"David F. Eisan" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

A few weeks ago I posted a problem I was having with my Kitchen Cabinet
installation. My square and level cabinets had huge gaps between them and
the not so level and square ceiling.

I received many good suggestions on how to fix the problem. I liked some
of the crown molding suggestions the best, but time did not allow that
option.

I was looking for the quickest solution and this is the one I choose,

I milled up some 1-1/4" x 1/4" and 1-1/4 x 3/8" stock with a 3/16"
roundover on the bottom edge.

The 3/8" thick stock was for the sides of the cabinets and was notched
1/8" to go around the face frame and meet the 1/4" stock with a mitre and
still have the profiles meet up. To notch around the face frame I did a
quick and dirty rebate with my sliding compound mitre saw using the built
in depth stop to remove only 1/8" of material. I had to use a stand off
board to bring the trim away from the fence because with the lower
(higher?) travel of the SCMS blade, it did not notch the full way through
the trim.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/knotch1.jpg

All boards were scribed to the ceiling and pinned in place with a 23g
pinner. To scribe, I used a compass set to the widest gap and transfered
the profile from the ceiling to the trim while holding it level to the
cabinets. The trim was rough cut with a jig saw and tuned up with a low
angle block plane. The joints between the ceiling and the new trim were
caulked and the trim was painted the same colour as the ceiling.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/kscribe1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin2.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin3.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin4.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin5.jpg

If you stare at the trim long enough, you can see that it tapers, but the
fact that the trim maintains the same level reveal above the doors and
side panels makes everything look proper.

I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions on how to fix this
and I am sorry it took so long to post the outcome. I hate when we see
problems, make suggestions and never see the resolution. I was busy making
my house ready for market and *very* short on time. Things are better now
. I have a pending offer on the house after it being on the market for 2
days, but we are still doing an open house this weekend just in case.

Take care and thanks for looking,

David.

Every Neighbourhood has one, in Mine I'm Him


Jeez, how horrible --- LOL! Hey, it looks great. A craftsman doesn't
earn his title by perfection but leading the untrained eye to believe that
it is. Nice job, Dave!

On Jul 21, 11:45 pm, "David F. Eisan"
wrote:
Hello everyone,

A few weeks ago I posted a problem I was having with my Kitchen Cabinet
installation. My square and level cabinets had huge gaps between them and
the not so level and square ceiling.

I received many good suggestions on how to fix the problem. I liked some of
the crown molding suggestions the best, but time did not allow that option.

I was looking for the quickest solution and this is the one I choose,

I milled up some 1-1/4" x 1/4" and 1-1/4 x 3/8" stock with a 3/16" roundover
on the bottom edge.

The 3/8" thick stock was for the sides of the cabinets and was notched 1/8"
to go around the face frame and meet the 1/4" stock with a mitre and still
have the profiles meet up. To notch around the face frame I did a quick and
dirty rebate with my sliding compound mitre saw using the built in depth
stop to remove only 1/8" of material. I had to use a stand off board to
bring the trim away from the fence because with the lower (higher?) travel
of the SCMS blade, it did not notch the full way through the trim.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/knotch1.jpg

All boards were scribed to the ceiling and pinned in place with a 23g
pinner. To scribe, I used a compass set to the widest gap and transfered the
profile from the ceiling to the trim while holding it level to the cabinets.
The trim was rough cut with a jig saw and tuned up with a low angle block
plane. The joints between the ceiling and the new trim were caulked and the
trim was painted the same colour as the ceiling.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/kscribe1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin2.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin3.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin4.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin5.jpg

If you stare at the trim long enough, you can see that it tapers, but the
fact that the trim maintains the same level reveal above the doors and side
panels makes everything look proper.

I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions on how to fix this and
I am sorry it took so long to post the outcome. I hate when we see problems,
make suggestions and never see the resolution. I was busy making my house
ready for market and *very* short on time. Things are better now . I have
a pending offer on the house after it being on the market for 2 days, but we
are still doing an open house this weekend just in case.

Take care and thanks for looking,

David.

Every Neighbourhood has one, in Mine I'm Him

I hope the offer isn't pending due to tapered trim above the kitchen
cabinets. ;-)

Hello everyone,

A few weeks ago I posted a problem I was having with my Kitchen Cabinet
installation. My square and level cabinets had huge gaps between them and
the not so level and square ceiling.

I received many good suggestions on how to fix the problem. I liked some of
the crown molding suggestions the best, but time did not allow that option.

I was looking for the quickest solution and this is the one I choose,

I milled up some 1-1/4" x 1/4" and 1-1/4 x 3/8" stock with a 3/16" roundover
on the bottom edge.

The 3/8" thick stock was for the sides of the cabinets and was notched 1/8"
to go around the face frame and meet the 1/4" stock with a mitre and still
have the profiles meet up. To notch around the face frame I did a quick and
dirty rebate with my sliding compound mitre saw using the built in depth
stop to remove only 1/8" of material. I had to use a stand off board to
bring the trim away from the fence because with the lower (higher?) travel
of the SCMS blade, it did not notch the full way through the trim.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/knotch1.jpg

All boards were scribed to the ceiling and pinned in place with a 23g
pinner. To scribe, I used a compass set to the widest gap and transfered the
profile from the ceiling to the trim while holding it level to the cabinets.
The trim was rough cut with a jig saw and tuned up with a low angle block
plane. The joints between the ceiling and the new trim were caulked and the
trim was painted the same colour as the ceiling.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/kscribe1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin2.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin3.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin4.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/ktrimin5.jpg

If you stare at the trim long enough, you can see that it tapers, but the
fact that the trim maintains the same level reveal above the doors and side
panels makes everything look proper.

I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions on how to fix this and
I am sorry it took so long to post the outcome. I hate when we see problems,
make suggestions and never see the resolution. I was busy making my house
ready for market and *very* short on time. Things are better now . I have
a pending offer on the house after it being on the market for 2 days, but we
are still doing an open house this weekend just in case.

Take care and thanks for looking,

David.

Every Neighbourhood has one, in Mine I'm Him