I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

I use MDF guides that I make myself with HDF sliding bases for the
circular saw (7.25" MIlwaukee with Freud finish blade). Look for a
straight-line factory edge on the MDF board to rip against. I can
usually cut a fair glue-line with this rig. The panel-cutting table is
a great tool. Here are the plans for both the table and guides

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/graph...wintheshop.pdf

You're right thinner is better. So, a piece of scrap wood and a few minutes
will make a holder so the scale won't fall over.
"Ken" wrote in message
...
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or
something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool
for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

"Ken" wrote in message
...
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or
something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool
for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken


This a little pricey depending on metal suppliers in your area but........a
piece of aluminum flat stock 1/8"-1/4" thick and 2" -3" wide makes a nice
striaghtedge. I have a 2" x 1/8" x8' piece that has served me well, but at
times I wish it was thicker. It deflects in the middle while ripping a sheet
of plywood. I clamp a block of wood for a brace as a workaround for this.
Good Luck Lyndell

Thanks for the article. Normally I use a clamp n guide but this jig makes it
easier to line up your actual cutting edge. I think I'll make one 48" which
solves most of my needs. I'm new at this though so my needs are few.

Making one larger than 48" isn't likely during the weekend. Lowes is too
crowded and I would need it ripped to fit into my Saturn. Although this
looks like a great solution for the cutting guide it doesn't address the straight
edge for determining flatness.

Thanks for the great info. I'll be making one of these soon.

Ken

"Andrew Williams" wrote in message news:230720061642586153%andrewSPAMALOT@williamsmus ic.com...
I use MDF guides that I make myself with HDF sliding bases for the
circular saw (7.25" MIlwaukee with Freud finish blade). Look for a
straight-line factory edge on the MDF board to rip against. I can
usually cut a fair glue-line with this rig. The panel-cutting table is
a great tool. Here are the plans for both the table and guides

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/graph...wintheshop.pdf

I checked this stuff out at Lowes and Home Depot. It was visibly curved.
Even the angle brackets were visibly distorted. I guess I could
get a straight piece from a real metal supplier but I don't know of any
in my area. Metal stock would be helpful in quite a few jigs so I will
have to get around town and see what is available.

Thanks

Ken

"Lyndell Thompson" wrote in message nk.net...


This a little pricey depending on metal suppliers in your area but........a
piece of aluminum flat stock 1/8"-1/4" thick and 2" -3" wide makes a nice
striaghtedge. I have a 2" x 1/8" x8' piece that has served me well, but at
times I wish it was thicker. It deflects in the middle while ripping a sheet
of plywood. I clamp a block of wood for a brace as a workaround for this.
Good Luck Lyndell

"CW" wrote in message ink.net...
You're right thinner is better. So, a piece of scrap wood and a few minutes
will make a holder so the scale won't fall over.

That is 'slap my head' / 'of course' kind of good advice.

I'll make two little brackets that come down from the top of a steel
ruler to keep it near a 90 degree angle to the surface being checked.

The only potential gotcha is to make sure the brackets holding the
ruler up don't also change the way it lies on the surface being checked.

What I would do is make two small blocks. One for each end of the
straightedge. Imbed a small magnet in each. No clamping distortion or damage
to the scale.

"Ken" wrote in message
...

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...
You're right thinner is better. So, a piece of scrap wood and a few
minutes
will make a holder so the scale won't fall over.

That is 'slap my head' / 'of course' kind of good advice.

I'll make two little brackets that come down from the top of a steel
ruler to keep it near a 90 degree angle to the surface being checked.

The only potential gotcha is to make sure the brackets holding the
ruler up don't also change the way it lies on the surface being checked.

Short, convenient, friendly to hand & wood, straight as hell:
http://patwarner.com/bev_straight_edge.html
__________________________________________________ ___________________-
Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

Rockler


wrote in message
oups.com...
Short, convenient, friendly to hand & wood, straight as hell:
http://patwarner.com/bev_straight_edge.html
__________________________________________________ ___________________-
Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or
something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool
for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

http://www.grizzly.com/products/H2675


"Ken" wrote in message
...
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or
something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool
for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

Long machinists straight edges
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=738803

"Ken" wrote in message
...
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or
something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool
for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

"Woodhead" wrote in message ...
Long machinists straight edges
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=738803


$469 dollars for the 96" one. $158 for 48". Probably comparable
to the prices for Starrett. I'm sure these are worth the price for
machinists but the surface of wood when magnified to the level
of precision of these tools would look like a raging ocean.

I would certainly love to receive one of these or a Starrett as a
gift but I can't afford buying one myself. Since wood will never
be as flat as the machinist tools I don't think it is necessary to
buy them except for the pure joy of having a quality precision tool.

Thanks

Ken

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 20:56:34 GMT, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:


"Ken" wrote in message
m...
snip

This a little pricey depending on metal suppliers in your area but........a
piece of aluminum flat stock 1/8"-1/4" thick and 2" -3" wide makes a nice
striaghtedge. I have a 2" x 1/8" x8' piece that has served me well, but at
times I wish it was thicker. It deflects in the middle while ripping a sheet
of plywood. I clamp a block of wood for a brace as a workaround for this.
Good Luck Lyndell

I think I'd go for a section of aluminum channel approx. 1" x 2-1/2
or 3". It should remain fairly straight and would not be subject to
flexing easily.

HTH
Bill

Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.
snip

You need two(2) different tools.

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

Get an aluminum angle 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of C-Clamps (I use
3") from Home Depot, etc.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Get an aluminum angle 3/4"x3/4"x1/16"x96" again from Home Depot, etc.

Flip the angle upside down and use the apex as a knife edge.

If you see daylight, it's a low spot.

In the boat building business it's called a fairing batten.

Using it correctly, a 1/32" error stands out like ugly on an ape.

Have fun.

Lew

my best long straight edge is a piece of 7074t6 aluminum- your basic
aircraft aluminum- that I got at a junkyard. it's about 1/4" x 6" x 7'
or so and is as straight as I can measure. it cost me about $11.00

In article ,
Ken wrote:

"Woodhead" wrote in message
.. .
Long machinists straight edges
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=738803


$469 dollars for the 96" one. $158 for 48". Probably comparable
to the prices for Starrett. I'm sure these are worth the price for
machinists but the surface of wood when magnified to the level
of precision of these tools would look like a raging ocean.

I would certainly love to receive one of these or a Starrett as a
gift but I can't afford buying one myself. Since wood will never
be as flat as the machinist tools I don't think it is necessary to
buy them except for the pure joy of having a quality precision tool.

Thanks

Ken



Grainger and I would guess MSC and McMaster-Carr as well have aluminum
straight edges of 4, 6, and 8 ft length. I have a 6 footer that I use
for hand jointing among other things. IIRC the cost was under $20
about 5 years ago.

A steel one would be nice but the price of these Al straightedeges is
hard to beat. They do require some care to prevent flexing when being
used.


I do remember when I purchased it, I had looked up the stock number in
the catalog before I went to Grainger. When I went to the counter a
young lady waited on me. I gave her the number, she relayed it to one
of the warehouse workers, who brought it out to the counter a few
minutes later. It was all I could do to keep from laughing out loud
when she said, "My, that's a long one, isn't it!"


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"Ken" wrote

I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

You can tell a great deal by attempting to swivel a straightedge.

If the work is convex or contains local bumps, it will use the humps of
these features as a pivot.

If the work is concave, it will just swivel at the end points.

Can save a lot of backache!

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

"CW" wrote

You're right thinner is better.

Only providing that the straightedge is not bowed.

If inclined even slightly from right-angles to the surface, it will give a
false concave or convex reading.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

Since you are a Lee Valley customer, have a look at these:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313


Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.


Would a pipe be good for this? That way you could roll it along the
workpiece and see low/high spots as it went along...

Though I don't know if a pipe would be straight enough... I was just
throwing it out as another possible idea.

-Nathan

Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

Finding a tool to solve item 2 has been the most trouble.
I'm currently working on workbench slabs. I've hand planed the
tops and am about to square the edges using a circular saw and
cutting guide as discussed in another post.

To check the slab for flatness a large straight edge would be ideal
but not required. I can check the top in overlapping sections. I've
been using a 48" steel ruler held on edge to check for flatness. The
downside to this is that I have to hold the ruler and this makes it
difficult to have a strong light source behind the ruler and me far
enough away to detect any light. The top is pretty flat so I am
looking for minor imperfections at this point.

A straight edge 1" x 48" x .25" would be nice. The quarter inch edge
would allow me to stand the edge on the top and step back to check
for light coming between the edge and top. A level with a flat edge
doesn't suit this purpose because the smallest dimension is too wide to
check for minor imperfections. Need something thinner. Goldilocks?

Starret of course makes straight edges that would work great for this
purpose but I don't want to spend that kind of money. All I need to do
is see light shinning through small peaks and valleys. I do not need to
see the individual photons so Starret is too expensive but would be a
nice gift to recieve.

Metal stock from the big box stores is incredibly crooked so that is
not an alternative either. Clamp n guides are nice but the clamp part
would have to be removed to stand them on end (except on the edge
of the work)

I've been using Lee Valley winding sticks but they are too short.

Today I went to get a cutting guide to square off the slabs on my
workbench. I was going to use the factory edge of a piece of plywood.
Lowes is having an amazing sidewalk sale so the place is a zoo.
I drive a Saturn so I need the sheet of plywood cut. Looked like a
long wait on that so I went to see if I could find a 96" ruler or something.

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

N Hurst wrote:
Ken wrote:
I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.


Would a pipe be good for this? That way you could roll it along the
workpiece and see low/high spots as it went along...

Though I don't know if a pipe would be straight enough... I was just
throwing it out as another possible idea.

-Nathan

A pipe is just as likely to be as strait as a lot of the aluminum bar or
extrusion suggested in this thread. After machining literally tons of this
stuff, I have come to not trust it even as far as I could throw it. I guess
it depends on your definition of strait.
"N Hurst" wrote in message
oups.com...

Would a pipe be good for this? That way you could roll it along the
workpiece and see low/high spots as it went along...

Though I don't know if a pipe would be straight enough... I was just
throwing it out as another possible idea.

-Nathan

In article , Ken
wrote:

Thanks for the article. Normally I use a clamp n guide but this jig makes it
easier to line up your actual cutting edge. I think I'll make one 48" which
solves most of my needs. I'm new at this though so my needs are few.

Making one larger than 48" isn't likely during the weekend. Lowes is too
crowded and I would need it ripped to fit into my Saturn. Although this
looks like a great solution for the cutting guide it doesn't address the
straight
edge for determining flatness.

Thanks for the great info. I'll be making one of these soon.

Ken

No problem at all. Glad to be of some help. I have the 4 foot and 8
foot guides. The 8-foot guide has been used more lately, as it is an
effective edge jointer. When I cut with it it tends to produce a
decent glue-line (even at that length) although cutting wood that long
sometimes will release internal stresses which cause subsequent
crooking of the cut pieces.

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 15:59:58 -0400, "Ken"
wrote:

I've been looking for a good straight edge for a while now.
I want it to serve two purposes:

1.) Straight edge for a cutting guide.

2.) Straight edge to determine if hand planed stuff is flat.

SNIP

Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool for 20
bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken


I have a cutting guide similar to the one you have described, but it
is about 20 years old. One day, I held the two sections edgeto-edge.
What a disappointment; there was a lot of light shining through.

I hope your edge guides are better. I don't know of anything in the
extrusion process that would necessarliy produce a straight or flat
product. I suspect that there may be some post processing to yield a
saw guide that is straight and flat. The bar stock in the home
centers has not had any post processing.

Regards,
Ed

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 15:59:58 -0400, Ken wrote:


Long story finally ended. Swanson had a 100" cutting guide that can stand
on end. It is two 50" pieces optionally joined in the center. Great tool
for 20 bucks that solves both my problems.

Wow. Lots of words to talk about straight lines.

Ken

Ken, Glad you found something that works. I live near both a J & L
Industrial and a Production Tool store. I would probably have simply
bought a suitable piece of ground flat stock perhaps .250 thick by 1.5"
wide and been done with it.

Bill

Ground flat stock is an often overlooked source for a strait edge but not
available in the large size he was looking for.
"W Canaday" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 15:59:58 -0400, Ken wrote:
Ken, Glad you found something that works. I live near both a J & L
Industrial and a Production Tool store. I would probably have simply
bought a suitable piece of ground flat stock perhaps .250 thick by 1.5"
wide and been done with it.

Bill