What do people like to use as a push stick for resawing?

The gauze around my right index finger will attest to my previous
approach as leaving something to be desired.

I was resawing a short piece of 1x6 walnut. My first mistake was
using a push stick (of the notch cut in a stick variety) that was too
short. I had made some short ones for a specific purpose a long time
ago and have had the bad habit of using them for other things they are
not safe for. Going in the trash tomorrow.

My second mistake was pushing with it too low. To my surprise the
stock actually lifted up at an angle (makes perfect sense now of
course). I pushed it back down, and the cut completed sooner than I
expected, as I'm paying more attention to what's going on behind the
blade than at the cut. Stock goes flying because I'm still pushing on
it. Push stick lurches forward. Knuckle visits band saw blade.
Blade wins. I am a lucky ******* that it did not go deep. If that
push stick had been 1/8" shorter I'd still be sitting in the emergency
room waiting for my stiches. If it had been an inch shorter...

So before I decide the solution is longer push stick and push from
above the midpoint, I think I shall see if there's a better way. I
don't have a whole lot of control for those last few inches, and
there's not much I can do to guide it from behind the blade without
closing the kerf. It doesn't help that my "fence" is a jointed 2x3
clamped to the table.

Lesson for the day: The wrong push stick is only as good or worse
than no push stick at all. Worse because of the illusion of safety.

Irony for the day: The other day I caught Dad not using a push stick
on the table saw and then end up doing the dumbest move I've ever seen
on a saw (reach around to the front of the blade from the *back* of
the saw - what, the blade isn't going to cut you because it can't see
you hiding behind it? what the hell?). I ordered him a magnetic one
for father's day so he'd have no more excuses earlier in the day.


-Leuf

Leuf wrote:
What do people like to use as a push stick for resawing?

The gauze around my right index finger will attest to my previous
approach as leaving something to be desired.

I was resawing a short piece of 1x6 walnut. My first mistake was
using a push stick (of the notch cut in a stick variety) that was too
short. I had made some short ones for a specific purpose a long time
ago and have had the bad habit of using them for other things they are
not safe for. Going in the trash tomorrow.

My second mistake was pushing with it too low. To my surprise the
stock actually lifted up at an angle (makes perfect sense now of
course). I pushed it back down, and the cut completed sooner than I
expected, as I'm paying more attention to what's going on behind the
blade than at the cut. Stock goes flying because I'm still pushing on
it. Push stick lurches forward. Knuckle visits band saw blade.
Blade wins. I am a lucky ******* that it did not go deep. If that
push stick had been 1/8" shorter I'd still be sitting in the emergency
room waiting for my stiches. If it had been an inch shorter...

So before I decide the solution is longer push stick and push from
above the midpoint, I think I shall see if there's a better way. I
don't have a whole lot of control for those last few inches, and
there's not much I can do to guide it from behind the blade without
closing the kerf. It doesn't help that my "fence" is a jointed 2x3
clamped to the table.

Lesson for the day: The wrong push stick is only as good or worse
than no push stick at all. Worse because of the illusion of safety.

Irony for the day: The other day I caught Dad not using a push stick
on the table saw and then end up doing the dumbest move I've ever seen
on a saw (reach around to the front of the blade from the *back* of
the saw - what, the blade isn't going to cut you because it can't see
you hiding behind it? what the hell?). I ordered him a magnetic one
for father's day so he'd have no more excuses earlier in the day.
I think you've got the gist of it. Tom

"Leuf" wrote in message
...
What do people like to use as a push stick for resawing?


Block is one great option, usually at hand. Divide the load, as you've
discovered, and things run more true.

Second type is like a jointer paddle, with a modest heel on it to hook the
trailing end of the piece, while the paddle maintains up against the fence.

If you use the second, don't use metal fasteners to put the heel on. DAMHIKT

Leuf writes:

What do people like to use as a push stick for resawing?


I have a 2" by 6" board with a heel strip at the end. I attached a
handle at 90 degrees, and curved the end near the heel for comfort.

The push stick rides on the edge. I can replace the strip, and the
large surface helps control the angle of the board.


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So before I decide the solution is longer push stick and push from
above the midpoint, I think I shall see if there's a better way. I
don't have a whole lot of control for those last few inches, and
there's not much I can do to guide it from behind the blade without
closing the kerf. It doesn't help that my "fence" is a jointed 2x3
clamped to the table.


What does it matter if you close the kerf while resawing on a bandsaw?
I typically just push through with my fingers then with the last few
inches pull it through the blade from behind. Now it's quite possible
that there is a better way but I haven't encountered any problems with
this and it always feels like a very safe operation. Kerf on a bandsaw
is really thin and if it binds all it will do is push harder against
table. Not like it will pinch and kick it back.

On Fri, 9 Jun 2006 07:40:23 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


"Leuf" wrote in message
.. .


I was resawing a short piece of 1x6 walnut. My first mistake was
using a push stick (of the notch cut in a stick variety) that was too
short. I had made some short ones for a specific purpose a long time
ago and have had the bad habit of using them for other things they are
not safe for. Going in the trash tomorrow.

Why? As you stated, they were the right thing for the original job which
makes them very useful. That you used the wrong tool for the job does not
make the tool junk. Keep them - you may find you need them for the right
application again in the future.

I'll replace em with longer ones. If I'm in a situation where
gripping closer is safe and desirable I can grip them further down.


Your fence has nothing to do with it. A fence is a fence and the stock
can't really tell the difference between a chunk of aluminum or a slab of
wood. You're on the right track though. Look at it some more. I bet you
can come up with a clever - or even a not so clever way of keeping the kerf
open. I'll bet that idea has little to do with your fence.

The fence isn't high enough to resaw something that wide. That's why
I was pushing low, if I'd been up higher where I wanted to be the
stock would have toed out from the fence. It was pushing low that
caused the back to lift up, and the lift up that caused the incident.
It's usually not one thing that causes a problem but when multiple
things happen that get you in trouble.

Irony for the day: The other day I caught Dad not using a push stick
on the table saw and then end up doing the dumbest move I've ever seen
on a saw (reach around to the front of the blade from the *back* of
the saw - what, the blade isn't going to cut you because it can't see
you hiding behind it? what the hell?). I ordered him a magnetic one
for father's day so he'd have no more excuses earlier in the day.


There are lots of reasons not to use a push stick. It depends on the cut
and the stock. Remember one thing... a push stick lessens the amount of
control that you can exert compared to what you could do if you can safely
use just your hands. The key to that statement should be obvious. Push
sticks are not the ultimate answer, they are part of a tool kit. I do agree
with you that a reach past the blade is a bad practice.

Well I don't think most of us would attempt to rip a 30" long piece of
2x4 in half without some sort of safety aid. I totally agree that
using a push stick where one isn't needed actually increases the
danger. What bothers me is that I saw him look for the push stick,
give up after about 3 seconds and then go ahead with the cut anyway,
get 3/4s through and then try to make something up. Btw, the push
sticks were in the drawer next to the saw where they were supposed to
be. Now it's going to have a new home out in plain sight on the saw.
It is not a cure for his problem, but I can't get him to listen to me.
A trip to the emergency room didn't get through to him either.


-Leuf

On 9 Jun 2006 06:56:43 -0700, "damian penney"
wrote:

What does it matter if you close the kerf while resawing on a bandsaw?
I typically just push through with my fingers then with the last few
inches pull it through the blade from behind. Now it's quite possible
that there is a better way but I haven't encountered any problems with
this and it always feels like a very safe operation. Kerf on a bandsaw
is really thin and if it binds all it will do is push harder against
table. Not like it will pinch and kick it back.

I don't know, it's not a kickback causer as on a TS, yes. But you
might stall the motor, create a lot of heat that would be bad for the
blade and maybe burn the wood. Also if you're flexing the board then
you may be pulling the stock that hasn't been cut yet away from the
fence and not get a straight cut. Or at least that's what seemed to
happen when I tried that. On a longer board I don't think it'd be an
issue, but on the shorter stuff I usually am working with it seems to
be.


-Leuf

On Fri, 9 Jun 2006 10:25:22 +0000 (UTC), Bruce Barnett
wrote:

Leuf writes:

What do people like to use as a push stick for resawing?


I have a 2" by 6" board with a heel strip at the end. I attached a
handle at 90 degrees, and curved the end near the heel for comfort.

The push stick rides on the edge. I can replace the strip, and the
large surface helps control the angle of the board.

I think you and George have it. If anything lets go the hand is out
away from the cut.


-Leuf

Leuf writes:

I think you and George have it. If anything lets go the hand is out
away from the cut.

Yeah - the hand is to the right of the blade, and the blade cannot
approach the hand even if it slips. It also allows you to start with a
long board and without moving the right hand, so the cut is even and
straight.

I found that it's important to have the push block ride on the side
(or where the side would rest on the table when you get to the table)
- when cutting long boards. I move the left hand when needed, and keep
the right hand in the same place.

I use it to cut slices off a 4' by 12" board.


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"Leuf" wrote in message
...


Well I don't think most of us would attempt to rip a 30" long piece of
2x4 in half without some sort of safety aid. I totally agree that
using a push stick where one isn't needed actually increases the
danger. What bothers me is that I saw him look for the push stick,
give up after about 3 seconds and then go ahead with the cut anyway,
get 3/4s through and then try to make something up. Btw, the push
sticks were in the drawer next to the saw where they were supposed to
be. Now it's going to have a new home out in plain sight on the saw.
It is not a cure for his problem, but I can't get him to listen to me.
A trip to the emergency room didn't get through to him either.


Well that explains it all. What man in his right mind looks in the place
where something is supposed to be? Talk about a huge waste of energy. What
had me puzzled about your dad's actions is why he never looked over to the
nearest flat surface. There's a high probability that what ever you are
looking for is somewhere between the middle and the bottom third of the
stack of crap located there. Says so, right in the Bible...

--

-Mike-

When resawing on a bandsaw I don't have any problem pulling the
work through to finish the cut. Typically a bandsaw table is
so small you have tohold onto the wood anyhow and I use a
resaw 'fence' that is a vertical post with one corner aligned
with the teeth of the saw. A long fence is more trouble than
help on a bandsaw.

As to the kerf closing on the blade, it won't cause kickback but
it might burn the wood or stall the saw.

--

FF

On Fri, 09 Jun 2006 01:41:10 -0400, Leuf
wrote:

What do people like to use as a push stick for resawing?


Isn't that one of the uses for a dead cat?