Ok, I just got a new Sears Radial saw, because my old
one broke and I couldn't find a part for it. But the
new one has a frustrating design on the blade guard. To
remove the blade guard you have to take a screw out at
the bottom of the inner blade guard. And, since it is
right at the bottom of the guard, right up against the
blade, it is almost impossible for me to get a good hold
on it to get it in and out. Does anybody have any tips
on ways to make that easier? When I was setting
everything up I wound up with several small cuts on my
knuckles trying to get hold of it.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

Remove a blade guard? DANGER Will Robinson!

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Ok, I just got a new Sears Radial saw, because my old one broke and I
couldn't find a part for it. But the new one has a frustrating design on
the blade guard. To remove the blade guard you have to take a screw out
at the bottom of the inner blade guard. And, since it is right at the
bottom of the guard, right up against the blade, it is almost impossible
for me to get a good hold on it to get it in and out. Does anybody have
any tips on ways to make that easier? When I was setting everything up I
wound up with several small cuts on my knuckles trying to get hold of it.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

Remove a blade guard? DANGER Will Robinson!

How are you supposed to remove the blade to change to a dado or moulding
cutter without removing the guard?

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Jim Giblin" wrote in message
news:4EFme.15654$Ib.8311@trndny03...
Remove a blade guard? DANGER Will Robinson!

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Ok, I just got a new Sears Radial saw, because my old one broke and I
couldn't find a part for it. But the new one has a frustrating design
on
the blade guard. To remove the blade guard you have to take a screw out
at the bottom of the inner blade guard. And, since it is right at the
bottom of the guard, right up against the blade, it is almost impossible
for me to get a good hold on it to get it in and out. Does anybody have
any tips on ways to make that easier? When I was setting everything up
I
wound up with several small cuts on my knuckles trying to get hold of
it.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

WHAT!

Will Robinson, don't listen to that pile of dubious heritage cross of a PC
and a trash compactor. What could that mechanical monstrosity know.

I assure you young Robison that I, Professor Smith, have designed the
perfect BLADE GUARD, and have attached it the perfect designed radial arm
saw Known To Man.

So who are you going to believe, ME Professor Smith, or that useless barrel
of flashing lights. Just think of all the years we have known each other
my loyal friend Will. Go ahead and try the marriage of my Perfect Blade
Guard and my Radial Saw. What could go wrong....

{ah-h, those under the age of 45 are forgiven if they do not understanding
this sub-thread's cultural context}


"Jim Giblin" wrote in message
news:4EFme.15654$Ib.8311@trndny03...
Remove a blade guard? DANGER Will Robinson!

On Mon, 30 May 2005 14:43:12 GMT, "Jim Giblin"
wrote:

Remove a blade guard? DANGER Will Robinson!

Don't laugh. I ran my 12" RAS that way for about three years because the guard
would not sit correctly. Finally my neighbor (the welder) could not stand to
watch any more and made some adjustments on the mount so that it would work
again.

Watching a 12" blade spinning open and free was bad, but when the dado was on
and the chips were flying, it was a sight that would throw fear into the
dumbest of the dumb, yeah, even me.

I still have all (knock on wood) my body parts and a guard on the RAS. :-)

The irony is that, now that I am my new shop with a lot of new machines, the
poor old RAS doesn't get used like it used to.

"Bill" wrote in message
. ..
Ok, I just got a new Sears Radial saw, because my old one broke and I
couldn't find a part for it. But the new one has a frustrating design on
the blade guard. To remove the blade guard you have to take a screw out
at the bottom of the inner blade guard. And, since it is right at the
bottom of the guard, right up against the blade, it is almost impossible
for me to get a good hold on it to get it in and out. Does anybody have
any tips on ways to make that easier? When I was setting everything up I
wound up with several small cuts on my knuckles trying to get hold of it.

Thanks,

Bill Gill


____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

Hi Bill,

My Craftsman RAS is about 6 years old now, so the
design might be a little different. At first tho, I
thought the blade guard was a PITA to put on
an take off. After a while, I guess I got used to it.
What actually happened is I took a real close look
as to how the thing works.

On mine, there is a long (maybe 5 inches) treaded
bolt with a "thumbscrew-like" end that you can
grab and turn. This operates sort of a cam that opens
and closes around a shaft. It is tricky in that the cam
has to fit in a slot that is maybe 1/8 inch wide. If
you don't get the thing exactly in the slot, it can be
frustrating. Also, I have found that the guard slips
on if angled a bit toward the operator, and then raised
to a vertical position where you can tighten the bolt.

You would think that they could have designed a simpler
system, but, like I said, I got used to it.

No wonder the manual is so thick!

HTH

Lou

In article , Bill
wrote:

Ok, I just got a new Sears Radial saw, because my old
one broke and I couldn't find a part for it. But the
new one has a frustrating design on the blade guard. To
remove the blade guard you have to take a screw out at
the bottom of the inner blade guard. And, since it is
right at the bottom of the guard, right up against the
blade, it is almost impossible for me to get a good hold
on it to get it in and out. Does anybody have any tips
on ways to make that easier? When I was setting
everything up I wound up with several small cuts on my
knuckles trying to get hold of it.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

loutent wrote:
Hi Bill,

My Craftsman RAS is about 6 years old now, so the
design might be a little different. At first tho, I
thought the blade guard was a PITA to put on
an take off. After a while, I guess I got used to it.
What actually happened is I took a real close look
as to how the thing works.

On mine, there is a long (maybe 5 inches) treaded
bolt with a "thumbscrew-like" end that you can
grab and turn. This operates sort of a cam that opens
and closes around a shaft. It is tricky in that the cam
has to fit in a slot that is maybe 1/8 inch wide. If
you don't get the thing exactly in the slot, it can be
frustrating. Also, I have found that the guard slips
on if angled a bit toward the operator, and then raised
to a vertical position where you can tighten the bolt.

You would think that they could have designed a simpler
system, but, like I said, I got used to it.

No wonder the manual is so thick!

HTH

Lou



The lock on mine works that way too, but that isn't the
problem. The problem is the inner blade guard, where it
goes down under the motor shaft. There is a screw that
holds the 2 ends (front and rear) together, so it will
guide up properly as the blade cuts into the wood. That
screw is immediately adjacent to the blade, and I can't
get my fingers in between the guard and the blade to
insert and hold the screw. I expect I will get used to
it, you can get used to almost anything, but it sure is
a pain (literally when I snag my knuckle on the blade)
to get it in.

Bill Gill

Jim Giblin wrote:

Remove a blade guard? DANGER Will Robinson!

On a Radial Arm Saw, enerally speaking it is less dangerous to remove the
guard before changing the blade than it is to try to work past the guard.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Ok, I just got a new Sears Radial saw, because my old one broke and I
couldn't find a part for it. But the new one has a frustrating design on
the blade guard. To remove the blade guard you have to take a screw out
at the bottom of the inner blade guard. And, since it is right at the
bottom of the guard, right up against the blade, it is almost impossible
for me to get a good hold on it to get it in and out. Does anybody have
any tips on ways to make that easier? When I was setting everything up I
wound up with several small cuts on my knuckles trying to get hold of it.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)