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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint
off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? TIA |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:53:11 -0400, "noreaster"
noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote: How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? What kind of paint? Lead may be present. Personally, if I was relatively sure no lead paint was present, I would probably strip the paint with a belt sander, then plane it. --------------------------------------------- ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html ** --------------------------------------------- |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead.
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:53:11 -0400, "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote: How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? What kind of paint? Lead may be present. Personally, if I was relatively sure no lead paint was present, I would probably strip the paint with a belt sander, then plane it. --------------------------------------------- ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html ** --------------------------------------------- |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
"noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a planer... I'd plane the unpainted side and hide the painted side. John |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
Thanx, that I can do since the painted side wont be seen at all.
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message ... "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a planer... I'd plane the unpainted side and hide the painted side. John |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
noreaster wrote:
How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? If it's not critical to get the paint off (ie you're not gluing it and the back side isn't visible) then leaving the paint on is likely your best bet. Alternately, you could just shave off a sixteenth with a big flat bit in your router. The carbide will hold up to the paint better than steel planer knives. I've also done it with scrapers and an angle grinder, although with abrasives I'm worried that some of it will get stuck in the wood and nick the planer blades. Chris |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
On Sep 8, 3:53 pm, "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote:
How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? I'd take it outside and hit it with Zip-Strip. Fast and easy. With painted wood, hidden nails are as much a hazard to your tooling as abrasive paint. If you're using carbide cutters, nails are also liable to create shrapnel, particularly hardened masonry nails. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
Good idea with the router, bits are cheaper and end result would be less
damage to tools. The other side wont be seen at all and would be screwed in. "Chris Friesen" wrote in message ... noreaster wrote: How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? If it's not critical to get the paint off (ie you're not gluing it and the back side isn't visible) then leaving the paint on is likely your best bet. Alternately, you could just shave off a sixteenth with a big flat bit in your router. The carbide will hold up to the paint better than steel planer knives. I've also done it with scrapers and an angle grinder, although with abrasives I'm worried that some of it will get stuck in the wood and nick the planer blades. Chris |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster"
noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote: I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead. What does lead paint smell like? Pete |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a planer... I'm not doubting you because I don't know but what could be in paint that would damage steel knives? Not the oil...not the resin...titanium dioxide? -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
"noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message
... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? TIA Start with paint stripper and a scraper. It also keeps the paint in one peice and dust-free so it can be safely disposed of, and it sounds like the wood is flat sided. Once you can see wood you can tell if there are nails. Get those out or punch them in deep before using your planer. Does anyone know, was lead just used in glosses and topcoats, or do you find it in undercoats and primers too? |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
"Dave Gordon" d@p wrote in message
... "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? TIA Start with paint stripper and a scraper. It also keeps the paint in one peice and dust-free so it can be safely disposed of, and it sounds like the wood is flat sided. Once you can see wood you can tell if there are nails. Get those out or punch them in deep before using your planer. Does anyone know, was lead just used in glosses and topcoats, or do you find it in undercoats and primers too? A set of planer blades costs me about $45,00. So I remove the paint before using the planer. I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff. When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun. If the coating is very thick, I use a flexible blade scraper. When the coating of paint is not as thick and more so with latex paint I use a normal scraper and I maintain a sharp edge and angle with a ******* when the scrapper becomes dull. I is useful to have various sizes and shape of crappers. I have use carbide blade with some degree of satisfaction. The problem is to re-sharpen the edge. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:%vEEi.2277$He1.727@trnddc03... John Grossbohlin wrote: "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a planer... I'm not doubting you because I don't know but what could be in paint that would damage steel knives? Not the oil...not the resin...titanium dioxide? Silica (basically sand) calcium carbonate, talc, and kaolin gives paint it's body and durability these days. The silica in particular acts as an abrasive and wears jointer and planer knives quickly and the other fillers aren't much kinder. The last time I tried to run painted wood through my jointer will be the last time. I thought I could get away with jointing the edges of a pre-primed board that had been ripped on the table saw. Wrong... I ended up with two grooves worn in the knives that left humps in the surface of the boards run over it later. http://www.u-s-silica.com/groundsilica.htm http://www.innovations-report.com/ht...ort-59277.html John |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
In article , wrote:
I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff. When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun. If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest way to go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a better idea. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , wrote: I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff. When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun. If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest way to go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a better idea. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Each case has to be analysed. Each project is handled differently. A 50 years old plus exterior front door used on a house compare to an old French finish on a walnut dinning set are very different. As much as I can I try to avoid using chemical. I do not use heat all the time and when I do I wear a proper mask. Most of the jobs are done with hand scrapers of various shapes and configurations. I have used chemicals and learned that using scrapers takes me about the same time or better. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
Like Lead. It has a sweetesh metal smell/taste, if you can smell/taste
it you have a real problem case. wrote in message ... On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote: I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead. What does lead paint smell like? Pete |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
On Sep 8, 6:33 pm, "Dave Gordon" d@p wrote:
"noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? TIA Start with paint stripper and a scraper. It also keeps the paint in one peice and dust-free so it can be safely disposed of, and it sounds like the wood is flat sided. Once you can see wood you can tell if there are nails. Get those out or punch them in deep before using your planer. Does anyone know, was lead just used in glosses and topcoats, or do you find it in undercoats and primers too? Ddin't know it was used in clear topcoats, but it was used to make very stable very opaque white lead, yellow lead, and red lead pigments. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:%vEEi.2277$He1.727@trnddc03... John Grossbohlin wrote: "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message ... How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's? I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out? A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a planer... I'm not doubting you because I don't know but what could be in paint that would damage steel knives? Not the oil...not the resin...titanium dioxide? Silica (basically sand) calcium carbonate, talc, and kaolin gives paint it's body and durability these days. The silica in particular acts as an abrasive and wears jointer and planer knives quickly and the other fillers aren't much kinder. The last time I tried to run painted wood through my jointer will be the last time. I thought I could get away with jointing the edges of a pre-primed board that had been ripped on the table saw. Wrong... I ended up with two grooves worn in the knives that left humps in the surface of the boards run over it later. http://www.u-s-silica.com/groundsilica.htm http://www.innovations-report.com/ht..._science/repor t-59277.html Calcium carbonate, talc, and kaolin are all very soft, aren't going to do anything to steel. Silica is a different story. Thanks for the answer and links. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
I cant explain the smell but I do notice it when the paint chips come off.
I rather not taste it. "Curran Copeland" wrote in message .. . Like Lead. It has a sweetesh metal smell/taste, if you can smell/taste it you have a real problem case. wrote in message ... On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote: I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead. What does lead paint smell like? Pete |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so
nasty. wrote in message ... "Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , wrote: I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff. When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun. If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest way to go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a better idea. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Each case has to be analysed. Each project is handled differently. A 50 years old plus exterior front door used on a house compare to an old French finish on a walnut dinning set are very different. As much as I can I try to avoid using chemical. I do not use heat all the time and when I do I wear a proper mask. Most of the jobs are done with hand scrapers of various shapes and configurations. I have used chemicals and learned that using scrapers takes me about the same time or better. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
"noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message t... I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so nasty. wrote in message ... "Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , wrote: I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff. When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun. If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest way to go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a better idea. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Each case has to be analysed. Each project is handled differently. A 50 years old plus exterior front door used on a house compare to an old French finish on a walnut dinning set are very different. As much as I can I try to avoid using chemical. I do not use heat all the time and when I do I wear a proper mask. Most of the jobs are done with hand scrapers of various shapes and configurations. I have used chemicals and learned that using scrapers takes me about the same time or better. I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so nasty. So nasty and I have to be careful not to rub my eyes with my fingers. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
wrote in message ... "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message t... I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so nasty. So nasty and I have to be careful not to rub my eyes with my fingers. Yeah but you'd do the same if you had treacle on your hands, or had handled chillis. No need to be frightened of this stuff. The remover that is a jelly consistency is not so bad. Wear gloves if you feel you need it, but usually its enough to just wash your hands in running water if you get more than just drops on your hands, mainly to avoid touching painted surfaces you want to keep. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
When I first painted the front doorway with 2 side windows, the paint
remover was jelly like, just made sure I covered all the spots, let it sit and easily scrap off. That stuff was so nasty, I hope I wont have to do that again. I did use gloves and had my shirt over my mouth, breathed as little as possible.I do have a respirator which helps a lot with the pvc cement and primer, wood dust and spray paint. "Dave Gordon" d@p wrote in message ... wrote in message ... "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message t... I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so nasty. So nasty and I have to be careful not to rub my eyes with my fingers. Yeah but you'd do the same if you had treacle on your hands, or had handled chillis. No need to be frightened of this stuff. The remover that is a jelly consistency is not so bad. Wear gloves if you feel you need it, but usually its enough to just wash your hands in running water if you get more than just drops on your hands, mainly to avoid touching painted surfaces you want to keep. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Planer with Painted wood
For me it's both a smell/taste thing at the same time. I agree it's hard to explain, you get the same sensation when you melt lead. Hard to explain but unforgettable. "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote in message news I cant explain the smell but I do notice it when the paint chips come off. I rather not taste it. "Curran Copeland" wrote in message .. . Like Lead. It has a sweetesh metal smell/taste, if you can smell/taste it you have a real problem case. wrote in message ... On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster" noreaster1athotmaildotcom wrote: I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead. What does lead paint smell like? Pete |
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