First I will admit that I am perplexed. To date, I have developed a
very good finishing technique applying polyurethane. First I brush on
two 10% thinned coats, sanding to 220 grit after the first coat and
then to 400-600 after the second. The thinning really allows the poly
to flow and fill any minor imperfections. Then I wipe on two or more
coats using a wiping poly (which is nothing more than 3 parts thinner
to 2 parts poly). The final "wiped on" poly gives me a very smooth
finish with no "nibs" and no need for further polishing. The problem
with poly (that I use) is that it imparts an amber tone to the wood,
which for cherry, walnut or darker woods is not a problem, but for
maple, especially birds-eye maple, I don't like it so much.


So I am looking to switch to a clearer finish that does not impart
this amber tone.

My preference:
I really prefer to stick with a brushable finish with wipe-on
capability. I don't have a quality sprayer and I don't have a good
area to spray in. And the finish I get using the previously described
technique is quick and, man, do I get the positive comments. I would
like to avoid polishing (with Rottenstone or pumice suspended in
paraffin oil), just because I don't like polishing - it's a little
messy and tough to remove all the polish from the finished piece.

What will give me a clear (not amber) finish that I can apply much in
the same way as I described above?

thanks........russ

The only suggestion I have would be water based over oil based.

"Russ" wrote in message
...
First I will admit that I am perplexed. To date, I have developed a
very good finishing technique applying polyurethane. First I brush on
two 10% thinned coats, sanding to 220 grit after the first coat and
then to 400-600 after the second. The thinning really allows the poly
to flow and fill any minor imperfections. Then I wipe on two or more
coats using a wiping poly (which is nothing more than 3 parts thinner
to 2 parts poly). The final "wiped on" poly gives me a very smooth
finish with no "nibs" and no need for further polishing. The problem
with poly (that I use) is that it imparts an amber tone to the wood,
which for cherry, walnut or darker woods is not a problem, but for
maple, especially birds-eye maple, I don't like it so much.


So I am looking to switch to a clearer finish that does not impart
this amber tone.

My preference:
I really prefer to stick with a brushable finish with wipe-on
capability. I don't have a quality sprayer and I don't have a good
area to spray in. And the finish I get using the previously described
technique is quick and, man, do I get the positive comments. I would
like to avoid polishing (with Rottenstone or pumice suspended in
paraffin oil), just because I don't like polishing - it's a little
messy and tough to remove all the polish from the finished piece.

What will give me a clear (not amber) finish that I can apply much in
the same way as I described above?

thanks........russ

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:30:54 -0800 (PST), Russ
wrote:

So I am looking to switch to a clearer finish that does not impart
this amber tone.

My preference:
I really prefer to stick with a brushable finish with wipe-on
capability. I don't have a quality sprayer and I don't have a good
area to spray in.

Be aware that a "good area to spray in" is way different with water
base. There's no explosion hazard, so all you need is a window fan
and a good respirator. In reality, you should also be wearing the
respirator with the brushed and wiped on oil based finishes... G

My first sprayed M.L. Campbell Ultrastar finishes were with a $75
Harbor Freight HVLP kit. They came out great.

I have applied Ultrastar with foam brushes to *small* items, but you
have to be very careful on medium and large parts, as it dries FAST!

On Nov 27, 6:30 pm, Russ wrote:
First I will admit that I am perplexed. To date, I have developed a
very good finishing technique applying polyurethane. First I brush on
two 10% thinned coats, sanding to 220 grit after the first coat and
then to 400-600 after the second. The thinning really allows the poly
to flow and fill any minor imperfections. Then I wipe on two or more
coats using a wiping poly (which is nothing more than 3 parts thinner
to 2 parts poly). The final "wiped on" poly gives me a very smooth
finish with no "nibs" and no need for further polishing. The problem
with poly (that I use) is that it imparts an amber tone to the wood,
which for cherry, walnut or darker woods is not a problem, but for
maple, especially birds-eye maple, I don't like it so much.

So I am looking to switch to a clearer finish that does not impart
this amber tone.

My preference:
I really prefer to stick with a brushable finish with wipe-on
capability. I don't have a quality sprayer and I don't have a good
area to spray in. And the finish I get using the previously described
technique is quick and, man, do I get the positive comments. I would
like to avoid polishing (with Rottenstone or pumice suspended in
paraffin oil), just because I don't like polishing - it's a little
messy and tough to remove all the polish from the finished piece.

What will give me a clear (not amber) finish that I can apply much in
the same way as I described above?

thanks........russ

Shellac.

On Nov 27, 10:07 pm, John Horner wrote:
Russ wrote:

What will give me a clear (not amber)finishthat I can apply much in

the same way as I described above?

Water based polyurethanes sound like just the ticket for you.
Personally I spray them, but some are likely brushable as well.

I would buy quarts of each of several brands and experiment. Water is
used as a thinning agent, but sparingly. You might find that you
really enjoy the much less pungent fumes and the much faster drying
time. A big advantage of the faster drying time is that there is less
opportunity for dust to attach itself to thefinish.

Now that I have gotten over my fear of flying wrt water based finishes I
don't plan to go back! There are even some which are available with a
slight amber tint to reproduce the look of oil based finishes, but I
have come to really like a true clearfinish. Stain the wood underneath
if you wish to have a tone to it, then put clear on the top. Personally
I rarely use stain as I prefer to get the color I want through my choice
of wood.

John

Thanks to alll that wrote in. So, if I take the plunge and start
spraying a water-borne finish, what system do you guys recommend? I
don't want to go overboard here, but my guess is that cheap Harbor
Freight stuff won't get it done. So, what will get it done for a
moderate cost? .........russ

Tue, Nov 27, 2007, 3:30pm (EST-3) (Russ) doth
queryeth:
snip What will give me a clear (not amber) finish that I can apply
much in the same way as I described above?

I've not done a lot of 'speerminting so far, but Elmers, thinned
50/50, seems to give a pretty clear finish. Titebond II, which I
prefer, gives a slightly tinted finish. I've been using my right index
finger to apply it on my test pieces.



JOAT
Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

Russ wrote:


Thanks to alll that wrote in. So, if I take the plunge and start
spraying a water-borne finish, what system do you guys recommend? I
don't want to go overboard here, but my guess is that cheap Harbor
Freight stuff won't get it done. So, what will get it done for a
moderate cost? .........russ

I'm using a Wagner dedicated HVLP system. Not HF cheap, but also not
Apollo expensive. Works great for me.

This is the one I am using:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Product...6358873&sr=8-4