It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .

I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a
standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home
depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.

On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit
described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did
two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap
between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct
piece and the base hole

I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height
adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the
blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there
were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.

Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works
quite well.

Almost forgot, the dust door at the front was replaced with a solid ply
door.

--
mike hide



"jsm" wrote in message
...
I have restored a little-used UNISAW that was manufactured in the early
60s'. I've put on new fence as well as a 3 hp Baldor motor. The Baldor
sticks out about 6" past the edge of the cabinet which means I can only
tilt
the blade ~ 15 degrees. Is there any solution to this problem other than
getting out my jig saw and cutting a larger hole in the side of the case
and
if I do that, will the 'motor shroud' for the newer Unisaws cover the
opening completely?

Also - is there an efficient way to dust collect from this machine other
than hanging a shroud (from the ceiling) over the blade area?

Steve - Mayne Island, BC