Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?


6" is good, 8" is better. Depends on your $$$ situation and patience to
wait.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:%93Eg.19634$yE1.12043@trndny02...

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?


6" is good, 8" is better. Depends on your $$$ situation and patience to
wait.

In addition, it is awkward to joint a 8" board on a 6" jointer. I certainly
don't mean that it can't be done.
Jim

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in
. 1:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out
for the 8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could
save me some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting
router bit to straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor
intensive.


Your mileage may vary. Mine did.

I used hand planes to do my jointing. Lots of planes. And figured that
I was not really Roy, and didn't get all of the boards as true and flat
as they might be. So when a sweet, freshly rebuilt Delta-Rockwell 8"
machine, nearly as old as I am, was offered by a friend from the local
club, I wrote him a reasonably sized check. Built a rolling cart, made
space in the shop, and built some cabinets for the bathroom. Lots of
drawers, doors, face frames and shelves out of maple.

But it didn't go any faster, and I was still doing most of the touchup
with handplanes anyway. Last week, a friend mentioned he was looking
around for a jointer, so mine may have a new home soon. We'll see.

There are more cabinets to build - a kitchen or three, but I think I can
get these done just as well, just as quickly, with the cabinet full of
handplanes.

Always knew I had a streak of old fart in me...

Just don't buy a 6", thinking that you'll buy an 8" later. THAT math
always seems to be expensive. (Like $2500 worth of handplanes is
cheap...)

Patriarch

Patriarch wrote in
. 97.136:



Last week, a friend mentioned he was looking
around for a jointer, so mine may have a new home soon. We'll see.


If your friend changes his mind, let me know. Where are you located?

"Jim" writes:
In addition, it is awkward to joint a 8" board on a 6" jointer.

Worse, it's awkward to joint a 6 1/8 " board on a 6" jointer. That's
why I upgraded.

Patriarch wrote:
....
I used hand planes to do my jointing. ... So ... 8" machine... was offered ...
... built some cabinets for the bathroom. Lots of
drawers, doors, face frames and shelves out of maple.

But it didn't go any faster, and I was still doing most of the touchup
with handplanes anyway. Last week, a friend mentioned he was looking
around for a jointer, so mine may have a new home soon. We'll see.

There are more cabinets to build - a kitchen or three, but I think I can
get these done just as well, just as quickly, with the cabinet full of
handplanes.

If using mostly sheet goods and start with surfaced hardwood, I can see
it, but can't if use much roughsawn lumber. I really can't imagine the
time to have to hand-prepare every face surface prior to even the first
pass through the planer to get two parallel surfaces...particularly in
August in an open shop in W KS!

Always knew I had a streak of old fart in me...

I ken that...

Just don't buy a 6", thinking that you'll buy an 8" later. ...

That I do agree with wholeheartedly as well...

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.




I have the DJ-20 and it's great. Heavy and solid, and doesn't ever
seem to get out of alignment. Nice long bed too. This sucker is
heavy--two strong men to lift it onto the base. If you use a table
saw much you really need a jointer.

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit
to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.


For me it was a balance between space, need and money.
I decided the 37-195 would fit in the space and I so rarely need to face
larger pieces.
When the rare occasion comes up, I use a sled and run it through the planer.

The 37-195 is a good machine. It required some effort to get it tuned
perfectly as well as re-tapping and helicoiling on some of the threads do to
my over exertion but after the fussing around it works very well.

Dave




Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit
to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.


Cry once... I started with a 6" and ended up with a DJ-20. I recently ran
about 800 linear feet of 8-12 foot stock over it to get a good straight edge
before ripping to width. The boards came out straight with one pass--the
long bed works well. It's also real nice to handle stock 8 inches wide on it
with one pass. On that note, I wouldn't mind having a 12" or maybe a 16"
jointer. ;~)

John

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in
. 1:

Patriarch wrote in
. 97.136:



Last week, a friend mentioned he was looking
around for a jointer, so mine may have a new home soon. We'll see.


If your friend changes his mind, let me know. Where are you located?


18 miles east of San Francisco, CA. I'm not going to ship it anywhere. ;-)

It took two of us to disassemble it and get it into my pickup truck in
pieces when I bought it.

Patriarch

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?
Why not really hold out for one that David Marks owns?
No matter what you buy, there is another model that is just a little larger
for only more money.
The answer to such questions as this depend on the size of your shop and the
size of you budget. Only you know these two critical elements.
Jim

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit
to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold
out for
the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could
save
me
some time.

When it comes to a jointer, consider the following:

1) The one you are looking at absolutely won't fit in your available
space, no way will it fit.

2) You absolutely can't afford the one you are looking at, no way can
you afford it.

That is the jointer for you.

Lew

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.

Hi,

Despite all the comments you had so far about getting an 8" jointer
instead of the 6", there are a few facts worth noting before making
your final decision. If you're not on a budget and don't care about
spending money, please disregard the following notes and get an 8"...

1. For equivalent quality, the 8" cost twice as much as a 6".

2. You will rarely have to joint boards wider than 6". Of course, you
can buy them that wide but for any decent glue up that won't warp, you
would be better to split your board in 2 strips of 3" and joint/plane
them individually. So this is never an issue.

3. The size of the jointer doesn't affect the quality or the precision
like a tablesaw can (cabinet vs. contractor model). You can expect the
same results if you take care of your blades, if your jointer is
tune-up properly and if you use proper techniques.

4. A 6" will run on a regular 120V circuit as opposed to the 8" which
will require most likely a 220V outlet.

5. Footprint wise, the 6" is much smaller than the 8" so if you're in
a small workshop, the 8" might be eat quite a bit of space and since
jointing is usually done at the beginning of a project, it will be in
your way the rest of the time.

6. The beds on a 8" jointer are certainly longer than those on a 6"
but will this be useful to you? Longer beds just means the ability to
joint longer stock. Do you make moldings? If you make normal
furniture, you will hardly joint boards over 6' long which can be
handled very easily by a 6" jointer.

7. Assembling a 6" jointer can be done alone if you work smartly.
Assembling an 8" alone is not impossible but takes a lot more thinking
and "helping" devices...

As a last note, of course you may get frustrated a few times when you
want to joint at 6 1/8" wide board on a 6" jointer. You may even bite
your lips a few times and say "Hmmmmm, I should have bought a 8"
jointer instead"... But when it happens, just straight up one edge so
it can be ripped safely on the tablesaw under 6", then joint.

As you have probably guessed it already, I'm talking here by
experience... I have a 6" jointer and I didn't have the extra 1000$ a
8" jointer would have cost me. I've gone through the same thinking
you're doing now so I made my decision and don't regret it in the same
way I don't regret not having a timesaver, an oscillating spindle
sander, a shaper.

I figured out a 1000$ extra is too expensive for the once in a blue
moon frustration I may encounter with my 6" jointer.

Hope this helps,


Greg D.

John Grossbohlin wrote:
Cry once... I started with a 6" and ended up with a DJ-20. I recently ran
about 800 linear feet of 8-12 foot stock over it to get a good straight edge
before ripping to width. The boards came out straight with one pass--the
long bed works well. It's also real nice to handle stock 8 inches wide on it
with one pass. On that note, I wouldn't mind having a 12" or maybe a 16"
jointer. ;~)


Ain't that the truth? I started with a 4" tabletop POS, went to a 6" and
finally ended up with the 8" aircraft carrier that now sits proudly in my
garage... uh, I mean shop. Looking back, I should have just bitten the bullet
and bought the 8" jointer to start with. Every time I use it, I smile. What a
pleasure...


--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

R. Pierce Butler wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.



I have the Grizzly 8". Great tool. My ancient Craftsman 6" tried to
kill me so I switched.
mahalo,
jo4hn

The majority of what I use is rough-cut. I don't have a jointer. No need for
one. It's the rare board that takes any more than one minute to prep for the
planer. Usually, not that long.

"dpb" wrote in message
ups.com...
If using mostly sheet goods and start with surfaced hardwood, I can see
it, but can't if use much roughsawn lumber. I really can't imagine the
time to have to hand-prepare every face surface prior to even the first
pass through the planer to get two parallel surfaces...particularly in
August in an open shop in W KS!

Greg D. wrote in
:

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the 8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router
bit to straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.

Hi,

Despite all the comments you had so far about getting an 8" jointer
instead of the 6", there are a few facts worth noting before making
your final decision. If you're not on a budget and don't care about
spending money, please disregard the following notes and get an 8"...

1. For equivalent quality, the 8" cost twice as much as a 6".

2. You will rarely have to joint boards wider than 6". Of course, you
can buy them that wide but for any decent glue up that won't warp, you
would be better to split your board in 2 strips of 3" and joint/plane
them individually. So this is never an issue.

3. The size of the jointer doesn't affect the quality or the precision
like a tablesaw can (cabinet vs. contractor model). You can expect the
same results if you take care of your blades, if your jointer is
tune-up properly and if you use proper techniques.

4. A 6" will run on a regular 120V circuit as opposed to the 8" which
will require most likely a 220V outlet.

5. Footprint wise, the 6" is much smaller than the 8" so if you're in
a small workshop, the 8" might be eat quite a bit of space and since
jointing is usually done at the beginning of a project, it will be in
your way the rest of the time.

6. The beds on a 8" jointer are certainly longer than those on a 6"
but will this be useful to you? Longer beds just means the ability to
joint longer stock. Do you make moldings? If you make normal
furniture, you will hardly joint boards over 6' long which can be
handled very easily by a 6" jointer.

7. Assembling a 6" jointer can be done alone if you work smartly.
Assembling an 8" alone is not impossible but takes a lot more thinking
and "helping" devices...

As a last note, of course you may get frustrated a few times when you
want to joint at 6 1/8" wide board on a 6" jointer. You may even bite
your lips a few times and say "Hmmmmm, I should have bought a 8"
jointer instead"... But when it happens, just straight up one edge so
it can be ripped safely on the tablesaw under 6", then joint.

As you have probably guessed it already, I'm talking here by
experience... I have a 6" jointer and I didn't have the extra 1000$ a
8" jointer would have cost me. I've gone through the same thinking
you're doing now so I made my decision and don't regret it in the same
way I don't regret not having a timesaver, an oscillating spindle
sander, a shaper.

I figured out a 1000$ extra is too expensive for the once in a blue
moon frustration I may encounter with my 6" jointer.

Hope this helps,


Greg D.

Thanks Greg. You gave me some helpful points and food for thought. Maybe
I should just keep going with my handheld router, flush trim bit,
straghtedge and call it a day. I am just now starting to put my shop into
some kind of order after a hiatus of about 15 years. Tomorrow I pick up a
compressor, PC Plate joiner, and a monster Milwaukee router. I have some
kitchen cabinets to make as well as matching cabinets for the 2 and 1/2
bathrooms.

I also need a dust collector so that will be next.

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in
. 1:

snippage

I figured out a 1000$ extra is too expensive for the once in a blue
moon frustration I may encounter with my 6" jointer.

Hope this helps,


Greg D.

Thanks Greg. You gave me some helpful points and food for thought.
Maybe I should just keep going with my handheld router, flush trim
bit, straghtedge and call it a day. I am just now starting to put my
shop into some kind of order after a hiatus of about 15 years.
Tomorrow I pick up a compressor, PC Plate joiner, and a monster
Milwaukee router. I have some kitchen cabinets to make as well as
matching cabinets for the 2 and 1/2 bathrooms.

I also need a dust collector so that will be next.


Well, I bought my 8" Delta Rockwell, freshly rebuilt and tuned for speed,
for $799. So this about an 'extra $1000' doesn't ALWAYS hold true.

Doesn't mean that you HAVE to buy an 8" jointer, however.

Patriarch

In article ,
says...
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.


Hmmm, a lot of the answers here leave me bemused. To clarify: I have a little
Electra Beckum over and under machine. So the knives are 260mm wide (just over
10 inches). And, you know, I never, ever find myself using the jointer for
anything wider than 2 inches, max. Usually 3/4' to 1 1/2". Anything wider that
needs flattening goes through the thicknesser on alternate runs until I have a
flat board with parallel surfaces.

The one thing I would wish for in a jointer is a long infeed and a long outfeed
table. Solid cast, preferably. The entire table on my Electra is around 3' and
I struggle with pieces over 6' long - entirely too many misses in getting a
straight edge; beyond 8' it gets to be a joke. That'd be the top of my list: a
nice long table, and 6" wide is fine by me, so long as I have access to a 10"
thicknesser as well.

I love my finishing planes but for joining boards, I prefer to use the machine.
If I had to join boards with handplanes, I'd likely give up building furniture!
Never tried the router method -- you've given me food for thought w.r.t. long
boards now

-Peter


--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

R. Pierce Butler wrote:
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.

I think the majority of posters will tell you to get an 8" jointer.
I only have a 6" jointer.. Then I realized that it was more than
adequate. Most of my boards don't need the face side joined. The planer
does a good enough job. I face joint so rarely that I don't mind
ripping the board down the middle to fit the jointer if I have to.

The only thing I'd suggest is to get a 6" jointer with a longer bed.
That has the advantage of letting you join longer pieces. In defense of
the 8" jointers, they generally have longer beds.

"jo4hn" wrote in message
...
R. Pierce Butler wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the 8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router
bit to straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.



I have the Grizzly 8". Great tool. My ancient Craftsman 6" tried to kill
me so I switched.
mahalo,
jo4hn

I'd have put a restraining order out on it!

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
Greg D. wrote in
:

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
wrote:



Thanks Greg. You gave me some helpful points and food for thought.
Maybe
I should just keep going with my handheld router, flush trim bit,
straghtedge and call it a day. I am just now starting to put my shop into
some kind of order after a hiatus of about 15 years. Tomorrow I pick up a
compressor, PC Plate joiner, and a monster Milwaukee router. I have some
kitchen cabinets to make as well as matching cabinets for the 2 and 1/2
bathrooms.

I also need a dust collector so that will be next.

There's only been one time in the past 15 years I wished I'd have had a
jointer bigger than my 6" one. So take that for what its worth.

Another thought. There are several advantages of an 8" jointer over a
6". Even if you don't ever need the full 8" knife width, you can
move the fence over more area to increase the time between
sharpenings. This may not seem like a big deal until you have to
change the knives.

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?

That's like asking should buy the Ford Escort or the Calidac Escalade.
There is alot of products price points in between.

DJ20's sound like a really nice product (I've never used one myself), but i
could not justify one hobbiest use. I upgraded from a smallish 6 to a
Yorkcraft YC8J; It was about $750 delivered, about 2 years ago. For
non-commercial use, I think the Griz and Yorkcraft products are a much more
sensible value.


I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit
to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.

You have not enjoyed working with really straight and flat stock until you
start by face jointing your own stock.

Assuming that you have a planer, start with rough stock. You will spend a
little more time on stock prep. but wou will save a bundle of money and have
better (straighter flatter) material.

-Steve

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.



My 2 cents - get a DJ-20.

I used to use a Craftsman 6" jointer/planer (as they called it.) For
me, it did everything a jointer had to do. Except is was too short.
Many times my projects have long parts, and the short beds of that 6"
machine just couldn't make 'em flat. The extra long beds of the DJ-20
are just the thing for that. Plus it just can't be stalled. The
motor is 220 vs 110 for that Craftsman. I really couldn't be happier
with it.

R. Pierce Butler wrote:
Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out
for the 8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could
save me some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush
cutting router bit to straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor
intensive.

Consider the Grizzly 8" jointer. I have one and it replaced a Delta 6"
jointer. The parallelogram beds design make it easier to do adjusments. One
of the tallest fences on the market and at about 550 pounds is stable. Also
it has wheels. You just step on the front pivot arm and viola, it can be
moved. On sale till 9-2-06.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0490

PS
Today the 15" planer arrives. Another summer sale item till 9-2. I also
bought the framing nail gun 2 months ago and it works as advertised.

--
Frank Howell


-----------------
www.Newsgroup-Binaries.com - *Completion*Retention*Speed*
Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
-----------------

Frank Howell wrote:

Consider the Grizzly 8" jointer.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0490

I wish I *could* buy that one. Unfortunately Grizzly won't ship to
Canada. (Some kind of deal with Busy Bee Tools, apparently.)

The closest equivalent available in Canada is the King KC-80FX, which
runs about $1074USD before shipping.

Chris

This Yank is a bit surprised you haven't considered General. They are
Canadian and make some very impressive machinery. See
http://www.general.ca/

--Jim

"George Max" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
wrote:

Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the
8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit
to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.



My 2 cents - get a DJ-20.

I used to use a Craftsman 6" jointer/planer (as they called it.) For
me, it did everything a jointer had to do. Except is was too short.
Many times my projects have long parts, and the short beds of that 6"
machine just couldn't make 'em flat. The extra long beds of the DJ-20
are just the thing for that. Plus it just can't be stalled. The
motor is 220 vs 110 for that Craftsman. I really couldn't be happier
with it.

KENDALL SEYBERT wrote:
This Yank is a bit surprised you haven't considered General. They are
Canadian and make some very impressive machinery. See
http://www.general.ca/

They make great stuff, but it's pretty expensive. Their imported line
is better, but compared to something like Grizzly its still quite a bit
higher-priced.

As a Canuck, I really envy you guys the ability to buy tools from
Grizzly and Amazon.

Chris

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
KENDALL SEYBERT wrote:
This Yank is a bit surprised you haven't considered General. They are
Canadian and make some very impressive machinery. See
http://www.general.ca/

They make great stuff, but it's pretty expensive. Their imported line is
better, but compared to something like Grizzly its still quite a bit
higher-priced.

I bought my 6" General last Christmas and I've really enjoyed having it. I
use it a lot more often than I thought I would, for small projects as well
as large.

I think there's no turning back for me. I've been "making do" for nearly
two decades, but now I'm committed to assembling what I think is a fully
equipped shop. One of the tools I'll have to wait for, but is high on my
priority list, is space.

I did the math on how much money I'd save buying rough cut lumber and using
the jointer to clean it up instead of paying the vendor. It will be many
many years before the jointer has paid for itself. That said, the quality
of my projects has gone up. So far it seems to be worth it.

- Owen -

I did the math on how much money I'd save buying rough cut lumber and
using the jointer to clean it up instead of paying the vendor. It will be
many many years before the jointer has paid for itself. That said, the
quality of my projects has gone up. So far it seems to be worth it.

- Owen -

Amen brother. I would have never anticipated the subtle but significant
quality improvements that result from really flat and square stock. The
only way to get that consistantly is to have freshly milled surfaces.

-Steve

Tim Taylor wrote:
"jo4hn" wrote in message
...

R. Pierce Butler wrote:


Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for
the 8" DJ-20?

I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save
me some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router
bit to straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.




I have the Grizzly 8". Great tool. My ancient Craftsman 6" tried to kill
me so I switched.
mahalo,
jo4hn


I'd have put a restraining order out on it!


I gave it to my neighbor.
shhhhhhhhhhhhhh,
jo4hn