I am about to coat my new bar counter top with a clear epoxy in order
to give it the restaurant bar look. I have done alot of reading and
am trying to figure out which product to use.

I have bought some of the System 3 Mirror Coat from a local
woodworking story and it is quite expensive. After doing some reading
in this group I have learned about the other products that are out
there. Some of which you can buy from stores like Michaels for much
less. I believe the product name was Envirotex Lite. Is it worth the
extra money for the System 3? If so, why.

This is my first time doing this so any advice on the best way to
apply this stuff would be greatly appreciated. From what I
understand:

-the first coat you basically brush on to cover the wood and seal any
cracks in the molding. Then the later coats can be thicker.
-I am going to make it about 1/4" thick.
-I understand the hardest thing is getting rid of the air bubbles, so
I hear that using a torch is the best way to get rid of them.
-Other than than just pour it on and level it out.

Sounds pretty easy, but seriously how hard is it? I know once I start
it is hard to go back.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

wrote:
I am about to coat my new bar counter top with a clear epoxy in order
to give it the restaurant bar look. I have done alot of reading and
am trying to figure out which product to use.

System 3 sells good stuff.

I buy their laminating resin in 55 gallon drums.

Lew

I have built several tables for our local ELKS club and used A product
called Enviro-Tex. It is available in quarts, gallons, etc. Basically a two
part epoxy, mix well and pour. You can get it from Woodworker's Supply or
Van Dyke's Restorers ( a little cheaper).
Pour it on, and level it out. Sounds easy, requires practice to get perfect.
Air bubbles will come out by exhaling on them ( the CO2 in your breath will
lift them right off). A propane torch works, but is pretty hazardous. You
will have about 1/2 hour working time in 80 degree weather. I have done this
in cold weather (about 50) but set up time is considerably longer. In approx
1/8 in depths, it took me three pours to get right. But I had ropework
around the edges that absorbed a LOT of the stuff. After it is cured, you
can sand, scrape file whatever, and the next coat will cover all. I even
brushed some on the edges, and that worked well.
The down side, it is messy!!!
good luck,
-roger-


wrote in message
ps.com...
I am about to coat my new bar counter top with a clear epoxy in order
to give it the restaurant bar look. I have done alot of reading and
am trying to figure out which product to use.

I have bought some of the System 3 Mirror Coat from a local
woodworking story and it is quite expensive. After doing some reading
in this group I have learned about the other products that are out
there. Some of which you can buy from stores like Michaels for much
less. I believe the product name was Envirotex Lite. Is it worth the
extra money for the System 3? If so, why.

This is my first time doing this so any advice on the best way to
apply this stuff would be greatly appreciated. From what I
understand:

-the first coat you basically brush on to cover the wood and seal any
cracks in the molding. Then the later coats can be thicker.
-I am going to make it about 1/4" thick.
-I understand the hardest thing is getting rid of the air bubbles, so
I hear that using a torch is the best way to get rid of them.
-Other than than just pour it on and level it out.

Sounds pretty easy, but seriously how hard is it? I know once I start
it is hard to go back.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Put paper on the floor to collect the material that flows over the edge.
Also, when I have done this I build a tent of brown wrapping paper over it
to keep dust from settling in the surface.
Now days unless I need to embedded something on the surface I use a premium
quality polyurethane which gives a similar look but is easier to apply. Good
Luck, JG


"Roger King" wrote in message
nk.net...
I have built several tables for our local ELKS club and used A product
called Enviro-Tex. It is available in quarts, gallons, etc. Basically a two
part epoxy, mix well and pour. You can get it from Woodworker's Supply or
Van Dyke's Restorers ( a little cheaper).
Pour it on, and level it out. Sounds easy, requires practice to get
perfect. Air bubbles will come out by exhaling on them ( the CO2 in your
breath will lift them right off). A propane torch works, but is pretty
hazardous. You will have about 1/2 hour working time in 80 degree weather.
I have done this in cold weather (about 50) but set up time is
considerably longer. In approx 1/8 in depths, it took me three pours to
get right. But I had ropework around the edges that absorbed a LOT of the
stuff. After it is cured, you can sand, scrape file whatever, and the next
coat will cover all. I even brushed some on the edges, and that worked
well.
The down side, it is messy!!!
good luck,
-roger-


wrote in message
ps.com...
I am about to coat my new bar counter top with a clear epoxy in order
to give it the restaurant bar look. I have done alot of reading and
am trying to figure out which product to use.

I have bought some of the System 3 Mirror Coat from a local
woodworking story and it is quite expensive. After doing some reading
in this group I have learned about the other products that are out
there. Some of which you can buy from stores like Michaels for much
less. I believe the product name was Envirotex Lite. Is it worth the
extra money for the System 3? If so, why.

This is my first time doing this so any advice on the best way to
apply this stuff would be greatly appreciated. From what I
understand:

-the first coat you basically brush on to cover the wood and seal any
cracks in the molding. Then the later coats can be thicker.
-I am going to make it about 1/4" thick.
-I understand the hardest thing is getting rid of the air bubbles, so
I hear that using a torch is the best way to get rid of them.
-Other than than just pour it on and level it out.

Sounds pretty easy, but seriously how hard is it? I know once I start
it is hard to go back.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

On Feb 15, 7:18 am, "JGS" wrote:
Put paper on the floor to collect the material that flows over the edge.
Also, when I have done this I build a tent of brown wrapping paper over it
to keep dust from settling in the surface.
Now days unless I need to embedded something on the surface I use a premium
quality polyurethane which gives a similar look but is easier to apply. Good
Luck, JG

"Roger King" wrote in message

nk.net...



I have built several tables for our local ELKS club and used A product
called Enviro-Tex. It is available in quarts, gallons, etc. Basically a two
part epoxy, mix well and pour. You can get it from Woodworker's Supply or
Van Dyke's Restorers ( a little cheaper).
Pour it on, and level it out. Sounds easy, requires practice to get
perfect.Airbubbleswill come out by exhaling on them ( the CO2 in your
breath will lift them right off). A propane torch works, but is pretty
hazardous. You will have about 1/2 hour working time in 80 degree weather.
I have done this in cold weather (about 50) but set up time is
considerably longer. In approx 1/8 in depths, it took me three pours to
get right. But I had ropework around the edges that absorbed a LOT of the
stuff. After it is cured, you can sand, scrape file whatever, and the next
coatwill cover all. I even brushed some on the edges, and that worked
well.
The down side, it is messy!!!
good luck,
-roger-

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am about tocoatmy new bar counter top with a clear epoxy in order
to give it the restaurant bar look. I have done alot of reading and
am trying to figure out which product to use.

I have bought some of the System 3MirrorCoatfrom a local
woodworking story and it is quite expensive. After doing some reading
in this group I have learned about the other products that are out
there. Some of which you can buy from stores like Michaels for much
less. I believe the product name was Envirotex Lite. Is it worth the
extra money for the System 3? If so, why.

This is my first time doing this so any advice on the best way to
apply this stuff would be greatly appreciated. From what I
understand:

-the firstcoatyou basically brush on to cover the wood and seal any
cracks in the molding. Then the later coats can be thicker.
-I am going to make it about 1/4" thick.
-I understand the hardest thing is getting rid of theairbubbles, so
I hear that using a torch is the best way to get rid of them.
-Other than than just pour it on and level it out.

Sounds pretty easy, but seriously how hard is it? I know once I start
it is hard to go back.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok, so I decided to you the mirror coat and have completed the first
coat, which I made very thin. Just thick enough to seal off the
wood. I believe that there are small air bubbles that formed, it is
hard to tell if they are caters or air bubbles. So what type of
sandpaper should I use to get out the air bubbles? Then what should I
use to clean the surface before adding the next layer? Is the
sandpaper going to scuff or scratch the surface?

Thanks

wrote:
On Feb 15, 7:18 am, "JGS" wrote:
Put paper on the floor to collect the material that flows over the
edge. Also, when I have done this I build a tent of brown wrapping
paper over it to keep dust from settling in the surface.
Now days unless I need to embedded something on the surface I use
a premium quality polyurethane which gives a similar look but is
easier to apply. Good Luck, JG

"Roger King" wrote in message

nk.net...



I have built several tables for our local ELKS club and used A
product called Enviro-Tex. It is available in quarts, gallons,
etc. Basically a two part epoxy, mix well and pour. You can get
it from Woodworker's Supply or Van Dyke's Restorers ( a little
cheaper).
Pour it on, and level it out. Sounds easy, requires practice to
get perfect.Airbubbleswill come out by exhaling on them ( the CO2
in your breath will lift them right off). A propane torch works,
but is pretty hazardous. You will have about 1/2 hour working
time in 80 degree weather. I have done this in cold weather
(about 50) but set up time is considerably longer. In approx 1/8
in depths, it took me three pours to get right. But I had
ropework around the edges that absorbed a LOT of the stuff. After
it is cured, you can sand, scrape file whatever, and the next
coatwill cover all. I even brushed some on the edges, and that
worked well.
The down side, it is messy!!!
good luck,
-roger-

wrote in message
ps.com...
I am about tocoatmy new bar counter top with a clear epoxy in
order
to give it the restaurant bar look. I have done alot of reading
and am trying to figure out which product to use.

I have bought some of the System 3MirrorCoatfrom a local
woodworking story and it is quite expensive. After doing some
reading in this group I have learned about the other products
that are out there. Some of which you can buy from stores like
Michaels for much less. I believe the product name was
Envirotex Lite. Is it worth the extra money for the System 3?
If so, why.

This is my first time doing this so any advice on the best way to
apply this stuff would be greatly appreciated. From what I
understand:

-the firstcoatyou basically brush on to cover the wood and seal
any cracks in the molding. Then the later coats can be thicker.
-I am going to make it about 1/4" thick.
-I understand the hardest thing is getting rid of theairbubbles,
so
I hear that using a torch is the best way to get rid of them.
-Other than than just pour it on and level it out.

Sounds pretty easy, but seriously how hard is it? I know once I
start it is hard to go back.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok, so I decided to you the mirror coat and have completed the first
coat, which I made very thin. Just thick enough to seal off the
wood. I believe that there are small air bubbles that formed, it is
hard to tell if they are caters or air bubbles. So what type of
sandpaper should I use to get out the air bubbles?

Any kind. A Surform plane is faster; so is a rasp.
_______________

Then what should I use to clean the surface before adding the next
layer?

Your questions are getting harder, let me think...

A brush and/or vacuum should work well to remove debris. For removing
any amine "blush", use soap (dish detergent, sparingly) and water.
Rinse well.
________________

Is the sandpaper going to scuff or scratch the surface?

Ooooo...a real toughie!

Yes, the surface will be scratched. No, it doesn't matter. In fact,
you WANT the surface "scratched" (well sanded) so the next coat
adheres well. The exception is when additional coats are applied
within the time frame as specified in the material instructions.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico