I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get. But after that I'm not positive. I use my bullnose rabbet plane
quite a bit, and lately I've broken out a side rabbet plane on a few
different occasions. What I'm getting at is this - if you use a
powered planer, jointer and saws, and a wide belt sander to boot,
smoothers, jacks and jointers aren't totally necessary. But say your
grooves don't line up exactly at the bottom of a drawer - tough to
make right without a side rabbet plane. Hmmm...I've run out of
material for now, and swmbo is calling. Further bulletins as events
warrant.

JP
******************
Distracted.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get.


It is the one I use the most. Consider the Lee Valley apron plane too.

On Wed, 31 Oct 2007 01:38:48 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

Consider the Lee Valley apron plane too.

I wouldn't go for that one - it's a great plane, but spend the extra and
get the low-angle with the adjustable mouth. It's even more plane.

Jay Pique wrote:
I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get. But after that I'm not positive. I use my bullnose rabbet plane
quite a bit, and lately I've broken out a side rabbet plane on a few
different occasions. What I'm getting at is this - if you use a
powered planer, jointer and saws, and a wide belt sander to boot,
smoothers, jacks and jointers aren't totally necessary. But say your
grooves don't line up exactly at the bottom of a drawer - tough to
make right without a side rabbet plane. Hmmm...I've run out of
material for now, and swmbo is calling. Further bulletins as events
warrant.

JP
******************
Distracted.


I don't have a planer, so I use hand
planes for everything. I'm not
recommending that - that's just where I am.

I agree with the block plane. I use mine
constantly. Another plane I found
surprising in the amount of use it gets
is my shoulder plane.

I picked up mine from LV more on a whim
than anything else, and found I used it
much more often than I'd anticipated.
Part of that is because it's Veritas,
but the other part is that it comes in
handy for paring dadoes and such that no
other tool could fix so elegantly.
--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/

"Jay Pique" wrote

I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get. But after that I'm not positive.

A block plane is really too puny to serve as a general-purpose bench plane.

Go for a Record, or similar, Jack, failing this, a smoother that you can get
some weight behing.

Jeff

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

"GarageWoodworks" .@. wrote in message


I only buy hand planes when I really need them. So far I don't own any.
G

Sort of like sex is great by myself, no need for women. You're missing a
great tool.

Jay Pique wrote:
What I'm getting at is this - if you use a
powered planer, jointer and saws, and a wide belt sander to boot,
smoothers, jacks and jointers aren't totally necessary.

I have a thickness planer, DJ-20, and Performax 22/44 sander.

The planes I use on a regular basis, listed by frequency of use:

Low angle block
Medium shoulder
Spokeshaves (almost always to clean up band sawn patterns for routing)
#4
Cabinet scraper
#7 (almost always on items that are too cumbersome for the jointer)

I almost never use my #5, large shoulder, or bullnose planes.

Planes that get a bunch of use away from the shop:
#7
All blocks & my LV apron plane.

On 31 Oct, 08:16, "Jeff Gorman" wrote:

A block plane is really too puny to serve as a general-purpose bench plane.

I'd disagree. Certainly for a hand-working traditionalist, the place
to start is a #5 jack.

However many people are so deafened by their powered routers that they
think "they don't need _any_ planes". These people would be very well
served by getting a good block plane as their first and probably only
plane. Perhaps it's not "a general-purpose bench plane", but it would
work well as the sole plane for someone who mainly works man-made
boards with power tools.

I only buy hand planes when I really need them. So far I don't own any.
G

Sort of like sex is great by myself, no need for women. You're missing a
great tool.

HA! That's good. And how true! Planing by hand can be such a fun
and even relaxing experience.
Right now I don't have the money or space for a full complement of
powered tools, so I do a lot with hand planes. But I've really gotten
to enjoy them! You can really feel what's going on with the wood, and
they leave such a nice surface - often there's just something about a
planed surface that seems brighter or clearer than a sanded one... I
work wood because I enjoy the process, and as a side benefit, once in
a while I turn out something that's functional and beautiful. Hand
planes are an enjoyable and integral part of that process for me! But
even if your only goal in woodworking is speed and efficiency, a hand
plane is often a quicker and more precise tool to make a small
adjustment, compared to sandpaper or powered tools.

To answer the OP's question, my most-used planes (roughly in order)
a
LN low-angle block
LV Bevel-Up smoother with swap-able low and high angle blades
Steve Knight razee jack
tiny "thumb" plane (unknown brand) about like a Stanley 100 or the LV
"Little Victor"
Sargent 424 jointer (Stanley #8-equivalent)
homemade scrub (converted from cheapo smooth plane)
LV Med Shoulder (not used frequently, but essential whenever I'm
fitting M&T joints!)

Note - I haven't had the LV BU smoother very long, but the versatility
of that plane, and the way it feels on wood, are really amazing - that
would definitely be on my short list of planes to keep if I had to get
rid of most of them (for some horrible reason). Depending on the kind
of work you do, this could definitely be an excellent choice as a
"first plane." Definitely a worthwhile investment, IMHO!

You probably already know this, but whatever plane you get, be sure to
factor a good sharpening system into your budget - I like the LV Mk.II
jig with a Norton 1000/8000 waterstone, but the little "eclipse"-style
jig (~$10) and sandpaper on a chunk of granite would do well also.

Hope this helps,
Andy

Get them all.......have over 100 and use them all every thing from a 24"
joiner to a 1" finger plus specialty planes.
Many times it is faster to grab a plane than to set up a power tool. All of
mine are old stanley or bailey planes.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get. But after that I'm not positive. I use my bullnose rabbet plane
quite a bit, and lately I've broken out a side rabbet plane on a few
different occasions. What I'm getting at is this - if you use a
powered planer, jointer and saws, and a wide belt sander to boot,
smoothers, jacks and jointers aren't totally necessary. But say your
grooves don't line up exactly at the bottom of a drawer - tough to
make right without a side rabbet plane. Hmmm...I've run out of
material for now, and swmbo is calling. Further bulletins as events
warrant.

JP
******************
Distracted.

On Oct 30, 9:38 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote in message

ps.com...

I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get.

It is the one I use the most. Consider the Lee Valley apron plane too.

I've got the LV low angle block, and a small LN bronze block plane.
Excellent planes, the both.
JP

On Oct 31, 4:16 am, "Jeff Gorman" wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote

I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be
acquiring. I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly
occasions when a plane is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. I
pretty much have to agree that a good block plane is the first one to
get. But after that I'm not positive.

A block plane is really too puny to serve as a general-purpose bench plane.

Go for a Record, or similar, Jack, failing this, a smoother that you can get
some weight behing.

I agree with you to a certain extent. It's definitely nice to have a
tote sometimes. But I don't really do a lot of smoothing or jointing
by hand. If it's a question of a block or bench for your *first*
plane, I'd say go with the block. More control, IMO.

JP
*************************************************
And for end grain, a tote is definitely nice.

On Oct 31, 1:38 pm, Andy wrote:
I only buy hand planes when I really need them. So far I don't own any.
G

Sort of like sex is great by myself, no need for women. You're missing a
great tool.

HA! That's good. And how true! Planing by hand can be such a fun
and even relaxing experience.
Right now I don't have the money or space for a full complement of
powered tools, so I do a lot with hand planes. But I've really gotten
to enjoy them! You can really feel what's going on with the wood, and
they leave such a nice surface - often there's just something about a
planed surface that seems brighter or clearer than a sanded one...

Oh without a doubt. I did a few comparisons with walnut sanded to 220
versus a sharp plane, and it's so completely different looking.

I
work wood because I enjoy the process, and as a side benefit, once in
a while I turn out something that's functional and beautiful. Hand
planes are an enjoyable and integral part of that process for me! But
even if your only goal in woodworking is speed and efficiency, a hand
plane is often a quicker and more precise tool to make a small
adjustment, compared to sandpaper or powered tools.

I work wood for work and because I enjoy the process (although I must
say, it's much more enjoyable when it's not for work!) And I agree
that a sharp plane can be the best and fastest tool in many cases. I
made a mantle from a large beam of reclaimed Doug Fir just recently,
and there were a couple of beveled cuts that were too big for any of
our saws, so I bandsawed them. To clean this up I could have used a
beltsander or even a dynabrade, but it just wouldn't have been as true
as quickly as using a bench plane. (A Stanley #4.) That was the best
tool for that job IMO.

To answer the OP's question, my most-used planes (roughly in order)
a
LN low-angle block
LV Bevel-Up smoother with swap-able low and high angle blades
Steve Knight razee jack
tiny "thumb" plane (unknown brand) about like a Stanley 100 or the LV
"Little Victor"
Sargent 424 jointer (Stanley #8-equivalent)
homemade scrub (converted from cheapo smooth plane)
LV Med Shoulder (not used frequently, but essential whenever I'm
fitting M&T joints!)

Note - I haven't had the LV BU smoother very long, but the versatility
of that plane, and the way it feels on wood, are really amazing - that
would definitely be on my short list of planes to keep if I had to get
rid of most of them (for some horrible reason). Depending on the kind
of work you do, this could definitely be an excellent choice as a
"first plane." Definitely a worthwhile investment, IMHO!

That's on the list...along with all the others. I've got the LV LA
block (adj. mouth), the LN small bronze block, the aforementioned
Stanley, the LV bullnose rabbet plane and an old unmarked wooden
jointer that desperately needs a more appreciative owner. I'm
planning on an iron jointer at some point. I borrow others that I
need at work. The fettling on some of those borrowed really makes me
want my own!

You probably already know this, but whatever plane you get, be sure to
factor a good sharpening system into your budget - I like the LV Mk.II
jig with a Norton 1000/8000 waterstone, but the little "eclipse"-style
jig (~$10) and sandpaper on a chunk of granite would do well also.

I use the Mk.II with paper on a granite surfacing plate. I take them
up to 2000grit (back and front) and that seems to do the trick. I
really like that jig. I'm not sold on the paper/granite method, but
I've also got the Norton stones and I'm not sold on those either.
Soon I'll get that new DMT stone that's said to be like an 8k
waterstone. Even if it's not all that for blades, it'll be great for
carbide I'm sure.

JP

Tue, Oct 30, 2007, 6:15pm (EDT-3) (Jay*Pique)
doth saeth:
I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be acquiring.
I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly occasions when a plane
is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. snip

Normite? No brainer - hand power plane.



JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax

I highly advocate Lee Valley-Veritas or Lie Nielsen planes, very pricey,
but once you use one you will never want to touch a Stanley again!!

On Thu, 1 Nov 2007 10:33:11 -0400, (J T) wrote:

Tue, Oct 30, 2007, 6:15pm (EDT-3) (Jay*Pique)
doth saeth:
I'm starting to wonder about the type of planes I should be acquiring.
I'm definitely a normite, but there are certainly occasions when a plane
is the best (and quickest) tool for the job. snip

Normite? No brainer - hand power plane.



JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax