I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Thanks,
-TT

Sun, Mar 4, 2007, 10:37am (EST-1) (Tom*Terrific)
doth query:
I've just stripped snip Has technology come up with a solution for
folks who simply don't believe in coasters? snip

I think I'd just put on a good varnish, wipe up spills frequently,
and/or find drinkers wih more class.



JOAT
It was too early in the morning for it to be early in the morning. That
was the only thing that he currently knew for sure.
- Clodpool

Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Are you talking about a bartop for home use or for a commercial
establishment? If it's for a commercial establishment consider
polyester and use automotive polishing compounds on it if you want it
shiny (plan on spending a couple of hundred bucks for compounds and
pads). If you want a minimum-effort "wet look" a 2K polyurethane would
also be good, but it's nasty stuff to work with--read and be sure you
understand _all_ the safety precautions.

For a home bar a catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish or one of the
newer high grade waterbornes should be fine.

All these need commercial spray equipment if you want a really good
result without a lot of sanding and polishing.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

The General HP Poly may be what you want. Cheers, JG

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...alfinishes.htm




"Tom Terrific" wrote in message
.net...
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Thanks,
-TT

On Sun, 4 Mar 2007 12:48:12 -0500, (J T)
wrote:


I think I'd just put on a good varnish, wipe up spills frequently,
and/or find drinkers wih more class.

Speaking of joints with no class...

One of the places I frequent might list "dents from customer's heads"
as something they would like to protect against. Note that the
customer heads often have someone else's hand behind them as they
strike the bar.

Hey, they have good beer on tap! G

Mug club memberships are still available!

In article ,
says...
Sun, Mar 4, 2007, 10:37am (EST-1) (Tom*Terrific)
doth query:
I've just stripped snip Has technology come up with a solution for
folks who simply don't believe in coasters? snip

I think I'd just put on a good varnish, wipe up spills frequently,
and/or find drinkers wih more class.

Unfortunately, my own class is sometimes lacking in this respect.
There's also the inevitable spilled drink.

In article ,
says...
Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Are you talking about a bartop for home use or for a commercial
establishment? If it's for a commercial establishment consider
polyester and use automotive polishing compounds on it if you want it
shiny (plan on spending a couple of hundred bucks for compounds and
pads). If you want a minimum-effort "wet look" a 2K polyurethane would
also be good, but it's nasty stuff to work with--read and be sure you
understand _all_ the safety precautions.

For a home bar a catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish or one of the
newer high grade waterbornes should be fine.

All these need commercial spray equipment if you want a really good
result without a lot of sanding and polishing.

This is a home bar, so cost and ease of application are definitely
factors (at least the kind of cost that you're talking about). Can I
apply a thinner coat of a two part epoxy with a brush for a more
traditional technique and look, but with a more durable result? (I
suspect not, since if it were that easy, everybody would already be
doing it that way). How about a floor finish? We had a professional
application of 'Street Shoe' a couple years ago and are very pleased
with the result, particularly in an area that frequently sees snowy
boots. It's a water based product, so I suspect it would lend itself
to this kind of a project if it's suitable. Would something like
that work well on a bar top?

You're overthinking this. An oil base polyuretane will protect from any
spill that is cleaned up within 36 hours. Cheap, easy to find and works.

"Tom Terrific" wrote in message
.net...
In article ,
says...
Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Are you talking about a bartop for home use or for a commercial
establishment? If it's for a commercial establishment consider
polyester and use automotive polishing compounds on it if you want it
shiny (plan on spending a couple of hundred bucks for compounds and
pads). If you want a minimum-effort "wet look" a 2K polyurethane would
also be good, but it's nasty stuff to work with--read and be sure you
understand _all_ the safety precautions.

For a home bar a catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish or one of the
newer high grade waterbornes should be fine.

All these need commercial spray equipment if you want a really good
result without a lot of sanding and polishing.

This is a home bar, so cost and ease of application are definitely
factors (at least the kind of cost that you're talking about). Can I
apply a thinner coat of a two part epoxy with a brush for a more
traditional technique and look, but with a more durable result? (I
suspect not, since if it were that easy, everybody would already be
doing it that way). How about a floor finish? We had a professional
application of 'Street Shoe' a couple years ago and are very pleased
with the result, particularly in an area that frequently sees snowy
boots. It's a water based product, so I suspect it would lend itself
to this kind of a project if it's suitable. Would something like
that work well on a bar top?

On Mar 4, 10:37 am, Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Thanks,
-TT

Why not just do the obvious and use a top grade spar varnish? Nothing
beats these for rough service except maybe automotive catalyzed clear
coats. And the latter are best applied with professional equipment, so
that might limit your choices. HTH

Joe

In article . com,
says...
On Mar 4, 10:37 am, Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Thanks,
-TT

Why not just do the obvious and use a top grade spar varnish? Nothing
beats these for rough service except maybe automotive catalyzed clear
coats. And the latter are best applied with professional equipment, so
that might limit your choices. HTH

I used spar varnish many years ago on some outdoor furniture and was
pleased with the results. I'm assuming that spar urethane is the
modern-day version of spar varnish (indeed, it's beginning to look
like urethane is the latest be-all end-all finishing product). I
went to the Minwax website to get a common, non-technical description
of the different types of finishes that are available. I don't mean
to imply that I'm necessarily going to use this brand, I simply
wanted to see how the different types compare. Their Helmsman spar
urethane sounds like just the sort of product that I'm looking for.
In fact, they list bar tops among the recommended applications.

That may be the answer. As far as overthinking, I wasn't even aware
of the different urethane products that are available today - hence
my original question. This may, indeed, be the solution that
technology has provided. I've not done a lot of wood finishing in
recent years. Off the top of my head and without doing any research,
I probably would have used ten coats of varnish followed by a weekly
application of paste wax. (add a couple of cigarette burns and the
smell of stale beer and I'd have a retro Tavern look).

In article et,
says...
You're overthinking this. An oil base polyuretane will protect from any
spill that is cleaned up within 36 hours. Cheap, easy to find and works.

"Tom Terrific" wrote in message
.net...
In article ,
says...
Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Are you talking about a bartop for home use or for a commercial
establishment? If it's for a commercial establishment consider
polyester and use automotive polishing compounds on it if you want it
shiny (plan on spending a couple of hundred bucks for compounds and
pads). If you want a minimum-effort "wet look" a 2K polyurethane would
also be good, but it's nasty stuff to work with--read and be sure you
understand _all_ the safety precautions.

For a home bar a catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish or one of the
newer high grade waterbornes should be fine.

All these need commercial spray equipment if you want a really good
result without a lot of sanding and polishing.

This is a home bar, so cost and ease of application are definitely
factors (at least the kind of cost that you're talking about). Can I
apply a thinner coat of a two part epoxy with a brush for a more
traditional technique and look, but with a more durable result? (I
suspect not, since if it were that easy, everybody would already be
doing it that way). How about a floor finish? We had a professional
application of 'Street Shoe' a couple years ago and are very pleased
with the result, particularly in an area that frequently sees snowy
boots. It's a water based product, so I suspect it would lend itself
to this kind of a project if it's suitable. Would something like
that work well on a bar top?

Your varnish and wax would work just fine too. The urethane is easy and will
get you what you want. Wasn't really you that was overcomplicating things.
Often the suggestions you get here are a bit over the top. Ask a question
like this here and there will be those that suggest things that cost $200.00
a gallon and have to be applied by an expert with pro equipment while
wearing a hazmat suit (of course, after they suggest this to you, they go
out into their garage and brush another coat of poly on their latest
project).

"Tom Terrific" wrote in message
.net...
That may be the answer. As far as overthinking, I wasn't even aware
of the different urethane products that are available today - hence
my original question. This may, indeed, be the solution that
technology has provided. I've not done a lot of wood finishing in
recent years. Off the top of my head and without doing any research,
I probably would have used ten coats of varnish followed by a weekly
application of paste wax. (add a couple of cigarette burns and the
smell of stale beer and I'd have a retro Tavern look).

In article et,
says...
You're overthinking this. An oil base polyuretane will protect from any
spill that is cleaned up within 36 hours. Cheap, easy to find and works.

"Tom Terrific" wrote in message
.net...
In article ,
says...
Tom Terrific wrote:
I've just stripped and restained an oak bartop, but I haven't put
a
finish on it yet. Before I do, what sort of finish/sealer will
provide the best protection from water short of a poured epoxy
finish
(I don't care for the plastic look). Has technology come up with
a
solution for folks who simply don't believe in coasters? Can I
put a
shine on an epoxy coating? Perhaps I can put a coat of something
on
an epoxy coating that would make it look better?

Are you talking about a bartop for home use or for a commercial
establishment? If it's for a commercial establishment consider
polyester and use automotive polishing compounds on it if you want
it
shiny (plan on spending a couple of hundred bucks for compounds and
pads). If you want a minimum-effort "wet look" a 2K polyurethane
would
also be good, but it's nasty stuff to work with--read and be sure
you
understand _all_ the safety precautions.

For a home bar a catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish or one of
the
newer high grade waterbornes should be fine.

All these need commercial spray equipment if you want a really good
result without a lot of sanding and polishing.

This is a home bar, so cost and ease of application are definitely
factors (at least the kind of cost that you're talking about). Can I
apply a thinner coat of a two part epoxy with a brush for a more
traditional technique and look, but with a more durable result? (I
suspect not, since if it were that easy, everybody would already be
doing it that way). How about a floor finish? We had a professional
application of 'Street Shoe' a couple years ago and are very pleased
with the result, particularly in an area that frequently sees snowy
boots. It's a water based product, so I suspect it would lend itself
to this kind of a project if it's suitable. Would something like
that work well on a bar top?

The best and longest-lasting varnish I have ever used on my boats is ACE
brand Marine Spar Varnish. Holds up to Michigan outdoor use, daily dew,
long sun exposures, frequent rain, snow, frost, icing,. We walk and
climb and toss stuff all over this boat and use very little caution.
Weathers for several seasons and looks very nice, rich golden color on
mahogany. Second choice is Kush brand.

"All these need commercial spray equipment if you want a really good
result without a lot of sanding and
polishing."••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• ••Not
true of spar varnish, although oak does have a stringier grain than
mahogany. Sand with 180 open coat or garnet paper between 2 or 3 coats,
brushing liberally the new varnish on and it will be self-leveling.

"I used spar varnish many years ago on some outdoor furniture and was
pleased with the
results."•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
If the furniture was made of softwood, then NO glossy finish will hold
on it, the pines and poplars shrink and expand and torque too much. I
cringe every time I run across a gloss-type deck finish. One Mchigan
year will prove my point.