesterday
I was hanging chest drawers and I broke three woods with my hand-held
screw driver. I drilled holes to match the shaft diameter. The only
resistance came the threads turning through hardwood. Are there any
shorter wood screws that don't suck? I'm seriously thinking of cutting
deck screws down to size...

Check out McFeeleys dot com. They've got a great assortment of quality
screws.

--
"Hey, yutz! Guns aren't toys.
They're for family protection, hunting dangerous or delicious animals,
and keeping the King of England out of your face."
-- Krusty the Clown

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
I generally prefer deck screws but once the job requires a length less
than 1-1/4", then I'm scrambling to find something adequate. Yesterday
I was hanging chest drawers and I broke three woods with my hand-held
screw driver. I drilled holes to match the shaft diameter. The only
resistance came the threads turning through hardwood. Are there any
shorter wood screws that don't suck? I'm seriously thinking of cutting
deck screws down to size...

Jeff

www.mcfeelys.com more screws than you can shake a stick at and top
quality as well.

Subject

SFWIW, I use S/S, self tapping, coarse thread, sheet metal screws for
wood applications.

I use a pilot drill that is 75% of thread OD.

No problems.

Lew

There are shorter dry wall screws that are pretty good. However, they
are black, so you will either need to use them were you can't see them
or plug them. I use them in preference to conventional slotted screws.

Also, if there is any chance of resistance, I simply soap the screw
before turning it in. Either bar soap or liquid works well. If there
is excess, simply wipe up with a damp cloth.

"professorpaul" wrote in message
...
There are shorter dry wall screws that are pretty good. However, they
are black, so you will either need to use them were you can't see them
or plug them. I use them in preference to conventional slotted screws.

Also, if there is any chance of resistance, I simply soap the screw
before turning it in. Either bar soap or liquid works well. If there
is excess, simply wipe up with a damp cloth.

Apparently soap can promote corrosion on screws, wax is a better choice.

Jeff wrote:
I generally prefer deck screws but once the job requires a length
less
than 1-1/4", then I'm scrambling to find something adequate.
Yesterday
I was hanging chest drawers and I broke three woods with my
hand-held
screw driver. I drilled holes to match the shaft diameter. The only
resistance came the threads turning through hardwood. Are there any
shorter wood screws that don't suck? I'm seriously thinking of
cutting
deck screws down to size...

Google "SPAX Screws".


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Subject

SFWIW, I use S/S, self tapping, coarse thread, sheet metal screws for
wood applications.

I use a pilot drill that is 75% of thread OD.

No problems.

Lew

Yabbut, then you have to get your micrometer out and your calculator.
It just gets too complicated. G

Max

Stop using wood screws and try using sheet metal screws.
Lou

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
I generally prefer deck screws but once the job requires a length less
than 1-1/4", then I'm scrambling to find something adequate. Yesterday
I was hanging chest drawers and I broke three woods with my hand-held
screw driver. I drilled holes to match the shaft diameter. The only
resistance came the threads turning through hardwood. Are there any
shorter wood screws that don't suck? I'm seriously thinking of cutting
deck screws down to size...

Jeff
I have a set of Lee Valley's tapered pilot bits with countersink. These are
for use with wood screws. They solved all my problems with screws. The
tapered wood screw doesn't grip until the last and when it does, it grips
suddenly and will apply vise like pressure. The first time I used them, my
mouth dropped open in amazement.

I buy screws at the box stores or a local hardware store now. :-)

On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 11:29:34 -0700, "Cubby" wrote:


www.mcfeelys.com more screws than you can shake a stick at and top
quality as well.



Make it three of us!

"DGDevin" wrote in message
...

"professorpaul" wrote in message
...
There are shorter dry wall screws that are pretty good. However, they
are black, so you will either need to use them were you can't see them
or plug them. I use them in preference to conventional slotted screws.

Also, if there is any chance of resistance, I simply soap the screw
before turning it in. Either bar soap or liquid works well. If there
is excess, simply wipe up with a damp cloth.

Apparently soap can promote corrosion on screws, wax is a better choice.
I bought a box of paraffin at the grocery store and use it for wood screws,
especially going into hardwood. I keep a bar on the workshop table, one in
the box with my drill bits and another in the drill tool box. That way I
can usually find at least one of them.

On Dec 12, 7:04 pm, "JimR" wrote:

I bought a box of paraffin at the grocery store and use it for wood screws,
especially going into hardwood. I keep a bar on the workshop table, one in
the box with my drill bits and another in the drill tool box. That way I
can usually find at least one of them.


You know, I used to figure that wax is wax, and used paraffin on
screws. Then I tried a lump of beeswax that I found in my
cabinetmaker great-grandfather's tool chest. It works a lot better.
With paraffin, screws in hard woods sometimes go in with a "squeak and
stick" sort of chattering. With beeswax, no squeak and easier
driving. Maybe the lower melting point has something to do with it.

John Martin

John Martin wrote:

On Dec 12, 7:04 pm, "JimR" wrote:

I bought a box of paraffin at the grocery store and use it for wood
screws,
especially going into hardwood. I keep a bar on the workshop table, one
in
the box with my drill bits and another in the drill tool box. That way I
can usually find at least one of them.


You know, I used to figure that wax is wax, and used paraffin on
screws. Then I tried a lump of beeswax that I found in my
cabinetmaker great-grandfather's tool chest. It works a lot better.
With paraffin, screws in hard woods sometimes go in with a "squeak and
stick" sort of chattering. With beeswax, no squeak and easier
driving. Maybe the lower melting point has something to do with it.


Been using beeswax for quite a while. I don't use it with McFeeley's
screws, but any brass screws always get waxed before being put in.

--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough

I use a wax ring from a commode seal. Cheep and it serves my needs.
Jim


"John Martin" wrote in message
...
On Dec 12, 7:04 pm, "JimR" wrote:

I bought a box of paraffin at the grocery store and use it for wood
screws,
especially going into hardwood. I keep a bar on the workshop table, one
in
the box with my drill bits and another in the drill tool box. That way I
can usually find at least one of them.


You know, I used to figure that wax is wax, and used paraffin on
screws. Then I tried a lump of beeswax that I found in my
cabinetmaker great-grandfather's tool chest. It works a lot better.
With paraffin, screws in hard woods sometimes go in with a "squeak and
stick" sort of chattering. With beeswax, no squeak and easier
driving. Maybe the lower melting point has something to do with it.

John Martin