I recently bought an old Boice Crane model 640 12" thickness planer
that was in serious need of an overhaul.

The overhaul is now nearly complete. I've reached the step where I'm
putting the blades back into the cutter head.

There is easy access to the head and cutters from the top of the unit
but access to the business side of the blades is extremely limited due
to a couple of cast iron blade guards.

I'm considering purchasing a planer gage but I haven't done it yet
because I can't figure out how to use it.

Should I buy a planer gage or how would you go about setting the
knives on this (or any) thickness planer?


Gary

wrote:
I recently bought an old Boice Crane model 640 12" thickness planer
that was in serious need of an overhaul.

The overhaul is now nearly complete. I've reached the step where I'm
putting the blades back into the cutter head.

There is easy access to the head and cutters from the top of the unit
but access to the business side of the blades is extremely limited due
to a couple of cast iron blade guards.

I'm considering purchasing a planer gage but I haven't done it yet
because I can't figure out how to use it.

Should I buy a planer gage or how would you go about setting the
knives on this (or any) thickness planer?

The gages work ok, but you the old tried- and true method of using a
gauge block on the table works too.

Take a piece of stable hardwood roughly 2x4 size and use good chop saw
to cut to a convenient length w/ the grain (3" or so) at 90-deg angles
so ends are parallel. Notch one end to leave two smaller "legs" on the
sides so it stands readily upright on the table. Helps to chamfer the
edges of the other end to the knives don't have a square corner to but
against.

To use, lower the table and set the block under the cutterhead and then
rotate and adjust the knives to just nick the top of the block at bottom
dead center.

Use it w/ the Rockwell/Delta Model 13 of similar vintage/construction
and works well.

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