And don't forget to send me the dust door after you remove it! ;*)
Jamie

Unisaw A100 wrote:

jsm wrote:

I have restored a little-used UNISAW that was manufactured in the early
60s'. I've put on new fence as well as a 3 hp Baldor motor. The Baldor
sticks out about 6" past the edge of the cabinet which means I can only tilt
the blade ~ 15 degrees. Is there any solution to this problem other than
getting out my jig saw and cutting a larger hole in the side of the case


Solution 1) Find an older 3/4 to 1 horse
repulsion/induction motor.

Solution 2) Read this article. Pay close attention the
last portion more than the first.

http://www.owwm.com/FAQ/UnisawMotors.asp

and if I do that, will the 'motor shroud' for the newer Unisaws cover the
opening completely?


I would suspect so onna 'count of the cover was made for a 3
horse saw.

Also - is there an efficient way to dust collect from this machine other
than hanging a shroud (from the ceiling) over the blade area?


Remove the dust door. Make a new dust door from MDF and fit
it with a hose. Use rare earth magnets to keep it all in
place.

The real crux of the biscuit is getting up close to the
blade with your collector hose. You can jury rig this by
attaching an inlet to the chip deflector but there's a wee
bit of injineering to be done to make it usable at all angle
settings. Word on the street is there's a Nobel available
for the first guy to do it and a Pulitzer for the guy that
does the write up.

Also, you can port the saw through the big boxy motor cover.

UA100

Thanks for the good ideas. I'll check out the size of the motor shroud.
Changing the motor is not an option now that I'm used to the 3hp.

Steve

Excellent choice!
1. In one box you get the saw itself;
2. the table saw iron extensions.
3. a third one contains the Unifence
4. a fourth one may contain the mobile base plus the non metal extension
table depending what brand they are giving you ( lucky!).
You have to install the extensions and level them up and so the Unifence .
I got the HTC for this saw, but be prepared as mine was to long for the
nonmetal extension table and had to add a metal plate for proper support.
You will need help to lift up the table saw onto the base.
Yes it will go through a 36" door ( the saw ) as it is +/- 32" with the
Unisaw bar installed but will suggest you to first get the saw where you
want it and then install the Unifence; It will make your life easier.
While installing the Unifence you will find a long carton strip...don't ever
misplaced it as it serves to place the screws in the right place.
Good luck and enjoy your new toy.
.
"jsm" wrote in message
...
I have restored a little-used UNISAW that was manufactured in the early
60s'. I've put on new fence as well as a 3 hp Baldor motor. The Baldor
sticks out about 6" past the edge of the cabinet which means I can only
tilt
the blade ~ 15 degrees. Is there any solution to this problem other than
getting out my jig saw and cutting a larger hole in the side of the case
and
if I do that, will the 'motor shroud' for the newer Unisaws cover the
opening completely?

Also - is there an efficient way to dust collect from this machine other
than hanging a shroud (from the ceiling) over the blade area?

Steve - Mayne Island, BC

jsm wrote:
Changing the motor is not an option now that I'm used to the 3hp.

I'm happy to hear this. Leaves the vintage
repulsion/inductions with one less person trying to rub
their nose oils on them.

UA100, who does have a spare bullet end motor on hand
*just in case*...

It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .

I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a
standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home
depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.

On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit
described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did
two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap
between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct
piece and the base hole

I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height
adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the
blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there
were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.

Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works
quite well.

Almost forgot, the dust door at the front was replaced with a solid ply
door.

--
mike hide



"jsm" wrote in message
...
I have restored a little-used UNISAW that was manufactured in the early
60s'. I've put on new fence as well as a 3 hp Baldor motor. The Baldor
sticks out about 6" past the edge of the cabinet which means I can only
tilt
the blade ~ 15 degrees. Is there any solution to this problem other than
getting out my jig saw and cutting a larger hole in the side of the case
and
if I do that, will the 'motor shroud' for the newer Unisaws cover the
opening completely?

Also - is there an efficient way to dust collect from this machine other
than hanging a shroud (from the ceiling) over the blade area?

Steve - Mayne Island, BC

It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .

I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a
standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home
depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.

On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit
described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did
two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap
between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct
piece and the base hole

I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height
adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the
blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there
were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.

Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works
quite well

--
mike hide



"jsm" wrote in message
...
I have restored a little-used UNISAW that was manufactured in the early
60s'. I've put on new fence as well as a 3 hp Baldor motor. The Baldor
sticks out about 6" past the edge of the cabinet which means I can only
tilt
the blade ~ 15 degrees. Is there any solution to this problem other than
getting out my jig saw and cutting a larger hole in the side of the case
and
if I do that, will the 'motor shroud' for the newer Unisaws cover the
opening completely?

Also - is there an efficient way to dust collect from this machine other
than hanging a shroud (from the ceiling) over the blade area?

Steve - Mayne Island, BC

Thanks Mike - that is a great idea. I may have to rethink this thing again
before I attack it. Like you, I have sealed the semi-circular hole for the
blade tilt-track as well as around the table edges and around the base. I've
put a piece of thin ply on the inside of the vent door. I'm going over to
Rockwell tomorrow to check out their motor shroud. You are right. It is a
bugger to DC.

Steve

jsm wrote:
I'm going over to Rockwell tomorrow to check out their motor shroud.

Mind picking me up a list of parts and bringing them back to
the future with you?

UA100, working on a "Go Back In Time" machine...

I'm going over to Rockwell tomorrow to check out their motor shroud.

Mind picking me up a list of parts and bringing them back to
the future with you.

OK...DELTA ...feel better?

OK...DELTA ...feel better?

yes

UA100

The standard new motor shroud fits fine , thats the one I used, just make sure when you fit it that the motor is fully angled .

By the way, when I made enquiries to Delta's home office they kindly sent me free a copy of the manual for the saw....mjh

--
mike hide



"Unisaw A100" wrote in message ...
OK...DELTA ...feel better?

yes

UA100