I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would need
for duct work.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit pricier.
However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online catalog where I
could order this stuff anyway.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out of my
price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I buy
it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be adequate for
my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of straight line, with
two drops to my tools and the drop going to the DC. My DC only has a 4"
port, so it doesn't seem like using larger pipe would gain me anything.
Maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Anthony

On Nov 28, 9:09 pm, HerHusband wrote:
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

The clear with wire in it resists the static build up through the wire
thats in it through allowing a leakage current. On the other hand
I've never been shocked in my garage shop with pvc pipe, I've even
touched it while it had been running for a long time. I just ran some
spare wire through it and hooked it up to a grounded piece of conduit.

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The
corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would
need
for duct work.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit pricier.
However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online catalog where I
could order this stuff anyway.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out of my
price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I buy
it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be adequate
for
my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of straight line, with
two drops to my tools and the drop going to the DC. My DC only has a 4"
port, so it doesn't seem like using larger pipe would gain me anything.
Maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Anthony

Have you priced pipe at Oneida?

http://store.oneida-air.com/ductwork.asp

Max

HerHusband wrote:
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be
lingering concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to
me, I don't want to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have
chosen not to use PVC for my ducts.

Nobody has ever produced credible evidence of such a fire or
explosion. Wrapping a spiral of wire around the outside of the
ductwork will bleed off enough charge to avoid shock.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire
inside
for their ducts. However, since this is just another form of
plastic,
does anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does?
The
corrugated nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Mine has never shocked me, let alone exploded. There's probably some
air restriction, but with a 5 HP cyclone I don't notice it.

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes
seems the next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other
fittings I would need for duct work.

It's also not made to take suction.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit
pricier. However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online
catalog where I could order this stuff anyway.

Penn State Industries. It's expensive as Hell.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out
of
my price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course
priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I
buy it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be
adequate for my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of
straight line, with two drops to my tools and the drop going to the
DC. My DC only has a 4" port, so it doesn't seem like using larger
pipe would gain me anything. Maybe I'm wrong?

No real point to having the piping bigger than the inlet on the
collector.


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Nov 28, 8:09 pm, HerHusband wrote:
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would need
for duct work.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit pricier.
However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online catalog where I
could order this stuff anyway.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out of my
price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I buy
it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be adequate for
my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of straight line, with
two drops to my tools and the drop going to the DC. My DC only has a 4"
port, so it doesn't seem like using larger pipe would gain me anything.
Maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Anthony

Sounds fine. But I kind of enjoy the shocks, too. Tom

HerHusband wrote:

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire
inside for
their ducts.

Sounds like another variation of a clothes dryer exhaust kit.

Lew

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 21:09:48 -0600, HerHusband
wrote:

I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would need
for duct work.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit pricier.
However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online catalog where I
could order this stuff anyway.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out of my
price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I buy
it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be adequate for
my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of straight line, with
two drops to my tools and the drop going to the DC. My DC only has a 4"
port, so it doesn't seem like using larger pipe would gain me anything.
Maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Anthony


You can use the regular PVC and spiral wrap a copper wire around it. A
1.5 HP DC is barely adequate for ceiling runs and drops--for that you
need 3 HP, unless all your dust is very fine particles. Thirty-Five
feet is a long run for just 1.5 HP. Why not just roll the DC to the
machine when needed?

HerHusband wrote:
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would need
for duct work.

I built my first ducts with PVC and ran a ground wire through it.

Next, I pulled out the wire, as it caused clogs. I didn't blow up. G

The PVC started to crack and fall apart, and tighter turn radius of the
PVC fittings and the 4" pipe seemed to be choking my system, and I plan
on moving to a cyclone soon, so I replumbed with 6" metal.

The 6" stuff is working GREAT, I obtained 6" metal gates and flex pipe
from Lee Valley, doing the reduction to 4" right at the tool. The
results are much better, even with the existing DC. Certain tools, like
my DJ20 are 6" right into the tool. I used all 26 ga. 6" steel pipe,
with 3 pop rivets at each joint. I then used 3" aluminum duct tape to
seal each joint.

As for finding metal pipe? Screw Lowes and Home Depot, and check your
yellow pages for an HVAC supplier.

My stuff came from a local Winnelson franchise. They can be a bit
intimidating, as you walk in and face a counter, vs. picking out your
own stuff on a home center, but once you get used to dealing with these
operations, they're great. Mine even takes Visa and Mastercard. G

Start with a very short description of what you want to do, and let
them help you put the parts together. Once he does the order, you'll
drive over to a dock and they'll hand you boxes of parts! G My guys
accept returns, so I bought a little extra of certain items and returned
what I didn't use. Check into the local return policy before you buy.

I only use 2, 10" lengths of that clear wire reinforced hose 20' total, to
collect dust from all of my equipment.
I use no ridged pieces at all. I run the hose from the collector to a hose
hook hanging from the ceiling and back down to the floor. This takes care
of equipment that is on the side of the garage. If I need to go to the
other side of the garage I simply take the hose off of the hook and move it
to the other side.

Do I get static shock, not once in about 2 years. Does dust cling to the
ribs? Slightly but not enough to notice a performance drop. It does
perfectly collect absolutely all the waste from a 15" stationary planer,
22/44 Drum sander, and probably as good as any other set up on collecting
from the BS, TS, Disk Sander, Spindle Sander, Router Table, and or Drill
Press. I use no gates or "Y's", strictly the 20" flexible hose. The
beauty to not fastening it permanently is that you can easily move the hose
to exactly where you want it to do other cleaning chores and machines can be
used anywhere within the 20' length of the hose.




"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The
corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would
need
for duct work.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit pricier.
However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online catalog where I
could order this stuff anyway.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out of my
price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I buy
it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be adequate
for
my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of straight line, with
two drops to my tools and the drop going to the DC. My DC only has a 4"
port, so it doesn't seem like using larger pipe would gain me anything.
Maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Anthony

"Leon" wrote in message
et...
I only use 2, 10" lengths of that clear wire reinforced hose 20' total, to
collect dust from all of my equipment.
I use no ridged pieces at all. I run the hose from the collector to a
hose hook hanging from the ceiling and back down to the floor. This takes
care of equipment that is on the side of the garage. If I need to go to
the other side of the garage I simply take the hose off of the hook and
move it to the other side.

Do I get static shock, not once in about 2 years. Does dust cling to the
ribs? Slightly but not enough to notice a performance drop. It does
perfectly collect absolutely all the waste from a 15" stationary planer,
22/44 Drum sander, and probably as good as any other set up on collecting
from the BS, TS, Disk Sander, Spindle Sander, Router Table, and or Drill
Press. I use no gates or "Y's", strictly the 20" flexible hose. The
beauty to not fastening it permanently is that you can easily move the
hose to exactly where you want it to do other cleaning chores and machines
can be used anywhere within the 20' length of the hose.


One other thing, my set up is about as cheap as it gets and as easy to set
up as it gets. You can start there and see if you actually want to go
farther with it.

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 21:09:48 -0600, HerHusband wrote:
PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

Search the group archives. Lots of people, myself included, use PVC
without any problems.

I have a 2hp Jet canister dust collector. I ran 6-inch S&D for
horizontal runs across the ceiling, and down to the DC, with a short
length of flexible line to make the connection to the DC inlet. I used
"Y" fittings in a couple of places where an elbow would have been OK, as
an access for cleanout. I closed the access opening with a screw-in cap
fitting. I haven't had to use them yet. All vertical drops are 4-inch
S&D, with metal (cast aluminum) blast gates to make the transisiton to
flexible line to the machines. All 90-degree bends are done with two
45-degree elbows to keep the bend radius as large as possible. I
purchased the S&D pipe and most of the fittings and hangers at a local
plumbing supply. I found additional fittings at Lowe's.

My TS and router table are the farthest from the DC. I recently added a
drop to connect an over-blade collector on my TS (Shark Guard). I also
have a BS and jointer connected, and a radial saw using a hood built
from plywood. I added a short vertical drop with a blast gate and
bayonet quick-disconnect in an open area of my shop where I connect my
portable planer or drum sander when I'm using those tools.

I think my system works pretty well.

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be
adequate for my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of
straight line, with two drops to my tools and the drop going to the
DC. My DC only has a 4" port, so it doesn't seem like using larger
pipe would gain me anything. Maybe I'm wrong?

Read the info on Bill Pentz's website about duct sizing.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

Leon wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
et...
I only use 2, 10" lengths of that clear wire reinforced hose 20' total, to
collect dust from all of my equipment.
I use no ridged pieces at all. I run the hose from the collector to a
hose hook hanging from the ceiling and back down to the floor. This takes
care of equipment that is on the side of the garage. If I need to go to
the other side of the garage I simply take the hose off of the hook and
move it to the other side.

Do I get static shock, not once in about 2 years. Does dust cling to the
ribs? Slightly but not enough to notice a performance drop. It does
perfectly collect absolutely all the waste from a 15" stationary planer,
22/44 Drum sander, and probably as good as any other set up on collecting
from the BS, TS, Disk Sander, Spindle Sander, Router Table, and or Drill
Press. I use no gates or "Y's", strictly the 20" flexible hose. The
beauty to not fastening it permanently is that you can easily move the
hose to exactly where you want it to do other cleaning chores and machines
can be used anywhere within the 20' length of the hose.


One other thing, my set up is about as cheap as it gets and as easy to set
up as it gets. You can start there and see if you actually want to go
farther with it.


Since all of my power tools except the RAS are on mobile bases in 1/3 of
a 3 car garage, and I generally have to move them for a project of any
size. I do the same as Leon with the exception of a trash can cyclone in
the middle of the 20' 4" hoses.

"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
...


Since all of my power tools except the RAS are on mobile bases in 1/3 of a
3 car garage, and I generally have to move them for a project of any size.
I do the same as Leon with the exception of a trash can cyclone in the
middle of the 20' 4" hoses.

I have got to find space for a trash can in the middle. ;~) On 2 jewelry
boxes I am working on I am almost ready to empty the bag for a second time
on an 1100 cfm collector.

I keep thinking that there must be a way to reroute or add to the DC exhaust
a hose to go to a trash can. When the bag gets full use the dust collector
hose and the rerouted exhaust to clean out the bag.

A 1.5 HP DC is barely adequate for ceiling runs and drops --
for that you need 3 HP, unless all your dust is very fine particles.

Really? Bummer. Thanks for the info. Something to consider.

Why not just roll the DC to the machine when needed?

I'm sure that's the approach I'll be using for a while. It'll give me time
to research the ducting situation more.

Anthony

Leon,

I only use 2, 10" lengths of that clear wire reinforced hose 20'
total, to collect dust from all of my equipment.
I use no ridged pieces at all.

Thanks for the info. I suspect this is the approach I'll be using for a
while till I know how the collector works in actual operation.

Also, the only stationary tool I have is my miter saw. Everything else is
mobile and moves around anyway. So, I'd need a good length of flexible hose
no matter what.

I'll probably approach the duct issue in steps. For now I'll just roll the
DC near the tool and connect it with my current 10' hose. From there I
might buy a longer hose so I can leave the DC in place and just drag the
duct to the tool. Then I might investigate making fixed duct runs.

I use no gates or "Y's", strictly the 20" flexible hose. The beauty
to not fastening it permanently is that you can easily move the hose
to exactly where you want it

Are you using quick-connects on the ends at the tool? I was thinking of
ordering some to make the connections easier at each tool, much like a shop
vac hose.

the 20' length of the hose.

Do you know which is more flexible, the black duct hose or the clear wire
reinforced hose? I bought a 10' length of JET black hose which seems fairly
flexible, but it wants to keep curling back into the loop it had in the
box.

Thanks,

Anthony

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
Snip



I'll probably approach the duct issue in steps. For now I'll just roll the
DC near the tool and connect it with my current 10' hose. From there I
might buy a longer hose so I can leave the DC in place and just drag the
duct to the tool. Then I might investigate making fixed duct runs.

If you buy enough flex hose, you can leave the dust collector in it's normal
storage area. 2, 10" hosed will reach just about every where and I dont
have to wheel the DC out. While moving it is no problem it can get in the
way and is not necessary. I only move it to empty the bag.



I use no gates or "Y's", strictly the 20" flexible hose. The beauty
to not fastening it permanently is that you can easily move the hose
to exactly where you want it

Are you using quick-connects on the ends at the tool? I was thinking of
ordering some to make the connections easier at each tool, much like a
shop
vac hose.

I use a hose union to join the 2 hoses and on the end of the hose I put a
flared female end. This flared end easily slips over all the ports on the
TS, BS, Planer, and Drum Sander, for smaller ports I use an adaptor at the
tool to fit the flared fitting on the end of the hose.



the 20' length of the hose.

Do you know which is more flexible, the black duct hose or the clear wire
reinforced hose? I bought a 10' length of JET black hose which seems
fairly
flexible, but it wants to keep curling back into the loop it had in the
box.

I do not know for sure but the clear is flezable enough. If the black is
like regular shop vac hose, IMHO that would be too stiff. The clear works
very well. The clear does not have a memory.
I go the clear flex hose on a 1/2 price sale for about $10 per 10' section
and purchased 6 or 7 connectors and adapters



If it would help, I can tale a picture to show you just how simple my set up
is and post on A.B.P.W.

On Nov 29, 7:51 am, Doug Winterburn wrote:
Leon wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
. net...
I only use 2, 10" lengths of that clear wire reinforced hose 20' total, to
collect dust from all of my equipment.
I use no ridged pieces at all. I run the hose from the collector to a
hose hook hanging from the ceiling and back down to the floor. This takes
care of equipment that is on the side of the garage. If I need to go to
the other side of the garage I simply take the hose off of the hook and
move it to the other side.

Do I get static shock, not once in about 2 years. Does dust cling to the
ribs? Slightly but not enough to notice a performance drop. It does
perfectly collect absolutely all the waste from a 15" stationary planer,
22/44 Drum sander, and probably as good as any other set up on collecting
from the BS, TS, Disk Sander, Spindle Sander, Router Table, and or Drill
Press. I use no gates or "Y's", strictly the 20" flexible hose. The
beauty to not fastening it permanently is that you can easily move the
hose to exactly where you want it to do other cleaning chores and machines
can be used anywhere within the 20' length of the hose.

One other thing, my set up is about as cheap as it gets and as easy to set
up as it gets. You can start there and see if you actually want to go
farther with it.

Since all of my power tools except the RAS are on mobile bases in 1/3 of
a 3 car garage, and I generally have to move them for a project of any
size. I do the same as Leon with the exception of a trash can cyclone in
the middle of the 20' 4" hoses.

In a previous shop configuration, I had a similar setup only with the
trash can cyclone mounted on a small extension hanging off the dust
collector. I used two pieces of 4/4 red oak scrap (say 1.5 to 2"
wide) bolted to the sides of the DC base plate, and a couple pieces
fastened across underneath those to make a shallow cradle for the
trash can; bungy cords from the cradle to the trash can handles were
quite sufficient to hold the can on. DC to cyclone was a short hose.
From the cyclone lid I ran hose back past the bags and zip tied it off
there -- so you could drag the whole thing around by the hose. A
single section of 4" hose came off the cyclone and I moved it from
tool to tool. Worked really well for an investment of 20 minutes,
some scrap and a handful of drywall screws. It got kind of old moving
the hose, but it was a cheap and flexible setup. Emptied the can
frequently; bag's filled up very rarely.

Currently thinking about resurrecting somethign similar (new shop
space) but moving to hybrid setup where there would be some hard-piped
sections servicing groups dusty (not chippy) of equipment (router
table, RAS, TS) with blast gates. DC would have a short hose to the
hard pipe, but the planer would still be hooked up by dragging the DC
over to it. I could probably even put the hard-pipe connections in a
noise abatement closet. When the planer runs, the hearing protection
is in place so it should be no big deal to have the DC screaming
too. Hmmm, that might be nice.

hex
-30-

Leon,

If you buy enough flex hose, you can leave the dust collector in it's
normal storage area.

I'm still trying to figure out where I'm gonna store the DC, but it's most
likely going to be in a corner near my breaker panel. That'll make it much
easier to install a dedicated outlet.

2, 10" hosed will reach just about every where and I dont have
to wheel the DC out.

Is there some reason you opted for two ten footers instead of a single 20
footer?

I use a hose union to join the 2 hoses and on the end of the hose I
put a flared female end.

Where did you get your "Flared ends"?

I do not know for sure but the clear is flezable enough. If the black
is like regular shop vac hose, IMHO that would be too stiff.

The black hose I got seems slightly more flexible than shop vac hose
(despite the larger size), but it still wants to return to it's original
shape.

If it would help, I can tale a picture to show you just how simple my
set up is and post on A.B.P.W.

Yes, please, that would be great. It sounds fairly straightforward, but
pics always help with the details, and it's just fun to look at shop pics.


Anthony

go here.. use 6" ducting.. it all makes sense..

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

From the bill pentz site, I adopted thin-wall pvc, sewer & drain, and use
very short runs.. and then using a 2 foot or so chunk of 6" clear flex from
the vendor Bill suggests.

His site is top notch.

Anthony,
Last year I installed a complete cyclone dust collector and duct work. I
used Penn State Industries to design the duct work for me. The spiral
ducting is a little more expensive but when I first turned on this system, I
was totally amazed. I love it and continue to be impressed on how it has
changed my woodworking patterns.

Roger


"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.

PVC is cheap, easy, and widely available, but there seem to be lingering
concerns about safety (fire/explosion). More important to me, I don't want
to get shocked from static build-up. So, I have chosen not to use PVC for
my ducts.

I see that Rockler uses flexible clear duct with a spiral wire inside for
their ducts. However, since this is just another form of plastic, does
anyone know if this will build up static like PVC pipe does? The
corrugated
nature of the pipe seems like it would restrict airflow?

Regular metal snap-lock "Stove Pipe" like you would get at Lowes seems the
next choice, but they don't carry the tee's and other fittings I would
need
for duct work.

"Spiral Metal Duct" sounds like a great alternative, though a bit pricier.
However, I haven't seen an actual price list or online catalog where I
could order this stuff anyway.

Systems like Nordfab and the stuff Grizzly sell are completely out of my
price range. The duct would cost more than my DC!

I want something fairly sturdy, easy to install, and of course priced
within reaches of a mere mortal. So what do you use, and where can I buy
it?

Also, since I'm only using one tool at a time, will 4" pipe be adequate
for
my entire system? I think I'll have about 35 feet of straight line, with
two drops to my tools and the drop going to the DC. My DC only has a 4"
port, so it doesn't seem like using larger pipe would gain me anything.
Maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Anthony

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
Leon,

If you buy enough flex hose, you can leave the dust collector in it's
normal storage area.

I'm still trying to figure out where I'm gonna store the DC, but it's most
likely going to be in a corner near my breaker panel. That'll make it much
easier to install a dedicated outlet.

I am running my Jet straight out of a 15 amp receptical. The load is not
too hogh when using it and the spindle, disk, router, or drill press. When
using the Drum sander the sander is plugged into a seperate 20 amp circuit.
The Saws and planer are 220.





2, 10" hosed will reach just about every where and I dont have
to wheel the DC out.

Is there some reason you opted for two ten footers instead of a single 20
footer?

Absolutely, ;~) Rockler only had 10' lengths on sale.




I use a hose union to join the 2 hoses and on the end of the hose I
put a flared female end.

Where did you get your "Flared ends"?

Rockler


I do not know for sure but the clear is flezable enough. If the black
is like regular shop vac hose, IMHO that would be too stiff.

The black hose I got seems slightly more flexible than shop vac hose
(despite the larger size), but it still wants to return to it's original
shape.

As yo can see form the pics I posted, the clear hose is pretty supple.



If it would help, I can tale a picture to show you just how simple my
set up is and post on A.B.P.W.

Yes, please, that would be great. It sounds fairly straightforward, but
pics always help with the details, and it's just fun to look at shop pics.

3 posted at a.b.p.w.





Anthony

On Nov 28, 10:09 pm, HerHusband wrote:
I just got my new dust collector (1-1/2 HP JDS Dust Force), and have
started researching duct work. I'm just a small garage based do-it-
yourselfer. I will never use more than one tool at a time.


I used the duct work at home depot. They have two grades, and I used
the thicker one. Works fine, never collapsed or even came close.

You can see pics here

http://www.areddy.net/wood/workshop.html

For the Ys, I broke out some special CAD software I bought and created
templates that I used to cut out the appropriate shaped pieces from
ductwork and taped them together. I offered selling those templates
on Ebay for a while, but no bites. If you're interested, let me
know. The templates were basically the cost of 1 consumer Y fitting,
and you can obviously make as many as you want.

IMO, the expensive stuff is WAAAYY overkill for the home woodworker.

"hex" wrote in message
...
Snip


When the planer runs, the hearing protection
is in place so it should be no big deal to have the DC screaming
too. Hmmm, that might be nice.


Oddly my stationary planer is not real loud running unloaded. The DC is not
at all loud used by it self. Both used together and the planer unloaded the
noise is magnified greatly. Hearing protection is a must.

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 10:08:41 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"hex" wrote in message
...
Snip


When the planer runs, the hearing protection
is in place so it should be no big deal to have the DC screaming
too. Hmmm, that might be nice.


Oddly my stationary planer is not real loud running unloaded. The DC is not
at all loud used by it self. Both used together and the planer unloaded the
noise is magnified greatly. Hearing protection is a must.

What did you say??


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Leon,

I am running my Jet straight out of a 15 amp receptical.

My JDC DC says it takes 16 Amps, probably more starting up. I currently
have it on a 20 amp circuit that runs down one side of my garage. For now
I can plug my tools into the 20 amp circuit running down the other side
of the garage, but I'll probably put in a dedicated outlet for the DC
once I know for sure where I'm going to keep it. It will be real easy if
I place it near my breaker panel where I'm thinking.

Is there some reason you opted for two ten footers instead of a
single 20 footer?
Absolutely, ;~) Rockler only had 10' lengths on sale.

Makes sense, though with the cost of the connector and clamps, did you
really come out ahead?

Where did you get your "Flared ends"?
Rockler

Have you had any problems with them coming disconnected from your tools?
I've read some reviews on various quick disconnects, and it sounds like
they have a nasty habit of not staying hooked up.

The port on my Grizzly bandsaw would concern me the most, as it's cast
into the metal of the machine.

the clear hose is pretty supple.

Yep, looks like it. I'll probably have to order some clear hose.

3 posted at a.b.p.w.

Thanks for the pics! I appreciate it.

By the way, my DC has a "Wye" fitting on it with two 4" dust ports. Have
you tried using both ports at the same time (without closing off the
other hose)? I tend to go back and forth between my planer and tablesaw a
lot, so it would be nice to hook up two hoses and avoid the swapping if
possible. Probably not possible with a 1-1/2 HP DC eh?

I'm thinking of picking up one of those tablesaw dust hoods to mount
under my cheapie Craftsman tablesaw. But if it works the way I think it
does, I thought I might attach a short "stub" of hose and a connector to
make it a bit easier to attach and remove the hose (rather than reaching
up under the saw).

Anthony

"mac davis" wrote in message
...


Oddly my stationary planer is not real loud running unloaded. The DC is
not
at all loud used by it self. Both used together and the planer unloaded
the
noise is magnified greatly. Hearing protection is a must.

What did you say??


HUhhhh? whut?

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
Leon,

I am running my Jet straight out of a 15 amp receptical.

My JDC DC says it takes 16 Amps, probably more starting up. I currently
have it on a 20 amp circuit that runs down one side of my garage. For now
I can plug my tools into the 20 amp circuit running down the other side
of the garage, but I'll probably put in a dedicated outlet for the DC
once I know for sure where I'm going to keep it. It will be real easy if
I place it near my breaker panel where I'm thinking.

Is there some reason you opted for two ten footers instead of a
single 20 footer?
Absolutely, ;~) Rockler only had 10' lengths on sale.

Makes sense, though with the cost of the connector and clamps, did you
really come out ahead?

The hoses were normally $20 each, I got both for $10 each and the 2 clamps
and connector was about $3. I was about $17 ahead.



Where did you get your "Flared ends"?
Rockler

Have you had any problems with them coming disconnected from your tools?
I've read some reviews on various quick disconnects, and it sounds like
they have a nasty habit of not staying hooked up.

The port on my Grizzly bandsaw would concern me the most, as it's cast
into the metal of the machine.

The connectors on my saws are steel the planer and sander are plastic. None
of them are tapered or if they are I have never noticed. There is no
problem having the hose stay on except some times the nose will come off of
the sander if I open the sander up with the hose connected. A goo tight
push is all it really takes. Remember that the hose naturally has a
tendency to stay on as there is a vacuum inside. I do not recall a hose
ever coming off when in use.




the clear hose is pretty supple.

Yep, looks like it. I'll probably have to order some clear hose.

3 posted at a.b.p.w.

Thanks for the pics! I appreciate it.

By the way, my DC has a "Wye" fitting on it with two 4" dust ports. Have
you tried using both ports at the same time (without closing off the
other hose)? I tend to go back and forth between my planer and tablesaw a
lot, so it would be nice to hook up two hoses and avoid the swapping if
possible. Probably not possible with a 1-1/2 HP DC eh?

Mine also has the 2 "Y". No I have never used 2 at once, one satys plugged.



I'm thinking of picking up one of those tablesaw dust hoods to mount
under my cheapie Craftsman tablesaw. But if it works the way I think it
does, I thought I might attach a short "stub" of hose and a connector to
make it a bit easier to attach and remove the hose (rather than reaching
up under the saw).

Something is better than nothing but I am not sure any TS captures it all.
I always have a small pile inside and under my cabinet saw but the DC gets
90% and I do not have to scoop the saw dust out of the TS any more, thank
goodness. The TS still will throw dust up on top and especially if the
blade is exposed on a cut where you are removing less than 1/8" on a rip.

Leon,

The connectors on my saws are steel the planer and sander are plastic.
None of them are tapered or if they are I have never noticed.
There is no problem having the hose stay on

Good to know, thanks. Maybe I'll order some and give them a try.

Something is better than nothing but I am not sure any TS captures it
all. I always have a small pile inside and under my cabinet saw but
the DC gets 90% and I do not have to scoop the saw dust out of the TS
any more, thank goodness. The TS still will throw dust up on top and
especially if the blade is exposed on a cut where you are removing
less than 1/8" on a rip.

Well, right now I get a spray of dust about 4-5 feet behind the saw, all
over the top, and a significant pile that builds up under the saw and the
cart I use as an outfeed table. Just keeping the pile off the floor would
be nice, anything more would just be a bonus...

Like I said, I haven't even hooked the DC to a tool yet. I've only sucked
up some dust around my saw and turned it on to watch the dust swirl around
inside the bag! That's worth $300 all by itself! I'm putting the
finish on some cabinets right now, so I can't kick up dust for a few days.

Anthony