As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl combo
for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just ain't
cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood through
the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After about the
tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again while ripping 7"
off a 10" wide by 32" long board. The board was in the rough and must have
had some tension. Times like that I miss the old 1 1/2hp contractor saw.
At the start of a kickback, I could just hold the board tight and stall the
saw while turning it off. Ain't gonna happen with the new 3 hp. I had to
bail and let it go. And boy did it go! Right through the back window of
the shop and about 30ft. into the back yard. It took a #4 smoother that was
sitting on the window sill with it. Damn good thing I knew what was about to
happen. I posted a pic of the window on APBW.
Anyway, any suggestions for a REAL splitter are needed. And I don't mind
spending some money on it. Gotta be cheaper that a new windows (or worse.)
Thanks all! --dave

On Apr 5, 4:05 pm, "Dave Jackson" wrote:
As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl combo
for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just ain't
cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood through
the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After about the
tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again while ripping 7"
off a 10" wide by 32" long board. The board was in the rough and must have
had some tension. Times like that I miss the old 1 1/2hp contractor saw.
At the start of a kickback, I could just hold the board tight and stall the
saw while turning it off. Ain't gonna happen with the new 3 hp. I had to
bail and let it go. And boy did it go! Right through the back window of
the shop and about 30ft. into the back yard. It took a #4 smoother that was
sitting on the window sill with it. Damn good thing I knew what was about to
happen. I posted a pic of the window on APBW.
Anyway, any suggestions for a REAL splitter are needed. And I don't mind
spending some money on it. Gotta be cheaper that a new windows (or worse.)
Thanks all! --dave

http://www.biesemeyer.com/safety/splitter.htm

Not sure of the Jet saw referenced is the contractor or 3 horse

I will add my recommendations for the Biesemeyer anlong with Brian and
Swingman. If your saw is on their list I think you'd be making a good
choice in buying it.

Marc

wrote in message


http://www.biesemeyer.com/safety/splitter.htm

Not sure of the Jet saw referenced is the contractor or 3 horse


Ditto ... I have the same splitter for the left tilt Unisaw. Easy to install
and removes and can be put back in seconds for non-through cuts.

I took the pawls off after a couple of years of use because they can cause
problems with thinner rips, but the splitter works just as effectively
without them.

Definitely recommended as at least one excellent solution, IME.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

"Dave Jackson" wrote in message
ink.net...
As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl
combo for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just
ain't cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood
through the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After
about the tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again
while ripping 7" off a 10" wide by 32" long board. The board was in the
rough and must have had some tension.

Well, there is your problem. You SHOULD NOT be ripping boards that are in
the rough on the TS.





Times like that I miss the old 1 1/2hp contractor saw.
At the start of a kickback, I could just hold the board tight and stall
the saw while turning it off. Ain't gonna happen with the new 3 hp. I
had to bail and let it go. And boy did it go!


Dave, I came from a 1 hp Craftsman and have been using the same Jet 3hp and
find just the opposite that you are witnessing. I have on numerous
occasions felt a kick back starting but with the extra power and a sharp
blade the blade simply cuts the wood instead to simply grabing and throwing
if you have a firm grip on the board to start with.





Right through the back window of
the shop and about 30ft. into the back yard. It took a #4 smoother that
was sitting on the window sill with it. Damn good thing I knew what was
about to happen. I posted a pic of the window on APBW.
Anyway, any suggestions for a REAL splitter are needed. And I don't mind
spending some money on it. Gotta be cheaper that a new windows (or
worse.) Thanks all! --dave

I have the Micro Jig also had have at times had the splitter come out. FYI
Micro Jig now has a plastic covered stainless steel splitter that should
work better as its posts are wider than the splitter. If you are using flat
wood, as you should be, the board should not allow the splitter to raise up
and let the splitter out.
Keep in mind also, with taller steel splitter you cannot use a jig like the
Grabber. The tall splitter will get in the way on some cutting operations.

Dave Jackson wrote:
As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl combo
for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just ain't
cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood through
the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After about the
tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again while ripping 7"
off a 10" wide by 32" long board. The board was in the rough and must have
had some tension. Times like that I miss the old 1 1/2hp contractor saw.
At the start of a kickback, I could just hold the board tight and stall the
saw while turning it off. Ain't gonna happen with the new 3 hp. I had to
bail and let it go. And boy did it go! Right through the back window of
the shop and about 30ft. into the back yard. It took a #4 smoother that was
sitting on the window sill with it. Damn good thing I knew what was about to
happen. I posted a pic of the window on APBW.
Anyway, any suggestions for a REAL splitter are needed. And I don't mind
spending some money on it. Gotta be cheaper that a new windows (or worse.)
Thanks all! --dave



I've got a couple of things to say here.
First of all, thanks to Dave for posting
this. Sometimes people post and get
jumped all over, and I appreciate
hearing from someone who seems very
knowledgeable but still has bad things
happen to him.

Second, although I'm an infrequent
poster to the Rec, I'm an avid reader.
Call it an addiction if you like. And
there are days when I read stuff here,
and don't get much out of the entire
session. Then there are days when a post
like this stops me in my tracks and
reminds me that I'm dealing with
machinery that can maim, dismember, or
kill me.

This kind of post makes it all worth it.
Thanks again, Dave

Tanus

--
This is not really a sig.

http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/

=====

In article . net,
Dave Jackson wrote:
As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl combo
for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just ain't
cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood through
the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After about the
tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again while ripping 7"
...snipped...


For first rip on rough lumber, why not use the stick Jet splitter & guard?
It will do the job, no need for zero clearance insert to rip a rough cut
board.


--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

"Dave Jackson" wrote in message
ink.net...
As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl
combo for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just
ain't cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood
through the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After
about the tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again
while ripping 7" off a 10" wide by 32" long board. The board was in the
rough and must have had some tension. Times like that I miss the old 1
1/2hp contractor saw. At the start of a kickback, I could just hold the
board tight and stall the saw while turning it off. Ain't gonna happen
with the new 3 hp. I had to bail and let it go. And boy did it go!
Right through the back window of the shop and about 30ft. into the back
yard. It took a #4 smoother that was sitting on the window sill with it.
Damn good thing I knew what was about to happen. I posted a pic of the
window on APBW.
Anyway, any suggestions for a REAL splitter are needed. And I don't mind
spending some money on it. Gotta be cheaper that a new windows (or
worse.) Thanks all! --dave
I had a problem with Microjig because I had a standard width splitter, but
used both standard and thin blades with it. It kept pulling out and was a
real pain.

I went completely to thin blades and bought a thin splitter. It hasn't
pulled out in the thousand or so cuts I have used with it. Now that I am
doing things properly it is great. I have removed and reinserted it maybe
50 times without bothering it.

On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 22:47:19 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


Well, there is your problem. You SHOULD NOT be ripping boards that are in
the rough on the TS.

What he said!

I joint and surface my stock first, and then rip with no splitter at
all. The rip simply finishes the width of the board.

I rip rough lumber with a band, hand or jig saw.

Thu, Apr 5, 2007, 10:47pm (EDT+4) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
snip I have on numerous occasions felt a kick back starting but with
the extra power and a sharp blade the blade simply cuts the wood instead
to simply grabing and throwing if you have a firm grip on the board to
start with. snip

I think my little saw has a 3/4 HP motor. Never had a kickback.
Sharp saw blade (I love carbide tipped blades), a firm grip, and
pushsticks, use pushsticks. I still stand out of line of the blade -
just in case.



JOAT
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.
(I have a catapult. Give me all your money, or I will fling an enormous
rock at your head.)

"J T" wrote in message
...
Thu, Apr 5, 2007, 10:47pm (EDT+4) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
snip I have on numerous occasions felt a kick back starting but with
the extra power and a sharp blade the blade simply cuts the wood instead
to simply grabing and throwing if you have a firm grip on the board to
start with. snip

I think my little saw has a 3/4 HP motor. Never had a kickback.
Sharp saw blade (I love carbide tipped blades), a firm grip, and
pushsticks, use pushsticks. I still stand out of line of the blade -
just in case.


FIY, for years I have been aware that the common push stick that is simply a
stick that pushes form a single point on the trailing edge of a board can be
dangerous. My home made push sticks actually has a hook on the end that
hooks on to the trailing edge of the board AND allows me to push down on top
of the back 8" of the board.
The common push stick simply pushes the work through and does nothing to
prevent the wood from raising up.
More and more you see the Grrriper being used at the shows by different
vendors and not just the ones selling the Grrripper. It uses the same
principal that my push stick uses. It allows you push and hold the wood
down while pushing the board through.

Fri, Apr 6, 2007, 8:13pm (EDT+4) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
FIY, for years I have been aware that the common push stick that is
simply a stick that pushes form a single point on the trailing edge of a
board can be dangerous. My home made push sticks actually has a hook on
the end that hooks on to the trailing edge of the board AND allows me to
push down on top of the back 8" of the board. snip

I'm so used to calling them pushsticks I usually don't think to
describe what I use. I suspect mine are a fair match for what you make.
I usually cut them out of plywood, with hook, and a handle tall enough
that my fingers aee out of they way even if the blade is set a bit high
and to apply down pressre with. I bandsaw frequent replacements,
because they tend to get chewed up, especially on the narrower cuts.
For side pressure on the cut piece I usually use a long piece, with a
notch cut in the end. Every once in awhile I get creative and use
smaller pieces to glue together a fancy pushstick, complete with hook
and handle - they get chewed up and tossed as often as the simpler ones
- just like to make one once in awhile.

I can't see buying a pushstick, when I can make one that works as
well, costs zip, and only takes a minute or so to make.



JOAT
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.
(I have a catapult. Give me all your money, or I will fling an enormous
rock at your head.)

Fri, Apr 6, 2007, 8:13pm (EDT+4) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
snip More and more you see the Grrriper being used at the shows by
different vendors and not just the ones selling the Grrripper. It uses
the same principal that my push stick uses. It allows you push and hold
the wood down while pushing the board through.

After I'd already responded, it occurred to me I'd never even seen
a GRR-Ripper. So I googled.
http://www.microjig.com/GRR-Ripper.htm

I consider it a gadget, and with a basic price of $50, I won't be
buying one to play with. If I ever develop a need for something along
those lines, it'll be simple enough to custom make one, or more, to suit
my need(s).



JOAT
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.
(I have a catapult. Give me all your money, or I will fling an enormous
rock at your head.)

"J T" wrote in message
...

After I'd already responded, it occurred to me I'd never even seen
a GRR-Ripper. So I googled.
http://www.microjig.com/GRR-Ripper.htm

I consider it a gadget, and with a basic price of $50, I won't be
buying one to play with. If I ever develop a need for something along
those lines, it'll be simple enough to custom make one, or more, to suit
my need(s).


Don't write it off just yet, I had the exact same thoughts as you did, the
wheel reinvented with a higher price tag. I used Swingman's set about a
year ago and was impressed but not enough to buy a pair.
I went to the show to check up on the Microjig Mjsplitter, the new style,
and they were doing a demo of the Gripper. I was unaware that the Gripper
could be used in so many ways other than the obvious.
One feature that my push stick cannot accomplish and that sold me on the
Grriper was the ability to hold a dowel and cut a flute down it length on
the TS.
One other is the ability to eleminate snipe when routing on a router table
and when the bit has no pilot bearing. If the bit is cutting past the face
of the fence the stock will drift towards the bit as the end of the work
clears the infeed side of the fence. The Gripper prevents the stock from
sliding back into the cutter and eleminates the snipe.
One last thing, you can straighten the edge of a short board using the
Gripper on a TS.











JOAT
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.
(I have a catapult. Give me all your money, or I will fling an enormous
rock at your head.)

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

"J T" wrote in message
...


Oops,, I forgot, crosscutting and mitering 1/16" thick, 1/4 wide or thinner
veneer on the TS is easy to do with the Grriper.

I thought it was just another gadget too. I always thought the notched push
stick was dangerous so made them like Leon's. After reading so many good
reviews on the Gripper, I broke down and bought one. Yes, it's expensive and
yes, it's worth the money. Sure, you can make things that work just as well
but either you put a lot of time into making one adjustable block like the
Gripper or you build several fixed type to fit all situations you may run
into. With the Gripper being so versatile, it's discourages you from using
something that is less than adequate due to not being able to find the
particular home made one your looking for (or haven't made yet).

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

"J T" wrote in message
...

After I'd already responded, it occurred to me I'd never even seen
a GRR-Ripper. So I googled.
http://www.microjig.com/GRR-Ripper.htm

I consider it a gadget, and with a basic price of $50, I won't be
buying one to play with. If I ever develop a need for something along
those lines, it'll be simple enough to custom make one, or more, to suit
my need(s).


Don't write it off just yet, I had the exact same thoughts as you did,
the
wheel reinvented with a higher price tag. I used Swingman's set about a
year ago and was impressed but not enough to buy a pair.
I went to the show to check up on the Microjig Mjsplitter, the new style,
and they were doing a demo of the Gripper. I was unaware that the Gripper
could be used in so many ways other than the obvious.
One feature that my push stick cannot accomplish and that sold me on the
Grriper was the ability to hold a dowel and cut a flute down it length on
the TS.
One other is the ability to eleminate snipe when routing on a router table
and when the bit has no pilot bearing. If the bit is cutting past the
face
of the fence the stock will drift towards the bit as the end of the work
clears the infeed side of the fence. The Gripper prevents the stock from
sliding back into the cutter and eleminates the snipe.
One last thing, you can straighten the edge of a short board using the
Gripper on a TS.











JOAT
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.
(I have a catapult. Give me all your money, or I will fling an enormous
rock at your head.)

"CW" wrote in message
thlink.net...
I thought it was just another gadget too. I always thought the notched push
stick was dangerous so made them like Leon's. After reading so many good
reviews on the Gripper, I broke down and bought one. Yes, it's expensive
and
yes, it's worth the money. Sure, you can make things that work just as
well
but either you put a lot of time into making one adjustable block like the
Gripper or you build several fixed type to fit all situations you may run
into. With the Gripper being so versatile, it's discourages you from using
something that is less than adequate due to not being able to find the
particular home made one your looking for (or haven't made yet).


I learned also that most the vulnerable parts are replicable, so if you have
a special cut through one of the legs or cut one by accident you can get
replacements.

Fri, Apr 6, 2007, 6:40pm (EDT-1) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
Don't write it off just yet, snip the ability to hold a dowel and cut
a flute down it length on the TS. snip you can straighten the edge of
a short board using the Gripper on a TS.

I doubt I'll be doing either. I'll pass .



JOAT
In the rough is just enough.

Fri, Apr 6, 2007, 7:13pm (EDT-1) (Leon)
did sayeh:
Oops,, I forgot, crosscutting and mitering 1/16" thick, 1/4 wide or
thinner veneer on the TS is easy to do with the Grriper.

Don't anticipate doing any of those either.



JOAT
In the rough is just enough.

Sat, Apr 7, 2007, 1:25am (EDT+4) (CW) doth sayeth:
snip Sure, you can make things that work just as well but either you
put a lot of time into making one adjustable block like the Gripper or
you build several fixed type to fit all situations you may run into.
snip

If I were making using its adustabe capiltes by repeatable making
just one or two parts that wold be non-duplicted, its adjustable
capabilites mght be worth te ouput. But, as I tend to make multples f a
part, move on to multiples of another part, then eventualy perhaps need
more copies of th first part, rather than fiddling aroundwith
adjustmets, I prefer to make a non-adjustable jig, or whatever you want
to call it, and use that. Botom line? It's more fun making my own;
more satisfying they'll work and it was me that made it, not someone
else; and that's all good for the soul.



JOAT
In the rough is just enough.

Dave,
I just installed my MJ splitter yesterday. I have the green one for 1/8" kerf
blades since that is the blade I use. I followed the directions precisely, even
when drilling the holes in the ZCI. Directions say use one 'pass' with the
drill bit and don't go up and down multiple times since it will enlarge the
holes. I made certain to use just on pass without stopping half way through.
After I got done, I put the splitter in and was somewhat shocked because it went
in effortlessly...I was expecting some kind of resistance that would help hold
it in. After ripping long boards, some of them 'pulled' the splitter out while
others cut without any issues. The boards were flat and jointed and planed.

Karl



Dave Jackson wrote:

As the title suggests, I need to buy a real splitter or splitter/pawl combo
for a Jet cabinet saw. The one I WAS using (Micro Jig POS) just ain't
cutting it. It constantly comes out of the ZCI when pushing wood through
the saw and today it was banished from the shop forever. After about the
tenth time of putting it back on the saw, it came out again while ripping 7"
off a 10" wide by 32" long board. The board was in the rough and must have
had some tension. Times like that I miss the old 1 1/2hp contractor saw.
At the start of a kickback, I could just hold the board tight and stall the
saw while turning it off. Ain't gonna happen with the new 3 hp. I had to
bail and let it go. And boy did it go! Right through the back window of
the shop and about 30ft. into the back yard. It took a #4 smoother that was
sitting on the window sill with it. Damn good thing I knew what was about to
happen. I posted a pic of the window on APBW.
Anyway, any suggestions for a REAL splitter are needed. And I don't mind
spending some money on it. Gotta be cheaper that a new windows (or worse.)
Thanks all! --dave