I'm making multiple small items and would need hundreds of clamps
(literally) to hold everything in place while the glue sets. I tried
Titebond II (I need some water repelency) but the set time was too
long, the glue expanded and the bond was too thick/uneven. I then
tried Krazy Glue (Gel Craft Type) and it worked perfectly. The only
problem is Krazy Glue is very expensive ($3/ 2gm = .14oz) and I have
no data to indicate what the bond will do over time. I've read second
hand accounts that the Krazy Glue becomes brittle. The parts being
glued are non-moving and I don't want them to be flexible but I'm
uncertain whether some level of flexibility is desirable to account
for wood expansion. That said, does anyone know of any readily
available, cheap alternatives to Krazy Glue? I know Krazy Glue is CA
but I'm leary of trying a total generic from the dollar store. I need
a quick (nearly immediate) set and flow control (can't use sprays).

Thanks in advance.

"Chrisgiraffe" wrote:

I'm making multiple small items and would need hundreds of clamps
(literally) to hold everything in place while the glue sets. I tried
Titebond II (I need some water repelency) but the set time was too
long, the glue expanded and the bond was too thick/uneven. I then
tried Krazy Glue (Gel Craft Type) and it worked perfectly. The only
problem is Krazy Glue is very expensive ($3/ 2gm = .14oz) and I have
no data to indicate what the bond will do over time. I've read
second
hand accounts that the Krazy Glue becomes brittle. The parts being
glued are non-moving and I don't want them to be flexible but I'm
uncertain whether some level of flexibility is desirable to account
for wood expansion. That said, does anyone know of any readily
available, cheap alternatives to Krazy Glue? I know Krazy Glue is CA
but I'm leary of trying a total generic from the dollar store. I
need
a quick (nearly immediate) set and flow control (can't use sprays).

Contact cement or a good quality double back tape such as 3M offers.

Lew

Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 9:49pm (EST-3) (Chrisgiraffe)
doth query:
snip That said, does anyone know of any readily available, cheap
alternatives to Krazy Glue? snip

A couple of brads until the glue sets.



JOAT
Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

Chrisgiraffe wrote in news:2059a2fa-fabe-49f7-
:

I'm making multiple small items and would need hundreds of clamps
(literally) to hold everything in place while the glue sets. I tried
Titebond II (I need some water repelency) but the set time was too
long, the glue expanded and the bond was too thick/uneven. I then
tried Krazy Glue (Gel Craft Type) and it worked perfectly. The only
problem is Krazy Glue is very expensive ($3/ 2gm = .14oz) and I have
no data to indicate what the bond will do over time. I've read second
hand accounts that the Krazy Glue becomes brittle. The parts being
glued are non-moving and I don't want them to be flexible but I'm
uncertain whether some level of flexibility is desirable to account
for wood expansion. That said, does anyone know of any readily
available, cheap alternatives to Krazy Glue? I know Krazy Glue is CA
but I'm leary of trying a total generic from the dollar store. I need
a quick (nearly immediate) set and flow control (can't use sprays).

Thanks in advance.

You probably should avoid the total generic from the dollar store. I
don't get good results from the cheap generic super glues, but the higher
cost and quality ones are worth their cost.

This might be a good question to ask at one of your local hobby shops.
Take a look at the yellow pages or hobbyretailer.com (not a plug, just a
occasional visitor) for one.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Puckdropper wrote:
Chrisgiraffe wrote in news:2059a2fa-fabe-49f7-
:


I'm making multiple small items and would need hundreds of clamps
(literally) to hold everything in place while the glue sets. I tried
Titebond II (I need some water repelency) but the set time was too
long, the glue expanded and the bond was too thick/uneven. I then
tried Krazy Glue (Gel Craft Type) and it worked perfectly. The only
problem is Krazy Glue is very expensive ($3/ 2gm = .14oz) and I have
no data to indicate what the bond will do over time. I've read second
hand accounts that the Krazy Glue becomes brittle. The parts being
glued are non-moving and I don't want them to be flexible but I'm
uncertain whether some level of flexibility is desirable to account
for wood expansion. That said, does anyone know of any readily
available, cheap alternatives to Krazy Glue? I know Krazy Glue is CA
but I'm leary of trying a total generic from the dollar store. I need
a quick (nearly immediate) set and flow control (can't use sprays).

Thanks in advance.


You probably should avoid the total generic from the dollar store. I
don't get good results from the cheap generic super glues, but the higher
cost and quality ones are worth their cost.

This might be a good question to ask at one of your local hobby shops.
Take a look at the yellow pages or hobbyretailer.com (not a plug, just a
occasional visitor) for one.


Try your favorite search engine using "superglue bulk".

Chrisgiraffe wrote:
The only
problem is Krazy Glue is very expensive ($3/ 2gm = .14oz) and I have
no data to indicate what the bond will do over time.

Go to a hobby shop that sells radio control airplanes, you can buy CA
(the generic term for Krazy Glue)glue in containers as large as 8 oz.
You can also choose between thin, medium, thick, and gel consistencies,
as well as special blends for different materials.

CA glues should outlast us. I have 15+ year old model airplanes that
have been baked in the sun, frozen, vibrated by engines, stressed by
ugly landings and high-G maneuvering, and soaked with oil and methanol,
that show no signs of glue failure.

"B A R R Y" wrote
Chrisgiraffe wrote:
The only
problem is Krazy Glue is very expensive ($3/ 2gm = .14oz) and I have
no data to indicate what the bond will do over time.

Go to a hobby shop that sells radio control airplanes, you can buy CA
(the generic term for Krazy Glue)glue in containers as large as 8 oz.
You can also choose between thin, medium, thick, and gel consistencies,
as well as special blends for different materials.

CA glues should outlast us. I have 15+ year old model airplanes that
have been baked in the sun, frozen, vibrated by engines, stressed by
ugly landings and high-G maneuvering, and soaked with oil and methanol,
that show no signs of glue failure.

Above is good advice and about all the OP needs.

Additionally, and in many instances, I've found that CA glues will also work
for "after the fact" gluing of small woodworking parts that have already
been finished where traditional woodworking glues would not bond.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/16/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"B A R R Y" wrote

Go to a hobby shop that sells radio control airplanes, you can buy CA
(the generic term for Krazy Glue)glue in containers as large as 8 oz.

I forgot to mention...

1.) CA can cure in the bottle over time, and when exposed to moisture.
Don't buy TOO much! When I was using a lot of it, I never kept for than
a 3 month supply handy, and kept it tightly capped.

2.) CA can be set up instantly by breathing moist breath or dusting
baking soda on the wet glue.

3.) Your body can get progressively more sensitive to CA fumes. Use
proper ventilation.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote

Go to a hobby shop that sells radio control airplanes, you can buy CA
(the generic term for Krazy Glue)glue in containers as large as 8 oz.

I forgot to mention...

1.) CA can cure in the bottle over time, and when exposed to moisture.
Don't buy TOO much! When I was using a lot of it, I never kept for than a
3 month supply handy, and kept it tightly capped.

2.) CA can be set up instantly by breathing moist breath or dusting baking
soda on the wet glue.

3.) Your body can get progressively more sensitive to CA fumes. Use
proper ventilation.

Do you refrigerate you glue? I have a bottle of "super glue" that has set
in my refrigerator when not being used for at least 10 years and is good
every time I use it.

CA glue lasts well over a year if you do "NOT" cap it and keep it in the
fridge.

cm

www.vintagetrailersforsale.com


"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote

Go to a hobby shop that sells radio control airplanes, you can buy CA
(the generic term for Krazy Glue)glue in containers as large as 8 oz.

I forgot to mention...

1.) CA can cure in the bottle over time, and when exposed to moisture.
Don't buy TOO much! When I was using a lot of it, I never kept for than a
3 month supply handy, and kept it tightly capped.

2.) CA can be set up instantly by breathing moist breath or dusting baking
soda on the wet glue.

3.) Your body can get progressively more sensitive to CA fumes. Use
proper ventilation.

CM wrote:
CA glue lasts well over a year if you do "NOT" cap it and keep it in
the fridge.

Mine lasts well over a year if I cap it and keep it in the basement.

I do have to drill the dried glue out of the hole if it's been sitting
for a while.

cm

www.vintagetrailersforsale.com


"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote

Go to a hobby shop that sells radio control airplanes, you can
buy
CA (the generic term for Krazy Glue)glue in containers as large
as
8 oz.

I forgot to mention...

1.) CA can cure in the bottle over time, and when exposed to
moisture. Don't buy TOO much! When I was using a lot of it, I
never
kept for than a 3 month supply handy, and kept it tightly capped.

2.) CA can be set up instantly by breathing moist breath or dusting
baking soda on the wet glue.

3.) Your body can get progressively more sensitive to CA fumes.
Use
proper ventilation.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

CM wrote:
CA glue lasts well over a year if you do "NOT" cap it and keep it in
the fridge.

Mine lasts well over a year if I cap it and keep it in the basement.

I do have to drill the dried glue out of the hole if it's been sitting
for a while.


I got mine about 8 months ago. It's still doing good, but has glued the
cap on a couple times. A pair of pliers fixes the problem really quick.

It's been stored about room temperature, capped between uses.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Swingman" wrote

Additionally, and in many instances, I've found that CA glues will also
work
for "after the fact" gluing of small woodworking parts that have already
been finished where traditional woodworking glues would not bond.


Ahhhhhh....,

That goes back to that old adage,

"A true craftman knows how to cover his mistakes".

Another variation is, "It ain't a mistake if you can't see it".

"Leon" asked us

Do you refrigerate your glue? I have a bottle of "super glue" that has
set in my refrigerator when not being used for at least 10 years and is
good every time I use it.


Do you keep it next to the mayonaise?

I can see a potential problem here.

Honey, can I keep a bottle of this highly toxic glue next to your prized
peppers?

Hmmmm..., maybe if I find the right way to present it.

Hmmmmm...

Chrisgiraffe wrote:
That said, does anyone know of any readily
available, cheap alternatives to Krazy Glue? I know Krazy Glue is CA
but I'm leary of trying a total generic from the dollar store. I need
a quick (nearly immediate) set and flow control (can't use sprays).

Try Lee Valley or any other decent woodworking supply store (or a
hobby/modelling store as someone else suggested).

You can get thin/medium/thick viscosity glues in larger containers. You
can also get accelerator sprays that set the glue almost instantly, at
the cost of a somewhat weaker bond.

Chris

Leon wrote:


Do you refrigerate you glue? I have a bottle of "super glue" that has set
in my refrigerator when not being used for at least 10 years and is good
every time I use it.


I did for a while, but had it go both ways, so I stopped.

CM wrote:
CA glue lasts well over a year if you do "NOT" cap it and keep it in the
fridge.


Maybe that has something to do with climate?

J. Clarke wrote:


I do have to drill the dried glue out of the hole if it's been sitting
for a while.

Right. The plug acts like a cap, sealing the container. G

I was using the larger bottles on a regular basis, which probably
exchanged the air in the container more often than a bottle simply
sitting on the shelf.

I also used a decent amount of accelerator, so I'm sure the fumes got
into the bottle and didn't help.

"Lee Michaels" wrote

"Swingman" wrote

Additionally, and in many instances, I've found that CA glues will also
work
for "after the fact" gluing of small woodworking parts that have already
been finished where traditional woodworking glues would not bond.


Ahhhhhh....,

That goes back to that old adage,

"A true craftman knows how to cover his mistakes".

Another variation is, "It ain't a mistake if you can't see it".

More like: "Yeah, those corbels were in the original design!"


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/16/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Lee Michaels wrote:
"Leon" asked us

Do you refrigerate your glue? I have a bottle of "super glue" that
has set in my refrigerator when not being used for at least 10
years and is good every time I use it.


Do you keep it next to the mayonaise?

I can see a potential problem here.

Honey, can I keep a bottle of this highly toxic glue next to your
prized peppers?

CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have never
tried it). The main danger with CA is that it bonds moist tissue very
rapidly, so you can glue your fingers together (which is annoying but
not disastrous) or glue your eyelids to your eyes (which requires
surgical intervention and may result in permanent eye damage).

But if it's really that much of an issue get a beer fridge for the
shop.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:

CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have never
tried it).

I seem to remember something about it being invented as a field suture
in Vietnam.

Of course, that also may be an urban legend, but it sounds good... G

B A R R Y wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:

CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it
works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have
never
tried it).

I seem to remember something about it being invented as a field
suture
in Vietnam.

Of course, that also may be an urban legend, but it sounds good...
G

Urban legend. Eastman 910 was on the market in the '50s--the inventor
appeared on the "I've Got a Secret" TV show in 1959--his secret was
Eastman 910. The surgical variant came along later, but reportedly
was tested in Vietnam--FDA approval didn't come until _much_ later.
Now you can buy cyanocrylate based wound closures at most
pharamacies--Band-Aid sells one.

The medical variant has slightly different chemistry, mainly aimed at
reducing heat buidup during cure (which also means that it doesn't
cure in 30 seconds) and at reducing irritation.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Nov 30, 10:08 am, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Leon" asked us



Do you refrigerate your glue? I have a bottle of "super glue" that has
set in my refrigerator when not being used for at least 10 years and is
good every time I use it.

Do you keep it next to the mayonaise?

I can see a potential problem here.

Honey, can I keep a bottle of this highly toxic glue next to your prized
peppers?

Hmmmm..., maybe if I find the right way to present it.

Hmmmmm...

Whatever you do..... do NOT store next to the peanut butter. Any cross-
contamination and the stuff will REALLY stick to the roof of your
mouth...I'm tellin' ya!

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Snip


CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have never
tried it). The main danger with CA is that it bonds moist tissue very
rapidly, so you can glue your fingers together (which is annoying but
not disastrous) or glue your eyelids to your eyes (which requires
surgical intervention and may result in permanent eye damage).


Toxic or not, you are going to be in a jam if you glue your moth shut. LOL

Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Snip


CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have never
tried it). The main danger with CA is that it bonds moist tissue very
rapidly, so you can glue your fingers together (which is annoying but
not disastrous) or glue your eyelids to your eyes (which requires
surgical intervention and may result in permanent eye damage).



Toxic or not, you are going to be in a jam if you glue your moth shut. LOL


We had a two year old child bite into a tube of Superglue, got it on her lips
and teeth. We rushed her to the ER in a state of semi-panic, not letting her
close her mouth. The ER workers thought it was kind of funny, and just applied
petroleum jelly to fix the problem.

On Nov 30, 5:12 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message

...
Snip



CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have never
tried it). The main danger with CA is that it bonds moist tissue very
rapidly, so you can glue your fingers together (which is annoying but
not disastrous) or glue your eyelids to your eyes (which requires
surgical intervention and may result in permanent eye damage).

Toxic or not, you are going to be in a jam if you glue your moth shut. LOL

Whoa, Leon...did you just invent a cure for politicianitis?

"Swingman" wrote in
:


"Lee Michaels" wrote

"Swingman" wrote

Additionally, and in many instances, I've found that CA glues will
also work
for "after the fact" gluing of small woodworking parts that have
already been finished where traditional woodworking glues would not
bond.


Ahhhhhh....,

That goes back to that old adage,

"A true craftman knows how to cover his mistakes".

Another variation is, "It ain't a mistake if you can't see it".

More like: "Yeah, those corbels were in the original design!"



It's not a mistake if you document it. It's a feature.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 11:54:06 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

B A R R Y wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:

CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it
works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have
never
tried it).

I seem to remember something about it being invented as a field
suture
in Vietnam.

Of course, that also may be an urban legend, but it sounds good...
G

Urban legend. Eastman 910 was on the market in the '50s--the inventor
appeared on the "I've Got a Secret" TV show in 1959--his secret was
Eastman 910. The surgical variant came along later, but reportedly
was tested in Vietnam--FDA approval didn't come until _much_ later.
Now you can buy cyanocrylate based wound closures at most
pharamacies--Band-Aid sells one.

The medical variant has slightly different chemistry, mainly aimed at
reducing heat buidup during cure (which also means that it doesn't
cure in 30 seconds) and at reducing irritation.

--

I had this used on me during my heart surgery... now if they could do
anything about the SMELL!

Bob the Tomato wrote:

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 11:54:06 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

B A R R Y wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:

CA is not "highly toxic". A relative is used in surgery and people
have been using it for a quick and dirty band-aid for ages (it
works
fine, despite dire predictions of disaster from those who have
never
tried it).

I seem to remember something about it being invented as a field
suture
in Vietnam.

Of course, that also may be an urban legend, but it sounds good...
G

Urban legend. Eastman 910 was on the market in the '50s--the inventor
appeared on the "I've Got a Secret" TV show in 1959--his secret was
Eastman 910. The surgical variant came along later, but reportedly
was tested in Vietnam--FDA approval didn't come until _much_ later.
Now you can buy cyanocrylate based wound closures at most
pharamacies--Band-Aid sells one.


Kind of late to the thread, but Cyanoacrylate was invented during WWII by
some the gentleman referenced above at Kodak (hence the Eastman name). He
was working on adhesives to hold lenses together and found this
formulation. During his experimentation, he tried it and was unable to
de-bond the lenses he adhered together. At the time, in his mind this was
a dismal failure and he and others were very unhappy with the fact that not
only did the adhesive not work as they wanted, but they had also ruined
some very expensive and important optics. Another one of those "out of the
ashes" stories.


--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough