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Wayland
 
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Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

Hi all,

I've recently purchased my first Big Machine(tm) - a Delta 28-275 bandsaw
for $399 at Lowe's (a good deal, I think, and a humorous story in itself).
With Mark Duginske's book in hand, I'm in the early stages of tuning it up.

Having read the pros and cons of coplanar tracking, I've opted for that
route. Out of the box it was not bad - only about 1/16" from coplanar. It
only took one washer to bring the top wheel into plane. FWIW, the book
suggests using 5/8" washers to shim the wheel. At the hardware store I
found 5/8" machine bushings that were not only thinner (by about half) than
the standard washer, but were also much closer in size to the existing
bushing. Had I used the simple washer, I think the top wheel would have
been 1/16" out of coplanar in the other direction.

Since I needed to take the wheel off, I decided to go ahead and check the
wheel balance. After removing the blade, but before removing the nut
holding on the wheel, I gave the wheel a spin to find a heavy side, as
suggested in Mark's book. The wheel only rotated about 3/4 of a turn and
halted abruptly. There seemed to be a lot of friction on this thing. I
backed the nut off the axle a little and gave the wheel another spin. This
time the wheel spun freely and came to a very gradual stop. With the wheel
free to spin, I proceeded balance it. It was quite a bit out of balance so
I had to drop about 2.5 1/4" holes through the wheel casting. After putting
everything back together, my bandsaw now passes the nickel test. But there
are still improvements to be made.

Now then, I told ya all that to ask ya this. When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely (as it did after backing the nut off
slightly) or should it spin down quickly (as it did from the factory) or
does it not matter as long as the axle nut doesn't fall off? If I make the
nut finger tight, the wheel spins easily.

Thanks,
Wayland

PS. Hey Bill







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Andy Dingley
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 12:10:07 -0400, "Wayland"
wrote:

When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely


All rotating wheels mounted on a ball race should spin freely.

If they don't, and the ball race isn't broken, then something is
acting as a brake. Chances are that some sort of sideways clamping
device (like a nut on an axle) is not only clamping the centre race of
the bearing in place, but is also applying some braking force to the
outer race of the bearing, or the dust shield. Now this is bad,
because the bearing probably isn't set up to be dealing with an axial
load like this. Applying end-loads to plain ball bearings will cause
early failures, because the balls aren't running along the path in the
track which they ought to.

  #3   Report Post  
Ramsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

This is why you don't use a drill press for a milling machine or
lathe.


On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:31:08 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 12:10:07 -0400, "Wayland"
wrote:

When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely


All rotating wheels mounted on a ball race should spin freely.

If they don't, and the ball race isn't broken, then something is
acting as a brake. Chances are that some sort of sideways clamping
device (like a nut on an axle) is not only clamping the centre race of
the bearing in place, but is also applying some braking force to the
outer race of the bearing, or the dust shield. Now this is bad,
because the bearing probably isn't set up to be dealing with an axial
load like this. Applying end-loads to plain ball bearings will cause
early failures, because the balls aren't running along the path in the
track which they ought to.


  #4   Report Post  
Ramsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

Too many people do not know that bearings are designed to be used in a
particular manner. The gentleman was explaining what could cause a
failure and I merely thought of the several people I know who have
used a drillpress as a router/milling machine, lathe and then wondered
why the bearing wore out.
Se following comment today by individual on rec. woodworking

Ramsey wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Sat, Aug 23, 2003, 12:12pm (EDT-1) From:
(Ramsey)
Your bearing are designed to handle a thrust load-not a sideways load.
I
would not try. Sure, it might work for a while but when it didn't,
then
you have a major problem. snip
************************************************** ****
Ramsey is correct. I ruined the bearings in a perfectly good drill
press
by using it as a router.

Peace~Sir Edgar
רררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררר






On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 11:23:14 -0700, Rico wrote:

Please explain the connection.

Ramsey wrote:
This is why you don't use a drill press for a milling machine or
lathe.


On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:31:08 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 12:10:07 -0400, "Wayland"
wrote:

When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely

All rotating wheels mounted on a ball race should spin freely.

If they don't, and the ball race isn't broken, then something is
acting as a brake. Chances are that some sort of sideways clamping
device (like a nut on an axle) is not only clamping the centre race of
the bearing in place, but is also applying some braking force to the
outer race of the bearing, or the dust shield. Now this is bad,
because the bearing probably isn't set up to be dealing with an axial
load like this. Applying end-loads to plain ball bearings will cause
early failures, because the balls aren't running along the path in the
track which they ought to.





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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  #5   Report Post  
not hardly
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

would that also apply to using the drill press with sanding
sleeves/micro planes or is the pressure within tolerances?

BRuce

Ramsey wrote:

Too many people do not know that bearings are designed to be used in a
particular manner. The gentleman was explaining what could cause a
failure and I merely thought of the several people I know who have
used a drillpress as a router/milling machine, lathe and then wondered
why the bearing wore out.
Se following comment today by individual on rec. woodworking

Ramsey wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Sat, Aug 23, 2003, 12:12pm (EDT-1) From:
(Ramsey)
Your bearing are designed to handle a thrust load-not a sideways load.
I
would not try. Sure, it might work for a while but when it didn't,
then
you have a major problem. snip
************************************************** ****
Ramsey is correct. I ruined the bearings in a perfectly good drill
press
by using it as a router.

Peace~Sir Edgar
רררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררר






On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 11:23:14 -0700, Rico wrote:


Please explain the connection.

Ramsey wrote:

This is why you don't use a drill press for a milling machine or
lathe.


On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:31:08 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:


On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 12:10:07 -0400, "Wayland"
wrote:


When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely

All rotating wheels mounted on a ball race should spin freely.

If they don't, and the ball race isn't broken, then something is
acting as a brake. Chances are that some sort of sideways clamping
device (like a nut on an axle) is not only clamping the centre race of
the bearing in place, but is also applying some braking force to the
outer race of the bearing, or the dust shield. Now this is bad,
because the bearing probably isn't set up to be dealing with an axial
load like this. Applying end-loads to plain ball bearings will cause
early failures, because the balls aren't running along the path in the
track which they ought to.



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----






  #6   Report Post  
Ramsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

That is a good question. I think it would but I do it also. That is on
an intermittant basis so I hope it won't. The principle is the same so
if you do it a lot, my guess is that it will. I found the neatest
little vertical drum sander on Ebay several years ago called the
Praire Proto ar something similiar. I use it exclusively now. It does
not go up and down but you can move the drum up and down. it only
costs something like $75 and is some of my better spent money. It has
a stainless steel table and you can put different size drums on it.
I will try to find the number a post it.




On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 18:36:13 -0400, "not hardly" "not
wrote:

would that also apply to using the drill press with sanding
sleeves/micro planes or is the pressure within tolerances?

BRuce

Ramsey wrote:

Too many people do not know that bearings are designed to be used in a
particular manner. The gentleman was explaining what could cause a
failure and I merely thought of the several people I know who have
used a drillpress as a router/milling machine, lathe and then wondered
why the bearing wore out.
Se following comment today by individual on rec. woodworking

Ramsey wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Sat, Aug 23, 2003, 12:12pm (EDT-1) From:
(Ramsey)
Your bearing are designed to handle a thrust load-not a sideways load.
I
would not try. Sure, it might work for a while but when it didn't,
then
you have a major problem. snip
************************************************** ****
Ramsey is correct. I ruined the bearings in a perfectly good drill
press
by using it as a router.

Peace~Sir Edgar
רררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררר






On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 11:23:14 -0700, Rico wrote:


Please explain the connection.

Ramsey wrote:

This is why you don't use a drill press for a milling machine or
lathe.


On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:31:08 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:


On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 12:10:07 -0400, "Wayland"
wrote:


When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely

All rotating wheels mounted on a ball race should spin freely.

If they don't, and the ball race isn't broken, then something is
acting as a brake. Chances are that some sort of sideways clamping
device (like a nut on an axle) is not only clamping the centre race of
the bearing in place, but is also applying some braking force to the
outer race of the bearing, or the dust shield. Now this is bad,
because the bearing probably isn't set up to be dealing with an axial
load like this. Applying end-loads to plain ball bearings will cause
early failures, because the balls aren't running along the path in the
track which they ought to.



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----




  #7   Report Post  
not hardly
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bandsaw Tuning #1

thanks, I have a BOSS sander so don't do this on the DP but have thought
about the micro planner when I need some thing a little more aggressive.
I guess what I need to do is look into making an adapter for the BOSS.
I don't like the BOSS but it does the job for now.

BRuce

Ramsey wrote:

That is a good question. I think it would but I do it also. That is on
an intermittant basis so I hope it won't. The principle is the same so
if you do it a lot, my guess is that it will. I found the neatest
little vertical drum sander on Ebay several years ago called the
Praire Proto ar something similiar. I use it exclusively now. It does
not go up and down but you can move the drum up and down. it only
costs something like $75 and is some of my better spent money. It has
a stainless steel table and you can put different size drums on it.
I will try to find the number a post it.




On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 18:36:13 -0400, "not hardly" "not
wrote:


would that also apply to using the drill press with sanding
sleeves/micro planes or is the pressure within tolerances?

BRuce

Ramsey wrote:


Too many people do not know that bearings are designed to be used in a
particular manner. The gentleman was explaining what could cause a
failure and I merely thought of the several people I know who have
used a drillpress as a router/milling machine, lathe and then wondered
why the bearing wore out.
Se following comment today by individual on rec. woodworking

Ramsey wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Sat, Aug 23, 2003, 12:12pm (EDT-1) From:
(Ramsey)
Your bearing are designed to handle a thrust load-not a sideways load.
I
would not try. Sure, it might work for a while but when it didn't,
then
you have a major problem. snip
*********************************************** *******
Ramsey is correct. I ruined the bearings in a perfectly good drill
press
by using it as a router.

Peace~Sir Edgar
רררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררררר






On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 11:23:14 -0700, Rico wrote:



Please explain the connection.

Ramsey wrote:


This is why you don't use a drill press for a milling machine or
lathe.


On Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:31:08 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:



On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 12:10:07 -0400, "Wayland"
wrote:



When the blade is off, should
the top wheel on a bandsaw spin freely

All rotating wheels mounted on a ball race should spin freely.

If they don't, and the ball race isn't broken, then something is
acting as a brake. Chances are that some sort of sideways clamping
device (like a nut on an axle) is not only clamping the centre race of
the bearing in place, but is also applying some braking force to the
outer race of the bearing, or the dust shield. Now this is bad,
because the bearing probably isn't set up to be dealing with an axial
load like this. Applying end-loads to plain ball bearings will cause
early failures, because the balls aren't running along the path in the
track which they ought to.


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----




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