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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
wrote in message
oups.com... I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use only", according to the product specs. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use only", according to the product specs. Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use only", according to the product specs. Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use only", according to the product specs. Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
Oh, and don't hold me to those percentages above; they were changed to
protect the stupid. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
On Apr 9, 10:25 am, wrote:
Oh, and don't hold me to those percentages above; they were changed to protect the stupid. Ever hear the one about honey, vinegar, and flies? Or beggars/ choosers? Lighten up, eh? J |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
Yeah, sorry if I was a little too rough... some usenet posters can be
jerks and that starts to rub off on ya. Once I reread the statement it doesn't sound too bad; I suppose I replied the way I did because I wasn't asking whether I should or not but how to. Anyways, I already contacted Bonakemi and told them I am a DIY and would like some pointers. They gave me no guff and were very helpful including sending me a PowerPoint presentation and a video on how to apply Traffic. So consider this question answered. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
On Apr 9, 5:33 pm, Tanus wrote:
wrote: On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" wrote: wrote in message groups.com... I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use only", according to the product specs. Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer. In many respects, that's precisely what todd gave you: constructive response. If the mfgr recommends that only the pros do the job, then maybe that's what should be done. There are times when a man can't - or shouldn't - do a certain job. Maybe this is one of those times. Or maybe you're just going to flip me off too. Tanus -- This is not really a sig. http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/ How does one become a professional - by asking questions and learning. A professional was once in the same boat as myself. I know I have the common sense, patience, and hunger to learn correctly so I'd rather learn myself with the possibility of making a mistake than to pay a professional without considering my own outcome and contemplating trying. If I felt I was over my head I would have definitely called a professional but I felt I could easily do it myself if I had clarification on a few points. I hope you understand my point of view. Thanks. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
wrote in message
ups.com... On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" wrote: wrote in message oups.com... I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic. I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides. I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also ask questions. Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed: 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3 what roles for each 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the rest of the room? 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side). 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling up near the walls. 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this river refreshed? If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you contribute. Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use only", according to the product specs. Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer. Look, I'm all for figuring things out for my own, believe me. I've done all kinds of my own work around the house, sometimes to my wife's chagrin because it obviously takes me longer than a pro. I just don't think this is the project to "figure it out" on. You're gonna get one shot to do this correctly, unless you enjoy purchasing gallons of Traffic. And at nearly $100/gallon, that may be one expensive lesson. You'll forgive me if I doubted your ability to "figure it out" while you're asking for someone to write you "a detailed how-to". Personally, I don't think every project lends itself to DIY. This is one of the few I chose to farm out after looking at it. I had a relatively small area (~350 sq ft). My guy put the sealer and three coats of Traffic on for $300. I figured by the time I bought the product (~$200+), the proper applicator, and the other sundries, it really didn't make sense for me to do it myself if I was even thinking of doing so. But hey, it's your money. Spend it however you wish. todd |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
wrote in message
oups.com... How does one become a professional - by asking questions and learning. A professional was once in the same boat as myself. I know I have the common sense, patience, and hunger to learn correctly so I'd rather learn myself with the possibility of making a mistake than to pay a professional without considering my own outcome and contemplating trying. If I felt I was over my head I would have definitely called a professional but I felt I could easily do it myself if I had clarification on a few points. I hope you understand my point of view. Thanks. Here's the difference. A professional very likely had something you don't...someone to show you how it's done. It's one thing to read about how it's done...it's quite another to experience it in person. Personally, I didn't find the risk/reward to be favorable. FWIW, if you choose to do it, I hope it works out. todd |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
todd wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... How does one become a professional - by asking questions and learning. A professional was once in the same boat as myself. I know I have the common sense, patience, and hunger to learn correctly so I'd rather learn myself with the possibility of making a mistake than to pay a professional without considering my own outcome and contemplating trying. If I felt I was over my head I would have definitely called a professional but I felt I could easily do it myself if I had clarification on a few points. I hope you understand my point of view. Thanks. Here's the difference. A professional very likely had something you don't...someone to show you how it's done. It's one thing to read about how it's done...it's quite another to experience it in person. Personally, I didn't find the risk/reward to be favorable. FWIW, if you choose to do it, I hope it works out. todd That was my point too. However, I was surprised that after you had called the company, they supported your decision to go ahead and do it yourself. I'd gone to the site and read the same instructions that todd had and I figured they would discourage anyone who wasn't trained to do it themselves. As todd said, I hope it works out for you. Tanus -- This is not really a sig. http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/ |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
Hey thanks guys for your concerns and handling of the situation well.
The reason I asked for a detailed how-to was not because I needed one but that it would give me the best basis to peck from for tidbits of what I don't know. I also thought it would help aggregate the snippets here and there out on different forums regarding applying Bonakemi Traffic for the DIY. I will let you know how it goes... here's one for learning from the Father for with Him a little common sense and faith goes a LONG ways. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
Hey thanks guys for your considerations and for handling this
situation well. Just to clarify I didn't ask for a detailed how-to because I didn't know anything about it but instead asked for a detailed how-to for clarification and aggregation purposes. I felt a complete how-to would allow me to peck at the parts I wanted clarification on and I thought it would be nice to have one solid place to have the entire how-to for DIY. I'll let you know how it goes... here's one for learning from the Father because with Him a little common sense and faith goes a LONG way. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
Well, I'm not sure if any of my replies are going through so sorry for
this message and any double post I may have given. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Detailed How-To: Bonakemi Traffic
We just finished putting down two coats of the Traffic tonight -
everything went really well and looks great! I'm glad we got to practice with the BonaSeal though as I learned techniques while using that. I must say though that the BonaSeal is more difficult to put down than the Traffic. BonaSeal is very thin and the river runs out fast whereas the Traffic is quite thick and it glides so smoothly; it seems to take a while for the river to run out. We're definitely looking forward to sleeping in our beds again! |
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