Looking at some red oak ply that I need both sides good.
Grades available are B2, A2, A1 and plain slice and rotary slice.
What do they mean??
Next question is I need to put an edge molding over some of the exposed
edges. How well does the heat glued edging hold up or should I look at
glue-it-yourself

CORE
veneer core v/c
lumber core l/c (sawed lumber: strongest, best edge, easiest to cut, not
common)
fibre core f/c
particle core p/c

ADHESIVE
Type 1: (or "technical type"): exterior water proof
Type 2: moisture resistant, some delam if wetted, most common interior
Type 3: come apart if wetted; interior, keep reasonable dry

GRADE
Hardwood

Face (by letter)
AA
A
B
C (considered utility grade)
D (considered utility grade)
E (considered utility grade)

Back (by number)
1 (best)
2
3
4

Imported Hardwood (gen diff)
Face
BBPF (best)
BB
CC
OVL

Back
A (best)
B

Softwood
(both face and back by same letter)
N (best-not common, special order)
A
B
C-plugged
C
D

CUT
ROT (rotary)
FLAT flitch cut, or stay-log cut - may be slip matched or book matched

GROUP
(strength or specific gravity of species in core) - unless specific
application of strength or stiffness, need not worry.
Hardwood
A (strongest)
B
C

Softwood
1 (strongest)
2
3
4
5

Generally, woodworkers use B-2 or better on visible or outside, and C-2 or
C-3 or better for inside of furniture or cabinets. Softwood: N-B or A-B, and
no less than B-B outside.

1/2" Birch at HD says at least this much on the label: G2S (B-2) VC


P D Q
"Lee" wrote in message . net...
Looking at some red oak ply that I need both sides good.
Grades available are B2, A2, A1 and plain slice and rotary slice.
What do they mean??
Next question is I need to put an edge molding over some of the exposed
edges. How well does the heat glued edging hold up or should I look at
glue-it-yourself

So what is a rotary cut compared to plain slice as far as grain?
"PDQ" wrote in message ...
CORE
veneer core v/c
lumber core l/c (sawed lumber: strongest, best edge, easiest to cut, not
common)
fibre core f/c
particle core p/c

ADHESIVE
Type 1: (or "technical type"): exterior water proof
Type 2: moisture resistant, some delam if wetted, most common interior
Type 3: come apart if wetted; interior, keep reasonable dry

GRADE
Hardwood

Face (by letter)
AA
A
B
C (considered utility grade)
D (considered utility grade)
E (considered utility grade)

Back (by number)
1 (best)
2
3
4

Imported Hardwood (gen diff)
Face
BBPF (best)
BB
CC
OVL

Back
A (best)
B

Softwood
(both face and back by same letter)
N (best-not common, special order)
A
B
C-plugged
C
D

CUT
ROT (rotary)
FLAT flitch cut, or stay-log cut - may be slip matched or book matched

GROUP
(strength or specific gravity of species in core) - unless specific
application of strength or stiffness, need not worry.
Hardwood
A (strongest)
B
C

Softwood
1 (strongest)
2
3
4
5

Generally, woodworkers use B-2 or better on visible or outside, and C-2 or
C-3 or better for inside of furniture or cabinets. Softwood: N-B or A-B, and
no less than B-B outside.

1/2" Birch at HD says at least this much on the label: G2S (B-2) VC


P D Q
"Lee" wrote in message . net...
Looking at some red oak ply that I need both sides good.
Grades available are B2, A2, A1 and plain slice and rotary slice.
What do they mean??
Next question is I need to put an edge molding over some of the exposed
edges. How well does the heat glued edging hold up or should I look at
glue-it-yourself

On Mar 27, 10:44 pm, "Lee" wrote:
So what is a rotary cut compared to plain slice as far as grain?

Did you do a google search?
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/cuts.html
http://www.windsorplywood.com/did_you_know_q.html
I picture rotary cut as unpeeling a fruit rollup, and it often leaves
a unique (unnatural and often unappealing IMO) grain pattern compared
to traditional sawing (flat or quarter).
Andy