We have windows in our new addition that need to be finished. The interior
is pine. I'm using a gel stain, but am wondering what I should use as a top
coat. If anyone can read this through all of the other posts cluttering up
the newsgroup, what would you use on top of the stain?

todd

todd wrote:
We have windows in our new addition that need to be finished. The interior
is pine. I'm using a gel stain, but am wondering what I should use as a top
coat. If anyone can read this through all of the other posts cluttering up
the newsgroup, what would you use on top of the stain?

todd


G'day Todd,
I'd use a UV protective poly. I know it's the interior that you are
concerned about, but the sun can still do a lot damage over the years.
I find poly a pain in the $%$$ to use, but it has it's uses and this is
one

all the best
John

"todd" wrote in message
...
We have windows in our new addition that need to be finished. The
interior is pine. I'm using a gel stain, but am wondering what I should
use as a top coat. If anyone can read this through all of the other posts
cluttering up the newsgroup, what would you use on top of the stain?

todd



Any varnish offering UV protection.

If it is knotty pine, seal the wood first with shellac to prevent sap
from bleeding through. Shellac is compatable with most materials for
overcaoting, and is itself a good finish for pine tongue-in-groove
walls. I'd suggest spar varnish overcoat if you need durability for a
damp area (ie, wooden window sashes that tend to get damp from water
condesate on the glass panes in a spa enclosure or bathroom, etc ).
The UV-proof poly that others have mentioned here is well suited when
your stain has a reddish color, since red pigments tend to sun-bleach
terribly.

In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

Any varnish offering UV protection.

And for Todd's info, polyurethanes are varnishes; and I agree with John
B's recommendation to use poly. It's a very tough wearing, protective
finish.

Don't go cheap on the product - buy one of the most expensive you can
find from a real paint store (not a home center). The expensive brands
will contain more of the protective urethane resins and less of the
secondary materials. This quality of poly goes between $50-100 per
gallon.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

As a sealer under a topcoat the shellac should be dewaxed to avoid
adhesion problems. Waxy shellac is compatible with some materials but
why chance a problem?

On 20 May 2006 07:26:15 -0700, "jim_duprey"
wrote:

If it is knotty pine, seal the wood first with shellac to prevent sap
from bleeding through. Shellac is compatable with most materials for
overcaoting, and is itself a good finish for pine tongue-in-groove
walls. I'd suggest spar varnish overcoat if you need durability for a
damp area (ie, wooden window sashes that tend to get damp from water
condesate on the glass panes in a spa enclosure or bathroom, etc ).
The UV-proof poly that others have mentioned here is well suited when
your stain has a reddish color, since red pigments tend to sun-bleach
terribly.