I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the tails
in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter. I am using a
PC8529 plunge router.

I finally got one to come out looking good even though I had a lot of
chatter. It feels like the bit is gonna break sometimes.

What's up with this??

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the tails
in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter. I am using a
PC8529 plunge router.

I finally got one to come out looking good even though I had a lot of
chatter. It feels like the bit is gonna break sometimes.

What's up with this??

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com



Have you got eh bit in as deep as possible in the router collet?
Are you using the 1/4" shank bits? You might want to switch to their 8mm
bits. They have a lot more mass.
When cutting a through DT with the DT bit you are removing a lot of material

"Stoutman" .@. writes:
I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the
tails in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter.

Yup. If you're going to be doing this a lot, try to get an 8mm collet
for your router and buy the 8mm bits for the Leigh.

Or, if you have two routers, put a straight bit in the other one, set
a little higher than the dovetail bit, and pre-cut with it.

Yup. If you're going to be doing this a lot, try to get an 8mm collet
for your router and buy the 8mm bits for the Leigh.

Or, if you have two routers, put a straight bit in the other one, set
a little higher than the dovetail bit, and pre-cut with it.

The jig came with the 8mm bits and 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer.

Have you got eh bit in as deep as possible in the router collet?

I think so. Next time I will make sure.

Are you using the 1/4" shank bits? You might want to switch to their 8mm
bits. They have a lot more mass.

The jig came with the 8mm bits and 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer. And 8mm
bits.





When cutting a through DT with the DT bit you are removing a lot of
material

Or, if you have two routers, put a straight bit in the other one, set
a little higher than the dovetail bit, and pre-cut with it.

I will give this a try also!


I am getting very frustrated with this thing. I even managed to hit the end
of one of the fingers with a spinning bit and cut a small chunk out. I
moved this finger to the end where it will not get used, but I think I will
still replace it. I think I am done for the night.

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 21:50:39 -0500, "Stoutman" .@. wrote:

I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the tails
in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter. I am using a
PC8529 plunge router.

I finally got one to come out looking good even though I had a lot of
chatter. It feels like the bit is gonna break sometimes.

What's up with this??



I agree with Leon's comments and the bit needs to be almost all the
way up in the collet. If the bits are too long I cut off a chunk so
that I can have the cutter way up around the collet..
I find that 1/2" collet bits work best for correcting this problem.
I feel 8m/m is still a bit on the lean side especially for cutting
hardwoods.

Good Luck

"DJ Delorie" wrote in message
...

"Stoutman" .@. writes:
I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the
tails in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter.

Yup. If you're going to be doing this a lot, try to get an 8mm collet
for your router and buy the 8mm bits for the Leigh.

Or, if you have two routers, put a straight bit in the other one, set
a little higher than the dovetail bit, and pre-cut with it.

Make sure your collar is centered on the bit. Both routers.

Recommend the spiral bits for precut and pins. They make finer sawdust, but
no chatter as with the two-flutes. You might have to adjust your jig a bit,
according to instructions for differing diameters.

Did I mention to center the collar on the bit? Both routers. prevents
surprises.

"Joe Bemier" wrote in message

I agree with Leon's comments and the bit needs to be almost all the
way up in the collet. If the bits are too long I cut off a chunk so
that I can have the cutter way up around the collet.

Too long bits are rarely a problem with the Leigh jigs ... with some routers
it can be a struggle to get a dovetail bit up far enough in the router
collet in dovetail mode because of the thickness of the jig fingers.

Sounds as if this is what Stoutman is experiencing ...

I find that 1/2" collet bits work best for correcting this problem.
I feel 8m/m is still a bit on the lean side especially for cutting
hardwoods.

Be pretty tough to do that on my D4 with the necessary 7/16 collar guide on
the router. That's why Leigh recommends, and supplies, 8mm.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/07

DJ Delorie wrote:

Or, if you have two routers, put a straight bit in the other one, set
a little higher than the dovetail bit, and pre-cut with it.

Thanks for that tip. G

Stoutman wrote:
I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the tails
in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter. I am using a
PC8529 plunge router.

I finally got one to come out looking good even though I had a lot of
chatter. It feels like the bit is gonna break sometimes.

What's up with this??



I've used mine in maple, the world's densest white oak G, cedar,
poplar, and red oak.

The only time I can remember anything that could be described as
chatter, I was trying to push too fast straight through, where the bit
was encased in wood. I find "scooping" movements, moving left to right,
work much better.

Hope we're talking about the same thing. G

George wrote:


Recommend the spiral bits for precut and pins. They make finer sawdust,
but no chatter as with the two-flutes. You might have to adjust your jig
a bit, according to instructions for differing diameters.

Did I mention to center the collar on the bit? Both routers. prevents
surprises.


FWIW, Leigh clearly recommends ONE router for the cuts that need to fit.

Precutting with a second router sounds like a great idea.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
. net...
George wrote:


Recommend the spiral bits for precut and pins. They make finer sawdust,
but no chatter as with the two-flutes. You might have to adjust your jig
a bit, according to instructions for differing diameters.

Did I mention to center the collar on the bit? Both routers. prevents
surprises.


FWIW, Leigh clearly recommends ONE router for the cuts that need to fit.

Precutting with a second router sounds like a great idea.

If the bit is improperly centered in that ONE router, and you change the
relative rotation while cutting, they will not fit.

George wrote:


If the bit is improperly centered in that ONE router, and you change the
relative rotation while cutting, they will not fit.

I understand that perfectly.

I simply felt it was important to point out that my D4R manual states in
several locations that two routers usually create more problems than
they solve. I'm glad they work for you.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
George wrote:


Recommend the spiral bits for precut and pins. They make finer sawdust,
but no chatter as with the two-flutes. You might have to adjust your jig
a bit, according to instructions for differing diameters.

Did I mention to center the collar on the bit? Both routers. prevents
surprises.


FWIW, Leigh clearly recommends ONE router for the cuts that need to fit.

That's true for halfblind dovetails where only one bit is used ... for
through dovetails where two different bits are used, at least in my older D4
manual, they indicate that a second router for the straight bit is a good
idea (page 62 - Fig 8-29).


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/07

Swingman wrote:

That's true for halfblind dovetails where only one bit is used ... for
through dovetails where two different bits are used, at least in my older D4
manual, they indicate that a second router for the straight bit is a good
idea (page 62 - Fig 8-29).



I'll double check mine.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message

Swingman wrote:

That's true for halfblind dovetails where only one bit is used ... for
through dovetails where two different bits are used, at least in my
older D4
manual, they indicate that a second router for the straight bit is a
good
idea (page 62 - Fig 8-29).



I'll double check mine.

I double checked.

The mention you reference is not in my manual, dated 01/05 on the
inside back cover.

On page 47 (fig. 7-7), they state that "Concentricity problems can
_only_ (my emphasis) arise if two routers are used for through
dovetails, (one for pins; one for tails)."

My manual is considerably older [apparently back when routers and jigs were
better made ] ... 1995.

Here is the applicable page:

www.e-woodshop.net/files/2-TDT.pdf

AAMOF, and because I've quite often done as many as 60 or 80 drawer sides at
a time, I've always set up two routers when using the Leigh D4 for through
dovetails - one for the DT bit/one for the straight bit - and never had a
problem, and not even the same two routers every time ... go figure.

That said, I've always noted, as Leon confirmed to me the other day as his
experience, that "through dovetails" with the Leigh are a lot less fussy
than halfblind dovetails.

... AAMOF, I won't batch cut too many halfblinds, pins or tails, with the
Leigh D4 without doing some interim test fits.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/07

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On page 47 (fig. 7-7), they state that "Concentricity problems can
_only_ (my emphasis) arise if two routers are used for through
dovetails, (one for pins; one for tails)."


Doesn't that imply the truth that concentricity makes all routers equal?
Does according to Euclid....

Swingman wrote:

AAMOF, and because I've quite often done as many as 60 or 80 drawer sides at
a time, I've always set up two routers when using the Leigh D4 for through
dovetails - one for the DT bit/one for the straight bit - and never had a
problem, and not even the same two routers every time ... go figure.

I don't doubt that at all.

I can only guess, but Leigh may have had lots of tech support calls with
the problem, so they changed the manual.

George wrote:

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On page 47 (fig. 7-7), they state that "Concentricity problems can
_only_ (my emphasis) arise if two routers are used for through
dovetails, (one for pins; one for tails)."


Doesn't that imply the truth that concentricity makes all routers equal?
Does according to Euclid....

I didn't say it wouldn't work, only what Leigh had to say about it.

Euclid had a router?

Euclid had a router?

Yes, but it was Archimedes who invented the upcut spiral bit.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com

Lee Gordon wrote:
Euclid had a router?

Yes, but it was Archimedes who invented the upcut spiral bit.

I was taught he sold the distribution rights to Plato.

I know Socrates was a woodworker, due to frequent mentions of hemlock.

"Lee Gordon" wrote in message
. ..
Euclid had a router?

Yes, but it was Archimedes who invented the upcut spiral bit.


After screwing around a bit.

As I said in the first of my posts, center your bits. Every point on that
circle is equidistant from the center, and no problem with either
compensating or uncompensated error. Doesn't matter, never did, what the
manual suggests. Avoiding the error beats compensation.