This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.
http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm

I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
(no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
appeared.

I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.

So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
this stuff.
YMMV.

but but but...
where are the photos of the project?

"RayV" wrote in message
...
This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.
http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm

I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
(no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
appeared.

I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.

So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
this stuff.
YMMV.

"Kate" wrote
but but but...
where are the photos of the project?

"RayV" wrote

This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.
http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm

I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
(no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
appeared.

I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.

So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
this stuff.
YMMV.

Here's a picture of Polyshades (Pecan) on Pine.

http://tinyurl.com/2p7nkw

I didn't care for the looks but the woman who requested it was really
pleased.

Max

On Dec 10, 11:20 am, "Kate" wrote:
but but but...
where are the photos of the project?


My cable provider doesn't provide newsgroups so I can't get to ABPW.
Besides I didn't build it, it was purchased locally at an unfinished
furniture store.

The manufacturer was
http://www.archboldfurniture.com/

Not great quality but was only $150 so I can't complain, besides who
would listen?

Yep, actually a great solution for Pine. It is a film finish with
color toners added so it is not penetrating the wood per-se and thus
no blotching problem. I've never tried rag application of this but
sound interesting. Did you thin it down like a wipe on preperation or
rag it at full strength?

A few of the downsides of this type of product is it is real easy to
get darker sections where you have brush laps but maybe ragging helps
avoid this. It is also mostly 100% not repairable. Being poly and
having a color component you can't really sand out any problems and
easily blend in a new coat. You just can't feather this and the poly
doesn't dissolve with the new application. That being said I have a 18
year old (Pine) piece that my ex-wife moves every few years and it
looks almost as good as new, this stuff is hard as nails. I bought it
unfinished and lovingly used poly shades for my newborn (now 18 year
old) daughter.

On Dec 10, 5:44 am, RayV wrote:
This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm

I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
(no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
appeared.

I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.

So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
this stuff.
YMMV.

On Dec 10, 12:20 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Yep, actually a great solution for Pine. It is a film finish with
color toners added so it is not penetrating the wood per-se and thus
no blotching problem. I've never tried rag application of this but
sound interesting. Did you thin it down like a wipe on preperation or
rag it at full strength?


No prep, and wiped it on full strength with t-shirt. I did have to
smooth out the coats by wiping each coat twice to get rid of the lap
marks.

"RayV" wrote

This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.

Nothing wrong with Polyshades on jummywood ... I've even done it myself,
using a conditioner first, with excellent results.

What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!

Be advised that not even JOAT has enough pull with the woodworking gawds to
save you from a heresy of that magnitude!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/09/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

In article , Swingman
wrote:


What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!

Be advised that the only acceptable finish for cherry is black paint...
flat or gloss makes no difference :-)

Joe

"10x" wrote
Swingman wrote:

What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!

Be advised that the only acceptable finish for cherry is black paint...
flat or gloss makes no difference :-)

g

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/10/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)