Hi All,
A couple of quick questions regarding turning an extension table into a router
table top.
Is there a standard cutout size for the cutout, or do I buy an insert plate and
size it around that?
I've never had great luck with cutouts, how would you do the cutout (router and
template)?
As for the T-slot grooves for the router fence, how long would you recommend
and would you put them on both sides of the bit?
It's a Jet Extension Table with a melamine top and MDF core.

Thanks,

Kevin Daly

As to the insert plate, since you live in the US you might want to visit
Woodhaven's web site. They sell a template along with the insert. Cheers, JG

Kevin Daly wrote:

Hi All,
A couple of quick questions regarding turning an extension table into a router
table top.
Is there a standard cutout size for the cutout, or do I buy an insert plate and
size it around that?
I've never had great luck with cutouts, how would you do the cutout (router and
template)?
As for the T-slot grooves for the router fence, how long would you recommend
and would you put them on both sides of the bit?
It's a Jet Extension Table with a melamine top and MDF core.

Thanks,

Kevin Daly

"Kevin Daly" wrote in message
Is there a standard cutout size for the cutout, or do I buy an insert
plate and
size it around that?

Every brand is different. Most come with a template.


I've never had great luck with cutouts, how would you do the cutout
(router and
template)?

You have to cut two levels. The center is removed completely, the edge is
left intact to support the mounting plate.


As for the T-slot grooves for the router fence, how long would you
recommend
and would you put them on both sides of the bit?

Mine is in the front only, YMMV.
Ed

"Kevin Daly" wrote in message
...


Hi All,
Is there a standard cutout size for the cutout, or do I buy an insert
plate and
size it around that?

Don't think there's a standard size. Perhaps a "more common" size, but in
the end I think you pick the plate you want and that drives the size. I went
with the Rousseau plate. You can buy a template, but I saw a Wood article on
how to use 4 pieces of scrap MDF to make a template. I ended up spending
the template $ on the router bit mentioned in the article. Results were
fine, even for my first attempt.

"Kevin Daly" wrote in message
...
Hi All,
A couple of quick questions regarding turning an extension table into a
router
table top.
Is there a standard cutout size for the cutout, or do I buy an insert
plate and
size it around that?
I've never had great luck with cutouts, how would you do the cutout
(router and
template)?
As for the T-slot grooves for the router fence, how long would you
recommend
and would you put them on both sides of the bit?
It's a Jet Extension Table with a melamine top and MDF core.

Thanks,

Kevin Daly

1) Just about every insert is different.

2) Are you doing a true T-slot or just a groove? Straight groove is much
simpler.

3) Only one full length slot is necessary.

4) MDF is not the ideal material for a router table top IMO. Two things to
consider, first for the T-slot, though the melamine will act as an hard
surface MDF chips and flakes quite easily, I would consider cutting an
oversize slot, gluing in a hardwood strip and re-rout the slot in that.
Second, MDF is not very stiff and with the weight of the router might begin
to sag, consider adding stiffening to the frame.

Bernard R

On 6-Apr-2004, "Bernard Randall" wrote:

As for the T-slot grooves for the router fence, how long would you
recommend
and would you put them on both sides of the bit?

2) Are you doing a true T-slot or just a groove? Straight groove is much
simpler.
[...]
4) MDF is not the ideal material for a router table top IMO. Two things to
consider, first for the T-slot, though the melamine will act as an hard
surface MDF chips and flakes quite easily, I would consider cutting an
oversize slot, gluing in a hardwood strip and re-rout the slot in that.

What I'm currently doing is using an aluminum extrusion T-slot from Lee
Valley. These can be screwed into a 3/4" x 1/2" slot and will be
stronger than a T-slot in hardwood. It also means that you don't need
a T-slot router bit.

I'm also using two slots, one on either side of the bit. They are
being arranged so that the fence is supported at its outer quarter points.
That is, if the fence is, say, 36 inches long, the T-slots are 9 inches
in from each end.

3) Only one full length slot is necessary.

I am using two slots since that will prevent wiggle compared to one. I'm
also using cam-clamps to lock the fence in position (also available from
LV).

I can't show a picture, since the router table top is still a bunch of
parts in the basement.

Mike

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
On 6-Apr-2004, "Bernard Randall" wrote:

snip
What I'm currently doing is using an aluminum extrusion T-slot from Lee
Valley. These can be screwed into a 3/4" x 1/2" slot and will be
stronger than a T-slot in hardwood. It also means that you don't need
a T-slot router bit.

snip
I am using two slots since that will prevent wiggle compared to one. I'm
also using cam-clamps to lock the fence in position (also available from
LV).

snip
Mike

As a little aside to this discussion: I made my fence from a piece of 80-20
extrusion I picked up from the scrap yard. I made a single acme screw
positioner for it which gives me thou accuracy but I think the interesting
part is that I sealed the ends and bottom of the extrusion and use use
vacuum as the hold-down. Lifting the fence lifts the whole table, useful
for fixing feather boards and other hold down fixtures. The slots in the
80-20 allow for easy movement of the hardwood faces.

Bernard R

2) Are you doing a true T-slot or just a groove? Straight groove is much
simpler.

It'll be just a straight groove. I have aluminum t-slot tracks that I
purchased from Woodcraft.

The frame of the table tob is hardwood (Maple?) and the table seems plenty
stout for supporting the router.

Thanks for the replies.

Kevin Daly

One thing I would like to share - about building my own router top, with
custom insert...

When you get the rabbet just right, insert in, and all is LEVEL, with no lip
as you slide across the join from wood to insert (top wise), be prepared for
the incredible ability of wood dust to work its way under your screwed down
joint, insert to table. I am about to remove my previously levelled insert,
and work out some way of sealing the join so that the dust doesnt work its
way under my clear insert and force it to rise - creating a lip....

Mike R.

Peace

"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Kevin Daly" wrote in message
...


Hi All,
Is there a standard cutout size for the cutout, or do I buy an insert
plate and
size it around that?

Don't think there's a standard size. Perhaps a "more common" size, but in
the end I think you pick the plate you want and that drives the size. I
went
with the Rousseau plate. You can buy a template, but I saw a Wood article
on
how to use 4 pieces of scrap MDF to make a template. I ended up spending
the template $ on the router bit mentioned in the article. Results were
fine, even for my first attempt.

On Sun, 09 May 2004 04:58:02 GMT, "Mike Richardson"
wrote:


I am about to remove my previously levelled insert,
and work out some way of sealing the join so that the dust doesnt work its
way under my clear insert and force it to rise - creating a lip....

Glue? Countersunk screws and table top fasteners?

Barry

One technique is to rebate deeper than necessary by about 8mm and use evenly
spaced screws to support the plate (so the plate 'floats' on the screwheads.
You can lower and raise the plate with the screws to allow for any movement
or warping of the plate that way.

--
Greg

"B a r r y" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 09 May 2004 04:58:02 GMT, "Mike Richardson"
wrote:


I am about to remove my previously levelled insert,
and work out some way of sealing the join so that the dust doesnt work
its
way under my clear insert and force it to rise - creating a lip....

Glue? Countersunk screws and table top fasteners?

Barry

"Greg Millen" wrote in message
s.com...
One technique is to rebate deeper than necessary by about 8mm and use
evenly
spaced screws to support the plate (so the plate 'floats' on the
screwheads.
You can lower and raise the plate with the screws to allow for any
movement
or warping of the plate that way.

--


My router plate sits on just the coners, the rest of the top is cut straight
through. I am planing on completely removing the step in the corners, and
add a steel bracket at each corner with an adjusting screw.
Greg