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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Greetings,
Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. Thanks and regards, Hank |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Henry St.Pierre wrote:
Greetings, Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. Thanks and regards, Hank I have done overlays many times in the past, using just the method that you describe. However, I have always used the solvent based contact cement. I believe in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" method, so I have never tried the water based solvent. For what its worth, the guy that I use for formica on larger projects told me that he would NOT use water base cement due to warranty problems in the past. He did not elaborate. -- Robert Allison Rimshot, Inc. Georgetown, TX |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote: tips - make sure you degrease the surface very well - make sure the existing laminate is securely bonded to the substrate -- Owen Lowe The Fly-by-Night Copper Company __________ "I pledge allegiance to the flag of the Corporate States of America and to the Republicans for which it stands, one nation, under debt, easily divisible, with liberty and justice for oil." - Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05 |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote: Greetings, Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. Thanks and regards, Hank I do countertops for a living^H^H^H^H^support my tool habit. The problem with roughing up (36-grit belt sander) laminate, is that you will get 'tooth' but whatever adhesive you use, won't have an efficient place for the solvent to vent to. Water based contact cement, like its solvent based mate, needs at least one surface to be porous enough to absorb the liquid from the adhesive after flash-off. The bulk will flash off whilst getting it ready before the 'contact', but the usual absorption by the substrate won't be nearly as effective with old laminate in the way... The solvent based cement will do a better job in your application. (Because you can flash off way more solvent, to the point that the cement is dry to the touch, and still have excellent 'stick'. The water based cement doesn't have as long an open time. On fresh PB or MDF, the water based products work great. Wilsonart WA3000 (http://www.wilsonart.com/productlib/...es/3000_TD.pdf) is a PVA adhesive which is not a contact cement but might be a better choice if your heart is set on water based. You apply it to the substrate only and you have a very narrow window to apply your laminate..and then you roll it with all your might/weight. That stuff is phenomenal. 5 gallon is the smallest qty you can buy so maybe calling the distributor in your area might be the way to go. Hopefully they will know who uses that adhesive in your area...and they might sell you what you need. Good luck! HTH r |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Robatoy wrote in
: In article 42, "Henry St.Pierre" wrote: Greetings, Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. Thanks and regards, Hank I do countertops for a living^H^H^H^H^support my tool habit. The problem with roughing up (36-grit belt sander) laminate, is that you will get 'tooth' but whatever adhesive you use, won't have an efficient place for the solvent to vent to. Water based contact cement, like its solvent based mate, needs at least one surface to be porous enough to absorb the liquid from the adhesive after flash-off. The bulk will flash off whilst getting it ready before the 'contact', but the usual absorption by the substrate won't be nearly as effective with old laminate in the way... The solvent based cement will do a better job in your application. (Because you can flash off way more solvent, to the point that the cement is dry to the touch, and still have excellent 'stick'. The water based cement doesn't have as long an open time. On fresh PB or MDF, the water based products work great. Wilsonart WA3000 (http://www.wilsonart.com/productlib/...es/3000_TD.pdf) is a PVA adhesive which is not a contact cement but might be a better choice if your heart is set on water based. You apply it to the substrate only and you have a very narrow window to apply your laminate..and then you roll it with all your might/weight. That stuff is phenomenal. 5 gallon is the smallest qty you can buy so maybe calling the distributor in your area might be the way to go. Hopefully they will know who uses that adhesive in your area...and they might sell you what you need. Good luck! HTH r Thanks Robotoy, Owen and Robert. I was choosing waterborne because of the lack of odor. The lady I'm doing the job for has a very acute sense of smell (I sometimes refer to her as the 'beagle', though she is far from a dog. Her sense of smell is so acute that I make all my girlfriends wear Old Spice aftershave. It ****es them off, but saves my parts. Thanks again, Hank |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote: . I was choosing waterborne because of the lack of odor. In-home use of a lot of solvent based contact cement can kill a budgie. .. ... or so I'm told. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
In article 42, Henry
St.Pierre wrote: Greetings, Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. Thanks and regards, Hank I asked about this in alt.home.repair and was pointed to this technical brief http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...ocuments.GnFPa rSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf at http://formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/documents.html djb |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article 42, Henry St.Pierre wrote: Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. I asked about this in alt.home.repair and was pointed to this technical brief http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...ocuments.GnFPa rSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf at http://formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/documents.html or even: URL:http://formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/documents.GnFParSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf er -- email not valid |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
In article , Enoch
Root wrote: or even: URL:http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...uments.GnFParS ys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf Yes... That was the first of the two URLs I posted. The second was the page listing many docs including that one. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Dave Balderstone wrote in
news:090520061454417522%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca: http://formica.com/publish Thanks Dave, I really appreciated the part of the artical that stated " DO not use water based adhesive". Regards, Hank |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Enoch Root wrote in
: http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...ocuments.GnFPa rSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf Enoch, Like I said to Dave, Thanks. Hank |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Enoch Root wrote: URL:http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...uments.GnFParS ys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf Yes... That was the first of the two URLs I posted. The second was the page listing many docs including that one. Heh, your newsreader broke that one, too. I was just fixing it. er -- email not valid |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New over old (laminate)
In article , Enoch
Root wrote: Heh, your newsreader broke that one, too. I was just fixing it. Enclosing a URL in angle brackets thusly should preserve it across line breaks in a well-behaved newsreader (like the one I use, and I thought T-Bird too) but it all goes to crap as soon as it's quoted. No worries. |
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