Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.

Obviously, this has had an affect on my sawing technique.

When I was in junior high shop classes, I received very poor grades and
although I was saftey conscience I never thought I would be using those
skills again so my effort was poor. ( Being a teacher now I can only
sympathize with Mr. Newton)

So basically I knew nothing about the table saw and for my first thing
I crosscut 8 ft 2x4s. After putting them through with the miter guide
I could feel the wood binding and my testicles immediately called for
me to turn off the saw. After doing some research I learned a lot
about crosscut sleds and why you shouldn't cut long things the narrow
way.

So then I am cutting some poplar 1X8 and I am standing off to the left
side and on the side of the fence I hear the saw start to have some
trouble on the cut and all of a sudden I see the cut off piece shoot
across the garage and hit a metal sheet propped up against the side.
It was like a missle. I think it hit the sheet metal at about the
tables height!

So I do a little research and I find that my saw blade ws up too high.
I think that I was also pushing the wood toward the fence at the height
of the blade and behind the blade.

Since then I have lowered my blade and been aware of where I am putting
pressure on the wood in relation to the blade so I have not had any
more kickbacks.

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick? I feel like less of
a man!!

FYI I bought the saw off of craigslist and the guy told me 8 times that
it wasn't stolen. But then he also tried to sell me a 18v dewalt and a
router out of his trunk. He also wouldn't meet me in the orange borg
parking lot (He says they like him and everything, but there are some
legal issues.)

He claims he only used the saw twice, but one of the bolt holes
connecting it to the stand is broken.

Maybe my table saw wants to kill me for the bad karma of buying a saw
that was obviously stolen (in reterospect)

Sorry for the long post but it is definitely a kind of therapy. I wsa
surprised when so many people talk of how they never see kickback and I
have seen it at least three times. Hope this was at least entertaining.

wrote:

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with
the fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel
comfortable ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick? I
feel like less of a man!!

Stand at the right side or move the fence to the left side. Either
way, you won't have to reach over the blade.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:gIRSg.10644$KK.5422@trnddc08...
wrote:

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with
the fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel
comfortable ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick? I
feel like less of a man!!

Stand at the right side or move the fence to the left side. Either
way, you won't have to reach over the blade.


Being new to the tablesaw, I always wonder about this. I haev read that you
should stand to the left side of the table, but when ripping that means I am
reaching over the blade to push the stock through. Is this incorrect?

wrote:



When I was in junior high shop classes, I received very poor grades and
although I was saftey conscience I never thought I would be using those
^^^^^^^^^^
skills again so my effort was poor. ( Being a teacher now
Hopefully not of English! g
[This coming from one who just sent an email to a friend asking
whether to use very course[sic] sandpaper for a certain jobg]



However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
fence on the right.
Did you state this correctly? You mean at the outfeed side???

What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick?

_The Table Saw Book_ by Kelly Mehler
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Locutus wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:gIRSg.10644$KK.5422@trnddc08...
wrote:

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with
the fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel
comfortable ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick? I
feel like less of a man!!

Stand at the right side or move the fence to the left side. Either
way, you won't have to reach over the blade.


Being new to the tablesaw, I always wonder about this. I haev read
that you should stand to the left side of the table, but when
ripping that means I am reaching over the blade to push the stock
through. Is this incorrect?

You need to be where you can push the stock, and keep out of the way
of the saw blade and any kickback. If one pushes with the right hand,
the most comfortable place is usually to the left of the blade but
one's hand or arm should never be above the blade. If one pushes with
a fixture riding on the fence, it is easy enough to stand to the
right. Same is true if the stock is wide and you push with your hand.
If the stock is narrow and you are to the left and you can't push the
end through keeping your arm/hand from being above the blade use a
good push stick.

Main thing is to cut the wood and not get hurt.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"alexy" wrote in message
...
wrote:


_The Table Saw Book_ by Kelly Mehler


I purchased this book based on the recommendations I read here.

I am curious if you have actually read this book? The main thing I learned
from this book was the European saws are superior to saws sold here in the
US.

I can't really say I learned much more than that.

Locutus wrote:

Being new to the tablesaw, I always wonder about this. I haev read that you
should stand to the left side of the table, but when ripping that means I am
reaching over the blade to push the stock through. Is this incorrect?

No, that's correct. It's easier to push into the fence and past the blade.

If you stand on the right of the fence, then you need to pull the piece
into the fence while pushing it past the blade...which is more awkward.

Typically with kickback the piece rises up at the back, then the top
teeth of the saw dig in to the bottom of the workpiece and fling it. It
generally goes more or less . There is relatively little chance of your
arm being hit.

Chris

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.


Kick-back is operator error.
I've had many a board warp as I ripped it. In the worst cases, as I witness
the board warping or closing up after it leaves the blade, I realize I will
have to apply more downforce to insure it won't lift. I then, using more
downforce, insure it stays next to the fence, down on the table and shove it
through. I've even seen old-timers shove a 16'd nail behind the cut to
prevent the board from closing. (This action might scare the week of
constitution but it works)

If I need to rip more of the same stock, knowing it will warp/twist I take
it to the bandsaw and rip it close to size and touch it up in the tablesaw
or jointer.

Dave

In article , "Locutus" wrote:

"alexy" wrote in message
.. .
wrote:


_The Table Saw Book_ by Kelly Mehler


I purchased this book based on the recommendations I read here.

I am curious if you have actually read this book? The main thing I learned
from this book was the European saws are superior to saws sold here in the
US.

I can't really say I learned much more than that.

That causes me to wonder if *you* actually read it... g

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , "Teamcasa" wrote:

Kick-back is operator error.
[...]
I've even seen old-timers shove a 16'd nail behind the cut to
prevent the board from closing. (This action might scare the week of
constitution but it works)

A wooden wedge performs the same function, but is a whole lot safer.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.


Kick-back is operator error.
I've had many a board warp as I ripped it. In the worst cases, as I
witness the board warping or closing up after it leaves the blade, I
realize I will have to apply more downforce to insure it won't lift. I
then, using more downforce, insure it stays next to the fence, down on the
table and shove it through. I've even seen old-timers shove a 16'd nail
behind the cut to prevent the board from closing. (This action might scare
the week of constitution but it works)

If I need to rip more of the same stock, knowing it will warp/twist I take
it to the bandsaw and rip it close to size and touch it up in the tablesaw
or jointer.

Dave

Many moons ago when starting work in a saw mill we bought the timber in the
round mostly ash and 4ins thick, it took four men to lift, two to push
through the saw and two to pull, my job as a lad was to hammer steel wedges
in the cut as near to the riving knife as possible,if this wasnt done the
timber would close on the blade, and create a hot spot, the blade then
distorted and cause an almighty wobble, my next job was to dive for the off
switch.I dont think this happens with modern tipped blades or at least i
hope not.

Bill.1

On 28 Sep 2006 08:06:55 -0700, wrote:

Sorry for the long post but it is definitely a kind of therapy. I wsa
surprised when so many people talk of how they never see kickback and I
have seen it at least three times. Hope this was at least entertaining.

Well after all the good advice about avoiding kickback, your answer
might be a jockstrap and a cup. If that fear is overriding your
attention.

Yes it is a bit of a smart ass answer but hopefully a bit amusing.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.

Obviously, this has had an affect on my sawing technique.

When I was in junior high shop classes, I received very poor grades and
although I was saftey conscience I never thought I would be using those
skills again so my effort was poor. ( Being a teacher now I can only
sympathize with Mr. Newton)

So basically I knew nothing about the table saw and for my first thing
I crosscut 8 ft 2x4s. After putting them through with the miter guide
I could feel the wood binding and my testicles immediately called for
me to turn off the saw. After doing some research I learned a lot
about crosscut sleds and why you shouldn't cut long things the narrow
way.

So then I am cutting some poplar 1X8 and I am standing off to the left
side and on the side of the fence I hear the saw start to have some
trouble on the cut and all of a sudden I see the cut off piece shoot
across the garage and hit a metal sheet propped up against the side.
It was like a missle. I think it hit the sheet metal at about the
tables height!

So I do a little research and I find that my saw blade ws up too high.
I think that I was also pushing the wood toward the fence at the height
of the blade and behind the blade.

Since then I have lowered my blade and been aware of where I am putting
pressure on the wood in relation to the blade so I have not had any
more kickbacks.

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick? I feel like less of
a man!!

FYI I bought the saw off of craigslist and the guy told me 8 times that
it wasn't stolen. But then he also tried to sell me a 18v dewalt and a
router out of his trunk. He also wouldn't meet me in the orange borg
parking lot (He says they like him and everything, but there are some
legal issues.)

He claims he only used the saw twice, but one of the bolt holes
connecting it to the stand is broken.

Maybe my table saw wants to kill me for the bad karma of buying a saw
that was obviously stolen (in reterospect)

Sorry for the long post but it is definitely a kind of therapy. I wsa
surprised when so many people talk of how they never see kickback and I
have seen it at least three times. Hope this was at least entertaining.

Good to respect your saw! I can't believe I'm the first to advise you
to...BUY A CUP!

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Locutus"
wrote:

"alexy" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:


_The Table Saw Book_ by Kelly Mehler


I purchased this book based on the recommendations I read here.

I am curious if you have actually read this book? The main thing I
learned
from this book was the European saws are superior to saws sold here in the
US.

I can't really say I learned much more than that.

That causes me to wonder if *you* actually read it... g


I read it, cover to cover. I just didn't find it all that educational,
pretty much just reiterated everything I already knew. And I don't think I
know that much about tablesaws.

You didn't find the constant mention of how much better European saws are at
least a little bit distracting? If euro saws are great, fine, I live in the
US, it doesn't help me to know what I am missing out on. It seems this book
is marketed to a US/Canadian market, so I don't understand why so much real
estate was devoted to euro saws.

wrote:

: So basically I knew nothing about the table saw and for my first thing
: I crosscut 8 ft 2x4s. After putting them through with the miter guide
: I could feel the wood binding and my testicles immediately called for
: me to turn off the saw. After doing some research I learned a lot
: about crosscut sleds and why you shouldn't cut long things the narrow
: way.

What was binding? You weren't usuing the fence were you? THAT
can cause binding and kickback. But if you remove the fence, I
don't see how you'd get binding and kickback on a crosscut of somthing 3.5"
wide.


: So then I am cutting some poplar 1X8 and I am standing off to the left
: side and on the side of the fence I hear the saw start to have some
: trouble on the cut and all of a sudden I see the cut off piece shoot
: across the garage and hit a metal sheet propped up against the side.
: It was like a missle. I think it hit the sheet metal at about the
: tables height!

: So I do a little research and I find that my saw blade ws up too high.

What research was this? Forrest, which manufacturers one of the best
TS blade lines available, recommends running the blade at full height
to reduce kickback. Think about what direction the blade is pushing the
wood with the blade all the way up, vs. low down. Also, keeping the blade
all the way up places it closer to the splitter, which is a good thing.

The main advantage of keeping the blade low is you won't completely
cut your hand off if it runs into the blade. But since you should be using
a good guard, which keeps you from doing that, this isn't relevant.

You should also be using a splitter, which is the main prenetative device
for kickback. The wood can't twist into the blade if there's a good
splitter in use.

: However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
: fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
: ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick?

Get a good guard and splitter.
Use board buddies or something similar.


- Andy Barss

Having read your dissertation, two things come to mind. First, crosscutting
8-foot 2X4s seems a rather odd introduction to the table saw and although
you never specifically stated it, I assume you know that when you are
crosscutting you should NEVER use the fence. BTW, that story about the guy
who busted his own balls is almost certainly not apocryphal. The landscape
is littered with candidates for the Vienna Boys Choir who got that way due
to their own misuse of their power tools.

Second, you should invest 60-70 bucks in a Grrr-ripper.
http://www.microjig.com/ It won't be of much use for crosscutting 2-bys
but it can make you feel a hell of a lot safer when performing ripping
operations on the table saw.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com

wrote:

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.

It could happen.

So basically I knew nothing about the table saw and for my first thing
I crosscut 8 ft 2x4s. After putting them through with the miter guide
I could feel the wood binding and my testicles immediately called for
me to turn off the saw. After doing some research I learned a lot
about crosscut sleds and why you shouldn't cut long things the narrow
way.

I don't understand this. Crosscutting long stock should never pose a
safety hazard. Supporting the workpiece can be a challenge, but what's
the safety issue?

So then I am cutting some poplar 1X8 and I am standing off to the left
side and on the side of the fence I hear the saw start to have some
trouble on the cut and all of a sudden I see the cut off piece shoot
across the garage and hit a metal sheet propped up against the side.
It was like a missle. I think it hit the sheet metal at about the
tables height!

What in the lord's name are you doing, using the rip fence as a guide
when crosscutting?

If you're ripping and getting that kind of kickback, make sure the
blade and the fence are both parallel to the miter gage slts (and each
other). If necessary, toe the end of the miter fence out, away from the
blade, by 1/32". Use the guard, which presumably has antikickback
pawls. You should never, ever get that kind of kickback this way.

With long boards, you may need to jam a wedge into the kerf to keep it
from closing.

So I do a little research and I find that my saw blade ws up too high.

A high blade should never, ever cause that kind of kickback. In some
ways, a high blade is safer than a low one.

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
fence on the right.

You're right to never stand in the line of fire.

Maybe my table saw wants to kill me for the bad karma of buying a saw
that was obviously stolen (in reterospect)

Woodworking is spiritual. You can't do anything on a stolen saw.

....or you could get a Sawstop. A previous poster saved his vitals with
one.

Marc

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 19:31:53 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Good to respect your saw! I can't believe I'm the first to advise you
to...BUY A CUP!

I'd call it a tie

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

"Markem" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 19:31:53 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Good to respect your saw! I can't believe I'm the first to advise you
to...BUY A CUP!

I'd call it a tie

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

Even though I've seen lots of old pictures of woodworkers wearing ties, I
can't see how wearing one is going to protect you from a kickback. (The
pictures of the guys operating lathes are the worst ones!)

- Owen -

writes:

Sorry for the long post but it is definitely a kind of therapy. I wsa
surprised when so many people talk of how they never see kickback and I
have seen it at least three times. Hope this was at least entertaining.

Get youself a few featherboards. Put one (or more) on the top and
another on the side. That way you can use a long push stick, and
retain control.




--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

I would suggest professional help. Perhaps your employer has an
Employee Assistance Program?


--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - lwasserm(@)charm(.)net

One more time . . .

If you understand the physics it's easier to know
what to do and not to do. It's those nasty rear
teeth, rising up out of the table saw top, that
initiate "kickbacks". You want to keep the wood
behind the front cutting teeth away from
the top rear quarter "lurking" teeth.


http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html

Cross cutting an 8 foot 2x4 on a table saw is not a great
idea - a chop saw, miter saw, sliding miter saw or compound
sliding miter saw is made to do that job. Cross cutting
on a table saw with the end against the fence is a no-no.

charlie b

On 28 Sep 2006 08:06:55 -0700, wrote:

Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.

Obviously, this has had an affect on my sawing technique.

When I was in junior high shop classes, I received very poor grades and
although I was saftey conscience I never thought I would be using those
skills again so my effort was poor. ( Being a teacher now I can only
sympathize with Mr. Newton)

So basically I knew nothing about the table saw and for my first thing
I crosscut 8 ft 2x4s. After putting them through with the miter guide
I could feel the wood binding and my testicles immediately called for
me to turn off the saw. After doing some research I learned a lot
about crosscut sleds and why you shouldn't cut long things the narrow
way.

So then I am cutting some poplar 1X8 and I am standing off to the left
side and on the side of the fence I hear the saw start to have some
trouble on the cut and all of a sudden I see the cut off piece shoot
across the garage and hit a metal sheet propped up against the side.
It was like a missle. I think it hit the sheet metal at about the
tables height!

So I do a little research and I find that my saw blade ws up too high.
I think that I was also pushing the wood toward the fence at the height
of the blade and behind the blade.

Since then I have lowered my blade and been aware of where I am putting
pressure on the wood in relation to the blade so I have not had any
more kickbacks.

However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick? I feel like less of
a man!!

FYI I bought the saw off of craigslist and the guy told me 8 times that
it wasn't stolen. But then he also tried to sell me a 18v dewalt and a
router out of his trunk. He also wouldn't meet me in the orange borg
parking lot (He says they like him and everything, but there are some
legal issues.)

He claims he only used the saw twice, but one of the bolt holes
connecting it to the stand is broken.

Maybe my table saw wants to kill me for the bad karma of buying a saw
that was obviously stolen (in reterospect)

Sorry for the long post but it is definitely a kind of therapy. I wsa
surprised when so many people talk of how they never see kickback and I
have seen it at least three times. Hope this was at least entertaining.


The T/S does not *scare* me in the least. I have a world of respect
for the machine, but fear does not come into play.
Like driving a car or handling a firearm, fear is a very bad thing and
could lead to an accident.

Since all the SawStop debates I have paid more attention to what I
actually do on the T/S. Before, I never really studied my actions or
habits. I find that I comply to many safety guidelines unconsciously
-w/o thinking about it. I also find that my hands are rarely in a
position to be injured. Again, in fairness, I don't want to state that
it would be impossible, but very unlikely.
The bottom line is, IMO, you need to be comfortable on the equipment.

In article , wrote:

Cross cutting an 8 foot 2x4 on a table saw is not a great
idea - a chop saw, miter saw, sliding miter saw or compound
sliding miter saw is made to do that job.

Or a radial arm saw... g

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Tom Gardner wrote:

Good to respect your saw! I can't believe I'm the first to advise you
to...BUY A CUP!



Why stop there?

I settle for nothing less than full, NHL regulation goalie gear! Who
needs a GRRRRRipper when you've got a blocker?

I'm not the only one, you'll see goalie gear hanging in the background
of Peter Gedry's finishing articles, as well.

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 20:08:05 -0400, "Owen Lawrence"
wrote:


"Markem" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 19:31:53 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Good to respect your saw! I can't believe I'm the first to advise you
to...BUY A CUP!

I'd call it a tie

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

Even though I've seen lots of old pictures of woodworkers wearing ties, I
can't see how wearing one is going to protect you from a kickback. (The
pictures of the guys operating lathes are the worst ones!)

- Owen -




:P

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

On 28 Sep 2006 08:06:55 -0700, wrote:

Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

Snip

If you contact Delta, you can either download the manual if it is
availible, or they will mail you one. In either case, the manual
contains all the safety directions you need to operate the saw
properly.

And for what it's worth, I've experienced kickback two or three times-
always because I wasn't following the rules, but none of those
resulted in any real injury. While it can be very dangerous, it is
more often than not just a bit of excitement. Same rule for saws as
for horses- if one kicks, get right back on it.

Hopefully not of English! g
[This coming from one who just sent an email to a friend asking
whether to use very course[sic] sandpaper for a certain jobg

No, I am actually a science teacher, but I am from the spell check
generation. If a little red line doesn't show up under my words I
assume they are OK. But I do admit. I may do a preview next time
instead of post.



However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
fence on the right.
Did you state this correctly? You mean at the outfeed side???

No, I mean the left side of the feeder side. Standing so far away from
the fence as to not be within missle range.


What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick?

_The Table Saw Book_ by Kelly Mehler


Thank you, will do

They also have table saw movies for rent on netflix!

What was binding? You weren't usuing the fence were you? THAT
can cause binding and kickback. But if you remove the fence, I
don't see how you'd get binding and kickback on a crosscut of somthing 3.5"
wide.


No I wasn't using the fence,but in a more brilliant move, I didn't know
which side kicked back, so I had a hand on each side of the blade with
my crotch well to the side.

I think that happened is that it got almost to the end of the cut and
then it binded and kind of jumped back. Not really kickback but in my
mind it has bye bye teste written all over it.

So the point is that I probably over reacted but it was not the best
intro. I am going to make a crosscut sled this weekend.

wrote in message ups.com...
Hey

I am new to woodworking and I have found my self avaoiding using my
table saw. I have a delta 10 inch saw and it is vibration free.
However, I think that my early experiences have scarred me. ( luckily
only mentally).

When I first got the saw, one of my friends related a story to me about
kickback that is burned into my mind. This friend had a professor
(this story sounds fake already) who saw a kid ripping a long board
that was warped. The board binded in the saw, kick back and hit him in
the sac and burst one of his testicles.

Knock on stock, but I've been ripping and crosscutting on a 10 inch
Sears for 20 years, and I've never experienced kickback. Not once.
With my Stihl chainsaw, yes (but that's another story, not involving
reproductive gear).

B A R R Y wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:

Good to respect your saw! I can't believe I'm the first to advise you
to...BUY A CUP!



Why stop there?

I settle for nothing less than full, NHL regulation goalie gear! Who
needs a GRRRRRipper when you've got a blocker?

I'm not the only one, you'll see goalie gear hanging in the background
of Peter Gedry's finishing articles, as well.

I would recommend a codpiece of ballistic polymer lined with
Kevlar-reinforced steel mesh. You could paint really cool flames or
lightning bolts on it.

I didn't know
which side kicked back, so I had a hand on each side of the blade

That's most likely what caused the kickback.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com

B A R R Y wrote in news:Lh7Tg.6440$GR.1814
@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net:


Why stop there?

I settle for nothing less than full, NHL regulation goalie gear! Who
needs a GRRRRRipper when you've got a blocker?

I'm not the only one, you'll see goalie gear hanging in the background
of Peter Gedry's finishing articles, as well.

2x4 in the chest, slap shot from 20 feet, what's the difference? (You
almost always see the slap shot coming.)

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

In article ews.net, Puckdropper wrote:
B A R R Y wrote in news:Lh7Tg.6440$GR.1814
:


Why stop there?

I settle for nothing less than full, NHL regulation goalie gear! Who
needs a GRRRRRipper when you've got a blocker?

I'm not the only one, you'll see goalie gear hanging in the background
of Peter Gedry's finishing articles, as well.

2x4 in the chest, slap shot from 20 feet, what's the difference? (You
almost always see the slap shot coming.)

Yep. Moving about the same speed, but the 2x4 is coming from a whole lot
closer. Takes 10 to 15 milliseconds to get there.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

old-timers shove a 16'd nail behind the cut to
prevent the board from closing. (This action might scare the week of
constitution but it works)

A wooden wedge performs the same function, but is a whole lot safer.

I have a gizmo for that. small scrap of wood, set the saw height to
kerf halfway through, then make a rip cut that produces a thin piece
that just fits the kerf. glue them together thus, round over the edges
and taper the "blade" a bit for easy inserting.

it lives in the open left end of the beisemeyer tube where I can reach
it but it won't get lost.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article ews.net, Puckdropper wrote:
B A R R Y wrote in news:Lh7Tg.6440$GR.1814
:


Why stop there?

I settle for nothing less than full, NHL regulation goalie gear! Who
needs a GRRRRRipper when you've got a blocker?

I'm not the only one, you'll see goalie gear hanging in the background
of Peter Gedry's finishing articles, as well.

2x4 in the chest, slap shot from 20 feet, what's the difference? (You
almost always see the slap shot coming.)

Yep. Moving about the same speed, but the 2x4 is coming from a whole lot
closer. Takes 10 to 15 milliseconds to get there.

Also, when the 2x4 hits you "in the chest," it hits you in the balls
instead.

Lee Gordon wrote:
I didn't know
which side kicked back, so I had a hand on each side of the blade

That's most likely what caused the kickback.

I'd like my $5 pool entry to reflect Lee's answer as the winner.

10-1, the hand on the side where the fence wasn't pushed the kerf
closed, launching the board.

Doug Miller wrote:

Yep. Moving about the same speed, but the 2x4 is coming from a whole lot
closer. Takes 10 to 15 milliseconds to get there.


All that gear lets you just shake it off. G

FWIW, I was a defenseman when I played, not a goalie. More than once, I
turned around from tying up an opposing player (puckdropper [might] call
it "interference", but a man's gotta' do to do what he's gotta' do...
G), and had about 10-15 milliseconds to get out of the way. I can't
get anywhere in that amount of time. So... I got hit so hard one
night, it stuck in my mind enough where years later I'd duck lightweight
plastic balls used in indoor roller hockey. G

Then again, I've seen some on-ice officials take it bad enough that they
probably would have traded it for a kickback! =8^0

In article ,
says...
Lee Gordon wrote:
I didn't know
which side kicked back, so I had a hand on each side of the blade

That's most likely what caused the kickback.

I'd like my $5 pool entry to reflect Lee's answer as the winner.

10-1, the hand on the side where the fence wasn't pushed the kerf
closed, launching the board.

Hint!

Use the miter gauge for narrow stock, NOT the fence!

NEVER constrain both sides of a piece being cut!

Don't be afraid enough not to use the saw, but NEVER lose respect for it
and the bad things it can do IN A HURRY!

RTFM, and maybe another or two books about table saws.

Be safe!
Tex