Does anyone have any *first hand* knowledge of the Lynx line of hand
saws made in England by The Garlick Saw Co? I'm particularly
interested in how they compare to the old Disston saws, which in good
condition are becoming pretty expensive due to collectors gobbling
them up. I know that there are some who contend that !nothing! that
can compare to a Disston, but...

TIA

Cliff

Hi Cliff,

I've both Pax and Roberts & Lee panel saws, and have a few
g vintage saws, Disston, Bishop, Atkins, etc.

There are a few differences. Appearance wise, the fit and finish
doesn't approach vintage saws. The handles are less appealing, blades
are not well polished, etc.

The Roberts and Lee ones are taper gound, though not as much as
certain of the Disston line [most of the other makers didn't taper
grind as much either]. I don't think Pax are, but I would need to go
out to the shop to check.

Whether this is a real issue is a matter of debate. The above saws cut
well and represent a good value as far as saws are concerned. And
handles can always be replaced if they bug you.

Take care, Mike

On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:48:24 -0500, cdo wrote:

Does anyone have any *first hand* knowledge of the Lynx line of hand
saws made in England by The Garlick Saw Co? I'm particularly
interested in how they compare to the old Disston saws, which in good
condition are becoming pretty expensive due to collectors gobbling
them up. I know that there are some who contend that !nothing! that
can compare to a Disston, but...

TIA

Cliff
I believe there must be some good saws out there but I dont know cause
I cannot get myself to use anything except my Disstons.

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:48:24 -0500, cdo wrote:

Does anyone have any *first hand* knowledge of the Lynx line of hand
snip


Cliff
I believe there must be some good saws out there but I dont know cause
I cannot get myself to use anything except my Disstons.

I pretty much use Dissons and Independence saws. :-)
Both panel saws and backsaws.

"MikeW" wrote in message
m...
Hi Cliff,

I've both Pax and Roberts & Lee panel saws, and have a few
g vintage saws, Disston, Bishop, Atkins, etc.

There are a few differences. Appearance wise, the fit and finish
doesn't approach vintage saws. The handles are less appealing, blades
are not well polished, etc.

The Roberts and Lee ones are taper gound, though not as much as
certain of the Disston line [most of the other makers didn't taper
grind as much either]. I don't think Pax are, but I would need to go
out to the shop to check.

Whether this is a real issue is a matter of debate. The above saws cut
well and represent a good value as far as saws are concerned. And
handles can always be replaced if they bug you.

Take care, Mike

Lie-Nielson has panel saws coming out... I saw prototypes over a year ago.
When I spoke with Tom L-N about them a couple weeks ago the biggest issue
for getting them to market was the production of high quality handles. I'm
interested!

John

Hi John,

I too have played with one last year. Nice saw. Did Tom mention the
price he was going to do?

Thanks, Mike

"MikeW" wrote in message
...
Hi John,

I too have played with one last year. Nice saw. Did Tom mention the
price he was going to do?

Thanks, Mike


No mention of prices on the panel saws...

John

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 05:01:19 GMT, lid (MikeW) wrote:

Hi Cliff,

I've both Pax and Roberts & Lee panel saws, and have a few
g vintage saws, Disston, Bishop, Atkins, etc.

There are a few differences. Appearance wise, the fit and finish
doesn't approach vintage saws. The handles are less appealing, blades
are not well polished, etc.

The Roberts and Lee ones are taper gound, though not as much as
certain of the Disston line [most of the other makers didn't taper
grind as much either]. I don't think Pax are, but I would need to go
out to the shop to check.

Whether this is a real issue is a matter of debate. The above saws cut
well and represent a good value as far as saws are concerned. And
handles can always be replaced if they bug you.

Take care, Mike

Thanks Mike,

I have a 60's saw with the Disston name on it (well after the company
was sold) that I haven't used in many years, but it has no taper and
was always prone to binding. In fact it has a bit of a kink in it from
that problem. I have several Japanese saws that I use and like, but
there are times when I'd just as soon use a push saw. I've been
scanning eBay and the web for something of good quality, but finding
good pieces is difficult and expensive. I've seen some of the English
saws being sold through outlets here in the states and wondered at
their level of manufacture. I may just try one of them out and see how
it works out.

Thanks again,
Cliff

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:24:57 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


"MikeW" wrote in message
om...
Hi Cliff,

I've both Pax and Roberts & Lee panel saws, and have a few
g vintage saws, Disston, Bishop, Atkins, etc.

There are a few differences. Appearance wise, the fit and finish
doesn't approach vintage saws. The handles are less appealing, blades
are not well polished, etc.

The Roberts and Lee ones are taper gound, though not as much as
certain of the Disston line [most of the other makers didn't taper
grind as much either]. I don't think Pax are, but I would need to go
out to the shop to check.

Whether this is a real issue is a matter of debate. The above saws cut
well and represent a good value as far as saws are concerned. And
handles can always be replaced if they bug you.

Take care, Mike

Lie-Nielson has panel saws coming out... I saw prototypes over a year ago.
When I spoke with Tom L-N about them a couple weeks ago the biggest issue
for getting them to market was the production of high quality handles. I'm
interested!

John


That may bear watching - I have four of their planes that I really
enjoy using. The quality of their products is refreshing to see in
this time of mass produced garbage from the majority of manufacturers.

Cliff

Does anyone have any *first hand* knowledge of the Lynx line of hand
saws made in England by The Garlick Saw Co? I'm particularly
interested in how they compare to the old Disston saws, which in good
condition are becoming pretty expensive due to collectors gobbling
them up. I know that there are some who contend that !nothing! that
can compare to a Disston, but...

TIA

Cliff


Hey Cliff

There are current English saws that are stated to be taper ground, the Lynx brand by
Garlick but the price ...

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...ath/37_117_505

I'd rather pay half that for an old Disston. I suggest check out thrift shops, junk shops
and antique malls. My D-23's were around $5, the $8.50 for sharpening.

Taper ground means the blade is thicker at the heel (handle) and thinner at the toe.
My old Disston D-23's are taper ground, and they cut just ... very very WELL, very
smoothly. Sweetly!

You also have 'back saws' by Lie-Nielson and Adria but my complaint is the hardness
of the steel, being from 51 to 54 on the Rockwell "C" type hardness test, and who
knows what it is with the Lynx saws.

By comparison, old US saws are made of cast spring steel which is stated to be of
RC 60 as a standard, that means the sharpened edge will last a lot longer, with more
integrity in the cutting. Therefore, the better and cheaper way to go.

You really do get a far better deal buying the old US saws. The rest just seems to
be 'marketing'.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:

I'd rather pay half that for an old Disston.**I*suggest*check*out
thrift*shops,*junk*shops and antique malls.

Another good place to look is at estate sales. I've found a lot of good
old handsaws at estate sales.

BTW, I like Atkins better than Disston. Both cut about the same and
both will let you bend the blade all the way to the handle (indicating
good spring steel), but the Atkins "Silver Steel", whatever that is,
seems much less prone to rust. Every Atkins saw I've run across has
had little or no rust. Only about one in ten Disstons are in that kind
of shape.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

AAvKwrote:
...SNIP...
You also have 'back saws' by Lie-Nielson and Adria but my complaint
is the hardness of the steel, being from 51 to 54 on
the Rockwell "C" type hardness test, and who
knows what it is with the Lynx saws.

By comparison, old US saws are made of cast spring steel which is
stated to be of [b:8e6a78d9e9]RC 60 [/b:8e6a78d9e9]as a standard,
that means the sharpened edge will last a lot longer, with more
integrity in the cutting. Therefore, the better and cheaper way to
go.

You really do get a far better deal buying the old US saws. The
rest just seems to be 'marketing'.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
Sorry, Alex...

But the old saws, and in particular old Disstions, were at or below 54
RC...

Disstionian
Institute

60 RC is at or approaching mass-produced Japanese saws and the current
spat of hardened tooth western saws.

Too brittle for hard use in hard woods.

But I agree, old saws are a cost effective means to having western
saws. eBay can be a crap shoot, but I have gotten as many good ones
from there as I have estate sales and garage sales.

To be honest and up front here, I am a saw maker. And my question to
John was partially self-serving as I am a minor spec of competition
on Tom Lie-Nielsen's business. But then again, Tom knows I'll also
purchase one of his panel saws. Why? Because I love saws with a
passion and I have enjoyed every tool he has produced.

Take care, Mike

Sorry, Alex...

But the old saws, and in particular old Disstions, were at or below 54
RC...

Disstionian
Institute

60 RC is at or approaching mass-produced Japanese saws and the current
spat of hardened tooth western saws.

Too brittle for hard use in hard woods.

But I agree, old saws are a cost effective means to having western
saws. eBay can be a crap shoot, but I have gotten as many good ones
from there as I have estate sales and garage sales.

To be honest and up front here, I am a saw maker. And my question to
John was partially self-serving as I am a minor spec of competition
on Tom Lie-Nielsen's business. But then again, Tom knows I'll also
purchase one of his panel saws. Why? Because I love saws with a
passion and I have enjoyed every tool he has produced.

Take care, Mike


OK thanks for the clearity. I have read that old cast steel is a standard of RC 60
so they must've been yakking about chisels and such. What you said is what I
wanted to hear (or "read" lol). I really love hand saws, as well.

Got a business website?

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

MikeW wrote:
AAvKwrote:

..SNIP...

You also have 'back saws' by Lie-Nielson and Adria but my complaint
is the hardness of the steel, being from 51 to 54 on
the Rockwell "C" type hardness test, and who
knows what it is with the Lynx saws.

By comparison, old US saws are made of cast spring steel which is
stated to be of [b:8e6a78d9e9]RC 60 [/b:8e6a78d9e9]as a standard,
that means the sharpened edge will last a lot longer, with more
integrity in the cutting. Therefore, the better and cheaper way to
go.

You really do get a far better deal buying the old US saws. The
rest just seems to be 'marketing'.

Sorry, Alex...

But the old saws, and in particular old Disstions, were at or below 54
RC...

Disstionian
Institute

60 RC is at or approaching mass-produced Japanese saws and the current
spat of hardened tooth western saws.

Too brittle for hard use in hard woods.

But I agree, old saws are a cost effective means to having western
saws. eBay can be a crap shoot, but I have gotten as many good ones
from there as I have estate sales and garage sales.

To be honest and up front here, I am a saw maker. And my question to
John was partially self-serving as I am a minor spec of competition
on Tom Lie-Nielsen's business. But then again, Tom knows I'll also
purchase one of his panel saws. Why? Because I love saws with a
passion and I have enjoyed every tool he has produced.

I'd like to know where they are getting their spring steel and what
kind. The hardest pre-hardened, tempered steel I can find 1095 (blue)
steel, which is rockwell C48-51. The only way I can see to get
something better is to do the hardening and tempering.

RC50 is probably sufficient for a little dovetail, it's just nice to
quote exotic numbers.

I'm not a sawmaker, just a curious hobbiest. I'd like to see your saws.

er
--
email not valid

Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

fwiw, the steel at 48-51/52 is more than hard enough for any western
saw and is within the range which Disston used. Disston was their own
steel maker.

The balance is hard enough to take and retain an edge, and for
sharpening without the use of special files. I think Disston had a
good balance.

As for steel used today, we use steel rolled in the US, LN uses
Swedish steel and I am uncertain what Adria uses. I don't know
whether LN purchases through Sandvik or Uddeholm, two major suppliers
of Swedish steel. In today's steel market with the processes available
in which ever country, I am uncertain as to the efficacies of one over
the other.

We also make saws based upon reproductions. Currently that includes
reproducing the saws from the Benjamin Seaton Chest, made by John
Kenyon in the later 18th century. We have two of the large backsaws
made and have begun on the crosscut handsaw. These backsaws are
large--19" blade length, 4 1/2" at the toe of usable depth,
rising 5/8" by the heel. It's a fun project.

Take care, Mike

MikeW wrote:
Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

fwiw, the steel at 48-51/52 is more than hard enough for any western
saw and is within the range which Disston used. Disston was their own
steel maker.

The balance is hard enough to take and retain an edge, and for
sharpening without the use of special files. I think Disston had a
good balance.

As for steel used today, we use steel rolled in the US, LN uses
Swedish steel and I am uncertain what Adria uses. I don't know
whether LN purchases through Sandvik or Uddeholm, two major suppliers
of Swedish steel. In today's steel market with the processes available
in which ever country, I am uncertain as to the efficacies of one over
the other.

We also make saws based upon reproductions. Currently that includes
reproducing the saws from the Benjamin Seaton Chest, made by John
Kenyon in the later 18th century. We have two of the large backsaws
made and have begun on the crosscut handsaw. These backsaws are
large--19" blade length, 4 1/2" at the toe of usable depth,
rising 5/8" by the heel. It's a fun project.

Thanks.

I have seen examples of some of the features of the Seaton Chest in the
toolbox book, and I think it may have served as the model for that
mockup on the April LV mailer cover (maybe not, as it's just the handles
that are similar).

I haven't seen anything on the tools--especially not of the saws.

er
--
email not valid

"MikeW" wrote in message
. ..
Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

The URL wasn't listed... not sure where the problem is, but I'd like to take
a look.

John

John Grossbohlinwrote:
"MikeW" wrote in message
. ..
Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

The URL wasn't listed... not sure where the problem is, but I'd like
to take
a look.

John[/quote:7a2170b325]
Hi John,

Sorry, I forget some news readers won't translate the code into a
link. The url is:
http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html

Thank you, Mike

"MikeW" wrote in message
m...
John Grossbohlinwrote:
"MikeW" wrote in message
. ..
Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

The URL wasn't listed... not sure where the problem is, but I'd like
to take
a look.

John[/quote:7a2170b325]
Hi John,

Sorry, I forget some news readers won't translate the code into a
link. The url is:
http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html

Thank you, Mike

Cool! Outside of L-N and Pax I hadn't really noticed any other high-end hand
saws in current commercial production--guess I hadn't been looking too
carefully! ;~)

A couple associates of mine, Jon Laubach and George Wilson, were making 18th
century pattern saws behind the scenes at Colonial Williamsburg. Those saw,
however, couldn't be purchased as they were for use in the restored area. I
was always amazed to see the wonderful things they were working on. All the
saws were beautiful and the panel saws played music nicely. ;~) I suspect
that they are both retired now... hugh talents... I consider my life better
for knowing them.

I bookmarked the Wenzloff site for future reference and passed the link on
to some associates.

John

MikeW wrote:

Sorry, I forget some news readers won't translate the code into a
link. The url is:
http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html

[after reading the description for the large (rip) tenon saws]

Heh, I was thinking it would be useful to start the first tooth at 15deg
and progress to 0deg through the first inch or so.

I thought I was being clever, but I guess it's an old idea?

er
--
email not valid

Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

fwiw, the steel at 48-51/52 is more than hard enough for any western
saw and is within the range which Disston used. Disston was their own
steel maker.

[snip]


Hey Mike, thanks for the reply.

I saw the saw site and I had never seen it before. I must say "what beautiful work". I
can't afford to buy one but would love to. As far as the hardness of the steel, what you
say sounds good, but I know one seller on the bay who lives in Florida and is a plane
blade maker. He always has new blades for Stanley #48 T&Gs on the bay.

He can send anyone his stock list (which is quite big!) and has great prices. But he takes
his blades out to be hardened by a pro company that uses atmosphere controlled ovens,
I think they create a vacuum inside while heating. But after that, his prices are still quite
acceptable (that means it might cheap enough for you).

I think you have really good prices too. Just an idea, the seller is jimreed2160.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Heh, I was thinking it would be useful to start the first tooth at
15deg and progress to 0deg through the first inch or so.

I thought I was being clever, but I guess it's an old idea?
Hi Enoch,

It's not too new. When I was young and my grandfather was teaching me
how to file saws, he prefered this method to progressive ppi--where
there are more teeth per inch at the toe progressing to full ppi by
1/3 or so of the way towards the heel. That probably stemed from
using a retoother to punch new teeth.

A couple associates of mine, Jon Laubach and George Wilson, were
making 18th century pattern saws behind the scenes at Colonial
Williamsburg. Those saw, however, couldn't be purchased as they were
for use in the restored area. I was always amazed to see the
wonderful things they were working on. All the saws were beautiful
and the panel saws played music nicely. ;~) I suspect that they are
both retired now... hugh talents... I consider my life better for
knowing them.
Ah, how I wish I was able to live for a while on the right coast. The
history available there in the form of such places and people!

Well, one of these days my wife and I will make the trip. They'll
probably have to throw me out--I'll want to stay for a bit.

Thank you for the reference.

Take care, Mike

MikeW wrote:
Heh, I was thinking it would be useful to start the first tooth at

15deg and progress to 0deg through the first inch or so.

I thought I was being clever, but I guess it's an old idea?

Hi Enoch,

It's not too new. When I was young and my grandfather was teaching me
how to file saws, he prefered this method to progressive ppi--where
there are more teeth per inch at the toe progressing to full ppi by
1/3 or so of the way towards the heel. That probably stemed from
using a retoother to punch new teeth.

That's nice you were taught by your grandfather. You are the first to
bring it up that I was aware of. A quick google search shows a nice
thread (with you participating) at woodcentral about this.

A couple associates of mine, Jon Laubach and George Wilson, were

making 18th century pattern saws behind the scenes at Colonial
Williamsburg. Those saw, however, couldn't be purchased as they were
for use in the restored area. I was always amazed to see the
wonderful things they were working on. All the saws were beautiful
and the panel saws played music nicely. ;~) I suspect that they are
both retired now... hugh talents... I consider my life better for
knowing them.
Ah, how I wish I was able to live for a while on the right coast. The
history available there in the form of such places and people!

Libraries are an option.

I'm going to try to find a video taken of one of the last planemaker's
in England showing how to smooth the bed for a plane blade... with a slick.

er
--
email not valid

I forgot to mention, your saws look gorgeous.

er
--
email not valid

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 21:11:02 -0700, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

AAvK wrote:

I'd rather pay half that for an old Disston.**I*suggest*check*out
thrift*shops,*junk*shops and antique malls.

Another good place to look is at estate sales. I've found a lot of good
old handsaws at estate sales.

BTW, I like Atkins better than Disston. Both cut about the same and
both will let you bend the blade all the way to the handle (indicating
good spring steel), but the Atkins "Silver Steel", whatever that is,
seems much less prone to rust. Every Atkins saw I've run across has
had little or no rust. Only about one in ten Disstons are in that kind
of shape.

That's interesting... More nickle in the mix than some others
perhaps?

I'll have to keep an eye out for them.

Cliff

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 19:49:04 -0700, "AAvK"
wrote:


Does anyone have any *first hand* knowledge of the Lynx line of hand
saws made in England by The Garlick Saw Co? I'm particularly
interested in how they compare to the old Disston saws, which in good
condition are becoming pretty expensive due to collectors gobbling
them up. I know that there are some who contend that !nothing! that
can compare to a Disston, but...

TIA

Cliff


Hey Cliff

There are current English saws that are stated to be taper ground, the Lynx brand by
Garlick but the price ...

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...ath/37_117_505

I'd rather pay half that for an old Disston. I suggest check out thrift shops, junk shops
and antique malls. My D-23's were around $5, the $8.50 for sharpening.

Taper ground means the blade is thicker at the heel (handle) and thinner at the toe.
My old Disston D-23's are taper ground, and they cut just ... very very WELL, very
smoothly. Sweetly!

You also have 'back saws' by Lie-Nielson and Adria but my complaint is the hardness
of the steel, being from 51 to 54 on the Rockwell "C" type hardness test, and who
knows what it is with the Lynx saws.

By comparison, old US saws are made of cast spring steel which is stated to be of
RC 60 as a standard, that means the sharpened edge will last a lot longer, with more
integrity in the cutting. Therefore, the better and cheaper way to go.

You really do get a far better deal buying the old US saws. The rest just seems to
be 'marketing'.


I'm evidently a bit confused - I thought the taper was from the
toothed edge to the back edge, with a constant thickness heel to toe.
If it's narrower at the toe, what prevents binding as you progress
through the cutting stroke? That's illogical...

Cliff

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 23:01:09 GMT, lid (MikeW) wrote:

John Grossbohlinwrote:
"MikeW" wrote in message
. ..
Hi Alex and Enoch,

Web site is he
Saws price
list.

The URL wasn't listed... not sure where the problem is, but I'd like
to take
a look.

John[/quote:7a2170b325]
Hi John,

Sorry, I forget some news readers won't translate the code into a
link. The url is:
http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html

Thank you, Mike


Wow, nice looking stuff! I'm going to have to spend a bit more time
looking around there...

Cliff

cdo wrote:
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 19:49:04 -0700, "AAvK"
wrote:


Does anyone have any *first hand* knowledge of the Lynx line of hand
saws made in England by The Garlick Saw Co? I'm particularly
interested in how they compare to the old Disston saws, which in good
condition are becoming pretty expensive due to collectors gobbling
them up. I know that there are some who contend that !nothing! that
can compare to a Disston, but...

TIA

Cliff


Hey Cliff

There are current English saws that are stated to be taper ground, the Lynx brand by
Garlick but the price ...

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...ath/37_117_505

I'd rather pay half that for an old Disston. I suggest check out thrift shops, junk shops
and antique malls. My D-23's were around $5, the $8.50 for sharpening.

Taper ground means the blade is thicker at the heel (handle) and thinner at the toe.
My old Disston D-23's are taper ground, and they cut just ... very very WELL, very
smoothly. Sweetly!

You also have 'back saws' by Lie-Nielson and Adria but my complaint is the hardness
of the steel, being from 51 to 54 on the Rockwell "C" type hardness test, and who
knows what it is with the Lynx saws.

By comparison, old US saws are made of cast spring steel which is stated to be of
RC 60 as a standard, that means the sharpened edge will last a lot longer, with more
integrity in the cutting. Therefore, the better and cheaper way to go.

You really do get a far better deal buying the old US saws. The rest just seems to
be 'marketing'.



I'm evidently a bit confused - I thought the taper was from the
toothed edge to the back edge, with a constant thickness heel to toe.
If it's narrower at the toe, what prevents binding as you progress
through the cutting stroke? That's illogical...

They are, from what I've seen, double-tapered; flaring toe to heel and
top to bottom. Less set is required for the teeth so you get a smoother
cut, but a blade sharpened many times isn't going to have the same taper...

er
--
email not valid

cdowrote:
...I'm evidently a bit confused - I thought the taper was from the
toothed edge to the back edge, with a constant thickness heel to
toe.

If it's narrower at the toe, what prevents binding as you progress
through the cutting stroke? That's illogical...

Cliff
As made--at least as regards Disston and Atkins--the toothline is a
fairly consistent from heel to toe. But they are double-tapered.

Looking at the toe end of the saw straight on, it is narrower at the
top and tapers to the toothline.

Looking straight down from the top of the saw, one would see it taper
from the back of the saw to the toe.

Only the Atkins 400 series was as tapered, with the others less so.
Which is why they didn't cost as much as the top saws--Disston also
charged significantly more for their top saws.

Taper grinding is a whole can of worms in some tool circles. Saws from
earlier periods were not tapered and even once tapering began, it was
greater on cross cut saws than rip.

Take care, Mike

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 16:01:18 GMT, lid (MikeW) wrote:

cdowrote:
..I'm evidently a bit confused - I thought the taper was from the
toothed edge to the back edge, with a constant thickness heel to
toe.

If it's narrower at the toe, what prevents binding as you progress
through the cutting stroke? That's illogical...

Cliff
As made--at least as regards Disston and Atkins--the toothline is a
fairly consistent from heel to toe. But they are double-tapered.

Looking at the toe end of the saw straight on, it is narrower at the
top and tapers to the toothline.

Looking straight down from the top of the saw, one would see it taper
from the back of the saw to the toe.

Only the Atkins 400 series was as tapered, with the others less so.
Which is why they didn't cost as much as the top saws--Disston also
charged significantly more for their top saws.

Taper grinding is a whole can of worms in some tool circles. Saws from
earlier periods were not tapered and even once tapering began, it was
greater on cross cut saws than rip.

Take care, Mike

Thanks for the extra information Mike; I guess I just underestimated
the effectiveness of the set in keeping the blade from binding as it
progresses through the kerf.

It must have taken an interesting setup to grind those blades in two
axes. Pretty impressive manufacturing coming out of the 1800's.

regards,
Cliff

"MikeW" wrote in message
...

A couple associates of mine, Jon Laubach and George Wilson, were
making 18th century pattern saws behind the scenes at Colonial
Williamsburg. Those saw, however, couldn't be purchased as they were
for use in the restored area. I was always amazed to see the
wonderful things they were working on. All the saws were beautiful
and the panel saws played music nicely. ;~) I suspect that they are
both retired now... hugh talents... I consider my life better for
knowing them.

Ah, how I wish I was able to live for a while on the right coast. The
history available there in the form of such places and people!

Well, one of these days my wife and I will make the trip. They'll
probably have to throw me out--I'll want to stay for a bit.

There are certainly a lot of interesting places on the right coast... For
example, my woodworkers club uses one of the buildings where the movie
Tootsie (Dustin Hoffman, 1982) was filmed. That farm dates to the 1670s as I
recall... reeks of history! ;~) My hometown dates from 1660s... stone houses
from the period still exist (though they had to be rebuilt after the British
burned the place!).

John

Deleted--by reason of insanity or a poorly working keyboard: I cannot
spell at times...

John Grossbohlinwrote:
There are certainly a lot of interesting places on the right coast...
For example, my woodworkers club uses one of the buildings where the
movie Tootsie (Dustin Hoffman, 1982) was filmed. That farm dates to
the 1670s as I recall... reeks of history! ;~) My hometown dates from
1660s... stone houses from the period still exist (though they had to
be rebuilt after the British burned the place!).

John
Too cool John!

We have a lot of history and places to go and see on the left
coast--but it is young in comparison and certainly not seminal in the
foundation of our country.

The town we live in, Forest Grove in Oregon, is an old community by
this side of the country's standards. The house we live in was built
by relatives in 1897, and his father's house was built in the 1880s.
A house down the street was from the 1840s. That's about it around
here. Still cool, but we have always wanted to make it to New
England.

Well, back to cutting out saw blanks...take care, Mike

AAvK wrote:

...

I think you have really good prices too. Just an idea, the seller is jimreed2160.


Like the mohel said, thanks for the tip!

But, do you have a domain name to associate with that user name?

--

FF

wrote:
AAvK wrote:

...

I think you have really good prices too. Just an idea, the seller is jimreed2160.



Like the mohel said, thanks for the tip!

But, do you have a domain name to associate with that user name?

Best guess: http://www.ebay.com/



er
--
email not valid

Jim's email address is

jimreed2160 AT yahoo.com

remove the spaces.

The first portion is his eBay user id.

Take care, Mike

But, do you have a domain name to associate with that user name?

Best guess: http://www.ebay.com/



er
--
email not valid


eBay is it, just contact the seller.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

MikeW wrote:

We have a lot of history and places to go and see on the left
coast--but it is young in comparison and certainly not seminal in the
foundation of our country.

Ever since I saw buildings over 1000 years old in Europe, I can't get
excited about any of our "old" buildings.

I suspect the Egyptians feel the same way about Europe :-).

--
It's turtles, all the way down

Larry Blanchard wrote:
MikeW wrote:


We have a lot of history and places to go and see on the left
coast--but it is young in comparison and certainly not seminal in the
foundation of our country.


Ever since I saw buildings over 1000 years old in Europe, I can't get
excited about any of our "old" buildings.

I lived in a small city in Germany for awhile in which construction on
the cathedral there began in the 12th c. Took more than a hundred
years, IIRC, to finish it.

I saw aerial views of the bombed city during WWII, and although much
around it was flattened, it somehow managed to escape more than shrapnel
scars.

Hah, see for yourself:

URL:http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freiburger_M%C3%BCnster

Here's a good picture of it:

URL:http://www.zum.de/Faecher/G/BW/Landeskunde/rhein/freiburg/fr_mstr1.htm

There's a little note on the physics of the tower near the bottom,
asserting that the point below the tip of the tower is just just shy of
where something would fall if dropped from the tip, and that the
difference is due to the rotation of the earth. A non-sequitur beneath
the tower in the cathedral.

The cathedral is made of red sandstone, not wood, but I believe the
sandstone was cut with saws... hand saws.

Also, there is an alter carved of wood (and painted) by Hans Holbein the
Younger (the Henry VIII painter).

er
--
email not valid

Larry Blanchard wrote:

Ever since I saw buildings over 1000 years old in Europe, I can't get
excited about any of our "old" buildings.

I suspect the Egyptians feel the same way about Europe :-).

Speaking of Egypt...some friends told me about a cafe they went to in
Alexandria that had been open 24/7 for well over two thousand years.
Blew my mind.

Chris