I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
shiny.

How long does it stay this good?

Depends on how many cheap 2 by 4's ya plan on cutting........;-)

I've had mine for 3 years with "fair" amount of use and no signs of needing
sharpening yet. It will still rip 12/4 hard maple and not leave any burn
marks. Keep it clean and wax it occasionally.

Bob S.


"Toller" wrote in message
...
I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
shiny.

How long does it stay this good?

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
shiny.

How long does it stay this good?


Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps
delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one when
the other is being sharpened.

PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that
time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it right.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

I learned the hard way that my local service with computer controlled
sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it right.

I'm betting Circle Saw?
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

"Leon" wrote in message

Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps
delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one when
the other is being sharpened.

PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that
time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it
right.

I'm on the verge of buying a third one. Suddenly, I've got two that need to
be sharpened and I don't want to be without.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/06

Are they *that* good? Is the Thin-kerf version equally good? I'm
thinking of getting one for my saw - its a 1 3/4 hp hybrid delta and I
was thinking that a WWII thin-kerf blade might be better than the
regular kerf freud I've been using (when it comes to thick or very hard
wood).


BobS wrote:
Depends on how many cheap 2 by 4's ya plan on cutting........;-)

I've had mine for 3 years with "fair" amount of use and no signs of needing
sharpening yet. It will still rip 12/4 hard maple and not leave any burn
marks. Keep it clean and wax it occasionally.

Bob S.


"Toller" wrote in message
...
I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
shiny.

How long does it stay this good?

"Frank" wrote in message
oups.com...
Are they *that* good? Is the Thin-kerf version equally good? I'm
thinking of getting one for my saw - its a 1 3/4 hp hybrid delta and I
was thinking that a WWII thin-kerf blade might be better than the
regular kerf freud I've been using (when it comes to thick or very hard
wood).


Get the regular kerf. A good regular kerf blade is better than a medium
quality thin kerf.

"New Wave Dave" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

I learned the hard way that my local service with computer controlled
sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it right.

I'm betting Circle Saw?


MVP Sharpeners on the west belt.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps
delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one
when
the other is being sharpened.

PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that
time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it
right.

I'm on the verge of buying a third one. Suddenly, I've got two that need
to
be sharpened and I don't want to be without.


LOL, I am almost in that same boat. I have been setting on one that has
needed to be sharpened for a year now.

"Frank" wrote in message
oups.com...
Are they *that* good? Is the Thin-kerf version equally good? I'm
thinking of getting one for my saw - its a 1 3/4 hp hybrid delta and I
was thinking that a WWII thin-kerf blade might be better than the
regular kerf freud I've been using (when it comes to thick or very hard
wood).

Yes, and so is my Ridge Carbide blade. You don't need the thin kerf with
that power. My Delta 1.5 hp goes through thick oak rather easily.

It is not always easy to justify the added expense, but it sure does pay.
When you buy a good bottle of liquor, it looks the same, side by side, as
the cheap stuff, but when you take a sip, you can certainly tell.

"BobS" wrote in message
...
Depends on how many cheap 2 by 4's ya plan on cutting........;-)

I've had mine for 3 years with "fair" amount of use and no signs of
needing sharpening yet. It will still rip 12/4 hard maple and not leave
any burn marks. Keep it clean and wax it occasionally.


Wax it? To prevent rust maybe?

The first time I pushed some purpleheart through the WWII I knew it was
worth the money I paid for it.

On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 03:07:46 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps
delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one
when
the other is being sharpened.

PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that
time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it
right.

I'm on the verge of buying a third one. Suddenly, I've got two that need
to
be sharpened and I don't want to be without.


LOL, I am almost in that same boat. I have been setting on one that has
needed to be sharpened for a year now.

Sounds like my jointer and planer blades. I've got a set of each that
I've needed to get sharpened sitting on the "to the house" cabinet surface
for about that long. I've got to get them sharpened soon, the ones in the
jointer and planer now are getting close to needing sharpening. Last
goober that sharpened them really made a mess of the job; I need a better
sharpening house in Tucson than Precision Tool.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

I've had reasonably good service from Circle Saw of Tucson on my
jointer and planer knives, but I haven't taken my Forrest there, yet.
Tom
Mark & Juanita wrote:
On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 03:07:46 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps
delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one
when
the other is being sharpened.

PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that
time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it
right.

I'm on the verge of buying a third one. Suddenly, I've got two that need
to
be sharpened and I don't want to be without.


LOL, I am almost in that same boat. I have been setting on one that has
needed to be sharpened for a year now.

Sounds like my jointer and planer blades. I've got a set of each that
I've needed to get sharpened sitting on the "to the house" cabinet surface
for about that long. I've got to get them sharpened soon, the ones in the
jointer and planer now are getting close to needing sharpening. Last
goober that sharpened them really made a mess of the job; I need a better
sharpening house in Tucson than Precision Tool.

Toller wrote:

How long does it stay this good?


In my experience, quite a while. Wait until you see a Chopmaster and
Dado King!

To be fair, I've seen other blades that are just as good, such as Ridge
Carbide, but they cost the same or more as a comparable Forrest.

On Tue, 05 Sep 2006 23:00:52 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
shiny.

How long does it stay this good?



never used one but on that same subject, does anyone use the
Chopmaster for cross cutting. I bought one at IWF (haven't recieved
it yet, supposed to ship today) based on the show demo.

While I've always been satisfied with my Leitz combo for the table saw
(have three), never had a decent negative hook cross cut blade.

Hope it is worth the money.

Frank

"Frank" wrote in message
oups.com...
Are they *that* good? Is the Thin-kerf version equally good? I'm
thinking of getting one for my saw - its a 1 3/4 hp hybrid delta and I
was thinking that a WWII thin-kerf blade might be better than the
regular kerf freud I've been using (when it comes to thick or very hard
wood).


Frank,

If you plan on cutting a lot of hardwood stock that exceeds 8/4, with that 1
3/4hp motor then you would probably be best served with the thin kerf blade
and use a 4" stabilizer with it. Otherwise - go with the 1/8" kerf blade.

When I had a Delta CS (1 1/2hp), I had the thin-kerf WWII and it worked
great but cutting thick hard maple was a challenge. I upgraded to a cabinet
saw with a 3hp motor and sold the thin-kerf blade and went with the 1/8"
kerf blade. I have ripped 7' lengths of 12/4 hard maple when I was making
some French doors for my niece's renovation project. No burn marks. Try
that with a lesser quality blade. Yes, you do need well tuned tablesaw but
it's the blade that makes all the difference.


Bob S.

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 05 Sep 2006 23:00:52 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
shiny.

How long does it stay this good?



never used one but on that same subject, does anyone use the
Chopmaster for cross cutting. I bought one at IWF (haven't recieved
it yet, supposed to ship today) based on the show demo.

Is the chopmaster a negative angle? I really need a better blade for my
RAS.
Try it out and let us know how it is.

While I've always been satisfied with my Leitz combo for the table saw
(have three), never had a decent negative hook cross cut blade.

Hope it is worth the money.

Frank

In article , B A R R Y wrote:
Toller wrote:

How long does it stay this good?


In my experience, quite a while. Wait until you see a Chopmaster and
Dado King!

To be fair, I've seen other blades that are just as good, such as Ridge
Carbide, but they cost the same or more as a comparable Forrest.

You've got to be kidding. The Ridge Carbide Northwoods dado set is about 60%
of the price of the Forrest Dado King -- and cuts a flatter bottom.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"New Wave Dave" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it
right.

I'm betting Circle Saw?


MVP Sharpeners on the west belt.

So that's where they moved! I've been looking for MVP since they
left their South Post Oak location; had a phone number on a scrap of
paper floating around in my truck console for two or three years but it
was a no-no when I finally got around to trying it.
That's really good news since I'm right at Beltway 8 and 290.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 13:00:54 GMT, "Toller" wrote:


Is the chopmaster a negative angle? I really need a better blade for my
RAS.

Yes, 5 degrees negative hook.


Try it out and let us know how it is.

Will do.

Frank

B A R R Y wrote:
Toller wrote:

How long does it stay this good?


In my experience, quite a while. Wait until you see a Chopmaster and
Dado King!

To be fair, I've seen other blades that are just as good, such as Ridge
Carbide, but they cost the same or more as a comparable Forrest.

I've generally seen the Ridge priced cheaper -- maybe I'm looking in
the wrong places

Dad's got the Ridge equivalent of a WWII on his TS. I have a WWII on
mine. I've never done a head to head comparison of the blades one a
single saw but my general impression is the that WWII leaves a glassier
surface though edges of the Ridge are also glue-ready. The
difference could be saw tuning, however.

hex
-30-

Doug Miller wrote:

You've got to be kidding. The Ridge Carbide Northwoods dado set is about 60%
of the price of the Forrest Dado King -- and cuts a flatter bottom.


I got the Dado King for $149. G

I'm plenty happy with the bottom of my particular set. The only
non-flat part is a tiny "bat wing" in each corner.

hex wrote:

I've generally seen the Ridge priced cheaper -- maybe I'm looking in
the wrong places

Dado set, yes. I got a freaky deal on my DK, but if you shop, you can
get 10" Forrest blades for around the same price as Ridge.

WWII's can be had for $80-something bucks.

"New Wave Dave" wrote in message
...
MVP Sharpeners on the west belt.

So that's where they moved! I've been looking for MVP since they left
their South Post Oak location; had a phone number on a scrap of paper
floating around in my truck console for two or three years but it was a
no-no when I finally got around to trying it.
That's really good news since I'm right at Beltway 8 and 290.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston



They moved there about 7-10 years ago. They are/were almost directly
across the West beltway from Harwood Products. IIRC they have moved again
to

MVP Sharpeners
17535 Huffmeister Rd
Cypress, TX
(281) 373-0646

Keep in mind that when they moved they were basically out of the tool
business except for blades and sharpening.

"Toller" wrote in message
...


Is the chopmaster a negative angle? I really need a better blade for my
RAS.


You probably want a WW "I" for a RAS.

On Tue, 05 Sep 2006 23:00:52 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome;

I thought they were VFW members.... shows how little I know.. *g*
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

In article , B A R R Y wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

You've got to be kidding. The Ridge Carbide Northwoods dado set is about 60%
of the price of the Forrest Dado King -- and cuts a flatter bottom.


I got the Dado King for $149. G

New??? How the heck did you manage that?

I'm plenty happy with the bottom of my particular set. The only
non-flat part is a tiny "bat wing" in each corner.

Same way with the Ridge set, except the bat wing is even smaller, almost
non-existent.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , B A R R Y wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
You've got to be kidding. The Ridge Carbide Northwoods dado set is about 60%
of the price of the Forrest Dado King -- and cuts a flatter bottom.

I got the Dado King for $149. G

New??? How the heck did you manage that?

One of Amazon's 15 second sales.

In article , B A R R Y wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , B A R R Y
wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
You've got to be kidding. The Ridge Carbide Northwoods dado set is about
60%
of the price of the Forrest Dado King -- and cuts a flatter bottom.

I got the Dado King for $149. G

New??? How the heck did you manage that?

One of Amazon's 15 second sales.

?? Not familiar with that.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

Keep in mind that when they moved they were basically out of the tool
business except for blades and sharpening.

Thank yew, kind sir. Sharpening is all I ever used them for anyway.
I recently used Woodcraft to do two sets of joiner knives but, of
course I was in the day after pickup which meant a week went by before
next pickup and then another week turn-around. Sigh.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

Doug Miller wrote:

?? Not familiar with that.


In the past, Amazon has had some items get really cheap, for a really
short time.

I think two of us on the group picked up $149 Dado Kings.

yes...


"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"BobS" wrote in message
...
Depends on how many cheap 2 by 4's ya plan on cutting........;-)

I've had mine for 3 years with "fair" amount of use and no signs of
needing sharpening yet. It will still rip 12/4 hard maple and not leave
any burn marks. Keep it clean and wax it occasionally.


Wax it? To prevent rust maybe?

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Toller" wrote in message
...


Is the chopmaster a negative angle? I really need a better blade for my
RAS.


You probably want a WW "I" for a RAS.
I see that it says WWI for RAS, but it has a positive hook doesn't it?
They could do a little better on their website.

"BobS" wrote in message
...
yes...


HUH, LOL, I'll give that a try. And I am glad to hear that the wax was not
used to cut down on friction. ;~)

"New Wave Dave" wrote in message
...

Thank yew, kind sir. Sharpening is all I ever used them for anyway.
I recently used Woodcraft to do two sets of joiner knives but, of
course I was in the day after pickup which meant a week went by before
next pickup and then another week turn-around. Sigh.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

You might want to consider Forrest for the resharpening service. My history
with MVP has been good. I started buying from them in 1988. The father was
still running the company and the son went around selling sharpening
services to the locals. I bought my first good blade from them and used
them as my sharpening service up until about 2004. I let them give it a try
on my Forrest WWII with the guarantee that it would be as good as new. It
was not and was far from it. It did cut faster but the cut was rough. 3
weeks later I returned it to Forrest and got it back literally as good as
new. MVP does not straighten blades. I don't doubt that MVP can still do
a good sharpening job but as time goes by blades do not remain true gor what
ever reason. Forrest can reflatten the blade and that had as much to do
with a good smooth cut as a sharp blade. If I did not resharpen my jointer
and planer knives myself I would let MVP do the work.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Toller" wrote in message
...


Is the chopmaster a negative angle? I really need a better blade for my
RAS.


You probably want a WW "I" for a RAS.
I see that it says WWI for RAS, but it has a positive hook doesn't it?
They could do a little better on their website.


Give them a call they are smart people. They will also build you a blade to
your specifications if they do not stock what you want.