Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Henry St.Pierre
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Greetings,
Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over
old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and
haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old
surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to
grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement
Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new
laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be
appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Hank
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Robert Allison
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Henry St.Pierre wrote:
Greetings,
Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over
old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and
haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old
surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to
grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement
Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new
laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be
appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Hank


I have done overlays many times in the past, using just the
method that you describe. However, I have always used the
solvent based contact cement. I believe in the "if it ain't
broke, don't fix it" method, so I have never tried the water
based solvent.

For what its worth, the guy that I use for formica on larger
projects told me that he would NOT use water base cement due
to warranty problems in the past. He did not elaborate.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Fly-by-Night CC
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote:

tips


- make sure you degrease the surface very well

- make sure the existing laminate is securely bonded to the substrate
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Robatoy
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote:

Greetings,
Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over
old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and
haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old
surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to
grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement
Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new
laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be
appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Hank


I do countertops for a living^H^H^H^H^support my tool habit.
The problem with roughing up (36-grit belt sander) laminate, is that you
will get 'tooth' but whatever adhesive you use, won't have an efficient
place for the solvent to vent to. Water based contact cement, like its
solvent based mate, needs at least one surface to be porous enough to
absorb the liquid from the adhesive after flash-off. The bulk will flash
off whilst getting it ready before the 'contact', but the usual
absorption by the substrate won't be nearly as effective with old
laminate in the way... The solvent based cement will do a better job in
your application. (Because you can flash off way more solvent, to the
point that the cement is dry to the touch, and still have excellent
'stick'. The water based cement doesn't have as long an open time.

On fresh PB or MDF, the water based products work great.

Wilsonart WA3000
(http://www.wilsonart.com/productlib/...es/3000_TD.pdf) is
a PVA adhesive which is not a contact cement but might be a better
choice if your heart is set on water based. You apply it to the
substrate only and you have a very narrow window to apply your
laminate..and then you roll it with all your might/weight. That stuff is
phenomenal. 5 gallon is the smallest qty you can buy so maybe calling
the distributor in your area might be the way to go. Hopefully they will
know who uses that adhesive in your area...and they might sell you what
you need.

Good luck!

HTH

r
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Henry St.Pierre
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Robatoy wrote in
:

In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote:

Greetings,
Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate
over
old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work
and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume
the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the
contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact
cement
Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing
new
laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be
appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Hank


I do countertops for a living^H^H^H^H^support my tool habit.
The problem with roughing up (36-grit belt sander) laminate, is that
you will get 'tooth' but whatever adhesive you use, won't have an
efficient place for the solvent to vent to. Water based contact
cement, like its solvent based mate, needs at least one surface to be
porous enough to absorb the liquid from the adhesive after flash-off.
The bulk will flash off whilst getting it ready before the 'contact',
but the usual absorption by the substrate won't be nearly as effective
with old laminate in the way... The solvent based cement will do a
better job in your application. (Because you can flash off way more
solvent, to the point that the cement is dry to the touch, and still
have excellent 'stick'. The water based cement doesn't have as long an
open time.

On fresh PB or MDF, the water based products work great.

Wilsonart WA3000
(http://www.wilsonart.com/productlib/...es/3000_TD.pdf)
is a PVA adhesive which is not a contact cement but might be a better
choice if your heart is set on water based. You apply it to the
substrate only and you have a very narrow window to apply your
laminate..and then you roll it with all your might/weight. That stuff
is phenomenal. 5 gallon is the smallest qty you can buy so maybe
calling the distributor in your area might be the way to go. Hopefully
they will know who uses that adhesive in your area...and they might
sell you what you need.

Good luck!

HTH

r


Thanks Robotoy, Owen and Robert. I was choosing waterborne because of the
lack of odor. The lady I'm doing the job for has a very acute sense of
smell (I sometimes refer to her as the 'beagle', though she is far from a
dog. Her sense of smell is so acute that I make all my girlfriends wear
Old Spice aftershave. It ****es them off, but saves my parts.
Thanks again,
Hank


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Robatoy
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

In article 42,
"Henry St.Pierre" wrote:

. I was choosing waterborne because of the
lack of odor.


In-home use of a lot of solvent based contact cement can kill a budgie.
..
...
or so I'm told.
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Dave Balderstone
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

In article 42, Henry
St.Pierre wrote:

Greetings,
Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over
old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and
haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old
surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to
grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement
Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new
laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be
appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Hank


I asked about this in alt.home.repair and was pointed to this technical
brief
http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...ocuments.GnFPa
rSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf at
http://formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/documents.html


djb
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Enoch Root
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article 42, Henry
St.Pierre wrote:


Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new
laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be
appreciated.


I asked about this in alt.home.repair and was pointed to this technical
brief
http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...ocuments.GnFPa
rSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf at
http://formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/documents.html


or even:

URL:http://formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/documents.GnFParSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf

er
--
email not valid
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Dave Balderstone
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

In article , Enoch
Root wrote:

or even:


URL:http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...uments.GnFParS
ys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf



Yes... That was the first of the two URLs I posted. The second was the
page listing many docs including that one.
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Henry St.Pierre
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Dave Balderstone wrote in
news:090520061454417522%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca:

http://formica.com/publish


Thanks Dave,
I really appreciated the part of the artical that stated " DO not use
water based adhesive".
Regards,
Hank


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Henry St.Pierre
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Enoch Root wrote in
:

http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...ocuments.GnFPa
rSys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf


Enoch,
Like I said to Dave, Thanks.
Hank
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Enoch Root
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Enoch
Root wrote:


URL:http://formica.com/publish/site/na/u...uments.GnFParS
ys.0031.DownloadFile.File.tmp/4%20Resurf%20Tech.pdf


Yes... That was the first of the two URLs I posted. The second was the
page listing many docs including that one.


Heh, your newsreader broke that one, too. I was just fixing it.

er
--
email not valid
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Dave Balderstone
 
Posts: n/a
Default New over old (laminate)

In article , Enoch
Root wrote:

Heh, your newsreader broke that one, too. I was just fixing it.


Enclosing a URL in angle brackets thusly should preserve it across
line breaks in a well-behaved newsreader (like the one I use, and I
thought T-Bird too) but it all goes to crap as soon as it's quoted.

No worries.
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
remove laminate wood on stairs [email protected] Woodworking 1 February 13th 06 07:28 PM
Ceramic Tile vs Laminate on concrete floor? [email protected] Home Repair 4 February 9th 06 10:49 PM
Cutting laminate in-situ. Mark Trueman UK diy 5 February 2nd 06 07:30 AM
Laminate flooring Richard Beri Woodworking 7 August 10th 04 01:07 AM
Survey on laminate flooring options (15 seconds!) Tim UK diy 4 July 27th 04 12:53 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:51 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"