Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots. Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is already on off.

Frustratedly,

D'ohBoy

In article .com, D'ohBoy wrote:
Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots.

Four DAYS???

I've used that stuff only three or four times, but whenever I've used it, it's
dried - hard - in less than four *hours*.

Could be you got a bad can; could be you have a very old can; or it could be
that you laid it on waaaaaay too heavy.

Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

No. It needs air more than it needs heat.

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

Might work; for sure it won't hurt now.

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

Probably not your best option. Even with the cup. g

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is already on off.

Unfortunately, that probably *is* your best option. But I'd sure try a day or
two in the sunshine before getting out the stripper.

And now you know why finishes should always be tested on scrap first. Somebody
here said it best several years ago: "If you don't test on scrap, you're
testing on your project." Too late to help with this one, I know, but remember
for next time.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

How did you apply the finish ?

"D'ohBoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots.
Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and
put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my
cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is
already on off.

Frustratedly,

D'ohBoy

"D'ohBoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots. Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is already on off.

Frustratedly,


Number of possibilities, one already mentioned. Too damn thick. Will cause
a cured skin over now virtually incurable muck. Could also be that you
didn't mix the oil and the solvent well enough when you shook the can.

Others include high humidity and low temperature, though you don't mention
where the finishing was done. Basement could be the problem.

Bite the bullet and wet sand the crud off with mineral spirits as a lube and
see if your new surface hardens. If you're guilty of any of the obvious,
you might be able to use the same can. If it's an old can with solvent
evaporated and oil/resin thick, pitch it and start fresh.

"George" wrote in message
. net...

"D'ohBoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots. Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is already on off.

Frustratedly,


Number of possibilities, one already mentioned. Too damn thick. Will
cause a cured skin over now virtually incurable muck. Could also be that
you didn't mix the oil and the solvent well enough when you shook the can.

Others include high humidity and low temperature, though you don't mention
where the finishing was done. Basement could be the problem.

Bite the bullet and wet sand the crud off with mineral spirits as a lube
and see if your new surface hardens. If you're guilty of any of the
obvious, you might be able to use the same can. If it's an old can with
solvent evaporated and oil/resin thick, pitch it and start fresh.

If removing the "crud" is the objective, I'd recommend scraping instead
of sanding. If there's no scraper available, the iron from a plane will
do. Don't gouge at the ends of the scraper (use some care). A scraper
will remove a LOT more stuff, quicker, than sanding. Then finish the job
by wiping with a rag and suitable solvent.

Jim Stuyck

On Jul 20, 8:20 am, "Puff Griffis" wrote:
How did you apply the finish ?

"D'ohBoy" wrote in message

oups.com...

Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots.
Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and
put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my
cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is
already on off.

Frustratedly,

D'ohBoy


Thin coat, applied by wiping on a thin layer, in basement,
dehumidifiers making it bone dry down there.

D'ohBoy

Jim Stuyck wrote:

If removing the "crud" is the objective, I'd recommend scraping instead
of sanding.

I second that!

Scrapers are by far, THE BEST way to remove major finish defects. They
leave a flat surface, vs. a rounded bump, don't gum up or pill, are
extremely cheap, and super fast.

Time spent learning to properly use scrapers will pay large dividends
over and over.

On Jul 20, 8:27 am, "George" wrote:
"D'ohBoy" wrote in message

oups.com...



Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots. Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is already on off.

Frustratedly,

Number of possibilities, one already mentioned. Too damn thick. Will cause
a cured skin over now virtually incurable muck. Could also be that you
didn't mix the oil and the solvent well enough when you shook the can.

Others include high humidity and low temperature, though you don't mention
where the finishing was done. Basement could be the problem.

Bite the bullet and wet sand the crud off with mineral spirits as a lube and
see if your new surface hardens. If you're guilty of any of the obvious,
you might be able to use the same can. If it's an old can with solvent
evaporated and oil/resin thick, pitch it and start fresh.


Finish is thin in can, lays on nice. Gonna lay them outside for a
while.

Let ya know what happens.

D'ohBoy

Hey you...
I've been re finishing my cabinet doors too.
I've been using the Minwax spray on fast cure poly.
I found that it was taking more time to dry than it should have because of
the humidity.

Not knowing where you live, I will share this with you.
I live in Tennessee. Here we have quite a bit of humidity. Some days much
worse than others.

I'm using a satin finish. What I've been doing is spraying them, then
setting them in the sun for about thirty minutes, this gets them started.
I take them out of the sun when the coat goes clear.. Then stand them up to
finish drying

The only time i have ever had anything happen like you're talking about is
when I've not mixed the can (brush on) well enough or when the weather has
been cool or really damp.

I say set them in the sun for an hour but watch them closely. The heat can
make the stain seep out of the grain in the wood and creats a funny looking
blotchy mess. It will make it blister too.

Best of luck, hope you let us know what you finally do to resolve the
problem.

Kate

--
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)


"D'ohBoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Stupid Minwax Wipe On Poly.

Been like four days and still sticky in spots. Can I/should I:

heat the oven to about 150 F, turn it off, and put the drawer fronts
in for a coupla hours?

- OR -

put them in the sun for a day?

- OR -

Throw the GD things in the wood stove, put on my cup and tell my wife
I ain't finishing the MF cabinets?

I am NOT going to strip the ****e that is already on off.

Frustratedly,

D'ohBoy

I'm a big chicken, I'd remove it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner.

Kate


"B A R R Y" wrote in message
t...
Jim Stuyck wrote:

If removing the "crud" is the objective, I'd recommend scraping instead
of sanding.

I second that!

Scrapers are by far, THE BEST way to remove major finish defects. They
leave a flat surface, vs. a rounded bump, don't gum up or pill, are
extremely cheap, and super fast.

Time spent learning to properly use scrapers will pay large dividends
over and over.

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 09:30:17 -0500, "Jim Stuyck"
wrote:

If removing the "crud" is the objective, I'd recommend scraping instead
of sanding. If there's no scraper available, the iron from a plane will
do. Don't gouge at the ends of the scraper (use some care). A scraper
will remove a LOT more stuff, quicker, than sanding. Then finish the job
by wiping with a rag and suitable solvent.

Jim Stuyck


I agree with scraping also. I've been using/trying to use scrapers for
some time now but the sharpening and rehooking had me by the short
hairs. The other day i saw this: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=169
Now I have my scrapers by the short hairs.
ROY!

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:21:21 -0500, "Kate"
wrote:

I'm a big chicken, I'd remove it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner.

Scotch Brite's are still way better than most sandpaper. They're very
useful for refinishing!

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:21:21 -0500, "Kate"
wrote:

I'm a big chicken, I'd remove it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner.

Scotch Brite's are still way better than most sandpaper. They're very
useful for refinishing!


Not to mention they get into corners and do shapes.

I worry about the words "coat" and "layer." Wonder if he might have flooded
the piece early to get to a surface finish in one shot. That would be a
mess. First coat should disappear, second nearly so unless you've got a
burnished surface.

Nice Link Roy!
I've tried scraping a little here and there and always messed things up.
Soooo.. I'm a chicken.

Now I may actually give it another go and practise some.

Kate

--
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

"ROY!" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 09:30:17 -0500, "Jim Stuyck"
wrote:

If removing the "crud" is the objective, I'd recommend scraping instead
of sanding. If there's no scraper available, the iron from a plane will
do. Don't gouge at the ends of the scraper (use some care). A scraper
will remove a LOT more stuff, quicker, than sanding. Then finish the job
by wiping with a rag and suitable solvent.

Jim Stuyck


I agree with scraping also. I've been using/trying to use scrapers for
some time now but the sharpening and rehooking had me by the short
hairs. The other day i saw this: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=169
Now I have my scrapers by the short hairs.
ROY!

On Jul 20, 1:10 pm, ROY! wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 09:30:17 -0500, "Jim Stuyck"
wrote:

If removing the "crud" is the objective, I'd recommend scraping instead
of sanding. If there's no scraper available, the iron from a plane will
do. Don't gouge at the ends of the scraper (use some care). A scraper
will remove a LOT more stuff, quicker, than sanding. Then finish the job
by wiping with a rag and suitable solvent.

Jim Stuyck

I agree with scraping also. I've been using/trying to use scrapers for
some time now but the sharpening and rehooking had me by the short
hairs. The other day i saw this:http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=169
Now I have my scrapers by the short hairs.
ROY!

A low bench or stool works great for scraper sharpening, since you
can lean forwards and put your body weight over the file / burnisher.

Notice how Marc kept the same angle of attack when scraping the
test piece? That'll give you a washboard surface. Skew the
scraper, changing the angle 20 degrees or so left and right every
couple of strokes.

On Jul 20, 10:36 am, D'ohBoy wrote:

Thin coat, applied by wiping on a thin layer, in basement,
dehumidifiers making it bone dry down there.

For each coat, keep the surface just barely wet for five, maybe ten
minutes, then wipe dry. Let dry. Lightly buff with gray Scotchbrite
to
denib, then tackcloth and repeat. Sure, the first and second coats
won't
look like much, but the third and fourth will look like Stradivarius
himself
varnished your cabinets.

Praise be to the power of moving air and sunshine!

The finish dried nicely in the sun. Thanks to all for their
suggestions!

Now all I have to do is the nasty job of trimming out the cabinets
(retrofit into a breakfast bar) where nothing is true nor flat.

D'ohBoy, who's hair doesn't need help falling out.