I have a dual 8 foot fluorescent light fixture in my basement (F96T12/C50,
single posts, 75W x 2). I
want to install some ceiling tiles, incl. T-supports, hangers, etc. So I
have to
pick the height and location. Currently the lights/fixture is the lowest
height level in the room. It is attached directly (perpendicular) to the
floor joists (2x10s), screwed directly up against them. Its positioning is
correct and it is not practical to gain more height than the bottom of these
bulbs.

The fixture is a sealed sheet metal rectangle. It is wired downward from an
octagon box above, which is screwed to one joist. I am not interested in
this part. There is no reflector shield on the top/side of it. The 2 bulbs
are just exposed. I am planning on putting a cover/shield/ flat piece of
plastic into the ceiling tile grid. I am wondering about the proper way to
do this. I am not sure whether to make a wooden surround frame (shroud), and
put my cover in
it, and ceiling tile grid built around it, or if I can make the plastic
cover part
of the ceiling tile grid T-support structure. But is it possible to build a
T-bar grid for the cover into the main grid structure (same level)? The
matter is what is safe/ to
code w/r/t materials/gaps/methods. I guess there is not much heat.


The entire room is 68" wide and the 5" wide fixture is 38" and 30" to the
sides. (small direction of room).

The entire room is 164" long and the 96" long fixture is 82" and 84" to the
ends. (large direction of room).

The room is a rectangle, except there is a J-shaped duct to build completely
around in one quadrant. I'll use the 2x4 foot ceiling tiles; the
rectangleness of the ceiling tile is installed perpendicular to the
rectangleness of the room (right?).

Anything helps, Thanks



Sorry, I got no help i n a.b.c; hey, theres wood involved



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"bent" wrote in message
...


The fixture is a sealed sheet metal rectangle. It is wired downward from
an
octagon box above, which is screwed to one joist. I am not interested in
this part. There is no reflector shield on the top/side of it. The 2 bulbs
are just exposed. I am planning on putting a cover/shield/ flat piece of
plastic into the ceiling tile grid. I am wondering about the proper way to
do this. I am not sure whether to make a wooden surround frame (shroud),
and
put my cover in
it, and ceiling tile grid built around it, or if I can make the plastic
cover part
of the ceiling tile grid T-support structure. But is it possible to build
a
T-bar grid for the cover into the main grid structure (same level)? The
matter is what is safe/ to
code w/r/t materials/gaps/methods. I guess there is not much heat.


Just get the plastic light diffusers and put them in the grid the same way
you put a tile in.

--

-Mike-

There are many styles of lamps that come with a finishing bezel. Check
with a lighting store.
Be aware that fluorescent lamp ballasts are notorious for going bad and
overheating. They are a distinct fire hazard and should be installed
according to the applicable electrical and fire codes.
Bugs

Bugs wrote:

Be aware that fluorescent lamp ballasts are notorious for going bad and
overheating. They are a distinct fire hazard and should be installed
according to the applicable electrical and fire codes.


Class "P" ballasts have been around for at least 35 years.

Class "P" among other things includes a thermal cut out which opens
turning off the ballast when it over heats.

When the ballasts cools down, the thermal cut out, allowing the lamp to
restrike.

This cycling indicates it's time for a new ballast as well as lamps,
especially if the ends of the lamps are blackened.

Lew

Bugs wrote:

Be aware that fluorescent lamp ballasts are notorious for going
bad and
overheating. They are a distinct fire hazard and should be installed
according to the applicable electrical and fire codes.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Class "P" ballasts have been around for at least 35 years.

Class "P" among other things includes a thermal cut out which opens
turning off the ballast when it over heats.

When the ballasts cools down, the thermal cut out, allowing the lamp to
restrike.

This cycling indicates it's time for a new ballast as well as lamps,
especially if the ends of the lamps are blackened.

The mind is the second thing to go. G

Yes, Class P ballasts are provided with a thermal cut out; however, it
is a one time device.

If the cut out opens, ballast shows open circuit on a meter, time for a
new ballast.

Recycling happens with HID lighting when end of lamp life approaches.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Lew

While doing the obligatory preliminary AutoCAD drawing it became obvoius
that I need to move this to the exact center, even though it is only 4" off
one way & 1" the other in the entire room. The long (4') of the 2' x 4'
tiles are supposed to run perpendicular to the long dim of the room, so I
need to cut just two tiles to cover the width of the room. I think I'll
just treat it as a structural thing, rather than an electrical problem. I
haven't looked at the main Tee product, etc. to know if I can hang the
cover's
|
-[]-
|
at the same level, using these main Tee & cross Tees AS the support for the
cover, all hung. Or if I need to build a shroud, whether above. level, or
below, to mount the wall Tee around.

I am planning to put Roxul Safe & Sound directly above it, and every other
sq. in, including some other insul rated pot lights and oct take-off boxes,
but as far as I know this Roxul product is safe as houses.

Do I need a vented cover? Like the shiny chrome-like square hole stuff, or
can it be solid. I was planning solid.

bent wrote:

Do I need a vented cover? Like the shiny chrome-like square hole stuff, or
can it be solid. I was planning solid.

Either way works. I like the parabolic reflectors as they don't cut
out so much light, focus the light down where you need it and reduce
glare on TV and computer screens. They also look better.

R

Class "P" among other things includes a thermal cut out which opens
turning off the ballast when it over heats.


When the ballasts cools down, the thermal cut out, allowing the lamp to

restrike.

The cutout works fine until it fuses and sets the house on fire.
Bugs, former fire chief

Bugs wrote:


The cutout works fine until it fuses and sets the house on fire.
Bugs, former fire chief


As indicated in my corrected post, the cut out is a one time device. It
fails to provide an open circuit.

Just curious, what time frame when these houses had a fire attributed to
a ballast failure.

Lew