I've just started using my HVLP conversion gun. I'm curious what folks here
believe is a good practice as far as cleaning goes. So far, when I'm done,
I spray solvent for whatever I'm spraying through the gun to try and get
whatever finish out. That seems basic. Beyond that, I'm curious how ofter
people break down the gun and give it a "thorough" cleaning.

todd

todd wrote:
I've just started using my HVLP conversion gun. I'm curious what folks here
believe is a good practice as far as cleaning goes. So far, when I'm done,
I spray solvent for whatever I'm spraying through the gun to try and get
whatever finish out. That seems basic. Beyond that, I'm curious how ofter
people break down the gun and give it a "thorough" cleaning.

todd

I only shoot waterborne finishes. I have a bucket of water at the
ready, and when I'm done shooting I dump the gun into the bucket. that
buys me time to deal with other cleanup, and when I can I strip the gun
down and scrub it out with dish detergent using pipe cleaner type
brushes. the needles and such get a short soak in a bottle of laquer
thinner before the scrubdown.

In article ,
says...
I've just started using my HVLP conversion gun. I'm curious what folks here
believe is a good practice as far as cleaning goes. So far, when I'm done,
I spray solvent for whatever I'm spraying through the gun to try and get
whatever finish out. That seems basic. Beyond that, I'm curious how ofter
people break down the gun and give it a "thorough" cleaning.

todd



I only clean mine after I use it :-) That is, disassembled and
thoroughly cleaned.

I didn't do that the first few times and build-up began to be noticeable
and its a real pain to get off later. The solution I found was to just
go ahead and plan to do a thorough cleaning after EVERY use. I do
stack/plan spray projects to get more done per cleaning.

"todd" wrote in message
. ..
I've just started using my HVLP conversion gun. I'm curious what folks
here
believe is a good practice as far as cleaning goes. So far, when I'm
done,
I spray solvent for whatever I'm spraying through the gun to try and get
whatever finish out. That seems basic. Beyond that, I'm curious how
ofter
people break down the gun and give it a "thorough" cleaning.

todd



I completely disassemble my guns and thoroughly clean them after every use
Todd. I start by dumping the cup and throwing some solvent (appropriate to
the material I'm shooting, but most often lacquer thinner) into the cup. I
swish and rinse the bulk of what's in there out and pour it off into a
collection can. I generally give the inside of the cup a quick wipe to get
most of what remains out, since a quick swish does not usually really clean
the cup. With a half way clean cup, I pour in some more solvent and shoot
it through the gun. I give it quite a good shot to make sure I'm getting a
good amount of solvent through the passages. Then I disassemble the entire
gun and clean and dry every piece with solvent. Pay particular attention to
the cap. The small holes can easily clog. I store my cap, nozzle, spring,
and needle in the cup with an inch or so of mineral spirits in the bottom.
Make sure that you keep the seal on your cup impeccably clean. Some
materials will cause you fits if they harden on. Make sure you keep the cup
vent clean as well.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:

I completely disassemble my guns and thoroughly clean them after every use
Todd. I start by dumping the cup and throwing some solvent (appropriate to
the material I'm shooting, but most often lacquer thinner) into the cup.

SNIP of good info for brevity

Make sure that you keep the seal on your cup impeccably clean. Some
materials will cause you fits if they harden on. Make sure you keep the cup
vent clean as well.

--

-Mike-


Hmm... I am thinking that maybe my method is more pertinent to what I
am shooting. I use my Q4 for lacquer only, and I clean immediately
after shooting. I think Todd, you might want to take a look at your
manual. On page 9 - 10 it tells you how to clean the gun, cup, etc.
My only issue is to keep the cup seal clean so I can get good pressure
when I spray again; the lacquer builds quickly and I need a scrubby to
get it off the rim of the cup. I have taken the gun apart to look
inside after a day of spraying (lacquer), and it is really clean inside
after cleaning as directed. So far, so good.

But on the other hand, I do my high pressure siphon guns exactly as
Mike said. I break them down to the last piece, even if I just used
them for a quick touch up.
When they are spotless, they work well right out of storage. But I use
these guns more for coatings, primers, and sometimes alkyd enamels.

Unlike the HVLP gun, I can take apart the high pressure gun and throw
it in a bucket of solvent and go to lunch, or leave it overnight. NOT
so with the HVLP. It is a good thing that the Fuji is easy to clean as
I do it about 4-5 times a day, switching between coatings when I am on
a day of finishing.

Just remember if you do feel the urge to break the gun down, read the
info in the booklet about the gun block. You cannot remove it as it is
pressed in place at the factory. It is stainless steel machine pressed
into cast aluminum.... don't even try.

Robert

wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:

I completely disassemble my guns and thoroughly clean them after every use
Todd. I start by dumping the cup and throwing some solvent (appropriate to
the material I'm shooting, but most often lacquer thinner) into the cup.

SNIP of good info for brevity

Make sure that you keep the seal on your cup impeccably clean. Some
materials will cause you fits if they harden on. Make sure you keep the cup
vent clean as well.

--

-Mike-


Hmm... I am thinking that maybe my method is more pertinent to what I
am shooting. I use my Q4 for lacquer only, and I clean immediately
after shooting. I think Todd, you might want to take a look at your
manual. On page 9 - 10 it tells you how to clean the gun, cup, etc.
My only issue is to keep the cup seal clean so I can get good pressure
when I spray again; the lacquer builds quickly and I need a scrubby to
get it off the rim of the cup. I have taken the gun apart to look
inside after a day of spraying (lacquer), and it is really clean inside
after cleaning as directed. So far, so good.

But on the other hand, I do my high pressure siphon guns exactly as
Mike said. I break them down to the last piece, even if I just used
them for a quick touch up.
When they are spotless, they work well right out of storage. But I use
these guns more for coatings, primers, and sometimes alkyd enamels.

Unlike the HVLP gun, I can take apart the high pressure gun and throw
it in a bucket of solvent and go to lunch, or leave it overnight. NOT
so with the HVLP. It is a good thing that the Fuji is easy to clean as
I do it about 4-5 times a day, switching between coatings when I am on
a day of finishing.

Just remember if you do feel the urge to break the gun down, read the
info in the booklet about the gun block. You cannot remove it as it is
pressed in place at the factory. It is stainless steel machine pressed
into cast aluminum.... don't even try.

Robert

PLEASE help. I took my Devilbiss apart and cannot figure out how to
reassemble the main shaft/needle/spring so that the needle is pushed
back out upon trigger release. Has anyone seen a diagram anywhere.

Thanks,

Jim

wrote in message
ups.com...



But on the other hand, I do my high pressure siphon guns exactly as
Mike said. I break them down to the last piece, even if I just used
them for a quick touch up.
When they are spotless, they work well right out of storage. But I use
these guns more for coatings, primers, and sometimes alkyd enamels.

Unlike the HVLP gun, I can take apart the high pressure gun and throw
it in a bucket of solvent and go to lunch, or leave it overnight. NOT
so with the HVLP. It is a good thing that the Fuji is easy to clean as
I do it about 4-5 times a day, switching between coatings when I am on
a day of finishing.


Robert's advice is well taken. I shoot much more with a standard high
pressure gun and I don't always stop to think about the different HVLP rigs
that are out there, and the differences between them and a conventional gun.

--

-Mike-

"Chicago" wrote in message
ups.com...


PLEASE help. I took my Devilbiss apart and cannot figure out how to
reassemble the main shaft/needle/spring so that the needle is pushed
back out upon trigger release. Has anyone seen a diagram anywhere.


Which model Devilbiss Jim?

You should be able to push the needle in from the rear of the gun, through
the packing and then put the spring in and the adjustment knob. You'll be
forcing the knob against the spring tension so it will take a small amount
of force until you get the threads started. Do this before putting the
nozzle and the cap back on the gun.

--

-Mike-

PLEASE help. I took my Devilbiss apart and cannot figure out how to
reassemble the main shaft/needle/spring so that the needle is pushed
back out upon trigger release. Has anyone seen a diagram anywhere.

Thanks,

Jim

There's a few different models. I've got 3, I'm sure I've got paperwork.
Although they should all be close to the same.

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Chicago" wrote in message
ups.com...


PLEASE help. I took my Devilbiss apart and cannot figure out how to
reassemble the main shaft/needle/spring so that the needle is pushed
back out upon trigger release. Has anyone seen a diagram anywhere.


Which model Devilbiss Jim?

You should be able to push the needle in from the rear of the gun, through
the packing and then put the spring in and the adjustment knob. You'll be
forcing the knob against the spring tension so it will take a small amount
of force until you get the threads started. Do this before putting the
nozzle and the cap back on the gun.

--

-Mike-


But Mike, if I put the needle in the back and assemble that way, the
needle will not even come close to the end of the nozzle up front.
Shouldn't it reach the tip of the nozzle after the handle is released?

Jim

"Chicago" wrote in message
ups.com...

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Chicago" wrote in message
ups.com...


PLEASE help. I took my Devilbiss apart and cannot figure out how to
reassemble the main shaft/needle/spring so that the needle is pushed
back out upon trigger release. Has anyone seen a diagram anywhere.


Which model Devilbiss Jim?

You should be able to push the needle in from the rear of the gun,
through
the packing and then put the spring in and the adjustment knob. You'll
be
forcing the knob against the spring tension so it will take a small
amount
of force until you get the threads started. Do this before putting the
nozzle and the cap back on the gun.

--

-Mike-


But Mike, if I put the needle in the back and assemble that way, the
needle will not even come close to the end of the nozzle up front.
Shouldn't it reach the tip of the nozzle after the handle is released?


Push the needle all the way home from the back of the gun. It will reach.
Screw the adjusting screw all or most of the way in. You need to get all
three components interacting - the needle, the spring and the nozzle. In
order for this to happen you have to have the needle in a position where
the trigger can contact the larger section on the needle. This requires the
adjustment to be turned in some.

--

-Mike-