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#1
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Table saw questions
Hi
I am an amatuer woofworker and I currently have a 10" Sears table saw with a problem. The pully on the arbor frequently slides off the arbor and it is a real nuisance to replace. Last night it was really bad. It stayed on for one cut and then slid off. Happened three times. Note that the original belt was replaced some time back with a link belt. When I replace the pully on the arbor I take care that it is aligned and the set screw is tightened to the key. Not sure what else to do. Any suggestions. On a related note I am thinking of upgrading, possibly to a cabinet saw, or at least a better contractors saw. Remeber, I am an occasional, amatuer and the saw would not get heavy use but I want something accurate, reliable and easy to maintain. Suggestions are solicited and welcome. |
#2
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Table saw questions
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#3
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Table saw questions
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#4
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Table saw questions
wrote: Hi I am an amatuer woofworker and I currently have a 10" Sears table saw with a problem. The pully on the arbor frequently slides off the arbor and it is a real nuisance to replace. Last night it was really bad. It stayed on for one cut and then slid off. Happened three times. Note that the original belt was replaced some time back with a link belt. When I replace the pully on the arbor I take care that it is aligned and the set screw is tightened to the key. Not sure what else to do. Any suggestions. Are you saying that the set screw tightens against the key on the arbor shaft? If so, the key may be angled slightly so that the screw is actually wedging the pulley off, check this. Also: Make sure the bottom of the set screw is flat -file or sand if needed The key or point on shaft that screw tightens against should be flat - file if needed Ensure everything is clean and oil/grease free Removable loctite make cure the problem but may make it difficult to remove the screw later but that is its purpose. |
#5
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Table saw questions
Some of the regulars will probably say "Here he is again." but if you decide
to upgrade take a look at Grizzly. My experience with two of their saws: 1) I have owned a 1023s Cabinet saw for about five years. I think it is as good as anything on the market under $1,700-1,800 - Including Unisaw. Lots of power, good accuracy and the stock Shop Fox Classic Fence is great. With shipping you can still get one for a little over $1,000. http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1023S 2) We recently helped our son finish a house in SW Missouri. He purchased a Grizzly G0444Z with the Aluminum version of the Classic fence. I gave it a pretty good workout ripping hundreds of board feet of Oak and cutting many sheets of MDF and Oak veneer plywood, not to mention a lot of laminate flooring. The 2hp motor never strained and we got good cuts. I still prefer my old Iron Classic fence but the aluminum version is a good choice too. Griz has good customer service and anything I have ordered has been delivered within a few days. The 1023 arrived, on dock, 36 hours after internet order. RonB |
#6
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Table saw questions
Thanks all for the advice and quick response.
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#7
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Table saw questions
Ron Thanks for your response and good advice. |
#8
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Table saw questions
Ron Thanks for your response and good advice. |
#9
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Table saw questions
wrote in message oups.com... Hi I am an amatuer woofworker and I currently have a 10" Sears table saw with a problem. The pully on the arbor frequently slides off the arbor and it is a real nuisance to replace. Last night it was really bad. It stayed on for one cut and then slid off. Happened three times. Note that the original belt was replaced some time back with a link belt. When I replace the pully on the arbor I take care that it is aligned and the set screw is tightened to the key. Not sure what else to do. Any suggestions. I have had this same problem and here's what I've done. First - clean up your arbor shaft. Typically the shaft gets scared up a bit from this problem and a light lick with a file to smooth everything down nice again is in order. Obviously, don't set about to file off lots of steel - just clean up the shaft. As well - put a new key in. Likely the surface of the key is gouged from the set screw. Then - get a new set screw. Set screws do not have an indefinate life. They rely on a pretty small contact point in order to really hold and after they've been loosened and tightened a few times the end flattens out. After that they don't bite as they should. On a related note I am thinking of upgrading, possibly to a cabinet saw, or at least a better contractors saw. Remeber, I am an occasional, amatuer and the saw would not get heavy use but I want something accurate, reliable and easy to maintain. Suggestions are solicited and welcome. What model saw do you currently have? This problem is fairly common on the Model 100 which is a great saw other than this problem. Get past it and you really have a very good saw there, if that's the saw you have. -- -Mike- |
#10
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Table saw questions
Thanks Mike It is a model 113, about 10 years old. |
#12
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Table saw questions
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#13
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Table saw questions
"dpb" wrote in message oups.com... I expect the real problem is it was/is an inexpensive "pot-metal" cast pulley that wasn't ever very true and owing to having run loose the bore is "hogged out" so that it will not (and most importantly _can_ not be) tightened and retain its tightness under load. You need to replace the pulley, preferably w/ a machined one, but at least w/ a new replacement that will have a true and accurate diameter bore. If you're careful to ensure it is tight periodically, even another cast will probably last quite some time unless the shaft is now also worn excessively, but in general, the shafts are sufficiently harder than the pulley they rarely are too bad. This is really very true. I concentrated on the set screw because the OP stated that he had gone to a link belt and I assumed he also went with a good quality pulley at the same time. Maybe a rash assumption. -- -Mike- |
#14
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Table saw questions
Mike You made a reasonable assumption but it wasn't true. I should have gotton machined pulleys. I didn't. I will. Thanks all for advice. |
#15
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Table saw questions
Mike You made a reasonable assumption but it wasn't true. I should have gotton machined pulleys. I didn't. I will. Thanks all for advice. |
#16
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Table saw questions
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#17
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Table saw questions
Are you saying that the set screw tightens against the key on the arbor shaft? Ensure everything is clean and oil/grease free Removable loctite make cure the problem but may make it difficult to remove the screw later but that is its purpose. If the shaft shows no marks from set screw, look for two set screws, stacked up. |
#18
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Table saw questions
In article .com,
wrote: Hi I am an amatuer woofworker and I currently have a 10" Sears table saw with a problem. The pully on the arbor frequently slides off the arbor and it is a real nuisance to replace. Last night it was really bad. It stayed on for one cut and then slid off. Happened three times. Note that the original belt was replaced some time back with a link belt. When I replace the pully on the arbor I take care that it is aligned and the set screw is tightened to the key. Not sure what else to do. Any suggestions. On a related note I am thinking of upgrading, possibly to a cabinet saw, or at least a better contractors saw. Remeber, I am an occasional, amatuer and the saw would not get heavy use but I want something accurate, reliable and easy to maintain. Suggestions are solicited and welcome. I guess you have already checked the condition of the pulley including the arbor shaft bore, and the arbor itself, and made sure that the pulley slides onto the arbor snugly? (Is that a word?) How about alignment of arbor & motor shafts? Are they parallel? Did you remove the set screw completely from the pulley? Sometimes there are 2, one under the other. With the pulley removed from the arbor, are you able to turn the setscrew far enough so that its end pokes into the bore? Let us know what you find. -- Often wrong, never in doubt. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - |
#19
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Table saw questions
In article , "Rick Samuel"
wrote: Are you saying that the set screw tightens against the key on the arbor shaft? Ensure everything is clean and oil/grease free Removable loctite make cure the problem but may make it difficult to remove the screw later but that is its purpose. If the shaft shows no marks from set screw, look for two set screws, stacked up. *There* is a tip for the files. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
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