OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any tips to share?

The following thoughts help my glue-ups be enjoyable experiences with
no rushing or surprises.

1.) Do practice runs without glue. Use lessons learned from the
practice "no-glue"-up to create subassemblies whenever possible. The
practice runs will also set your clamps to length and double-check
that you've got everything handy. If it's ultra involved, write
yourself a procedure.

2.) Use slower drying glues, like Titebond Extend or slow epoxies,
when necessary.

3.) Don't be afraid to use brads, screws, etc... in inconspicuous
places.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

In article , wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any tips to share?

The following thoughts help my glue-ups be enjoyable experiences with
no rushing or surprises.

1.) Do practice runs without glue. Use lessons learned from the
practice "no-glue"-up to create subassemblies whenever possible. The
practice runs will also set your clamps to length and double-check
that you've got everything handy. If it's ultra involved, write
yourself a procedure.

2.) Use slower drying glues, like Titebond Extend or slow epoxies,
when necessary.

3.) Don't be afraid to use brads, screws, etc... in inconspicuous
places.

4) Get a helper. Even a four-year-old can follow instructions like "hand me
that clamp" or "here, hold this" or "tighten this knob".

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any tips to share?
The following thoughts help my glue-ups be enjoyable experiences with
no rushing or surprises.

1.) Do practice runs without glue. Use lessons learned from the
practice "no-glue"-up to create subassemblies whenever possible. The
practice runs will also set your clamps to length and double-check
that you've got everything handy. If it's ultra involved, write
yourself a procedure.

2.) Use slower drying glues, like Titebond Extend or slow epoxies,
when necessary.

3.) Don't be afraid to use brads, screws, etc... in inconspicuous
places.

4) Get a helper. Even a four-year-old can follow instructions like "hand me
that clamp" or "here, hold this" or "tighten this knob".

5) Build jigs and supports

6) Sometimes can rearrange to allow smaller subassemblies which are then
combined

On Jul 15, 12:51 pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any tips to share?

The following thoughts help my glue-ups be enjoyable experiences with
no rushing or surprises.

1.) Do practice runs without glue. Use lessons learned from the
practice "no-glue"-up to create subassemblies whenever possible. The
practice runs will also set your clamps to length and double-check
that you've got everything handy. If it's ultra involved, write
yourself a procedure.

2.) Use slower drying glues, like Titebond Extend or slow epoxies,
when necessary.

3.) Don't be afraid to use brads, screws, etc... in inconspicuous
places.

-- 4) Get a helper. Even a four-year-old can follow instructions like
"hand me
-- that clamp" or "here, hold this" or "tighten this knob".

I thought the purpose of woodworking was to get away from the four-
year-old. ;-)

In article .com, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 15, 12:51 pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

4) Get a helper. Even a four-year-old can follow instructions like
"hand me that clamp" or "here, hold this" or "tighten this knob".

I thought the purpose of woodworking was to get away from the four-
year-old. ;-)

Involve the four-year-old as much as you can. It pays dividends later.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

4) Cauls and clamp blocks can sometimes be taped into place so they
don't fall down while you're getting clamps on them.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email


B A R R Y wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any tips to share?

The following thoughts help my glue-ups be enjoyable experiences with
no rushing or surprises.

1.) Do practice runs without glue. Use lessons learned from the
practice "no-glue"-up to create subassemblies whenever possible. The
practice runs will also set your clamps to length and double-check
that you've got everything handy. If it's ultra involved, write
yourself a procedure.

2.) Use slower drying glues, like Titebond Extend or slow epoxies,
when necessary.

3.) Don't be afraid to use brads, screws, etc... in inconspicuous
places.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Jul 15, 6:55?pm, JeffB wrote:
4) Cauls and clamp blocks can sometimes be taped into place so they
don't fall down while you're getting clamps on them.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

B A R R Y wrote:



On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any tips to share?

The following thoughts help my glue-ups be enjoyable experiences with
no rushing or surprises.

1.) Do practice runs without glue. Use lessons learned from the
practice "no-glue"-up to create subassemblies whenever possible. The
practice runs will also set your clamps to length and double-check
that you've got everything handy. If it's ultra involved, write
yourself a procedure.

2.) Use slower drying glues, like Titebond Extend or slow epoxies,
when necessary.

3.) Don't be afraid to use brads, screws, etc... in inconspicuous
places.

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Become familiar with the many uses and possibilities of big rubber
bands.

FoggyTown

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?


I do a sequential practice clamp up, then take pictures with my
digital camera, print them off on regular paper, number any blocks
that are not square or have a custom fit to a clamp, mark the
clamping sequence (with the numbered blocks) on the pictures, then
take a deep breath and start the real glue up.

Frank

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Any tips to share?


Buy your wife a beer (to be shared AFTER she helps with the clamping.)

;-)


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:39:53 -0400, BillinDetroit
wrote:


Buy your wife a beer (to be shared AFTER she helps with the clamping.)

_YOU_ have balls...

Involving your wife in a glue up! G

That's almost as nice as having the wife catch long rips!

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

B A R R Y wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:39:53 -0400, BillinDetroit
wrote:


Buy your wife a beer (to be shared AFTER she helps with the clamping.)

_YOU_ have balls...

Involving your wife in a glue up! G

That's almost as nice as having the wife catch long rips!


It's not as dangerous as it sounds; I don't actually let her hold glue.

G

But, as far as those rips go, she has her own hearing protection and
respirator for exactly that reason! She's also handy for crosscutting
full panels and holding things while I skilsaw them down to manageable
sizes. She has even been known to clue me in to fallen trees in our
neighborhood. (I also turn.) A few months ago she assembled a dozen or
so keyfobs while I turned the rest of an order.

True fact ... I have a gem of a wife. Yes, she does have a sister ...
but I married the right one. Trust me.

Bill


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:50:11 -0400, BillinDetroit
wrote:


True fact ... I have a gem of a wife.

So do I. She's truly a sweetheart, fantastic teacher of little kids,
and terrific at lots of things.

Unfortunately, she is not so good with mechanical spatial
relationships, which hurts her utility in glue up assistance (as well
as navigating a car through strange places G).

She's absolutely terrified of power tools. We've tried and tried to
help her get comfortable with all kinds of safety gear, but a machine
shop environment still totally overloads her senses. With power
tools, I never know if she'll get a death grip or *suddenly let go* at
inopportune times. Both can be really bad, not knowing which will
happen at a given time is worse!

We've been married long enough to recognize where help from friends
and neighbors is valuable. Her, as well as her brother and sister's,
high school shop horrors make great "back in the day" stories, as all
of them are happy to have not lost any body parts.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 20:56:32 -0400, B A R R Y wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:39:53 -0400, BillinDetroit
wrote:


Buy your wife a beer (to be shared AFTER she helps with the clamping.)

_YOU_ have balls...

Involving your wife in a glue up! G

That's almost as nice as having the wife catch long rips!

You make those sound like BAD things... lol

I guess I'm lucky... the wife is a pretty good helper.
My guess is that her experience running a sharpening business gives her a basic
idea of what I'm doing, so she's a big help with clamping stuff while I try to
hold it, being my "cut off table", etc...

Then again, most of the flat work that I do is for HER, that could be
motivation..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:29:59 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?

There's a reason the Bessey style K clamps are popular. No pads
needed. The smaller and lighter uniklamps are good for the same
reason, and I really have to be desperate for a clamp before I'll
reach for a F instead of the uni's.

Beyond that, are you sure you're swearing with both enough frequency
and volume?


-Leuf

Leuf wrote:

Beyond that, are you sure you're swearing with both enough frequency
and volume?


-Leuf


If you swear too loud, the clamps develop a teflon hide and are even
harder to hold.

If it is taking you too long to do the clamp up, use a shorter epoxy.
Nothing will make 5 minutes fly by like quick-setting epoxy!

DAMHIKT (but I now know the maximum number of pen blanks I can glue up
from a single batch of 5-minute stuff.)

I can only get more glued up if I have a midget to point to the plane.

(cue Herve Villachez in a Lee Valley store ... hey Lee! Time for a TV spot!)

Scene opens
Clerk is stocking an aisle. A voice is heard: "The Plane, the plane!"
Clerk stands, looks around, looks puzzled (voice over about how
well-stocked a LV store is). Clerk kneels and starts to stock the shelf
again. The voice is heard again, this time saying "The saw, the saw!".
Cut to puzzled expression on clerks face again and then pan to Ricardo
Montebon (sp?) look-alike stifling a laugh.

Alternate ending:

Pull back to scene of videographers and director calling "cut, cut" and
turning to assistant saying "I thought I told you to get that guy outta
here!"

;-)

Bill

--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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Tip: Self aligning, self supporting joinery

And if you use mortise and tenon joints - chamfer the end
of the tenon so that it'll go into the mortise if you're close
rather than exactly dead on right. Also redues the chances
of splitting off the corner of a tenon while trying to get it
in the mortise. And if you can chamfer the edge of the
mortise it makes fitting things together easier.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/D...CBbench19.html

charlie b

charlieb wrote:
Tip: Self aligning, self supporting joinery

And if you use mortise and tenon joints - chamfer the end
of the tenon so that it'll go into the mortise if you're close
rather than exactly dead on right. Also redues the chances
of splitting off the corner of a tenon while trying to get it
in the mortise. And if you can chamfer the edge of the
mortise it makes fitting things together easier.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/D...CBbench19.html

charlie b

Good tip, Charlie. Not that any of my mortices have ever been
mis-aligned or anything.

;-)

Bill


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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In article . com,
says...
OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?

Get at least 6 more quickgrips. They are great for holding things together
lightly while you get the f-clamps with pads in place. AND they are actually
quite good in their own right where you don't need high clamping pressure.
AND they're single handed operation.

As they said, a second pair of hands to stop everything from falling over.
Has the disadvantage of restricting the use of Language ...

I've been known to build scaffolds where I couldn't do things any other way.
One advantage to not having the shop lined: in a pinch I can always tack a 4x1
to a stud to supply bracing. On the whole I'd rather have the lining, I think.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

DerbyDad03 wrote:
| OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
| have enough hands.
|
| I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the
| cauls, pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping
| something, missing my mark or just basically having a hard time
| lining everything up.
|
| Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens
| and a couple of QuickGrips.
|
| Any tips to share?

It's always good to have a few C-clamps handy.

I glue up a lot of right angle stuff. The aluminum face frame clamps
(they come in two types) are fantastic for this kind of clamping. I
have a photo of both types (along with a few C-clamps) in use in the
photos at the top of http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/SC_Madison.html

I try to keep a supply of allthread (threaded rod stock) and threaded
knobs in the shop for making special-purpose clamps. There's a photo
of one example at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/drawer_clamp.html

I've also tried to keep track of sources of clamp parts for building
clamps that aren't available off-the-shelf. There's a picture of a
clamp I use for splicing sheet goods at the top of
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/PT_Sign.html

I've built a few cam-type clamps out of 2x stock and aluminum angle,
screw type clamps that attach to t-track, vacuum clamps (for use with
a recycled refrigerator compressor as the vacuum pump), and a pile of
clamp extenders (which extend the "reach" of small clamps to hold work
bigger than the clamp). Don't be afraid to roll your own.

HTH

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects.

C-Clamps, lots of C-Clamps.

50-3", 40-4" and 30-6" will get you started.

I started with those, found I needed more.

YMMV.

Lew

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 06:40:42 GMT, Lew Hodgett wrote:



DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects.

C-Clamps, lots of C-Clamps.

50-3", 40-4" and 30-6" will get you started.

I started with those, found I needed more.

YMMV.

Lew

The OP really didn't say WHAT he was gluing up...

I've been doing book shelves and the like lately, and bought 2 pairs of these:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...73&cat=1,43838

They're not really "clamps", they just hold enough to let you align the pieces
and hold them until you can really clamp or fasten them...
Nice because they're "one handed"....


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Sun, Jul 15, 2007, 9:29am (EDT-3) (DerbyDad03) doh
lamet:
OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't have
enough hands.

A couple of brads, just until the clamp is set. LMAO



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 14:28:52 -0400, (J T) wrote:

Sun, Jul 15, 2007, 9:29am (EDT-3) (DerbyDad03) doh
lamet:
OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't have
enough hands.

A couple of brads, just until the clamp is set. LMAO



yep... the latex paint will hide the holes...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Jul 15, 12:29 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?

Thicker cauls require fewer clamps. Jorgenson F-clamps
go on before Bessey F-clamps.

The Lee Valley little one hander black plastic corner/ T clampish
things help compensate for being limited to only two hands.

Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
At about a buck a pound, they're kind of handy for holding things
down and when stacked, holding things up. And they don't mark
the wood, or even if there's a finish on it. If you don't want to
keep it in bags then put it in a completely lock miter joined box
and add a handle.
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/L...MiterBox1.html

charlie b

In article , wrote:

Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
At about a buck a pound, they're kind of handy for holding things
down and when stacked, holding things up. And they don't mark
the wood, or even if there's a finish on it.

I'm stealing that idea. Thanks, Charlie.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Mon, Jul 16, 2007, 3:15pm (EDT-3) (charlieb) doth
sayeth:
snip Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
snip

Gots no bags of lead shot, but got some smal lead ingos. You can
wrap them in cloth if marring is a problem. They stack nicely too. You
can make them from tire weights, printer lead, whatever scrap lead you
can scrounge. Quite handy indeed.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Mon, Jul 16, 2007, 3:15pm (EDT-3) (charlieb) doth
sayeth:
snip Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
snip

Damn, hit send before I was ready.

You can also use bricks, but I'd definitely wrap 'em in cloth
first. Personally I prefer the little lead ingots like use, but
sometimes you've just got to use what you've got. I have used squares
of wood on occassion, but you've usuall got to stack it high to get
enough weight, and there's always te danger of knocking it over, and
having to pick it up again.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 15:15:36 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.

As are chrome plated weightlifting plates.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

charlieb wrote:

| Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
| At about a buck a pound, they're kind of handy for holding things
| down and when stacked, holding things up. And they don't mark
| the wood, or even if there's a finish on it. If you don't want to
| keep it in bags then put it in a completely lock miter joined box
| and add a handle.
| http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/L...MiterBox1.html

I sometimes fill Folgers plastic coffee "cans" with gravel. They don't
mark the wood and the weight is easily adjustable. The "cans" have
molded-in handles.

But they're much better at holding things down than they are at
holding things up.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/interest.html

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 04:21:28 -0500, "Morris Dovey" wrote:

charlieb wrote:

| Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
| At about a buck a pound, they're kind of handy for holding things
| down and when stacked, holding things up. And they don't mark
| the wood, or even if there's a finish on it. If you don't want to
| keep it in bags then put it in a completely lock miter joined box
| and add a handle.
| http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/L...MiterBox1.html

I sometimes fill Folgers plastic coffee "cans" with gravel. They don't
mark the wood and the weight is easily adjustable. The "cans" have
molded-in handles.

But they're much better at holding things down than they are at
holding things up.

I sense a DAMHIKT in there, Morris...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
| On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 04:21:28 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
| wrote:
|
|| charlieb wrote:
||
||| Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
||| At about a buck a pound, they're kind of handy for holding things
||| down and when stacked, holding things up. And they don't mark
||| the wood, or even if there's a finish on it. If you don't want to
||| keep it in bags then put it in a completely lock miter joined box
||| and add a handle.
||| http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/L...MiterBox1.html
||
|| I sometimes fill Folgers plastic coffee "cans" with gravel. They
|| don't mark the wood and the weight is easily adjustable. The
|| "cans" have molded-in handles.
||
|| But they're much better at holding things down than they are at
|| holding things up.
|
| I sense a DAMHIKT in there, Morris...

NBD. If I wanted 'em to hold something _up_, I'd fill 'em with
concrete. Most of the stuff I work on in my shop is heavier than I'd
set on top of a thin poly cylinder.

Just about everything in my shop that supports work will support at
least triple my weight, and (neener) most of those work supports have
wheels.

Sadly, only the saw has wings.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On 16 Jul, 18:15, charlieb wrote:
The Lee Valley little one hander black plastic corner/ T clampish
things help compensate for being limited to only two hands.

Another less than obvious "holding device" is a bag of lead shot.
At about a buck a pound, they're kind of handy for holding things
down and when stacked, holding things up. And they don't mark
the wood, or even if there's a finish on it. If you don't want to
keep it in bags then put it in a completely lock miter joined box
and add a handle.http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/L...MiterBox1.html

charlie b

Thanks! I've got hundreds of pounds of steel plate weights for Soap
Box Derby cars (thus the nickname!) They range from 1/2# to 12# and I
do use them as "counterbalances" on occasion, using a rag as cushion.
I just have to be very careful not to drop them on the project, or my
foot.

On Jul 16, 5:33 pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jul 15, 12:29 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?

-- Jorgenson F-clamps go on before Bessey F-clamps.

I've never used a Bessey F-clamp. Seen 'em though.

What's the major difference and why do the J's go on before the B's?

On Jul 17, 3:46 am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 16, 5:33 pm, Father Haskell wrote: On Jul 15, 12:29 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

OK, so I don't really have too many clamps, but I definitely don't
have enough hands.

I'm looking for some tips on clamping up projects. Between the cauls,
pads, parts, angles, etc. it seems I'm always dropping something,
missing my mark or just basically having a hard time lining everything
up.

Most of my clamps are steel f-clamps with a few wooden Jorgensens and
a couple of QuickGrips.

Any tips to share?

-- Jorgenson F-clamps go on before Bessey F-clamps.

I've never used a Bessey F-clamp. Seen 'em though.

What's the major difference and why do the J's go on before the B's?

Besseys aren't nearly as delicate. I actually used one as a prybar
to jimmy a tiedown chain free from under a pile of demolition trash
on a 63 Chevy flatbed, without bending it. Jorgensons are lighter,
and easier to work with one hand while the other struggles to hold a
stack of heavily glued 2" laminate plies together.