I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

Just looking for suggestions.

Thanks

keith

I don't have this saw, my experience might help.

I have the Delta TS350 and the fence has no adjustment for squaring it
to the table. But what I did was to shim the nylon glides. The fence
rests on two nylon disks that slide on the fence guide tube. I bought
longer screws for the nylon disks and shimmed under one. It's perfect
now.

Mike

Keith wrote:
I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

Just looking for suggestions.

Thanks

keith

Are you saying that if you stand the square up vertically on the table,
the vertical edge is not parallel to the fence? Or are you saying that
if you lay the square horizontially along the fence, the edge of the
square is not parallel to the edge of the table. If it's the first,
you can probably loosen the bolts that attach the fence to the
lock-down mechanism and adjust it. If it's the second, don't worry
about it. The important thing is to have both the blade and the fence
parallel to the miter slots.

DonkeyHody
"Beware the hobby that eats." - Benjamin Franklin

You want the blade and fence to be parallel to the mitre slots. Do not
worry about the edges of the table.

Dave Paine

"Keith" wrote in message
ups.com...
I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

Just looking for suggestions.

Thanks

keith

Squaring to Miter slots is the way to go for blade and fence.

You are OK and good to go (unless blade is not square (parallel to miter
slot).


"Keith" wrote in message
ups.com...
I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

Just looking for suggestions.

Thanks

keith

On 20 Dec 2006 12:45:17 -0800, "Keith" wrote:

I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

If you're talking about square vertically to the table, then you
should be able to shim under the 4 bolts that you loosen to adjust to
make the fence parallel. I would check for square along the whole
length of the fence to make sure the problem isn't related to the
table not being flat or fence twisted.


-Leuf

I finally have a little time every day to work around the shop. I set
some project goals but also, looking at safety, I wanted to be sure
that equipment is good order.

I've been ripping some stock and just decided to check the fence and
that's how I noticed the issue. I'd like to shim just to get
everything square.

The fence has been squared to the miter slots and with respect to the
blad so that is OK,

Thanks for the idea. I'll get some shimming washers.

Keith


Leuf wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 12:45:17 -0800, "Keith" wrote:

I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

If you're talking about square vertically to the table, then you
should be able to shim under the 4 bolts that you loosen to adjust to
make the fence parallel. I would check for square along the whole
length of the fence to make sure the problem isn't related to the
table not being flat or fence twisted.


-Leuf

Hi Keith,

This is one of those alignments that is often overlooked, contributing
to the false idea that a table saw can't be used for accurate joinery.
It is definitely worth your while to get it corrected.

Ed Bennett

http://www.ts-aligner.com

Keith wrote:
I finally have a little time every day to work around the shop. I set
some project goals but also, looking at safety, I wanted to be sure
that equipment is good order.

I've been ripping some stock and just decided to check the fence and
that's how I noticed the issue. I'd like to shim just to get
everything square.

The fence has been squared to the miter slots and with respect to the
blad so that is OK,

Thanks for the idea. I'll get some shimming washers.

Keith


Leuf wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 12:45:17 -0800, "Keith" wrote:

I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not
exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter
slots.

I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to
the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?

If you're talking about square vertically to the table, then you
should be able to shim under the 4 bolts that you loosen to adjust to
make the fence parallel. I would check for square along the whole
length of the fence to make sure the problem isn't related to the
table not being flat or fence twisted.


-Leuf

"Tyke" wrote in message
...
You want the blade and fence to be parallel to the mitre slots. Do not
worry about the edges of the table.

Dave Paine

"Keith" wrote in message

Exxxxxactly!!. Your (my) saw has the capability to alter the blade's
parallelism. The arbor is mounted on cast iron trunnions. Each trunnion
has two bolts securing it to the table. Loosen the two closest to the
operator just a little and the two closest to the motor a bit more. Between
these last two screws you will see a lever held by a bolt which also needs
to be loosened just a little. Moving this lever will skew the corresponding
trunnion. Measure from the same tooth to the miter slot with that tooth
positioned toward the front of the saw and then from the back (motor side).
I have mine adjusted so that the outfeed side of the blade is 1/32" closer
to the left miter slot so that there's no drag as the wood exits the blade.
Works better for me than having them both the same. Others may disagree.
Here's a link to the operator's manual.
http://www.ridgid.com/CatalogDocs/TS3650_6498_eng.pdf