Hi everyone. The thread about blade guards the other day has me
worried again. I have a delta contractor's saw with the horrible stock
blade guard. It's collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. So I figure
it's time to get an over arm blade guard. Here are the features I'd
like:

Price isn't that big of a concern. I'll pay more if I get more. Having
said that, $200 sounds right.

I'd like dust collection, proferably with a 4" duct.

I'd like for it to be able to swing out of the way for the tenoning jig
for example.

I'd like for it to be as invisible as possible. ;-)

If it could integrate anti-kickback pawls, that would be great, but
seems unlikely.

I'd like for the fence to get reasonably close to the guard without
disrupting things.

I have my router table integrated into my table saw. So if it were
quick and easy to detach the DC hose from the blade guard and plug it
into the router table fence, that would be ideal.


Things I don't want:

When the board hits the front, you get a mexican stand-off with the
board pushing on the contraption rather than it lifting up and out of
the way.

And just the opposite, when I push a board through it, I don't want it
to have a counter weight that's too heavy such that it sails up in the
air, then slowly comes back down and bounces.

Bent clear plastic that distorts the view of the blade.

Junky construction.


If anyone else can suggest features I didn't think of, that would be
great also.

tia

brian

"brianlanning" wrote in message
Hi everyone. The thread about blade guards the other day has me
worried again. I have a delta contractor's saw with the horrible stock
blade guard. It's collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. So I figure
it's time to get an over arm blade guard. Here are the features I'd

Possibly make your own? Depending of course on how much of a rush you're in
to have one. I'll upload a picture I save to ABPW.

In article . com, "brianlanning" wrote:
Hi everyone. The thread about blade guards the other day has me
worried again. I have a delta contractor's saw with the horrible stock
blade guard. It's collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. So I figure
it's time to get an over arm blade guard. Here are the features I'd
like:

Price isn't that big of a concern. I'll pay more if I get more. Having
said that, $200 sounds right.

I'd like dust collection, proferably with a 4" duct.

Just make sure you read the post from a couple days ago about a kickback
caused (apparently) by the suction from dust collection on an overarm guard
lifting a lightweight offcut into the blade...

I'd like for it to be able to swing out of the way for the tenoning jig
for example.

I'd say that's a requirement, not just an "I'd like it" feature.

I'd like for it to be as invisible as possible. ;-)

Clear lexan should do the trick just fine. Plexiglass, even 1/4" thick, will
fracture if it gets hit by a blade-propelled offcut. DAMHIKT.

If it could integrate anti-kickback pawls, that would be great, but
seems unlikely.

Hard to see how that could be incorporated effectively into an overarm guard.
Integrated with the splitter or riving knife, sure. But there's gotta be too
much give and flex in an overarm guard for it to provide any effective
protection against kickback.

I'd like for the fence to get reasonably close to the guard without
disrupting things.

Note that this may be incompatible with your desire for a 4" dust collection
hose.

I have my router table integrated into my table saw. So if it were
quick and easy to detach the DC hose from the blade guard and plug it
into the router table fence, that would be ideal.

That's where my router table is, too. I used a wye fitting in the dust duct,
with separate hoses (and separate blast gates) for the table saw and the
router.


Things I don't want:

When the board hits the front, you get a mexican stand-off with the
board pushing on the contraption rather than it lifting up and out of
the way.

If the front is bevelled or curved on the underside properly (like the factory
guards are), this shouldn't be an issue.

And just the opposite, when I push a board through it, I don't want it
to have a counter weight that's too heavy such that it sails up in the
air, then slowly comes back down and bounces.

Springs instead of counterweights?

Bent clear plastic that distorts the view of the blade.

Oh boy, here we go again. You don't need to see the blade.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

The Delta Uniguard will do what you want. It does not have
dust collection.

http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=139&p=2407


The Biesemeyer guard comes with a removeable splitter and
can be ordered for dust collection.

http://www.biesemeyer.com/safety/index.htm

Here is the story on overhead blade guards:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...F.aspx?id=2752



brianlanning wrote:

Hi everyone. The thread about blade guards the other day has me
worried again. I have a delta contractor's saw with the horrible stock
blade guard. It's collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. So I figure
it's time to get an over arm blade guard. Here are the features I'd
like:

Upscale wrote:
Possibly make your own? Depending of course on how much of a rush you're in
to have one. I'll upload a picture I save to ABPW.

I've considered that route also. At this point, I have more money than
time. And I'd rather finish up some other project first. Still, that
may be what I do if I can't find what I'm after.

brian

brianlanning wrote:
Hi everyone. The thread about blade guards the other day has me
worried again. I have a delta contractor's saw with the horrible stock
blade guard. It's collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. So I figure
it's time to get an over arm blade guard. Here are the features I'd
like:

Price isn't that big of a concern. I'll pay more if I get more. Having
said that, $200 sounds right.

I'd like dust collection, proferably with a 4" duct.

I'd like for it to be able to swing out of the way for the tenoning jig
for example.

I'd like for it to be as invisible as possible. ;-)

If it could integrate anti-kickback pawls, that would be great, but
seems unlikely.

I'd like for the fence to get reasonably close to the guard without
disrupting things.

I have my router table integrated into my table saw. So if it were
quick and easy to detach the DC hose from the blade guard and plug it
into the router table fence, that would be ideal.


Things I don't want:

When the board hits the front, you get a mexican stand-off with the
board pushing on the contraption rather than it lifting up and out of
the way.

And just the opposite, when I push a board through it, I don't want it
to have a counter weight that's too heavy such that it sails up in the
air, then slowly comes back down and bounces.

Bent clear plastic that distorts the view of the blade.

Junky construction.


If anyone else can suggest features I didn't think of, that would be
great also.

tia

brian

This sounds like it would meet most if not all of your criteria and the
best part is you get to build it yourself.

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...rm_guard.shtml

Pat Barber wrote:

: Here is the story on overhead blade guards:

: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...F.aspx?id=2752

If anyone's interested, I have an original-style (see final page of the article above) Brett
Guard for $150.

-- Andy Barss

On 30 Oct 2006 10:22:41 -0800, brianlanning wrote:
So I figure it's time to get an over arm blade guard.

Check out the Shark Guard:

http://www.leestyron.com

Its not overarm mounted. I have the Beisemeyer splitter mount in my JTAS10,
and Lee made a version of his Shark Guard for me that fits that mount.

It does not have a 4-inch dust port. You'll need an adaptor for that.

Otherwise, I think it hits most of your "wants".

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

RayV wrote:

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...rm_guard.shtml

I built that guard about 6 months ago for ~$65 US.

I'm very happy with it. If it's in the way, you can simply raise it up,
tighten the knobs, and pretend you don't have a guard.

On 30 Oct 2006 10:22:41 -0800, "brianlanning"
wrote:

Hi everyone. The thread about blade guards the other day has me
worried again. I have a delta contractor's saw with the horrible stock
blade guard. It's collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. So I figure
it's time to get an over arm blade guard. Here are the features I'd
like:

Price isn't that big of a concern. I'll pay more if I get more. Having
said that, $200 sounds right.

My shop is in the basement, I built mine to attach to the ceiling for
about $50. Basically it's just a telescoping plywood box within a
box. I made the inner box in two halves, basically two U's, that
could slide independent of each other. Each side has a T-track and
locking knob. The guard halves mount on the end with another short
section of t-track for fine adjustments.

I'd like dust collection, proferably with a 4" duct.

Since it's hollow it can be the duct itself, though I haven't done it.

I'd like for it to be able to swing out of the way for the tenoning jig
for example.

Mine can slide up about 20 inches or so off the table. My saw is on a
mobile base so if I need to do tenons on something longer than that I
can pull the saw out. I have marks on the floor that help get the saw
back in the proper spot. I had considered having the whole guard be
hinged at the top so it could pivot up to the ceiling, but

I'd like for it to be as invisible as possible. ;-)

Mine is glaring and in your face, literally. It says "Use me or I'll
smack you on the nose" every time I go up to the saw.

If it could integrate anti-kickback pawls, that would be great, but
seems unlikely.

Not likely.

I'd like for the fence to get reasonably close to the guard without
disrupting things.

I sized mine with only a 2"x2" inside dimension, smaller than you'd
like for dust collection, and it still gets in the way of the fence a
lot. I can slide the fence side of the guard up out of the way and
leave the other side down for some protection.

I have my router table integrated into my table saw. So if it were
quick and easy to detach the DC hose from the blade guard and plug it
into the router table fence, that would be ideal.


Things I don't want:

When the board hits the front, you get a mexican stand-off with the
board pushing on the contraption rather than it lifting up and out of
the way.

And just the opposite, when I push a board through it, I don't want it
to have a counter weight that's too heavy such that it sails up in the
air, then slowly comes back down and bounces.

Mine doesn't automatically adjust to height, I'd rather have it
sitting just about the stock. It only takes seconds to adjust it,
seconds you can use to think through what you're about to do.


-Leuf

In article , Leuf wrote:
[long snip]

Mine doesn't automatically adjust to height, I'd rather have it
sitting just about the stock. It only takes seconds to adjust it,
seconds you can use to think through what you're about to do.

I like the way you think. Can you post pics to ABPW?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 20:51:29 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

Leuf wrote:
[long snip]

Mine doesn't automatically adjust to height, I'd rather have it
sitting just about the stock. It only takes seconds to adjust it,
seconds you can use to think through what you're about to do.

I like the way you think. Can you post pics to ABPW?

http://krtwood.com/guard.html

I originally had the inner part as one piece and there was a single
knob on the front, and I had to experiment with different knob
placements to make it more sturdy - if you're wondering what's with
the plugged holes on the front. You probably can't see the end of the
drill bit I broke off drilling the lexan, but I see it every day.


-Leuf

In article , Leuf wrote:
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 20:51:29 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

Leuf wrote:
[long snip]

Mine doesn't automatically adjust to height, I'd rather have it
sitting just about the stock. It only takes seconds to adjust it,
seconds you can use to think through what you're about to do.

I like the way you think. Can you post pics to ABPW?

http://krtwood.com/guard.html

I originally had the inner part as one piece and there was a single
knob on the front, and I had to experiment with different knob
placements to make it more sturdy - if you're wondering what's with
the plugged holes on the front. You probably can't see the end of the
drill bit I broke off drilling the lexan, but I see it every day.

Pretty clever. Thanks for the pics.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.