--I'm planning to attach some pieces via splines, as biscuits would
be a real pain in this application. Sooo what wood will work best as the
spline material?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : A steaming pile of
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : obscure information...
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

steamer wrote:
--I'm planning to attach some pieces via splines, as biscuits would
be a real pain in this application. Sooo what wood will work best as the
spline material?

Same as the stock is best...

Specifics????

--

steamer wrote:
--I'm planning to attach some pieces via splines, as biscuits would
be a real pain in this application. Sooo what wood will work best as the
spline material?

Spliney wood?

--
©Russ

"Praise Jebus!" - H. J. Simpson

"steamer" wrote in message
...
--I'm planning to attach some pieces via splines, as biscuits would
be a real pain in this application. Sooo what wood will work best as the
spline material?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas

I don't think there's much of a problem with species, just a design choice
of color. Will the splines be visible? For some applications, a
contrasting wood works nicely. Also, I was taught to use a cross-grain
spline, which means that the grain of the spline runs perpendicular to the
edge you're gluing. This is because a spline is much easier to break with
the grain than across it. If the spline is hidden, you can also consider
plywood.

todd

On 02 Sep 2007 18:04:41 GMT, steamer wrote:

--I'm planning to attach some pieces via splines, as biscuits would
be a real pain in this application. Sooo what wood will work best as the
spline material?


Not so important, but use a hardwood. I use whatever scraps I can
find around the shop. Make the spline with a perpendicular grain to
make a stronger spline, although this is more difficult to make for
longer splines.

On Sep 2, 11:04 am, steamer wrote:
--I'm planning to attach some pieces via splines, as biscuits would
be a real pain in this application. Sooo what wood will work best as the
spline material?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : A steaming pile of
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : obscure information...
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

If it doesn't show, what's wrong with 1/8th or better ply? Running the
grain of the plywood properly, of course. Tom

Running the grain of the plywood properly, of course.
Tom


Now *that* was funny!

JC

Joe wrote:
tom wrote:
Running the grain of the plywood properly, of course.
Tom

Now *that* was funny!

Why? Most thin plywood has very thin face layers, and a thicker middle
layer. The ideal spline would have the face layers parallel with the
grain of the boards being glued, so that the thicker middle layer is
perpendicular to the grain of the boards being glued.

Chris

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:
tom wrote:
Running the grain of the plywood properly, of course.
Tom

Now *that* was funny!

Why? Most thin plywood has very thin face layers, and a thicker middle
layer. The ideal spline would have the face layers parallel with the
grain of the boards being glued, so that the thicker middle layer is
perpendicular to the grain of the boards being glued.

Chris

I was looking at from the basic plywood construction technique of
alternating layers in all directions. Wasn't thinking about really thin
plywood, but then, the op didn't specify a thickness.

I still think it was funny, whether it was meant to be or not.

ymhav,

jc

On Sep 4, 5:24 pm, "Joe" wrote:
"Chris Friesen" wrote in message

...

Joe wrote:
tom wrote:
Running the grain of the plywood properly, of course.
Tom

Now *that* was funny!

Why? Most thin plywood has very thin face layers, and a thicker middle
layer. The ideal spline would have the face layers parallel with the
grain of the boards being glued, so that the thicker middle layer is
perpendicular to the grain of the boards being glued.

Chris

I was looking at from the basic plywood construction technique of
alternating layers in all directions. Wasn't thinking about really thin
plywood, but then, the op didn't specify a thickness.

I still think it was funny, whether it was meant to be or not.


I understood that too. But, orientation of the face grain of plywood
IS important. For a subfloor, the recommendation is to orient
the face grain across the joists. That is, for normal 4 x 8 plywood
the 8 foot length spans the joists. That is supposed to be 15%
stiffer than the other orientation.

There are also plywoods made with the face grain running
in the 4 foot direction, and 45 degrees to both edges.

--

FF

Fred the Red Shirt wrote:

I understood that too. But, orientation of the face grain of plywood
IS important. For a subfloor, the recommendation is to orient
the face grain across the joists. That is, for normal 4 x 8 plywood
the 8 foot length spans the joists. That is supposed to be 15%
stiffer than the other orientation.

Subfloor ply is construction material, and has different construction
than hardwood ply. Among other things the face plys are quite a bit
thicker.

I have 1/4" hardwood plywood which has only three plys--the thin face
plys and a much thicker inner layer. In this case, the ply is much
stronger perpendicular to the face grain.

Chris

On Sep 4, 12:59 pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
Fred the Red Shirt wrote:

I understood that too. But, orientation of the face grain of plywood
IS important. For a subfloor, the recommendation is to orient
the face grain across the joists. That is, for normal 4 x 8 plywood
the 8 foot length spans the joists. That is supposed to be 15%
stiffer than the other orientation.

Subfloor ply is construction material, and has different construction
than hardwood ply. Among other things the face plys are quite a bit
thicker.

I have 1/4" hardwood plywood which has only three plys--the thin face
plys and a much thicker inner layer. In this case, the ply is much
stronger perpendicular to the face grain.

Chris

On Sep 4, 12:59 pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
Fred the Red Shirt wrote:

I understood that too. But, orientation of the face grain of plywood
IS important. For a subfloor, the recommendation is to orient
the face grain across the joists. That is, for normal 4 x 8 plywood
the 8 foot length spans the joists. That is supposed to be 15%
stiffer than the other orientation.

Subfloor ply is construction material, and has different construction
than hardwood ply. Among other things the face plys are quite a bit
thicker.

I have 1/4" hardwood plywood which has only three plys--the thin face
plys and a much thicker inner layer. In this case, the ply is much
stronger perpendicular to the face grain.

Chris

Oops. From now on, I'm gonna check actual stiffnesses. Have to watch
for that. Thanks. Tom

On Sep 4, 2:59 pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
Fred the Red Shirt wrote:

I understood that too. But, orientation of the face grain of plywood
IS important. For a subfloor, the recommendation is to orient
the face grain across the joists. That is, for normal 4 x 8 plywood
the 8 foot length spans the joists. That is supposed to be 15%
stiffer than the other orientation.

Subfloor ply is construction material, and has different construction
than hardwood ply. Among other things the face plys are quite a bit
thicker.

I have 1/4" hardwood plywood which has only three plys--the thin face
plys and a much thicker inner layer. In this case, the ply is much
stronger perpendicular to the face grain.


Yes I think you're right.

Sometimes 1/4" hardwood plywood has a non-wood core.

--

FF