Ever need to mark a piece of wood for identification purposes, but
with what?

No marking pens, sometimes not even a pencil.

Enter a piece of black board chalk.

Low cost, leaves a nice white mark, and can easily be removed when
finished.

Funny what you can learn if you keep your mouth shut, your eyes open,
and just watch a craftsman do his/her job.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Ever need to mark a piece of wood for identification purposes, but
with what?

No marking pens, sometimes not even a pencil.

Enter a piece of black board chalk.

Low cost, leaves a nice white mark, and can easily be removed when
finished.

Funny what you can learn if you keep your mouth shut, your eyes open,
and just watch a craftsman do his/her job.

Lew


chalk is great- sometimes.

if the wood is getting painted or is being left raw no problem.
however, I have had ghost marks of the chalk show up after stain and
especially after waterborne clearcoats. I no longer use chalk as a
marker on interior finish work.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Ever need to mark a piece of wood for identification purposes, but
with what?

If I'm marking logs or boards in a pile to mean "I'm buying this one"
then I use water-based paint dabbers from the Early Learning Centre.
Bright fluo colours, not anything that can;t be got rid of later. My
son is 11 now, so I've had these a few years since he was finished with
them!

For more permanent marking, I use a timber marking crayon. It's a
double-sized coloured crayon in a wooden holder - just like a colouring
crayon, only bigger and not easily broken. It's just the "right thing"
- works fine and doesn't wash off.


Enter a piece of black board chalk.

How else do you do rough layout on a big board for which order you're
going to cut the drawerfronts etc. from it? I couldn't work without
one!

OTOH, I find blackboard chalk to be crude and blunt. I use tailors'
chalk (sharp-edged triangles) instead.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Ever need to mark a piece of wood for identification purposes, but
with what?

If I'm marking logs or boards in a pile to mean "I'm buying this one"
then I use water-based paint dabbers from the Early Learning Centre.
Bright fluo colours, not anything that can;t be got rid of later. My
son is 11 now, so I've had these a few years since he was finished with
them!

For more permanent marking, I use a timber marking crayon. It's a
double-sized coloured crayon in a wooden holder - just like a colouring
crayon, only bigger and not easily broken. It's just the "right thing"
- works fine and doesn't wash off.


Enter a piece of black board chalk.

How else do you do rough layout on a big board for which order you're
going to cut the drawerfronts etc. from it? I couldn't work without
one!

OTOH, I find blackboard chalk to be crude and blunt. I use tailors'
chalk (sharp-edged triangles) instead.

In article .com,
says...

chalk is great- sometimes.

if the wood is getting painted or is being left raw no problem.
however, I have had ghost marks of the chalk show up after stain and
especially after waterborne clearcoats. I no longer use chalk as a
marker on interior finish work.


I use chalk mostly to indicate orientation of pieces (stock) and to mark out
bisquits, and I once had the problem of not being able to get rid of some blue
chalk in the finishing process, it had insinuated itself into the grain
somehow.

Compressed air and a dust gun have proved to be the best way of removing it,
just prior to pre-finish. No more probs.

-P.

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