Does anyone have an opinion on these insert plates? They seem quite
nice and I like that they have them pre-drilled for a bunch of
different routers. I also like that they offer the extra large plates
(although it retails for $69 I think) for bigger routers. I have a
Freud FT2000.

So, any negative opinions out there? Better options?

Thanks,
Jeff

It's rugged, flat, and solid. It works nicely with the
Hitachi M12V which is fairly hefty. I really like the
aluminum.

JJ wrote:
Does anyone have an opinion on these insert plates? They seem quite
nice and I like that they have them pre-drilled for a bunch of
different routers. I also like that they offer the extra large plates
(although it retails for $69 I think) for bigger routers. I have a
Freud FT2000.

So, any negative opinions out there? Better options?

Thanks,
Jeff

JJ wrote:
Does anyone have an opinion on these insert plates? They seem quite
nice and I like that they have them pre-drilled for a bunch of
different routers. I also like that they offer the extra large plates
(although it retails for $69 I think) for bigger routers. I have a
Freud FT2000.

So, any negative opinions out there? Better options?

Thanks,
Jeff
You might want to look at these:
http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html

The plates are nice and work well. I bought one in the interim for my
Craftsman table. The problem then becomes the table itself. You can build a
Frankenstein with a collection of the best of the best component wise. What
you ultimately end up with is a hellofva ******* table. I got tired of
fooling myself and wasting time and bought what was the best table for my
needs and ended up with the Grizzly G5028. I can't complain, and the only
thing I would change is the router clamping and make it more like the
Veritas steel sheet. You just can't beat a machined cast iron top!

I was going to buy the Freud table and it was a toss up with the Veritas...
The conclusion fell to, I could spend less and not get what I really need
and get buy or spend much more and get what I really need!





"JJ" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anyone have an opinion on these insert plates? They seem quite
nice and I like that they have them pre-drilled for a bunch of
different routers. I also like that they offer the extra large plates
(although it retails for $69 I think) for bigger routers. I have a
Freud FT2000.

So, any negative opinions out there? Better options?

Thanks,
Jeff

JJ wrote:
Does anyone have an opinion on these insert plates? They seem quite
nice and I like that they have them pre-drilled for a bunch of
different routers. I also like that they offer the extra large plates
(although it retails for $69 I think) for bigger routers. I have a
Freud FT2000.

So, any negative opinions out there? Better options?

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff,

I am very happy with mine. Flat, solid and smooth.

Just recently I bought the Rockler/Jessem Lift, which fits the exact
cutout of the smaller Rockler plate. Haven't used it much yet, but fit
right in and was fired up in minutes.

Dave

On 29 Jun 2006 08:22:13 -0700, "JJ" wrote:

Does anyone have an opinion on these insert plates? They seem quite
nice and I like that they have them pre-drilled for a bunch of
different routers. I also like that they offer the extra large plates
(although it retails for $69 I think) for bigger routers. I have a
Freud FT2000.

So, any negative opinions out there? Better options?

Thanks,
Jeff


I really like mine. Mine happens to be drilled only for my Bosch
router. Very flat and solid. It solved a problem for me with the
weak mounting in my homemade table. I built the one featured in
Woodsmith many years ago. It's served me well, but I think it's time
for me to move on.

I won't buy a table, so I'm considering various plans starting with
the recent table Norm built on New Yankee Workshop.

One side note, this is the road to immortality. I've got so many
projects lined up I just can't seem to fit a date in for dying. Or
getting sick for that matter. So many projects, so little time.

George Max wrote:

I won't buy a table, so I'm considering various plans starting with
the recent table Norm built on New Yankee Workshop.

I built the early version, but I fudged a little.

Was given a "mistake" by a local lumber yard that consisted of three
(3) pieces of 13 ply (3/4") birch ply that had been laminated together.

Makes a hell of a router table top.

BTW, didn't have a table saw at the time.

Used a saber saw and a router with a straight edge to get the right size.

If you build a table, consider using at least two (2),13 ply sheets
laminated together.

As the old German used to say to my father, "she's built hell for stout".

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:

If you build a table, consider using at least two (2),13 ply sheets
laminated together.

Thanks for the advice Lew. I AM building a table and I AM using two
plys! :-)

Jeff

On Fri, 30 Jun 2006 03:41:44 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

George Max wrote:

I won't buy a table, so I'm considering various plans starting with
the recent table Norm built on New Yankee Workshop.

I built the early version, but I fudged a little.

Was given a "mistake" by a local lumber yard that consisted of three
(3) pieces of 13 ply (3/4") birch ply that had been laminated together.

Makes a hell of a router table top.

BTW, didn't have a table saw at the time.

Used a saber saw and a router with a straight edge to get the right size.

If you build a table, consider using at least two (2),13 ply sheets
laminated together.

As the old German used to say to my father, "she's built hell for stout".

Lew

Yeah, plywood was and is a problem with the first two tops I made.
What I mean is that after a year or two, I noticed that the top sagged
in the center by the router. I built it just as the plan said and
learned that a single sheet of plywood topped with hardboard just
didn't have the strength to hold the router up 24/7. So after I built
the 2nd top exactly the same, I put a 2 X 3 maple cleat at the rear
underneath. Well, that top *still* sagged! At the front. So I fixed
'er by putting another cleat at the front. And modified the rounter
mounting to use the Rockler plate.

So now as I approach the time when another table is necessary, I've
learned what I don't like about the Woodsmith design. Which at this
time is a lot. And that's not limited to the saggy top.

George Max wrote:

So now as I approach the time when another table is necessary, I've
learned what I don't like about the Woodsmith design. Which at this
time is a lot. And that's not limited to the saggy top.

I've always been known as a builder of brick outhouses, so a word to
the wise.

Build your top with a double layer of 13 ply Birch, screw that junk
from Home Depot.

Laminate a piece of counter grade plastic laminate (Wilson Art, etc)
on top of the plywood. Vertical is just too thin.

Try local cabinet shops, they may have a rem from a job at the right price

I found another deal for mine and used impregnated canvas sheet, but
that's another story. (Being around aerospace has it's advantages.)

I edge banded mine with 3/4" hard maple with box joints at the
corners, then laid in a T-Bar track for a miter gauge.

Trust me, when the big one comes and everything east of Barstow falls
off the earth, that top will still be hereG.

One other thing, use stainless hardware and fasteners. Eliminates
possible weather effects.

From beautiful SoCal where it hit 90F at the old boat yard,

Lew

I'm very happy with mine -
http://home.san.rr.com/jeffnann/Wood...Shop/Shop.html
- actually all the tabletop hardware came from Rockler...
I'm still looking forward to getting a bigger router dedicated to table use, and
being able to just swap out the plates.
--
JeffB
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