I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

Band saw tuning frequency?

I tune mine to B#...
!

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

====== You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on frequencies!
*G*

Leif

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

====== You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on
frequencies! *G*

Leif
The man asked a legitimate question. Help him out!

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

====== You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on
frequencies! *G*
He needs to talk to Kenneth.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade
that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself
is not up to the task

On Dec 2, 6:16 pm, "Joe" wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message

...

I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade
that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself
is not up to the task

Power is not the problem. The blade is a 3/8, hook 3-4 tpi?? Seems
appropriate for the task

"Doug" wrote in message
I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?


If the guides are moving, they are crap and should be replaced with bolts
that stay put.

"Joe" wrote in message
. net...

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a
blade that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band
saw itself is not up to the task

Have you locked the guide bearings in place? Is your blade sharp? Have
you checked to see if your blade is at the proper tension? A quick tune up
never hurts and often finds the problem.

"Dave" wrote in message
m...

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

====== You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on
frequencies! *G*

Leif
The man asked a legitimate question. Help him out!

Oops! DS made me do it! *G* Actually quite a number of issues can be
involved, either singly or in combination. First this that comes to mind is
are your cabriolet legs curves to small a radius for the 3/8's blade. I
believe the minimum radius for your blade would be 1 inch? Also are your
blade guides upper and lower firmly locked in place by your setscrews/bolts?
What about the back guide? Is that set to the proper spacing? Tension
according to blade mfgr's specs? I had a problem with my 14 inch BS until I
switched out some pulleys and reset the motor for 240 operation. Many
things to drive one mad! *G*

Leif

DS wrote:
Band saw tuning frequency?

I tune mine to B#...
!

You better C# or you'll Bb

On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 14:33:16 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
...
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

====== You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on frequencies!
*G*

Leif


I don't think so. Isn't that Larry King, the King of Toots?

On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:43:57 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?


Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can
round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will
help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a
bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a
big difference.

In article , wrote:
On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:43:57 -0800 (PST), Doug
wrote:

I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?


Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can
round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will
help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a
bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a
big difference.

There shouldn't be any tight curves on a cabriole leg, certainly none tight
enough to need a 1/8" blade. 1/4" or 3/8" should do fine.

I think you may be on the money, though, when you look to cutting speed as a
possible explanation.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table
b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is
meant by it?

Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?

Are there specific parts to replace?

From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up

The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.

Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble
Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?

"Steve" wrote in message
...
DS wrote:
Band saw tuning frequency?

I tune mine to B#...
!

You better C# or you'll Bb


I agree - tuning to B# is really the same thing a tuning to C, and although
a sharp band saw is a thing to be desired, band saws just simply are not
C's. They're more generally O's.

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:43:57 -0800 (PST), Doug wrote:

I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

Your saw is a lot better than mine (ridgid) but I tune mine at blade changes and
it seems fine..
Not familiar with guide bearings, mine has the old type blocks, which I threw
away and out Cool Blocks in..
Are you adjusting the guides for blade side to side clearance or front to back?
If it's side to side, you may be starting with them to tight or not centering
the blade..
If it's front to back, the tracking might be the culprit, or play in the height
adjusting arm?

My saw has thumb screws to lock settings, what does the Griz use?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 3 Dec 2007 07:00:13 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi
wrote:

OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table
b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is
meant by it?

Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?

Are there specific parts to replace?

From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up

The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.

Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble
Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?

All of the above should be in your manual... on the Ridgid, it's under "setting
up your saw..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Doug wrote:
I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

By chance are you using Grizzly's blades? I ask as when I first got my
Grizzly G1019 bandsaw I couldn't cut 4" of pine without problems.
Switching to a different manufactures blade made a world of difference.

I recommend Suffolk "Timberwolf", Highland Hardware's "Woodslicer" or
Olsen "All-Pro" blades.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/1_2_blades.asp

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...arch=GO&Page=1

http://www.olsonsaw.com/ap.html

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Dec 2, 5:14 pm, Doug wrote:
On Dec 2, 6:16 pm, "Joe" wrote:

"Doug" wrote in message

...

I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?

4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade
that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself
is not up to the task

Power is not the problem. The blade is a 3/8, hook 3-4 tpi?? Seems
appropriate for the task

Hi Doug,

When you say "3-4 TPI" do you mean that it's a variable pitch blade?
Or, are you not sure of the pitch? You want to make sure that the
pitch is coarse enough that you don't clog the gullets before the
teeth get all the way through the wood. Clogged gullets will produce
chatter (blade vibrations) and require more cutting force to maintain
the same feed rate. Does the vibration go away when you reduce the
feed rate? This could be the (a) problem. By the way, variable pitch
blades are great for helping to reduce vibration and chatter.

The blade guides should not become loose and move. Make sure that
they are properly adjusted and tight. The goal is to keep the blade
from flexing (side to side or front to back) during the cut. If they
won't stay tight, get yourself some Loctite or consider upgrading to
better guides.

It sounds like you are hitting a resonant frequency and causing the
blade (and likely the whole frame) to vibrate quite a bit. Changing
the tension will move the resonant frequency of the blade. The higher
the tension, the higher the resonant frequency. This notion that you
should tension the blade to match a particular musical note is
folklore (promulgated by a particularly famous but technically inept
author). The proper tension is going to vary depending on a number of
factors including the mass of the frame, the size of the blade, the
cutting speed, the feed rate, position of the blade guides, etc. It
might be one note for a particular machine/blade/speed/feed rate and a
completely different note for another combination. You don't need
perfect pitch (or an electronic tuner) to adjust your blade tension.
Adjust the tension so that you obtain a straight, square cut with
minimal vibration and chatter (i.e. you'll need to develop some skill
here).

When the blade guide is properly adjusted, moving it up and down will
also change the resonant frequency (just like fingering a different
fret on a guitar). Changing the blade speed will make it much more
difficult to hit a resonant frequency. And, as I mentioned above, the
feed rate can have a great effect on vibration and chatter.

Even knowing all of this may not help you solve the problem. Some
time ago I was re-sawing some 6" thick bubinga. The same saw, with
the same blade, and the same tension sliced through a similar piece of
black limba like a hot knife through butter. But, it was nothing less
than hell on Earth getting through the bubinga. I just had to grit my
teeth, put on the hearing protection, and fight for every inch of
progress. The process was painful but the results were worth it.

Ed Bennett


http://www.ts-aligner.com
Home of the TS-Aligner