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Default Bird House Plans Needed......pls

hi all,

I've just spent 7 weeks in the hospital, and was looking forward to
building some birdhouses as as means of therapeutic value, as well as
help our feathered friends along for the winter. Is there anyone out
there that may have some simple plans/drawings that they could share.
I'd like to keep the design simple if possible, however i'd love to
attract as many birds as i can (the cardinal especially)

Thanks for any help
.....Giuseppe

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Default Bird House Plans Needed......pls

On Oct 13, 12:56 am, alfalfa wrote:
hi all,

I've just spent 7 weeks in the hospital, and was looking forward to
building some birdhouses as as means of therapeutic value, as well as
help our feathered friends along for the winter. Is there anyone out
there that may have some simple plans/drawings that they could share.
I'd like to keep the design simple if possible, however i'd love to
attract as many birds as i can (the cardinal especially)

Thanks for any help
....Giuseppe


Cardinals don't use nesting houses that I know of, at least not in
cold areas.

Do a Google search on "birdhouse plans" or "simple birdhouse plans" or
check and see if Dover has actually released my latest birdhouse book.
That is mostly simple plans. Sterling also offers three of my
birdhouse books, two of which have simple plans. The plans you'll find
on Google, though, are often free. The books aren't.

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Default Bird House Plans Needed......pls

"alfalfa" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

I've just spent 7 weeks in the hospital, and was looking forward to
building some birdhouses as as means of therapeutic value, as well as
help our feathered friends along for the winter. Is there anyone out
there that may have some simple plans/drawings that they could share.
I'd like to keep the design simple if possible, however i'd love to
attract as many birds as i can (the cardinal especially)

Thanks for any help
....Giuseppe


Here's some info I collected a while back. Plans are a dime a dozen,
just Google for them, then modify the dimensions to suit the species
you want to attract.
Art

BIRDS YOU CAN ATTRACT TO NEST BOXES

Many of the birds that visit feeders and baths may stay and nest in nearby trees.
Most of them, including cardinals, doves and orioles, don't nest in boxes. You can
still help them by considering their food and shelter requirements in your landscape
plans. You can also hang out a wire cage full of nesting materials (fiber scraps,
twigs, wool, or feathers) in the spring.
More than two dozen North American birds will nest in bird houses. The following
descriptions will help you determine which birds might visit your neighborhood.

Bluebirds
If you put up a bluebird house near an old field, orchard, park, cemetery, or golf
course, you'll have a good chance of attracting a pair of bluebirds. They prefer nest
boxes on a tree stump or wooden fence post between three and five feet high.
Bluebirds also nest in abandoned woodpecker nest holes. The most important
measurement is the hole diameter. An inch and a half is small enough to deter
starlings. Starlings and house sparrows have been known to kill baby bluebirds as
well as adults sitting on the nest.
Bluebirds have problems with other animals too. The easiest way to discourage
predatory cats, snakes, raccoons, and chipmunks is to mount the house on a metal
pole, or use a metal predator guard on a wood post.

Robins
Robins are our largest thrushes. They prefer to build their nest in the crotch of a
tree. If you don't have an appropriate tree, you can offer a nesting platform. Pick a
spot six feet or higher up on a shaded tree trunk or under the overhang of a shed or
porch. Creating a "mud puddle" nearby offers further excitement, as robins use mud to
line their nests.
Chickadees, Nuthatches, and Titmice
Chickadees, titmice, and nuthatches share the same food, feeders, and habitats. If
you put a properly designed nest box in a wooded yard, at least one pair is sure to
check it out.
Put chickadee houses at eye level. Hang them from limbs or secure them to tree
trunks. The entrance hole should be 1-1/8" to attract chickadees yet exclude house
sparrows.

Anchor houses for hatches on tree trunks five to six feet off the ground.

You can encourage these birds to stay in your yard by continuing to fill your suet
and peanut feeders through the summer.

Brown Creepers and Prothonotary Warblers
Look for brown creepers to nest behind the curved bark of tree trunks. In heavily
wooded yards, slab bark houses will appeal to creepers. Prothonotary warblers also
prefer slab bark houses, but theirs must be placed over water.
Wrens
Wrens don't seem to be very picky about where they nest. Try nest boxes with a 1" x
2" horizontal slot (1-1/2" x 2-1/2" for the larger Carolina wrens) instead of a
circle. These are easier for the wrens to use.
Wrens are notorious for filling up any conceivable nest cavity with twigs, regardless
of whether they use the nest. Since male house wrens build several nests for the
female to choose from, hang several nest boxes at eye level on partly sunlit tree
limbs. Wrens are sociable and will accept nest boxes quite close to your house.

Tree and Violet-green Swallows
Tree swallows prefer nest boxes attached to dead trees. Space the boxes about seven
feet apart for these white-bellied birds with iridescent blue-green backs and wings.
The ideal setting for these insect-eaters is on the edge of a field near a lake,
pond, or river.
Violet-green swallows nest in forested mountains of the west; boxes placed on large
trees in a semi-open woodland will attract them.

Barn Swallows and Phoebes
If you have the right habitat, barn swallows and phoebes are easy to attract. It's
their nesting behavior, not their plumage or song, that catches your attention. These
birds tend to nest where you'd rather not have them: on a ledge right over your front
door. To avoid a mess by your door, offer the birds a nesting shelf nearby where
you'd rather have them.
Purple Martins
Many people want martins because, it's been said, these birds "can eat 2,000
mosquitoes a day." While it's true that they eat flying insects, don't expect purple
martins to wipe out your mosquitoes. Martins actually prefer dragonflies, insects
which prey on mosquito larvae.
Mosquitoes are most active after sunset. If you want to rid your yard of mosquitoes,
put up a bat roosting box. One bat can eat thousands of mosquitoes a night.

But don't cross martins off your prospective tenant list because they don't live up
to their "bug zapping" reputation. If you need a reason for attracting them, these
gregarious swallows put on a show that's better than any television soap opera.

You have the best chance of attracting martins if you put a house on the edge of a
pond or river, surrounded by a field or lawn. Martins need a radius of about 40 feet
of unobstructed flying space around their houses. A convenient wire nearby gives them
a place to perch in sociable groups.

Martins nest in groups, so you'll need a house with a minimum of four large rooms --
6 or more inches on all sides, with a 2-1/4 inch entrance hole about an inch and a
half above the floor.

Ventilation and drainage are critical factors in martin house design. Porches,
railings, porch dividers and supplemental roof perches, like a TV antenna, will make
any house more appealing.

Gourds may also be made into houses by making an entrance hole and providing
drainage. If you use gourds, it's not necessary to add railings and perches. Adult
martins will perch on the wire used to hang the houses.

Before you decide on a house, take the time to think about what kind of pole you're
going to put it on. Martins will occupy a house that's between ten and twenty feet
off the ground. Some poles are less cumbersome than others.

Gourd houses are the easiest to set up. You can string them:

from a wire between two poles
from a sectional aluminum pole
on pulleys mounted to cross-bar high up on a pole.
Light-weight aluminum houses can be mounted on telescoping poles, providing easy
access for maintenance and inspection. Because of their weight (well over 30 pounds),
wood houses cannot be mounted on easy-access telescoping poles. You'll have to use a
sturdy metal or wood pole attached to a pivot post. The problem with this "lowering"
technique is that you can't tilt the house without damaging the nests inside. If you
put your house on a shorter, fixed pole, ten to twelve feet high, you can use a
ladder to inspect and maintain it.
Flycatchers
The great crested flycatcher and its western cousin, the ash-throated flycatcher, are
common in wooded suburbs. Their natural nesting sites are abandoned woodpecker holes.
These flycatchers may nest in a bird house if it's placed about ten feet up in a tree
in an orchard or at the edge of a field or stream.

Woodpeckers
You can attract all the woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but only the flicker and the
red-bellied are likely to use a bird house. They prefer a box with roughened interior
and a floor covered with a two-inch layer of wood chips or coarse sawdust. Flickers
are especially attracted to nest boxes filled with sawdust, which they "excavate" to
suit themselves.
For best results, place the box high up on a tree trunk exposed to direct sunlight.

Owls
Most owls seldom build their own nests. Great horned and long-eared owls prefer
abandoned crow and hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn, saw-whet, boreal and
screech) nest in tree cavities and bird houses.
Barn owls are best known for selecting nesting sites near farms. Where trees are
sparse, these birds will nest in church steeples, silos, and barns. If you live near
a farm or a golf course, try fastening a nest box about 15 feet up on a tree trunk.

Screech owls prefer abandoned woodpecker holes at the edge of a field or neglected
orchard. They will readily take to a boxes lined with an inch or two of wood
shavings. If you clean the box out in late spring after the young owls have fledged,
you may attract a second tenant--a kestrel. Trees isolated from larger tracts of
woods have less chance of squirrels taking over the box.

SELECTING A HOUSE
In the bird house business, there's no such thing as "one size fits all." You need to
decide which bird you want to attract, then get a house for that particular bird.
Look through any book or catalog and you'll see bird houses of all sizes and shapes,
with perches and without, made of materials you might not have thought of: recycled
paper, gourds, plastic, rubber, pottery, metal, and concrete.

So what makes a "good" bird house? It's a combination of quality materials and
design.

MATERIALS
Of all the available building materials, wood is about as good as you can get. It's
durable, has good insulating qualities, and it breathes. Three-quarter-inch-thick
bald-cypress and red cedar are recommended. Pine and exterior grade plywood will do,
but they're not as durable.
It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or finished, as long as
the inside has not been treated with stains or preservatives. Fumes from the
chemicals could harm the birds.

There's no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood houses will last
longer with a coat of water based exterior latex paint. White is the color for purple
martin houses. Tan, gray, or dull green works best for the other cavity nesting
species. The dull, light colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to predators.
Don't paint the inside of the box or the entrance hole.

Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you nail them will
extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass shank nails, hinges, and
screws resist rusting and hold boxes together more tightly as they age.

Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. Reflective metal makes
sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when it's tacked onto a roof
of a wood chickadee house, the metal is more likely to attract predators.

Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They "breathe," and because they
sway in the wind are less likely to be taken over by house sparrows and starlings.

Grow your own gourds and you'll have dozens to choose from in the years ahead. If you
don't have the space to grow them, a coat of polyurethane or exterior latex (on the
outside only) will add years to the one you have.

Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), concrete, and plastic
houses will breathe and are durable, but don't drop them.

Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for maintenance and
monitoring. Concrete (actually a mix of concrete and sawdust) offers protection other
houses cannot: squirrels cannot chew their way in.

DESIGN
How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your personal sense of aesthetics.
For the most part, all the birds care about is their safety and the right dimensions:
box height, depth and floor, diameter of entrance hole, and height of hole above the
box floor. Refer to the following chart, keeping in mind that birds make their own
choices, without regard for charts. So don't be surprised when you find tenants you
never expected in a house you intended for someone else.
Nest Box Dimensions (use Courier font to align the columns)
Box Box Entrance Entrance Placement
floor height height diameter height
Species inches inches inches inches feet
================================================== =============
American
Robin* 7x8 8 --- --- 6-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Eastern
Bluebird 5x5 8-12 6-10 1-1/2 4-6
---------------------------------------------------------------
Western &
Mountain
Bluebird 5x5 8-12 6-10 1-9/16 4-6
---------------------------------------------------------------
Chickadees 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-1/8 4-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Titmice 4x4 10-12 6-10 1-1/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Ash-throated
Flycatcher 6x6 8-12 6-10 1-1/2 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Great
Crested
Flycatcher 6x6 8-12 6-10 1-3/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Phoebes* 6x6 6 --- --- 8-12
---------------------------------------------------------------
Brown-headed
Pygmy and
Red-breasted
Nuthatch 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-1/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
White-
breasted
Nuthatch 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-3/8 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Prothonotary
Warbler 5x5 6 4-5 1-1/8 4-8
---------------------------------------------------------------
Barn
Swallow* 6x6 6 --- --- 8-12
---------------------------------------------------------------
Purple
Martin 6x6 6 1-2 2-1/4 6-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Tree and
Violet-Green
Swallows 5x5 6-8 4-6 1-1/2 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Downy
Woodpecker 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-1/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Hairy
Woodpecker 6x6 12-15 9-12 1-1/2 8-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Lewis's
Woodpecker 7x7 16-18 14-16 2-1/2 12-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Northern
Flicker 7x7 16-18 14-16 2-1/2 6-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Pileated
Woodpecker 8x8 16-24 12-20 3x4 15-25
---------------------------------------------------------------
Red-Headed
Woodpecker 6x6 12-15 9-12 2 10-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Yellow-
bellied
Sapsucker 5x5 12-15 9-12 1-1/2 10-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Bewick's and
House wrens 4x4 6-8 4-6 1-1/4 5-10
---------------------------------------------------------------
Carolina
Wren 4x4 6-8 4-6 1-1/2 5-10
---------------------------------------------------------------
Barn Owls 10x18 15-18 4 6 12-18
---------------------------------------------------------------
Screech
Owls and
Kestrel 8x8 12-15 9-12 3 10-30
---------------------------------------------------------------
Osprey 48x48 platform
---------------------------------------------------------------
Red-tailed
Hawk and
Great
Horned Owl 24x24 platform
---------------------------------------------------------------
Wood Ducks 10x18 10-24 12-16 4 10-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
*Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and an open front

Now that you have the correct dimensions for your bird house, take a look at how to
make it safe: ventilation, drainage, susceptibly to predators, and ease of
maintenance.
Ventilation
Without air vents, boxes can turn into bird ovens. There are two ways to provide
ventilation: leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, or drill 1/4" holes
just below the roof.
Drainage
Water becomes a problem when it sits in the bottom of a bird house. A roof with
sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection. Drilling the entrance hole on
an upward slant may also help keep the water out.
Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the entrance hole. You can
assure proper drainage by cutting away the corners of the box floor and by drilling
1/4 inch holes in the box floor. Nest boxes will last longer if the floors are
recessed about 1/4 inch.

Entrance Hole
Look for the entrance hole (and exit) hole on the front panel near the top. A rough
surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into the box and,
when it's time, for the nestlings to climb out.
If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside below the hole.
Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats, or wire mesh to the inside.

Never put up a bird house with a perch below the entrance hole. Perches offer
starlings, house sparrows, and other predators a convenient place to wait for lunch.

Don't be tempted by those beautiful duplexes or houses that have more than one
entrance hole. With the exception of purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not
to share a house. While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house
sparrows are the only birds inclined to use them.

Accessibility
Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds are doing and,
when the time comes, clean out the house.
Part of being a responsible bird house landlord is your willingness to watch out for
your tenants. Monitor your bird houses every week and evict unwanted creatures: house
sparrows, starlings, rodents, snakes, and insects.

Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes. You may find something other than a bird
inside. Don't be surprised to see squirrels, a mouse, a snake, or insects. Look for
fleas, flies, mites, larvae, and lice in the bottom of the box.

If you find insects and parasites, your first reaction may be grab the nearest can of
insect spray. If you do, use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1%
rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a problem, coat the inside top of
the box with bar soap.

Here's how to check your nest boxes:

Watch the nest for awhile. If you don't see or hear any birds, go over and tap on the
box. If you hear bird sounds, open the top and take a quick peek inside. If
everything's okay, close the box. If you see problems (parasites or predators),
remove them and close the box.

Here's where a bird house with easy access makes the job simple. Most bird houses can
be opened from the top, the side, the front, or the bottom.

Boxes that open from the top and the front provide the easiest access. Opening the
box from the top is less likely to disturb nesting birds. It's impossible to open a
box from the bottom without the nest falling out. While side- and front-opening boxes
are convenient for cleaning and monitoring, they have one drawback: the nestlings may
jump out.

If this happens, don't panic. Just pick them up and put them back in the nest. Don't
worry that the adults will reject the nestlings if you handle them. That's a myth.
Most birds have a terrible sense of smell.

If you clean out your nest boxes after each brood has fledged, several pairs may use
the nest throughout the summer. Many cavity nesting birds will not nest again in a
box full of old nesting

In the fall, after you've cleaned out your nest boxes for the last time, you can put
them in storage or leave them out. Gourds and pottery last longer if you take them in
for the winter. You can leave your purple martin houses up, but be sure to plug the
entrance holes to discourage starlings and house sparrows.

Leaving your wood and concrete houses out provides shelter for birds, flying
squirrels, and other animals during winter.

Each spring be sure to clean out all houses you've left out for the winter.

Limiting Predator Access
Proper box depth, roof, and entrance hole design will help minimize predator
(raccoons, cats, opossums, and red squirrels) access. Sometimes all it takes is an
angled roof with a three-inch overhang to discourage mammals.
The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird house full of
nestlings. By itself, the 3/4" wall isn't wide enough to keep out the arm of a
raccoon or house cat.

Add a predator guard a 3/4 inch thick rectangular wood block, to thicken the wall,
and you'll discourage sparrows, starlings, and cats.

BIRD HOUSE PLACEMENT
Where you put your bird house is as important as its design and construction. Cavity
nesting birds are very particular about where they live. No matter how perfect your
nest box, if you don't have the right habitat, the birds aren't likely to find it.
Not everyone has the habitat for a wood duck, purple martin, or screech owl. On the
other hand, just about anyone can attract a robin, titmouse, wren, or chickadee.

Let's assume you've built or bought the "perfect" house. You put it out in your
backyard in February. Months pass, and not one bird has landed on it. What's wrong?

It may be that you don't have the right habitat, or it may be where you put the
house.

There's lots you can do to modify your land to attract the birds you want to see. It
can be as simple as putting out a bird bath or as complicated as planting
fruit-bearing shrubs or installing a pond with a waterfall.

But it's much easier just to identify the birds most likely to take to your backyard
as it is and put the appropriate nest box in the right place.

Should you hang it from a tree limb, nail it to a fence, or mount it on a pole or a
tree trunk?

There's a wide range between how high and low you can place a nest box. Pick a height
that's convenient for you. After all, you'll want to watch what goes on and keep the
box clean. If you want to watch chickadees from your second floor window or deck,
fifteen feet is not unreasonable but it's a lot easier to clean out a box at eye
level.

Here are some tips on where to put bird houses:

houses mounted on metal poles are less vulnerable to predators than houses nailed to
tree trunks or hung from tree limbs.
use no more than four small nest boxes for any one species or one large box per acre.
put about 100 yards between bluebird boxes and 75 yards between swallow boxes (if you
have both species, "pair" the houses with one bluebird box 25 feet from a swallow
box. Put the "pair" 100 yards away.)
don't put bird houses near bird feeders.
don't put more than one box in a tree, unless the tree is extremely large or the
boxes are for different species.
if you have very hot summers, face the entrance holes of your boxes north or east to
avoid overheating the box.
PROTECTION FROM PREDATORS

Cats
Nesting birds are very vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and birds roosting for
the night. Bell collars on cats offer birds little protection. Nailing a sheet metal
guard or cone to a tree trunk is unsightly, but it may deter less agile felines.
Houses mounted on metal poles are the most difficult for predators to reach,
especially if you smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper mixture.
Dogs
Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer. All it takes is one
swift bite and the baby bird is gone. Don't let your dog run loose during nesting
time.
Squirrels
Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious menace to bird
houses and the birds themselves. If you find your nest hole enlarged, chances are a
red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside the box, squirrels make a meal of the eggs a
nd young.
Adding a predator guard of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually enough to keep
squirrels out.

Raccoons and Opossums
Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try to pull out the
adult, young, and eggs. Adding a predator guard to the bird house or to its pole
support is a simple solution.
Snakes
Snakes are an important part of the natural balance between predator and prey. If you
find one of these reptiles in your bird house, please don't kill it.
Snake-proof your house by putting it on a metal pole lathered with vaseline or hot
red cayenne pepper.

House Sparrows and Starlings
If you don't discourage them, these two pest species introduced from Europe will
bully or kill cavity-nesting birds. Since house sparrows and starlings are not
protected by law, you may destroy their nests. But, remember, other birds are
protected by law.
House Wrens
Sometimes house wrens interfere with the nesting success of other birds by puncturing
their eggs. But unlike the sparrow and starling, these birds are part of the natural
system. They are protected by law. Don't be tempted to intervene.
Insects
Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. You should inspect your bird
houses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats, and bees.
You can keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating the inside of the
roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths abound, avoid placing boxes in oak
trees, which are favored by the gypsy moths.

Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly larvae, bird
lice, and miles after birds have finished nesting for the season.



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Default Bird House Plans Needed......pls

alfalfa wrote:
hi all,

I've just spent 7 weeks in the hospital, and was looking forward to
building some birdhouses as as means of therapeutic value, as well as
help our feathered friends along for the winter. Is there anyone out
there that may have some simple plans/drawings that they could share.
I'd like to keep the design simple if possible, however i'd love to
attract as many birds as i can (the cardinal especially)


Bats need houses too.


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Default Bird House Plans Needed.... Here you go!

http://www.birds.cornell.edu/birdhou...extra/download



"Artemus" wrote in message
. ..
"alfalfa" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

I've just spent 7 weeks in the hospital, and was looking forward to
building some birdhouses as as means of therapeutic value, as well as
help our feathered friends along for the winter. Is there anyone out
there that may have some simple plans/drawings that they could share.
I'd like to keep the design simple if possible, however i'd love to
attract as many birds as i can (the cardinal especially)

Thanks for any help
....Giuseppe


Here's some info I collected a while back. Plans are a dime a dozen,
just Google for them, then modify the dimensions to suit the species
you want to attract.
Art

BIRDS YOU CAN ATTRACT TO NEST BOXES

Many of the birds that visit feeders and baths may stay and nest in nearby
trees.
Most of them, including cardinals, doves and orioles, don't nest in boxes.
You can
still help them by considering their food and shelter requirements in your
landscape
plans. You can also hang out a wire cage full of nesting materials (fiber
scraps,
twigs, wool, or feathers) in the spring.
More than two dozen North American birds will nest in bird houses. The
following
descriptions will help you determine which birds might visit your
neighborhood.

Bluebirds
If you put up a bluebird house near an old field, orchard, park, cemetery,
or golf
course, you'll have a good chance of attracting a pair of bluebirds. They
prefer nest
boxes on a tree stump or wooden fence post between three and five feet
high.
Bluebirds also nest in abandoned woodpecker nest holes. The most important
measurement is the hole diameter. An inch and a half is small enough to
deter
starlings. Starlings and house sparrows have been known to kill baby
bluebirds as
well as adults sitting on the nest.
Bluebirds have problems with other animals too. The easiest way to
discourage
predatory cats, snakes, raccoons, and chipmunks is to mount the house on a
metal
pole, or use a metal predator guard on a wood post.

Robins
Robins are our largest thrushes. They prefer to build their nest in the
crotch of a
tree. If you don't have an appropriate tree, you can offer a nesting
platform. Pick a
spot six feet or higher up on a shaded tree trunk or under the overhang of
a shed or
porch. Creating a "mud puddle" nearby offers further excitement, as robins
use mud to
line their nests.
Chickadees, Nuthatches, and Titmice
Chickadees, titmice, and nuthatches share the same food, feeders, and
habitats. If
you put a properly designed nest box in a wooded yard, at least one pair
is sure to
check it out.
Put chickadee houses at eye level. Hang them from limbs or secure them to
tree
trunks. The entrance hole should be 1-1/8" to attract chickadees yet
exclude house
sparrows.

Anchor houses for hatches on tree trunks five to six feet off the ground.

You can encourage these birds to stay in your yard by continuing to fill
your suet
and peanut feeders through the summer.

Brown Creepers and Prothonotary Warblers
Look for brown creepers to nest behind the curved bark of tree trunks. In
heavily
wooded yards, slab bark houses will appeal to creepers. Prothonotary
warblers also
prefer slab bark houses, but theirs must be placed over water.
Wrens
Wrens don't seem to be very picky about where they nest. Try nest boxes
with a 1" x
2" horizontal slot (1-1/2" x 2-1/2" for the larger Carolina wrens) instead
of a
circle. These are easier for the wrens to use.
Wrens are notorious for filling up any conceivable nest cavity with twigs,
regardless
of whether they use the nest. Since male house wrens build several nests
for the
female to choose from, hang several nest boxes at eye level on partly
sunlit tree
limbs. Wrens are sociable and will accept nest boxes quite close to your
house.

Tree and Violet-green Swallows
Tree swallows prefer nest boxes attached to dead trees. Space the boxes
about seven
feet apart for these white-bellied birds with iridescent blue-green backs
and wings.
The ideal setting for these insect-eaters is on the edge of a field near a
lake,
pond, or river.
Violet-green swallows nest in forested mountains of the west; boxes placed
on large
trees in a semi-open woodland will attract them.

Barn Swallows and Phoebes
If you have the right habitat, barn swallows and phoebes are easy to
attract. It's
their nesting behavior, not their plumage or song, that catches your
attention. These
birds tend to nest where you'd rather not have them: on a ledge right over
your front
door. To avoid a mess by your door, offer the birds a nesting shelf nearby
where
you'd rather have them.
Purple Martins
Many people want martins because, it's been said, these birds "can eat
2,000
mosquitoes a day." While it's true that they eat flying insects, don't
expect purple
martins to wipe out your mosquitoes. Martins actually prefer dragonflies,
insects
which prey on mosquito larvae.
Mosquitoes are most active after sunset. If you want to rid your yard of
mosquitoes,
put up a bat roosting box. One bat can eat thousands of mosquitoes a
night.

But don't cross martins off your prospective tenant list because they
don't live up
to their "bug zapping" reputation. If you need a reason for attracting
them, these
gregarious swallows put on a show that's better than any television soap
opera.

You have the best chance of attracting martins if you put a house on the
edge of a
pond or river, surrounded by a field or lawn. Martins need a radius of
about 40 feet
of unobstructed flying space around their houses. A convenient wire nearby
gives them
a place to perch in sociable groups.

Martins nest in groups, so you'll need a house with a minimum of four
large rooms --
6 or more inches on all sides, with a 2-1/4 inch entrance hole about an
inch and a
half above the floor.

Ventilation and drainage are critical factors in martin house design.
Porches,
railings, porch dividers and supplemental roof perches, like a TV antenna,
will make
any house more appealing.

Gourds may also be made into houses by making an entrance hole and
providing
drainage. If you use gourds, it's not necessary to add railings and
perches. Adult
martins will perch on the wire used to hang the houses.

Before you decide on a house, take the time to think about what kind of
pole you're
going to put it on. Martins will occupy a house that's between ten and
twenty feet
off the ground. Some poles are less cumbersome than others.

Gourd houses are the easiest to set up. You can string them:

from a wire between two poles
from a sectional aluminum pole
on pulleys mounted to cross-bar high up on a pole.
Light-weight aluminum houses can be mounted on telescoping poles,
providing easy
access for maintenance and inspection. Because of their weight (well over
30 pounds),
wood houses cannot be mounted on easy-access telescoping poles. You'll
have to use a
sturdy metal or wood pole attached to a pivot post. The problem with this
"lowering"
technique is that you can't tilt the house without damaging the nests
inside. If you
put your house on a shorter, fixed pole, ten to twelve feet high, you can
use a
ladder to inspect and maintain it.
Flycatchers
The great crested flycatcher and its western cousin, the ash-throated
flycatcher, are
common in wooded suburbs. Their natural nesting sites are abandoned
woodpecker holes.
These flycatchers may nest in a bird house if it's placed about ten feet
up in a tree
in an orchard or at the edge of a field or stream.

Woodpeckers
You can attract all the woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but only the
flicker and the
red-bellied are likely to use a bird house. They prefer a box with
roughened interior
and a floor covered with a two-inch layer of wood chips or coarse sawdust.
Flickers
are especially attracted to nest boxes filled with sawdust, which they
"excavate" to
suit themselves.
For best results, place the box high up on a tree trunk exposed to direct
sunlight.

Owls
Most owls seldom build their own nests. Great horned and long-eared owls
prefer
abandoned crow and hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn, saw-whet, boreal
and
screech) nest in tree cavities and bird houses.
Barn owls are best known for selecting nesting sites near farms. Where
trees are
sparse, these birds will nest in church steeples, silos, and barns. If you
live near
a farm or a golf course, try fastening a nest box about 15 feet up on a
tree trunk.

Screech owls prefer abandoned woodpecker holes at the edge of a field or
neglected
orchard. They will readily take to a boxes lined with an inch or two of
wood
shavings. If you clean the box out in late spring after the young owls
have fledged,
you may attract a second tenant--a kestrel. Trees isolated from larger
tracts of
woods have less chance of squirrels taking over the box.

SELECTING A HOUSE
In the bird house business, there's no such thing as "one size fits all."
You need to
decide which bird you want to attract, then get a house for that
particular bird.
Look through any book or catalog and you'll see bird houses of all sizes
and shapes,
with perches and without, made of materials you might not have thought of:
recycled
paper, gourds, plastic, rubber, pottery, metal, and concrete.

So what makes a "good" bird house? It's a combination of quality materials
and
design.

MATERIALS
Of all the available building materials, wood is about as good as you can
get. It's
durable, has good insulating qualities, and it breathes.
Three-quarter-inch-thick
bald-cypress and red cedar are recommended. Pine and exterior grade
plywood will do,
but they're not as durable.
It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or finished, as
long as
the inside has not been treated with stains or preservatives. Fumes from
the
chemicals could harm the birds.

There's no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood houses
will last
longer with a coat of water based exterior latex paint. White is the color
for purple
martin houses. Tan, gray, or dull green works best for the other cavity
nesting
species. The dull, light colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to
predators.
Don't paint the inside of the box or the entrance hole.

Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you nail
them will
extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass shank nails,
hinges, and
screws resist rusting and hold boxes together more tightly as they age.

Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. Reflective
metal makes
sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when it's tacked
onto a roof
of a wood chickadee house, the metal is more likely to attract predators.

Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They "breathe," and
because they
sway in the wind are less likely to be taken over by house sparrows and
starlings.

Grow your own gourds and you'll have dozens to choose from in the years
ahead. If you
don't have the space to grow them, a coat of polyurethane or exterior
latex (on the
outside only) will add years to the one you have.

Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), concrete,
and plastic
houses will breathe and are durable, but don't drop them.

Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for maintenance
and
monitoring. Concrete (actually a mix of concrete and sawdust) offers
protection other
houses cannot: squirrels cannot chew their way in.

DESIGN
How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your personal sense of
aesthetics.
For the most part, all the birds care about is their safety and the right
dimensions:
box height, depth and floor, diameter of entrance hole, and height of hole
above the
box floor. Refer to the following chart, keeping in mind that birds make
their own
choices, without regard for charts. So don't be surprised when you find
tenants you
never expected in a house you intended for someone else.
Nest Box Dimensions (use Courier font to align the columns)
Box Box Entrance Entrance Placement
floor height height diameter height
Species inches inches inches inches feet
================================================== =============
American
Robin* 7x8 8 --- --- 6-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Eastern
Bluebird 5x5 8-12 6-10 1-1/2 4-6
---------------------------------------------------------------
Western &
Mountain
Bluebird 5x5 8-12 6-10 1-9/16 4-6
---------------------------------------------------------------
Chickadees 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-1/8 4-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Titmice 4x4 10-12 6-10 1-1/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Ash-throated
Flycatcher 6x6 8-12 6-10 1-1/2 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Great
Crested
Flycatcher 6x6 8-12 6-10 1-3/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Phoebes* 6x6 6 --- --- 8-12
---------------------------------------------------------------
Brown-headed
Pygmy and
Red-breasted
Nuthatch 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-1/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
White-
breasted
Nuthatch 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-3/8 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Prothonotary
Warbler 5x5 6 4-5 1-1/8 4-8
---------------------------------------------------------------
Barn
Swallow* 6x6 6 --- --- 8-12
---------------------------------------------------------------
Purple
Martin 6x6 6 1-2 2-1/4 6-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Tree and
Violet-Green
Swallows 5x5 6-8 4-6 1-1/2 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Downy
Woodpecker 4x4 8-10 6-8 1-1/4 5-15
---------------------------------------------------------------
Hairy
Woodpecker 6x6 12-15 9-12 1-1/2 8-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Lewis's
Woodpecker 7x7 16-18 14-16 2-1/2 12-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Northern
Flicker 7x7 16-18 14-16 2-1/2 6-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Pileated
Woodpecker 8x8 16-24 12-20 3x4 15-25
---------------------------------------------------------------
Red-Headed
Woodpecker 6x6 12-15 9-12 2 10-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Yellow-
bellied
Sapsucker 5x5 12-15 9-12 1-1/2 10-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
Bewick's and
House wrens 4x4 6-8 4-6 1-1/4 5-10
---------------------------------------------------------------
Carolina
Wren 4x4 6-8 4-6 1-1/2 5-10
---------------------------------------------------------------
Barn Owls 10x18 15-18 4 6 12-18
---------------------------------------------------------------
Screech
Owls and
Kestrel 8x8 12-15 9-12 3 10-30
---------------------------------------------------------------
Osprey 48x48 platform
---------------------------------------------------------------
Red-tailed
Hawk and
Great
Horned Owl 24x24 platform
---------------------------------------------------------------
Wood Ducks 10x18 10-24 12-16 4 10-20
---------------------------------------------------------------
*Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and an open front

Now that you have the correct dimensions for your bird house, take a look
at how to
make it safe: ventilation, drainage, susceptibly to predators, and ease of
maintenance.
Ventilation
Without air vents, boxes can turn into bird ovens. There are two ways to
provide
ventilation: leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, or drill
1/4" holes
just below the roof.
Drainage
Water becomes a problem when it sits in the bottom of a bird house. A roof
with
sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection. Drilling the
entrance hole on
an upward slant may also help keep the water out.
Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the entrance hole.
You can
assure proper drainage by cutting away the corners of the box floor and by
drilling
1/4 inch holes in the box floor. Nest boxes will last longer if the floors
are
recessed about 1/4 inch.

Entrance Hole
Look for the entrance hole (and exit) hole on the front panel near the
top. A rough
surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into the
box and,
when it's time, for the nestlings to climb out.
If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside
below the hole.
Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats, or wire mesh to the inside.

Never put up a bird house with a perch below the entrance hole. Perches
offer
starlings, house sparrows, and other predators a convenient place to wait
for lunch.

Don't be tempted by those beautiful duplexes or houses that have more than
one
entrance hole. With the exception of purple martins, cavity-nesting birds
prefer not
to share a house. While these condos look great in your yard, starlings
and house
sparrows are the only birds inclined to use them.

Accessibility
Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds are
doing and,
when the time comes, clean out the house.
Part of being a responsible bird house landlord is your willingness to
watch out for
your tenants. Monitor your bird houses every week and evict unwanted
creatures: house
sparrows, starlings, rodents, snakes, and insects.

Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes. You may find something other
than a bird
inside. Don't be surprised to see squirrels, a mouse, a snake, or insects.
Look for
fleas, flies, mites, larvae, and lice in the bottom of the box.

If you find insects and parasites, your first reaction may be grab the
nearest can of
insect spray. If you do, use only insecticides known to be safe around
birds: 1%
rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a problem, coat the
inside top of
the box with bar soap.

Here's how to check your nest boxes:

Watch the nest for awhile. If you don't see or hear any birds, go over and
tap on the
box. If you hear bird sounds, open the top and take a quick peek inside.
If
everything's okay, close the box. If you see problems (parasites or
predators),
remove them and close the box.

Here's where a bird house with easy access makes the job simple. Most bird
houses can
be opened from the top, the side, the front, or the bottom.

Boxes that open from the top and the front provide the easiest access.
Opening the
box from the top is less likely to disturb nesting birds. It's impossible
to open a
box from the bottom without the nest falling out. While side- and
front-opening boxes
are convenient for cleaning and monitoring, they have one drawback: the
nestlings may
jump out.

If this happens, don't panic. Just pick them up and put them back in the
nest. Don't
worry that the adults will reject the nestlings if you handle them. That's
a myth.
Most birds have a terrible sense of smell.

If you clean out your nest boxes after each brood has fledged, several
pairs may use
the nest throughout the summer. Many cavity nesting birds will not nest
again in a
box full of old nesting

In the fall, after you've cleaned out your nest boxes for the last time,
you can put
them in storage or leave them out. Gourds and pottery last longer if you
take them in
for the winter. You can leave your purple martin houses up, but be sure to
plug the
entrance holes to discourage starlings and house sparrows.

Leaving your wood and concrete houses out provides shelter for birds,
flying
squirrels, and other animals during winter.

Each spring be sure to clean out all houses you've left out for the
winter.

Limiting Predator Access
Proper box depth, roof, and entrance hole design will help minimize
predator
(raccoons, cats, opossums, and red squirrels) access. Sometimes all it
takes is an
angled roof with a three-inch overhang to discourage mammals.
The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird house
full of
nestlings. By itself, the 3/4" wall isn't wide enough to keep out the arm
of a
raccoon or house cat.

Add a predator guard a 3/4 inch thick rectangular wood block, to thicken
the wall,
and you'll discourage sparrows, starlings, and cats.

BIRD HOUSE PLACEMENT
Where you put your bird house is as important as its design and
construction. Cavity
nesting birds are very particular about where they live. No matter how
perfect your
nest box, if you don't have the right habitat, the birds aren't likely to
find it.
Not everyone has the habitat for a wood duck, purple martin, or screech
owl. On the
other hand, just about anyone can attract a robin, titmouse, wren, or
chickadee.

Let's assume you've built or bought the "perfect" house. You put it out in
your
backyard in February. Months pass, and not one bird has landed on it.
What's wrong?

It may be that you don't have the right habitat, or it may be where you
put the
house.

There's lots you can do to modify your land to attract the birds you want
to see. It
can be as simple as putting out a bird bath or as complicated as planting
fruit-bearing shrubs or installing a pond with a waterfall.

But it's much easier just to identify the birds most likely to take to
your backyard
as it is and put the appropriate nest box in the right place.

Should you hang it from a tree limb, nail it to a fence, or mount it on a
pole or a
tree trunk?

There's a wide range between how high and low you can place a nest box.
Pick a height
that's convenient for you. After all, you'll want to watch what goes on
and keep the
box clean. If you want to watch chickadees from your second floor window
or deck,
fifteen feet is not unreasonable but it's a lot easier to clean out a box
at eye
level.

Here are some tips on where to put bird houses:

houses mounted on metal poles are less vulnerable to predators than houses
nailed to
tree trunks or hung from tree limbs.
use no more than four small nest boxes for any one species or one large
box per acre.
put about 100 yards between bluebird boxes and 75 yards between swallow
boxes (if you
have both species, "pair" the houses with one bluebird box 25 feet from a
swallow
box. Put the "pair" 100 yards away.)
don't put bird houses near bird feeders.
don't put more than one box in a tree, unless the tree is extremely large
or the
boxes are for different species.
if you have very hot summers, face the entrance holes of your boxes north
or east to
avoid overheating the box.
PROTECTION FROM PREDATORS

Cats
Nesting birds are very vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and birds
roosting for
the night. Bell collars on cats offer birds little protection. Nailing a
sheet metal
guard or cone to a tree trunk is unsightly, but it may deter less agile
felines.
Houses mounted on metal poles are the most difficult for predators to
reach,
especially if you smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper
mixture.
Dogs
Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer. All it takes
is one
swift bite and the baby bird is gone. Don't let your dog run loose during
nesting
time.
Squirrels
Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious menace
to bird
houses and the birds themselves. If you find your nest hole enlarged,
chances are a
red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside the box, squirrels make a meal of
the eggs a
nd young.
Adding a predator guard of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually
enough to keep
squirrels out.

Raccoons and Opossums
Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try to
pull out the
adult, young, and eggs. Adding a predator guard to the bird house or to
its pole
support is a simple solution.
Snakes
Snakes are an important part of the natural balance between predator and
prey. If you
find one of these reptiles in your bird house, please don't kill it.
Snake-proof your house by putting it on a metal pole lathered with
vaseline or hot
red cayenne pepper.

House Sparrows and Starlings
If you don't discourage them, these two pest species introduced from
Europe will
bully or kill cavity-nesting birds. Since house sparrows and starlings are
not
protected by law, you may destroy their nests. But, remember, other birds
are
protected by law.
House Wrens
Sometimes house wrens interfere with the nesting success of other birds by
puncturing
their eggs. But unlike the sparrow and starling, these birds are part of
the natural
system. They are protected by law. Don't be tempted to intervene.
Insects
Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. You should inspect
your bird
houses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats, and bees.
You can keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating the
inside of the
roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths abound, avoid placing boxes
in oak
trees, which are favored by the gypsy moths.

Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly
larvae, bird
lice, and miles after birds have finished nesting for the season.







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Default Bird House Plans Needed......pls

Sat, Oct 13, 2007, 6:26pm (EDT-1) (HeyBub) did
sayeth:
Bats need houses too.

What, not secret bat caves?



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

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Default Bird House Plans Needed......pls

J T wrote:
Sat, Oct 13, 2007, 6:26pm (EDT-1) (HeyBub) did
sayeth:
Bats need houses too.

What, not secret bat caves?


With eight, you get guano.


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