Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

My favorite is a few chunks of MDF/scrap hardwood, clamped tightly and
carefully, then screwed together while still clamped. Especially on
repeated parts - this gives the exact same results on each piece, every
time.

You may have to make a few, but it costs next to nothing, and each
mortise is just like the last. (So make sure the first is right!)

When you're done, toss it in the woodstove as kindling!

On Dec 12, 7:05 am, "mcgyver" wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

"mcgyver" wrote in message
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought
I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build
with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

Scroll down to Router Mortising Jigs:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

While you're there, check out:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects10.htm


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

mcgyver wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.

The version I've settled in with is simply a plywood (or lexan) platform
with two sliding parallel fences carriage bolted to the bottom of a
plunge base. Simple and cheap to make, and a no-brainer to use. I align
the tool with the center of the proposed mortise with a pointed
"centering bit", then install the actual mortising bit. I start and
stop the slide manually at marks on the stock, which are transferred
from a story stick to each part.

My tenons are table sawn with a dado blade and crosscut sled, and hand
tuned with a shoulder plane, so the manual stop method is good enough
for me. I round the corners of the tenon with a rasp or bench chisel.
Each part gets one edge aligned to marks from the story stick, and the
tenon is tuned to fit properly and lettered to match at glue-up time.

I've also routed mortises on my router table and with a gutter-shaped
jig, and like this one the best. Two edge guides will work, as well.

Have fun!
Barry

Barry, very simular to pat warners design. Nice because it allows for chip
removal. thanks
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
t...
mcgyver wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.

The version I've settled in with is simply a plywood (or lexan) platform
with two sliding parallel fences carriage bolted to the bottom of a plunge
base. Simple and cheap to make, and a no-brainer to use. I align the tool
with the center of the proposed mortise with a pointed "centering bit",
then install the actual mortising bit. I start and stop the slide
manually at marks on the stock, which are transferred from a story stick
to each part.

My tenons are table sawn with a dado blade and crosscut sled, and hand
tuned with a shoulder plane, so the manual stop method is good enough for
me. I round the corners of the tenon with a rasp or bench chisel. Each
part gets one edge aligned to marks from the story stick, and the tenon is
tuned to fit properly and lettered to match at glue-up time.

I've also routed mortises on my router table and with a gutter-shaped jig,
and like this one the best. Two edge guides will work, as well.

Have fun!
Barry

Ok, so here's my dilemma. Do you use a 3/4" or so template collar in the
jig you suggested (concerned about chip removal with upspirling 1/2" bit) or
do you mount this to your router base. You see there are 2 very different
approaches to this fairly simple task (100's of variations of those) and i
can't get my head wrapped around one or the other! thanks

"magnavita" wrote in message
oups.com...
My favorite is a few chunks of MDF/scrap hardwood, clamped tightly and
carefully, then screwed together while still clamped. Especially on
repeated parts - this gives the exact same results on each piece, every
time.

You may have to make a few, but it costs next to nothing, and each
mortise is just like the last. (So make sure the first is right!)

When you're done, toss it in the woodstove as kindling!

On Dec 12, 7:05 am, "mcgyver" wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought
I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build
with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

Two come to mine:

ShopNotes #90 has a VERY simple one.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/...mortising-jig/

Here is my personal favorite that I built:

Woodsmith 06/03 issue:

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/147/...he-router-jig/

The first one is DEAD simple but doesn't have flexibility of the
second one. The second one has the ability to create oversize
mortises very easily. I still like the first quite well.

Both jigs work well, so it really depends on what you prefer.

mcgyver wrote:

Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

Pat Barber wrote:
Two come to mine:

ShopNotes #90 has a VERY simple one.

That's exactly what I use. It's an OLD design, I'm sure the first
person to ever get a router probably built one the next day. G

It won't perform many tasks, but it sure does one very well.

will post pics of mine in abpw.

Joe C.

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:_yzfh.464594$1T2.66390@pd7urf2no...
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought
I would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build
with aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

Have had good results from this one:

http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html

PW
************************************************
mcgyver wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

I did in fact lose my mind(mine).....

Pat Barber wrote:

Two come to mine:

Thanks pat, looked through your site and thank you. I would say that yours
is on the high end ($300) and a piece of plywood with a 3/4" slot cut in it
for the collar template is on the other. Thanks to all, I've seen some
really good "in betweens" and will probably adapt alot of them to what i
finally design. thanks
wrote in message
oups.com...
Have had good results from this one:

http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html

PW
************************************************
mcgyver wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought
I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build
with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:CoEfh.469868$5R2.396873@pd7urf3no...
Thanks pat, looked through your site and thank you. I would say that
yours is on the high end ($300) and a piece of plywood with a 3/4" slot
cut in it for the collar template is on the other. Thanks to all, I've
seen some really good "in betweens" and will probably adapt alot of them
to what i finally design. thanks

Take your plywood and tack on parallel pieces of straight stock at the
proper interval for your chosen collar. Cut a bunch of spacers for the
interval between mortises (less twice the collar offset) and a spacer to set
the mortise width (plus twice the collar offset). Tack in the interval
pieces, then plunge the plywood to make your template, attach to the fence
which you clamp to the stock to be mortised.

Did 52 slats (104 mortises) with one similar on the crib project, and it
worked dandy.

If you get it, watch the Router Workshop on PBS a few times. They show
basic jig techniques quite often.

Just finished

George, thanks...did you have any problem with chip removal? Did the chips
get caught up in the template collar track in the plywood? Your way is the
easiest but any problems? thanks
"George" wrote in message
...

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:CoEfh.469868$5R2.396873@pd7urf3no...
Thanks pat, looked through your site and thank you. I would say that
yours is on the high end ($300) and a piece of plywood with a 3/4" slot
cut in it for the collar template is on the other. Thanks to all, I've
seen some really good "in betweens" and will probably adapt alot of them
to what i finally design. thanks

Take your plywood and tack on parallel pieces of straight stock at the
proper interval for your chosen collar. Cut a bunch of spacers for the
interval between mortises (less twice the collar offset) and a spacer to
set the mortise width (plus twice the collar offset). Tack in the
interval pieces, then plunge the plywood to make your template, attach to
the fence which you clamp to the stock to be mortised.

Did 52 slats (104 mortises) with one similar on the crib project, and it
worked dandy.

If you get it, watch the Router Workshop on PBS a few times. They show
basic jig techniques quite often.

Just finished

"mcgyver" wrote in message

George, thanks...did you have any problem with chip removal? Did the
chips
get caught up in the template collar track in the plywood? Your way is
the
easiest but any problems? thanks

IME, for chair leg mortises, there is probably nothing more simple, fast and
effective than a steady hand and a good edge guide. This seems to be David
J. Marks' preferred method.

Are you doing loose tenon joinery?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

Ahhh, I found out the hard way that with the edge guide on the left of the
work piece (and nothing on the right) the bit can "pull" into the left hand
side of the mortice ( when a push of the router is needed to "clean up" the
fartherset edge) hope that makes sense. Simular to climbs cuts ect that have
to do with the rotation of the bit.
"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"mcgyver" wrote in message

George, thanks...did you have any problem with chip removal? Did the
chips
get caught up in the template collar track in the plywood? Your way is
the
easiest but any problems? thanks

IME, for chair leg mortises, there is probably nothing more simple, fast
and
effective than a steady hand and a good edge guide. This seems to be David
J. Marks' preferred method.

Are you doing loose tenon joinery?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

www.routerworkshop.com

Some of the jigs with video online:

www.routerworkshop.com/adjusttenon.html Adjusting The Tenon

www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html Easy To Make Box

www.routerworkshop.com/columns1.html Gluing Fixture For

www.routerworkshop.com/cuttingpattern.html Making A Table

www.routerworkshop.com/dovetail45.html Dovetail Corner

www.routerworkshop.com/dovetaillegs.html Dovetail Joint For

www.routerworkshop.com/ezindex.html Extended Lengths With EZ

www.routerworkshop.com/hingetip.html A Simple Hinge

www.routerworkshop.com/pedtabledovetail.html The Pedestal

www.routerworkshop.com/quickpattern.html Best Way To Make A

www.routerworkshop.com/rbpattern.html Using A Pattern To

www.routerworkshop.com/revinlay.html Making An Inlay

www.routerworkshop.com/smstraightbit.html 1" Straight Bit

www.routerworkshop.com/spacerfenceslot.html Shelf Dividers.

www.routerworkshop.com/veinfixture.html Table Skirt Vein

www.routerworkshop.com/veinjig.html Flute and Veining





"George" wrote in message
...

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:CoEfh.469868$5R2.396873@pd7urf3no...
Thanks pat, looked through your site and thank you. I would say that
yours is on the high end ($300) and a piece of plywood with a 3/4" slot
cut in it for the collar template is on the other. Thanks to all, I've
seen some really good "in betweens" and will probably adapt alot of them
to what i finally design. thanks

Take your plywood and tack on parallel pieces of straight stock at the
proper interval for your chosen collar. Cut a bunch of spacers for the
interval between mortises (less twice the collar offset) and a spacer to
set the mortise width (plus twice the collar offset). Tack in the
interval pieces, then plunge the plywood to make your template, attach to
the fence which you clamp to the stock to be mortised.

Did 52 slats (104 mortises) with one similar on the crib project, and it
worked dandy.

If you get it, watch the Router Workshop on PBS a few times. They show
basic jig techniques quite often.

Just finished

Pat Barber wrote:
Two come to mine:

ShopNotes #90 has a VERY simple one.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/...mortising-jig/

I built that one and it works just fine. Was I making another one, I'd
use transparent plastic rather than opaque plywood for the baseplate,
just to give a better view of what you are doing.

David Starr

wrote:

Have had good results from this one:

http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html


I made a simple one the opposite of this. Mine is a base that has a solid
and movable fence. The solid fence is a support for the router and the
movable fence is behind it for the router to slide against. You lay the
board to be morticed on top of the plywood against the base fence then
another base fence goes next to it and its clamped it together then end
stops clamp on top.

thanks....but really didn't see alot of morticing in those
links......actually can't stand watching those guys ;-)
"resrfglc" wrote in message
news:5MHfh.1014$yZ4.592@trnddc05...
www.routerworkshop.com

Some of the jigs with video online:

www.routerworkshop.com/adjusttenon.html Adjusting The Tenon

www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html Easy To Make Box

www.routerworkshop.com/columns1.html Gluing Fixture For

www.routerworkshop.com/cuttingpattern.html Making A Table

www.routerworkshop.com/dovetail45.html Dovetail Corner

www.routerworkshop.com/dovetaillegs.html Dovetail Joint For

www.routerworkshop.com/ezindex.html Extended Lengths With EZ

www.routerworkshop.com/hingetip.html A Simple Hinge

www.routerworkshop.com/pedtabledovetail.html The Pedestal

www.routerworkshop.com/quickpattern.html Best Way To Make A

www.routerworkshop.com/rbpattern.html Using A Pattern To

www.routerworkshop.com/revinlay.html Making An Inlay

www.routerworkshop.com/smstraightbit.html 1" Straight Bit

www.routerworkshop.com/spacerfenceslot.html Shelf Dividers.

www.routerworkshop.com/veinfixture.html Table Skirt Vein

www.routerworkshop.com/veinjig.html Flute and Veining





"George" wrote in message
...

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:CoEfh.469868$5R2.396873@pd7urf3no...
Thanks pat, looked through your site and thank you. I would say that
yours is on the high end ($300) and a piece of plywood with a 3/4" slot
cut in it for the collar template is on the other. Thanks to all, I've
seen some really good "in betweens" and will probably adapt alot of them
to what i finally design. thanks

Take your plywood and tack on parallel pieces of straight stock at the
proper interval for your chosen collar. Cut a bunch of spacers for the
interval between mortises (less twice the collar offset) and a spacer to
set the mortise width (plus twice the collar offset). Tack in the
interval pieces, then plunge the plywood to make your template, attach to
the fence which you clamp to the stock to be mortised.

Did 52 slats (104 mortises) with one similar on the crib project, and it
worked dandy.

If you get it, watch the Router Workshop on PBS a few times. They show
basic jig techniques quite often.

Just finished

mcgyver wrote:

Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

That would be a good enough excuse for getting the General
International
75-075M1, tilting head, angleable fence and XY table - if you're a
tool
junky and no SWMBO to bitch about the price.

You can make something that works out of ply or MDF - but you'll
probably overlook a key capability and have to modify it or make
an add on. Usually end up with something that sort of works - for
one specific task, or maybe a couple. And when it's not in use
you have to find a place to store it. If you don't make, and keep
notes on how to use it the next time you go to use it there'll be
a learning curve to get over before yo get to making "the real
thing".

Then there's the Trend M& T Jig. Very easy and versatile for
mortises, not quite as easy for tenons. So simplify things and
go with "loose tenons" and just use the mortising process. Oh,
and get a couple of extra clamps - they come in handy.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...endMTjig1.html

You can cut angled mortises on one or two axis as well. Handy
when making chairs (not a problem with some of the A&C /
Greene & Greene / Stickley / Frank Loyd Wright / MacIntosh
chairs)

charlie b

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:WmGfh.467359$1T2.220150@pd7urf2no...
George, thanks...did you have any problem with chip removal? Did the
chips get caught up in the template collar track in the plywood? Your way
is the easiest but any problems? thanks

Up spiral 1/2 bit carried pretty well. Keep the rpm up on the router and
use the vacuum extractor if you have one. I don't. I took what it gave me
on the first pass, hit with air to clear corners and took a finisher.

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:HcKfh.477717$R63.295327@pd7urf1no...
thanks....but really didn't see alot of morticing in those
links......actually can't stand watching those guys ;-)

You saw the method for making the jig you need, so use it.
www.routerworkshop.com/veinjig.html

"mcgyver" wrote in message
Ahhh, I found out the hard way that with the edge guide on the left of the
work piece (and nothing on the right) the bit can "pull" into the left
hand
side of the mortice ( when a push of the router is needed to "clean up"
the
fartherset edge) hope that makes sense. Simular to climbs cuts ect that
have
to do with the rotation of the bit.

If that's the case, then I'm thinking that you perhaps misunderstand the
correct use of a router.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

mcgyver wrote:
Ahhh, I found out the hard way that with the edge guide on the left of the
work piece (and nothing on the right) the bit can "pull" into the left hand
side of the mortice ( when a push of the router is needed to "clean up" the
fartherset edge) hope that makes sense. Simular to climbs cuts ect that have
to do with the rotation of the bit.

Which is why you can put _two_ edge guides on the same rails, or if you
don't have two guides, spend 30 minutes cobbling together the wooden
base with two rails. G

Shallower cuts can also go a long way toward curing torque issues.

David Starr wrote:

I built that one and it works just fine. Was I making another one, I'd
use transparent plastic rather than opaque plywood for the baseplate,
just to give a better view of what you are doing.

Cut a bigger hole.

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:_yzfh.464594$1T2.66390@pd7urf2no...
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought
I would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build
with aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

I'm a little late for this but here is mine.
Dave
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/mortisejig.htm

mcgyver wrote:
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought I
would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build with
aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

Off-line, there is a nice one in Creating Coffee Tables: An Artistic
Approach by Craig Vandall Stevens. It is versatile because it can do
side and end mortises. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED book.

Impressive! Where'd ya get that angle? 4" x 6" (1/4" thick?) Impressive find
or expensive purchase?

Also - kudos on the gate!


"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

"mcgyver" wrote in message
news:_yzfh.464594$1T2.66390@pd7urf2no...
Been looking around the web (DAGS) looking for a morticing jig to build.
Seen ones from very simple to very elaborate. Before I build one thought
I would see what everyone thought really worked. have 6 chairs to build
with aprox 20 mortices per chair. thanks

I'm a little late for this but here is mine.
Dave
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/mortisejig.htm

What is the preferred bit? Spiral upcut the same thickness as the
mortise? One of the sites looked at recommended a two flute straight
bit (which are quite a bit cheaper).

Spiral upcuts have their upsides and downsides (pardon the pun).

Upside: You can plunge straight down into the mortise, where with a two
flute, you have to move back and forth as there is no cutting surface on the
point of the bit.
Downside: spiral upcuts have a tendency to be yanked down into the
workpiece. This can be alleviated by setting the stop on a plunge router.
I like to use my stop for the finished depth of the mortise, so this could
be a small problem unless you have multiple stops (most plunge routers do).
As you mentioned, they are expensive and success rates with sharpening are
(from what I've heard) not good.

I use 2 flute straight cutters for all my mortises.

my $.02 worth, ymmv, etc etc....

"MB" wrote in message
ups.com...
What is the preferred bit? Spiral upcut the same thickness as the
mortise? One of the sites looked at recommended a two flute straight
bit (which are quite a bit cheaper).

"MB" wrote in message
What is the preferred bit? Spiral upcut the same thickness as the
mortise? One of the sites looked at recommended a two flute straight
bit (which are quite a bit cheaper).

I have good luck with spiral upcut, two or four flute, "end mills" of the
same diameter as the desired mortise and, besides the extra lengths
available for deep mortises, they are often cheaper. Last time I ordered,
the 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" 4 flute end mills were $16, $19, and $27
respectively.

www.travers.com

PDF of their catalog online at:

https://www.travers.com/htdocs/catalogs.shtml

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

2 flute, solid carbide aluminum cutting end mills work as well or
better than spiral router bits and are cheaper. Also, as for
sharpening, send them (end mills or spiral router bits) to a shop that
sharpens metalworking tools. These bits would be considered simple to
these guys. I wouldn't expect wodworking tool grinders to have the
equipment to sharpen spiral bits.

Joe wrote:
Spiral upcuts have their upsides and downsides (pardon the pun).

Upside: You can plunge straight down into the mortise, where with a two
flute, you have to move back and forth as there is no cutting surface on the
point of the bit.
Downside: spiral upcuts have a tendency to be yanked down into the
workpiece. This can be alleviated by setting the stop on a plunge router.
I like to use my stop for the finished depth of the mortise, so this could
be a small problem unless you have multiple stops (most plunge routers do).
As you mentioned, they are expensive and success rates with sharpening are
(from what I've heard) not good.