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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cheap method for razor sharp chisels
Hi everybody,
I had posted a few days ago about sharpening chisels with sandpaper and having trouble with the sandpaper loosing it's grit too quickly. Yesterday, I recieved my order from Lee Valley for their sharpening combo ($35) that has a white grinding wheel, a felt wheel and a stick of green compound. After using the white wheel to establish an angle, I was able to move from 220 to 2000 grit paper with only 8 - 10 stokes per paper. I think that my problem before was that I was using the sandpaper to try to establish the angle. After running through the sandpaper grits, I moved back to the grinder and used the felt wheel/green compound. I was very impressed with the results - I've never used a chisel that was so sharp. I was able to take a really beat up 1" chisel, put a razor sharp edge on it in under 10 minutes. I can now get shavings that you can almost see through from cross grain cuts in ash. Anyway, for anyone that wants to get started in sharpening, I've spent about $45 on the LV kit, a can of spray adhesive and a few packs of sandpaper - WELL worth the money to get such great results. Mike |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cheap method for razor sharp chisels
Also, after hollow grinding on the wheel, you only need to sharpen the
"outsides" of the hollow. Meaning: Don't worry about getting the whole face of the chisel flat, but just the leading edge and tail. Even quicker. Tom Mike wrote: Hi everybody, I had posted a few days ago about sharpening chisels with sandpaper and having trouble with the sandpaper loosing it's grit too quickly. Yesterday, I recieved my order from Lee Valley for their sharpening combo ($35) that has a white grinding wheel, a felt wheel and a stick of green compound. After using the white wheel to establish an angle, I was able to move from 220 to 2000 grit paper with only 8 - 10 stokes per paper. I think that my problem before was that I was using the sandpaper to try to establish the angle. After running through the sandpaper grits, I moved back to the grinder and used the felt wheel/green compound. I was very impressed with the results - I've never used a chisel that was so sharp. I was able to take a really beat up 1" chisel, put a razor sharp edge on it in under 10 minutes. I can now get shavings that you can almost see through from cross grain cuts in ash. Anyway, for anyone that wants to get started in sharpening, I've spent about $45 on the LV kit, a can of spray adhesive and a few packs of sandpaper - WELL worth the money to get such great results. Mike |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cheap method for razor sharp chisels
"Mike" wrote in message ps.com... Hi everybody, I had posted a few days ago about sharpening chisels with sandpaper and having trouble with the sandpaper loosing it's grit too quickly. Yesterday, I recieved my order from Lee Valley for their sharpening combo ($35) that has a white grinding wheel, a felt wheel and a stick of green compound. After using the white wheel to establish an angle, I was able to move from 220 to 2000 grit paper with only 8 - 10 stokes per paper. I think that my problem before was that I was using the sandpaper to try to establish the angle. After running through the sandpaper grits, I moved back to the grinder and used the felt wheel/green compound. I was very impressed with the results - I've never used a chisel that was so sharp. I was able to take a really beat up 1" chisel, put a razor sharp edge on it in under 10 minutes. I can now get shavings that you can almost see through from cross grain cuts in ash. Anyway, for anyone that wants to get started in sharpening, I've spent about $45 on the LV kit, a can of spray adhesive and a few packs of sandpaper - WELL worth the money to get such great results. That's great. Everybody has their own quirky method of sharpening. Personally I like to use a cheapy diamond faced 'stone' . The set of three grits is very cheap, then I have an extra fine for when I want an extra fine edge. I couldn't be doing with a lot of sheets of paper and glass and adhesive. What I miss is that in the old days my oilstones were always slightly hollowed out so I could always easily put a slightly convex edge on a plane blade so that there were never corners to make visible marks on a face. Tim w |
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