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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Oil Finish
My usual finishes are either poly or shellac, so using an oil finish is new
territory. I have used it on a couple of outdoor project where the eveness of the finish really did not matter. Now that the disclaimer is over, I have a chair (ash) that I have just finished for my daughter. She requested an oil finish, which I was more than glad to do because of the way the chair was made (12 legs crossing in an "X" pattern). So I got out my can of "J.E. Moser" interior oil finish, put on one coat and 30 minutes later wiped it off. Applied the second coat and 15 minutes later wiped it off. Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth followed by a soft cloth or what? Thanks Deb |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Oil Finish
Dr. Deb wrote:
: Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen : you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to : mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it : down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth : followed by a soft cloth or what? kkMost oil finishes require a number of repeated coats to build to an even luster. Try a few more, and see if things improve. Is the luster folowing the grain of the wood? -- Andy Barss |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Oil Finish
On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 08:33:02 -0500, "Dr. Deb" wrote:
I use a lot of Danish oil in my turning... hate to say this, but read the label.. *g* You basically flood the wood and let it set for 30 - 40 minutes before wiping it down and applying again... BUT, during that 30 minutes, you sort of stand there and watch the end grain or sanded parts get dry and re-flood them.. The nice thing about oil is that as long as you're wiping after an application, you can't ruin a finish by putting too much on... keep hitting your "not shiny" areas until it's uniformly absorbed/shiney.. YMWV My usual finishes are either poly or shellac, so using an oil finish is new territory. I have used it on a couple of outdoor project where the eveness of the finish really did not matter. Now that the disclaimer is over, I have a chair (ash) that I have just finished for my daughter. She requested an oil finish, which I was more than glad to do because of the way the chair was made (12 legs crossing in an "X" pattern). So I got out my can of "J.E. Moser" interior oil finish, put on one coat and 30 minutes later wiped it off. Applied the second coat and 15 minutes later wiped it off. Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth followed by a soft cloth or what? Thanks Deb Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Oil Finish
Andrew Barss wrote:
Dr. Deb wrote: : Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the : sheen : you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to : mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it : down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth : followed by a soft cloth or what? kkMost oil finishes require a number of repeated coats to build to an even luster. Try a few more, and see if things improve. Is the luster folowing the grain of the wood? -- Andy Barss No, the luster, or lack thereof, appears to be patchy. Deb |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Oil Finish
"Dr. Deb" wrote in message ... My usual finishes are either poly or shellac, so using an oil finish is new territory. I have used it on a couple of outdoor project where the eveness of the finish really did not matter. Now that the disclaimer is over, I have a chair (ash) that I have just finished for my daughter. She requested an oil finish, which I was more than glad to do because of the way the chair was made (12 legs crossing in an "X" pattern). So I got out my can of "J.E. Moser" interior oil finish, put on one coat and 30 minutes later wiped it off. Applied the second coat and 15 minutes later wiped it off. Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth followed by a soft cloth or what? What you see is normal, given the low solids content. Different areas have different grain orientations. You can continue coats to build a bit of surface, or you can take some 400 and smooth things back to a non-glare pattern. I use this procedure on salad bowls a lot. Couple coats of wipe-on polyurethane cut to a gloss-free surface will shed a bit of water and slow the gain in oil without creating a surface finish vulnerable to chips. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Oil Finish
I've never worked with Moser interior oil but with most oils it is best to wipe off each coat before the surface becomes "sticky". Something like tung oil should be cut 50/50 with turps for the first couple of coats. I always give a good rub between coats but I prefer very fine steel wool to sand paper. FoggyTown |
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