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#1
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Drill a tapered hole
I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree
taper, small end 2.2". I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but the travel is too short. I would have to stop and reposition the tool holder with the chance for error too much. I did a lot of web searching to no avail. The tapered drills and reamers are simply too small. Any ideas? Thanks Bob AZ |
#2
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Drill a tapered hole
On Nov 24, 9:16 pm, Bob AZ wrote:
I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree taper, small end 2.2". I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but the travel is too short. I would have to stop and reposition the tool holder with the chance for error too much. I did a lot of web searching to no avail. The tapered drills and reamers are simply too small. Any ideas? Thanks Bob AZ build yourself a tapered reamer. shop built tapered reamers are pretty much standard operating procedure for woodwind instruments. basically a scraper blade let into a tapered wood plug. first you drill a series of straight holes, then you ream the taper. |
#3
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Drill a tapered hole
I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree taper, small end 2.2". {snip} build yourself a tapered reamer. shop built tapered reamers are pretty much standard operating procedure for woodwind instruments. basically a scraper blade let into a tapered wood plug. first you drill a series of straight holes, then you ream the taper.. I was thinking of a Morse taper socket reamer, or a Jacobs taper, but then re-looked at the size and length you wanted... I agree, you will need to build (make? design?) your own tool. Of course, the whole subject of making a scraper tool your self isn't exactly average person common knowledge. Phil |
#4
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Drill a tapered hole
On Nov 24, 8:16 pm, Bob AZ wrote:
I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree taper, small end 2.2". I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but the travel is too short. If your metal working lathe has a suitable taper attachment, you can bore that conical hole. You might want to custom-build a boring bar from 2" OD pipe, but it's only wood, the boring bar won't take high stress. |
#5
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Drill a tapered hole
If you have a metal working lathe, why not make one? An
appropriate block of aluminum, brass, bronze, or steel would be adequate. Cut the taper you need, but small enough to install a slot for a single edge cutter. It can be as simple as a piece of file, saw blade, old plane iron, whatever. Set it deep enough to have a set screw to hold the blade. You don't need much of it other than the bevel out to cut, a bit like a plane iron. It will require cutting a straight sided lead hole to start in. You never said what kind of taper you're looking for. Ridgid makes a pipe reamer that would cut wood and give you a taper, though it might be more than you want http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Pipe-Reamers2/EN/index.htm -- ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) "Bob AZ" wrote in message ... I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree taper, small end 2.2". I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but the travel is too short. I would have to stop and reposition the tool holder with the chance for error too much. I did a lot of web searching to no avail. The tapered drills and reamers are simply too small. Any ideas? Thanks Bob AZ |
#6
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Drill a tapered hole
On Nov 25, 7:04 pm, whit3rd wrote:
On Nov 24, 8:16 pm, Bob AZ wrote: I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree taper, small end 2.2". I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but the travel is too short. If your metal working lathe has a suitable taper attachment, you can bore that conical hole. You might want to custom-build a boring bar from 2" OD pipe, but it's only wood, the boring bar won't take high stress. Boring is certainly the way to go. Turning a taper reamer, or a taper drill bit, 10" long - even in wood - will take quite a bit of force. John Martin |
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