No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials. 1 part for materials, 1 part for tooling costs (sharpenings,
maintenance, etc...) and 1 part profit. So, if someone wants an outdoor
piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and you quote it, and the
customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but before you purchase materials,
decides they want it out of ipe', do you keep your labor charge the same and
just pass on the materials savings to her? By the way, teak is going for
$20+ bf and ipe is, well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

jc

"Joe" wrote in
. net:

No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials. 1 part for materials, 1 part for tooling costs
(sharpenings, maintenance, etc...) and 1 part profit. So, if someone
wants an outdoor piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and
you quote it, and the customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but
before you purchase materials, decides they want it out of ipe', do
you keep your labor charge the same and just pass on the materials
savings to her? By the way, teak is going for $20+ bf and ipe is,
well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

jc



I've got no idea what I would actually do. However, in respect to your
question, what would you do if your customer asked for Ipe and then
changed her mind to Teak?

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Joe" wrote in message
. net...
No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials. 1 part for materials, 1 part for tooling costs (sharpenings,
maintenance, etc...) and 1 part profit. So, if someone wants an outdoor
piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and you quote it, and the
customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but before you purchase
materials, decides they want it out of ipe', do you keep your labor charge
the same and just pass on the materials savings to her? By the way, teak
is going for $20+ bf and ipe is, well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

jc



Generally I charge 4 to 5 time my total cost of materials and supplies with
Oak being the base price material for the wood for furniture and PT lumber
being the base price material for out door materials. If they want
better.more expensive materials I charge the same labor price and charge
more for the material.

"Joe" wrote in message
. net...
No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials. 1 part for materials, 1 part for tooling costs (sharpenings,
maintenance, etc...) and 1 part profit. So, if someone wants an outdoor
piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and you quote it, and the
customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but before you purchase
materials, decides they want it out of ipe', do you keep your labor charge
the same and just pass on the materials savings to her? By the way, teak
is going for $20+ bf and ipe is, well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

jc

Very easy to answer. Pricing at 3X material is just plain wrong, stupid, and
I'd never do it. My industry used to do that as a practice. The ones that
continued to do so are no longer in business. Your theoretical question is
a perfect example of how pricing strictly on material cost can get you into
trouble.

Using your example of materials, lets say Ipe is $5 versus the $20 of teak,
versus $2 for pine. Actual labor will be one hour. What do you charge?
Material should be marked up since you have to lay out your money, your time
to order and receive the material is an overhead factor. Add in labor.
Your labor rate has to include all costs, including taxes, health insurance,
etc. Put all of this together and you can have a price.

Using your 3X method, if the job used one board foot of material, you'd
charge the customer either $15, $60, or $6. At $6 you'd certainly go out of
business and be broke. At $60, it may work out.

Change this to the same one hour of labor, but now we need 5 board ft. of
material. Using the 3X methods, you'd price at $75, $300, or $30. Both
the teak and pine could put you out of business. Why the teak you ask? The
market for the $300 item is very small so you'd have no orders to bill.

Getting back to your original question, if you know your costs, you know how
much is material, then your customer asks for a change. Do you give it all
back? Probably not, but certainly there would be an adjustment. I'd be
confident though, that I'd still be making a profit based on my quote that
includes actual labor and overhead.

Not considered here is another material factor to introduce. Teak is tough
on blades so I'd factor that in also. Same with any other wood that may
have workability issues.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

Joe wrote:
So, if someone wants an outdoor
piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and you quote it, and the
customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but before you purchase materials,
decides they want it out of ipe', do you keep your labor charge the same and
just pass on the materials savings to her? By the way, teak is going for
$20+ bf and ipe is, well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

Add a 15% surcharge to cover change order.

Lew

Tue, Apr 24, 2007, 9:41pm (Edwin*Pawlowski) did say a
whollle load of stuff that pertains:

Plus, labor costs in different parts of the country will vary -
widely at times. Wood prices can vary widely in diffrent parts too.
Loads of vaiables.



JOAT
Expensive tennis shoes won't cure a sore toe.
- Bazooka Joe

Joe wrote:
No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials.

No, it's really not.


Well, what would *you* do?

I figure out my fixed shop and production costs (tooling, taxes,
insurance, utilites, hourly labor, and the rest) and add a profit margin
to develop an hourly "loaded rate". This is the billed rate which is
added to materials costs.

Business 101, it's done every day.

On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 21:06:46 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials. 1 part for materials, 1 part for tooling costs (sharpenings,
maintenance, etc...) and 1 part profit. So, if someone wants an outdoor
piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and you quote it, and the
customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but before you purchase materials,
decides they want it out of ipe', do you keep your labor charge the same and
just pass on the materials savings to her? By the way, teak is going for
$20+ bf and ipe is, well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

jc


The higher cost material must be passed on to the customer. However,
I would not charge 3x material cost. Teak wears down cutting tools
quickly, so there may be additional charges there. Material costs
vary greatly depending on location, shipping costs, supply, and
vendor. I'd advise customers about wood that exceeds $10/bf, unless
the project uses very little wood.

##################################

What is IPE material ? First I have heard of it.

Smitty


################################################## ######



On Apr 24, 11:49 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

. net...



No, it's not "how much should I charge".

Here's a (somewhat) hypothetical question.

One good way of pricing items that don't require a lot of technical
expertise, fancy joinery, mixed media, etc... is to charge 3 times
materials. 1 part for materials, 1 part for tooling costs (sharpenings,
maintenance, etc...) and 1 part profit. So, if someone wants an outdoor
piece, a *large* outdoor piece, made out of teak and you quote it, and the
customer doesn't faint, but then, later, but before you purchase
materials, decides they want it out of ipe', do you keep your labor charge
the same and just pass on the materials savings to her? By the way, teak
is going for $20+ bf and ipe is, well, not.

Well, what would *you* do?

jc

Generally I charge 4 to 5 time my total cost of materials and supplies with
Oak being the base price material for the wood for furniture and PT lumber
being the base price material for out door materials. If they want
better.more expensive materials I charge the same labor price and charge
more for the material.

wrote in message
oups.com...
##################################

What is IPE material ? First I have heard of it.

Smitty


Ipe is a hardwood from Brazil. Often used for flooring and decks. It
should last a very long time, about 50 years, on a deck.

" wrote in
oups.com:

*trim*


What is IPE material ? First I have heard of it.

Smitty

*snip*

IPE is an acryonym. It means "It's Prohibitively Expensive". ;-)

Hm... if teak's kinda knotty, it could stand for "Terribly Expensive and
Knotty". I don't know, never seen anything identified as teak. (and I
don't want to SOG -- Search On Google.)

Of course, PINE means "Probably Is Not Expensive".

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

wrote in message
oups.com...
##################################

What is IPE material ? First I have heard of it.


An Ironwood from South and Central America and Mexico. Dark brown wood with
a yellowey green dust that turns blood red when your sweat touches it. Very
heavy and dense and hard. About 2.5 rimes harder than Oak. It is reported
to last 50 years outdoors with no protective coating and is a popular
material used for decking. It is commonly found in 5/4 x 6" dimension
format. When sanded there is little chance for splintering.

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...
" wrote in
oups.com:

*trim*


What is IPE material ? First I have heard of it.

Smitty

*snip*

IPE is an acryonym. It means "It's Prohibitively Expensive". ;-)

Actually, in the Houston area Ipe is priced between Red Oak and Walnut.
Very reasonably priced.

I don't have a remote, earthly clue why in the world someone would
price a project that carries labor, taxes, site overhead, (sometimes)
insurance, tool maintenance and repair, office rent, office costs, tax
preparation and bookkeeping costs, fuel, vehicle cost and maintenance
and on and on on just materials.

I would love to have someone do that for me.

I would have to try it out. I could buy a bunch of seconds of PT 2X4
and have them make prefab trellis for me. Rip all the wood down to
1/4" and put them all together for the price of a couple of 2X4s and
some brads.

Cool.

I hope you can spread that method down here...

Robert

"Leon" wrote in news:3aWXh.5835$2v1.217
@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net:

*snip*


IPE is an acryonym. It means "It's Prohibitively Expensive". ;-)

Actually, in the Houston area Ipe is priced between Red Oak and Walnut.
Very reasonably priced.


"It's Pleasingly Entertaining"?
"Interesting Plus Exciting"?
"It's Priced Expertly"?

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Subject

What is the selling price of a 100W incandescent lamp these days,
$0.75 or so.

Think there is more than $0.02 worth of material involved to make that
lamp.

Must be an easy way to get rich. Should be lots of competitors, but
there are only a few.

Wonder why?

Maybe it is the fact that you need a very special chain to be able to
cast the glass envelope at a competitive price, and you better have a
spare to install and run during a turn around.

That special chain had a cost of over $800,000 in the early 70's.

Today it is probably closer to $1,250,000.

Need to sell a lot of lamps to recover that type of investment.

3 times material cost doesn't get the job done.

Lew



Lew

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...
"Leon" wrote in news:3aWXh.5835$2v1.217
@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net:

*snip*


IPE is an acryonym. It means "It's Prohibitively Expensive". ;-)

Actually, in the Houston area Ipe is priced between Red Oak and Walnut.
Very reasonably priced.


"It's Pleasingly Entertaining"?
"Interesting Plus Exciting"?
"It's Priced Expertly"?


"That's" better.... ;~)

On Apr 26, 12:50 am, "
wrote:
I don't have a remote, earthly clue why in the world someone would
price a project that carries labor, taxes, site overhead, (sometimes)
insurance, tool maintenance and repair, office rent, office costs, tax
preparation and bookkeeping costs, fuel, vehicle cost and maintenance
and on and on on just materials.

I completely agree. If you are doing this full time, you need to
consider all costs you identified above, plus one more - If you are
doing the work yourself, you are not going to be able to do 40 hours
of billable work a week, since you need time for sales, picking up
supplies, doing administrative work, etc. If you have staff working
for you, their labour cost has to include overhead, including you.
(See, you get big enough to have staff and you become overhead!)

So, if you wanted to earn $X a year, you need to figure how many
actual hours you will spend directly on projects and how many you
spend on other things (including vacation). Also consider your mark-up
on supplies and materials. Then figure out a reasonable rate. Then
throw it all out and charge as much as you can get away with. Just
kidding, but there is some truth to it. Your cost analysis you use to
establish a price should just be a guideline. The price will depend on
other factors such as market, competition, your reputation, etc.

Michel
www.woodstoneproductions.com
Woodworking Portal

Michel wrote:
Then figure out a reasonable rate. Then
throw it all out and charge as much as you can get away with. Just
kidding, but there is some truth to it. Your cost analysis you use to
establish a price should just be a guideline.

Absolutely!

The most important reason to know the true cost of doing business is to
be able to know when a job isn't worth doing. You can sometimes mark up
a price to what the market will bear, and when you can, you probably
should, but when you need to seriously compete, you need valid cost
data. Sometimes, a job (or even the entire business) might not be
viable at all, even though the gross numbers can be huge.

Another stupid business mistake, almost as bad as blindly linking labor
cost to material cost, is price adjustments at the wrong time. Many
people, especially trade and craftspeople with no business background,
will raise prices when they need more money and don't have enough work.
The best time to raise prices is when you have too much work, and
lower them (to a point, based on your data mentioned earlier) when you
want to attract more.

I would suggest that people wanting to operate real businesses who still
don't really understand this stuff seek out the local Chamber of
Commerce, community college small business courses, and S.C.O.R.E.
(Service Corps of Retired Executives).