I'm putting the finish on some Maple tables and tried something new
that is working well. The tables were stained with water-based stain
then I started putting the Varnish on. I thinned the Varnish 2:1 with
Mineral Spirits and wiped on with rag. After the third coat dried,
instead of using steel wool, I decided to scrape the imperfections and
dust nibs off.

I used a single edge razor blade in a holder to scrape the surface by
holding it about 20deg from vertical and dragging across the piece.
This worked surprising well and didn't go through and scratch the wood
or the stain. Some thicker areas and drips on the underside came
right off with no problem. I did get a few spots that looked grey
(mostly on the end grain) probably because the finish hadn't competey
cured but the next coat cleaned that up. I am letting each coat dry
for 24 hours before apply the next coat. I will probably end up with
eight coats on the tops and five on the legs and aprons. I decided to
try this since the last project like this I went through the finish
and ruined the stain when using steel wool between coats since the
stain barely penetrates the Maple, if at all.

Anyone else try this method between coats?

How long should I let the final coat cure before I try buffing it with
0000 steel wool?

Any recommendations for buffing the final coat once cured?

I also considered using wet-dry paper and Mineral Spirits between
coats but decided against it.

Anyone else try this method between coats?

Yes, but I use a cabinet (card) scraper. IMO it is the most effective way to
remove the high spots without effecting the flat areas. Some times I'll
follow with a very light tough with sand paper

How long should I let the final coat cure before I try buffing it with
0000 steel wool?

I try to wait a week.

-Steve


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"Stephen M" wrote:


Anyone else try this method between coats?

Yes, but I use a cabinet (card) scraper. IMO it is the most effective way to
remove the high spots without effecting the flat areas.
Actually, I find a card scraper with a well-turned bur to be a good
way to effect flat areas, since you can scrape off the drips without
affecting the surrounding area. g

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Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

I've used a cabinet scraper on poly with good results.
My daughter needed a portable easel to take to class with her and
she gave me the dimensions. I made it out of 1/2" birch ply and
used poly for it's durability. After the first coat I could see some
rather coarse planer marks, waves really, across the surface. Not
wanting to sand it I figured I'd try the scraper. It worked great.
After 5 coats, with light scraping between each, I had a perfectly
flat surface. Wet sanding (with water and a sanding block) thru
600 grit, then some paste wax left the surface as smooth as glass.
Be sure to get a fresh fine burr on your scraper for best results.
Art


"RayV" wrote in message
...
I'm putting the finish on some Maple tables and tried something new
that is working well. The tables were stained with water-based stain
then I started putting the Varnish on. I thinned the Varnish 2:1 with
Mineral Spirits and wiped on with rag. After the third coat dried,
instead of using steel wool, I decided to scrape the imperfections and
dust nibs off.

I used a single edge razor blade in a holder to scrape the surface by
holding it about 20deg from vertical and dragging across the piece.
This worked surprising well and didn't go through and scratch the wood
or the stain. Some thicker areas and drips on the underside came
right off with no problem. I did get a few spots that looked grey
(mostly on the end grain) probably because the finish hadn't competey
cured but the next coat cleaned that up. I am letting each coat dry
for 24 hours before apply the next coat. I will probably end up with
eight coats on the tops and five on the legs and aprons. I decided to
try this since the last project like this I went through the finish
and ruined the stain when using steel wool between coats since the
stain barely penetrates the Maple, if at all.

Anyone else try this method between coats?

How long should I let the final coat cure before I try buffing it with
0000 steel wool?

Any recommendations for buffing the final coat once cured?

I also considered using wet-dry paper and Mineral Spirits between
coats but decided against it.