I think the collet is toast, as it's got a bad case of bit creep. This is
less noticeable with some bits, but makes the router pretty much useless for
any delicate work.

I was originally going to buy a second more powerful router and dedicate it
to a table, but I can't afford to do both. As far a I know the RE175 needs a
completely new shaft to replace the collet?

Any thoughts?

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
Any thoughts?

Porter Cable, Bosch, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Hitachi, etc. You won't be sorry.

Fri, Nov 10, 2006, 11:28pm (Bill*Stock) doth
queryeth:
I think the collet is toast, as it's got a bad case of bit creep. snip
Any thoughts?

I think you didn't say. But if you bottom your bits they'll creep.



JOAT
What's the difference between a cattle grid and a lawyer?

People slow down before they run over a catte grid.

"J T" wrote in message
...
Fri, Nov 10, 2006, 11:28pm (Bill Stock) doth
queryeth:
I think the collet is toast, as it's got a bad case of bit creep. snip
Any thoughts?

I think you didn't say. But if you bottom your bits they'll creep.


Yabbot, but once they've creeped off the bottom they should stop. I was
doing some dados a while a go and the bit creeped much more than that.

Sat, Nov 11, 2006, 1:17pm (Bill*Stock) doth sayeth:
Yabbot, but once they've creeped off the bottom they should stop. I was
doing some dados a while a go and the bit creeped much more than that.

So you'd think. Never worked for me.

I bottom my bit, raise it up maybe 1/8", tighten the collet - no
creep.




JOAT
What's the difference between a cattle grid and a lawyer?

People slow down before they run over a catte grid.

No they won't. Bottoming the bit makes it difficult if not impossible for
the collet to grip the shank tightly. After they creep up enough to clear
the bottom, they will still be loose.
"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
Yabbot, but once they've creeped off the bottom they should stop. I was
doing some dados a while a go and the bit creeped much more than that.

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...
No they won't. Bottoming the bit makes it difficult if not impossible for
the collet to grip the shank tightly. After they creep up enough to clear
the bottom, they will still be loose.
"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
Yabbot, but once they've creeped off the bottom they should stop. I was
doing some dados a while a go and the bit creeped much more than that.

Thanks, makes sense.

Bill Stock wrote:
I think the collet is toast, as it's got a bad case of bit creep.

My creep problem happened only on some solid-carbide bits; the
carbide surface was too polished and slick. For me, the solution was
to etch the carbide (chlorine bleach has some effect, but I added
a little bit of electricity). With about 20 mA of current, carbide
(+)
polarity, in a bleach/water solution, the mirror finish clouded up
in a minute.

I only dipped the shank in the solution, of course.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Bill Stock wrote:
I think the collet is toast, as it's got a bad case of bit creep.

My creep problem happened only on some solid-carbide bits; the
carbide surface was too polished and slick. For me, the solution was
to etch the carbide (chlorine bleach has some effect, but I added
a little bit of electricity). With about 20 mA of current, carbide
(+)
polarity, in a bleach/water solution, the mirror finish clouded up
in a minute.

I only dipped the shank in the solution, of course.


Thanks, I'll have to play with some scrap to confirm my results. I still
haven't ruled out my collet. I've also seen it happen with my Rail & Stile
bit from LV. But I can't swear I didn't bottom the bit.

I've had my eye on the shiny orange Triton router. Such a well rated tool
for the $s.