storiesr wrote:

Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished maple
cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel.
Have tried way too many options for staining with no success at all.

1. Water based raises the grain too much; why sand all over again when they
came nice and smooth?
2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.
3. Am told that I should not condiiton it.
4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to an hour
and then it is gumming whenI remove it.
5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well.

Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does not want to
take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they say they
have never had this complaint before.

I am getting very frustated.

Take a door down to a good woodworking or paint store and ask about dye
stains. A decent shop will let you try before you buy. Maple is about
the most difficult wood to get stain into.

If you don't like "blotchy", take the maple back and get oak ) Maple
usually has a "curly" grain.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/fe...ea.asp?id=1097

http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?CommentID=168

"Norminn" wrote in message
link.net...
storiesr wrote:

Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished maple
cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel.
Have tried way too many options for staining with no success at all. 1.
Water based raises the grain too much; why sand all over again when they
came nice and smooth?
2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.
3. Am told that I should not condiiton it.
4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to an
hour
and then it is gumming whenI remove it.
5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well.

Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does not
want to
take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they say
they
have never had this complaint before.

I am getting very frustated.

Take a door down to a good woodworking or paint store and ask about dye
stains. A decent shop will let you try before you buy. Maple is about
the most difficult wood to get stain into.

If you don't like "blotchy", take the maple back and get oak ) Maple
usually has a "curly" grain.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/fe...ea.asp?id=1097

http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?CommentID=168

Well, first you have to find exactly what type of maple you got.
Real sap maple will take some degree of stain.
I myself to not use stain anymore.
If it is real maple I suggest you use Tung oil as the first coat on a test
piece.
First start sanding with 120 grit then wash it with water to raise the
grain.
Then after the wood is dry begin sanding with 150 grit and work you way up
to 220 and even 320.
After that apply a coat of Tung oil. This should give it a little honey
tone.
Once it is dry apply a coat of Danish oil as directed. Let dry for 24 hours
and use an ultra fine steel wool to give an uniformed finish then apply and
another coat of Danish oil. If you feel like it you may apply a third coat.
Once the test piece is finish you and your wife can decide if you like it or
not.
Real maple is too nice of a wood to be stained.

I've had good luck using tinted shellack as a base coat. After a light
sanding, apply your fovorite top coats. Shellack comes in several natural
tints and can be tinted easily with commercial tints.